psilocybin
Rising Star
Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
What exactly went into the dropper bottle? Vinegar pulls from limonene, or something else?I don't think so, I followed everything on this guide: Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek - DMT-Nexus Wiki
Vinegar pulls yea, after i boiled off most of the water to concentrate it, it might be worth noting that I'm doing 2 vinegar pulls for each solvent pull.What exactly went into the dropper bottle? Vinegar pulls from limonene, or something else?
In which case, the precipitate is likely random plant impurities. What grade of vinegar was used?Vinegar pulls yea, after i boiled off most of the water to concentrate it, it might be worth noting that I'm doing 2 vinegar pulls for each solvent pull.
I've heard somewhere that some root bark sellers will remove fibers from the bark then sell the "shredded" stuff as mostly just fiber, giving it a lower yield. This is just speculation though.Got a question on upping yields
I recently observed an extraction of 100g shredded acacia acuminata root bark
5 vinegar acid cooks "PH around 3" were reduced to 600ml then added to a 1L bottle
30G salt was dissolved in 100ml water and added
60G Na0H was dissolved in 200ml water and added to a PH >12
bottle was put into a slow cooker half full of water on low to keep it all warm
5x 60ml shellite pulls done over an hour each flipping or rolling every 15 minutes but never shaken
2x 50ml xylene pulls were then done cold out of the water bath but otherwise the same method.
Shellite pulls were evaporated over a fan until about half was gone, and it looked milky. Then, it was put into the freezer. 36 hours later, it was removed & there were 360mg of pure white crystals after evaporation.
Xylene pulls were put into a food dehydrator for a few hours @70c until a goldish oil remained that smelt of new shoes, this was removed and agitated while cooling with the tip of a razor, and the oil soon "15 minutes or so" transitioned from a liquid to an orangish powder "dmt+nmt"? weighing 170mg
total yield was 0.53% not bad for the first time but less than expected.
Current thoughts are to do the same thing but use a pressure cooker @12psi for the 5 acid cooks & blend the bark as much as possible "Last time 0 processing was involved"
any other tips would be greatly appreciated.
Yea, it really shouldn't look like just coconut fibers, you should getting whole bark chips or cut up pieces of bark. The fibers alone can't really be "powdered" easily like the bark itself can, which makes it even more difficult. I recommend finding a more honest seller if you can, they are still out there, or buy powder from them if you can't. I hope you'll be able to still get some yield out of it.That does kinda check out or more appeals to my self-confirmation bias that it's not me lol...
2'nd extraction is underway with 3 changes decided on
1. 3 Freeze/thaw cycles before starting
2. Powder/grind as much as possible
3. Pressure cooks instead of normal boils
While attempting to powder the bark it was noticed that very little was happening, Blender, coffee grinder then immersion blender was tried without much success at all.
It just seemed like for lack of a better word "coconut husk".
Onto the 5th cook now so I'll report back if anything changes.
I use swan lighter fluid as it only lists naptha in the ingredients, probably very similar but check your tin to see if it has any other additives in the clipper stuff.Any folk in the UK, what do you all use for your 'Naptha'?
I have used Clipper lighter fluid but curious to hear what others are using.
x
That does kinda check out or more appeals to my self-confirmation bias that it's not me lol...
2'nd extraction is underway with 3 changes decided on
1. 3 Freeze/thaw cycles before starting
2. Powder/grind as much as possible
3. Pressure cooks instead of normal boils
While attempting to powder the bark it was noticed that very little was happening, Blender, coffee grinder then immersion blender was tried without much success at all.
It just seemed like for lack of a better word "coconut husk".
Onto the 5th cook now so I'll report back if anything changes.
Polymerisation may have occurred.So.. I got caught up in some life-stuff and had a bucket of lye/mimosa solution which I was intending to do lazyman tek on... may be a silly question but is it going to be alright lol? I'm considering straining out the bark mush and looking into alternative methods as I would like to maximise my yield... any tips welcome![]()
We do know that the hydrochloride is ridiculously hygroscopic, making it hard to determine a solubility value. The acetate also tends towards being a hygroscopic goo, again complicating the process. It's the salts where well-defined crystals are relatively easily obtained for which the data already exists.Hey, has any data been compiled anywhere besides the wiki, on the different solvent solubilities of DMT salts? like, i cant find ANYTHING on acetate or hydrochloride.
Im currently trying to compile some info but at best all ive found is a few obscure salts like oxalate or succinate, and only their MP and vague water solubility, and even then its from a somewhat unreliable looking google patent.
I could have sworn at one point i was able to refference some info on here like a table or something, like im pretty sure its critical for defatting, or removing the gramine from phalaris.
Yeah, it can be had with some effort, though it still begs the question of what it, and others are specifically soluble or not soluble in.We do know that the hydrochloride is ridiculously hygroscopic, making it hard to determine a solubility value. The acetate also tends towards being a hygroscopic goo, again complicating the process. It's the salts where well-defined crystals are relatively easily obtained for which the data already exists.
Succinate isn't that obscure, btw. It's very similar to fumarate, having but two extra hydrogen atoms.
last night i discovered that, some of the resins/oils that cause/prevent crystalization but are totally aligned with DMT on how it can pass through a defat, and, dissolve in hexane, these bad bois are not soluble in anhydrous isopropyl alcohol.I've got some clear / white dmt goo I'm trying to crystallize. I don't have a whole lot of experience extracting and have a nasty habit of leaving things to sit for extended periods of time so I keep getting goo. the original source was some hawaiian ACRB. I've gotten perfectly clear crystals from this material on my first extraction and the rest has all been clear or yellow goo. I'm asking for help here because I'm not having much luck figuring it out on my own. I vaguely recall reading that I can take the goo, resoak in fresh nps and wash with clean water, pull nps, and refreeze? I'm trying not to lose any here.
sometimes as a fine powder its not needed to freeze/thaw or pressure cook, or just simmer for ages, but as someone who has been there, its not a fun time re-extracting tiny amounts to add together since you still have to actually handle your tiny amounts up to the point you combine them. Its not fun either doubting everything when the yield is poor.Hey guys, I'm entirely new to this and I was wondering if some acacia confusa powder would work, I'm not sure how a powder to differ from shredded bark in terms of extraction.