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official extraction help thread

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Oh ok... strange about the warming, I thought i had read somewhere to absolutely do it but maybe the reaction with NaOH is enough.. In any case if I end up warming it i'll go below 50 degrees and outside just to make sure
Overall, it's a matter of preference - solubility of DMT in naphtha does increase with naphtha, but so does the coloration of the final product - although not necessarily in a consistent way. Higher temperatures also increase the rate of evaporative losses of solvent, which cancels out the usefulness of heating at some point.

What I take away from this is that swift pulls at a higher temperature will generally be OK, as would doing the first pulls at ambient temperature, followed by a final warm pull. Contact time with the base solution also impacts the colour of the subsequent product. It's a matter of being aware of all these factors.
 
Unfortunately it seems the essence C of the brand "onyx" i got is no good. There's a very thin layer of "opaqueness" at the bottom. :'(
I guess my only next option would be the lighter fluid. Are there brands out there we KNOW are good for sure ? I can order zippo lighter fluid from amazon in bulk so that would be the easiest for me.

Too bad i didn't know about the limonene tek before all that i would have probably gone down that road instead but yeah here we are.
 
Unfortunately it seems the essence C of the brand "onyx" i got is no good. There's a very thin layer of "opaqueness" at the bottom. :'(
I guess my only next option would be the lighter fluid. Are there brands out there we KNOW are good for sure ? I can order zippo lighter fluid from amazon in bulk so that would be the easiest for me.

Too bad i didn't know about the limonene tek before all that i would have probably gone down that road instead but yeah here we are.
This might be moisture if you mean turbidity in the solvent itself. Or did you mean in the evaporation test? The latter would indeed be a bit of a bad sign, and while I could suggest distilling your solvent this would involve special equipment and knowledge. Something I'd try is washing the solvent with acid, then with base, followed by drying it with an anhydrous salt like magnesium sulfate or sodium carbonate, then repeating the evaporation test.

Another solvent to look into would be ethyl acetate, although in Germany butyl acetate seems to be more readily available. Both of these solvents would work in something similar to the limonene 'drytek' - look up "HIELO":
 
This might be moisture if you mean turbidity in the solvent itself. Or did you mean in the evaporation test? The latter would indeed be a bit of a bad sign, and while I could suggest distilling your solvent this would involve special equipment and knowledge. Something I'd try is washing the solvent with acid, then with base, followed by drying it with an anhydrous salt like magnesium sulfate or sodium carbonate, then repeating the evaporation test.

Another solvent to look into would be ethyl acetate, although in Germany butyl acetate seems to be more readily available. Both of these solvents would work in something similar to the limonene 'drytek' - look up "HIELO":
Hi again ! So i went ahead and tried with some zippo lighter fluid. evaporates clean over here. However i followed the video of a guy (DMTV on youtube) saying to use a one gallon jar to mix 12 cups of water to 1 cup of Hydroxide, 3 cups of mimosa, 3 cups of naphta. Did everything as he did except... i still had a 1/5 of my gallon jar that was empty... And he says explicitly that there needs to be NO AIR. I didn't know what to do so... i flipped the jar 50 times as described anyway, anxious that waiting to find an answer would ruin the thing. I didn't see much of what was happening inside the jar but the "naphta" didn't seem to go as slowly through the plant matter like in his video. Now i'm waiting for an hour before collecting the dmt enriched naphta but i do see a bunch of little bubbles like he describes in his video that would be a "problem". What kind of problem am I gonna face ? Is there anything i can do right now ? did i mess it up ?
Can someone check my european measures for a sanity check???
-1 gallon jar (3785ml)
-3cups (710ml) of naphta and mimosa
-1 cup (235ml) NaOH

How come his jar is full and mine isn't...? I'm confused.
 
Hi again ! So i went ahead and tried with some zippo lighter fluid. evaporates clean over here. However i followed the video of a guy (DMTV on youtube) saying to use a one gallon jar to mix 12 cups of water to 1 cup of Hydroxide, 3 cups of mimosa, 3 cups of naphta. Did everything as he did except... i still had a 1/5 of my gallon jar that was empty... And he says explicitly that there needs to be NO AIR. I didn't know what to do so... i flipped the jar 50 times as described anyway, anxious that waiting to find an answer would ruin the thing. I didn't see much of what was happening inside the jar but the "naphta" didn't seem to go as slowly through the plant matter like in his video. Now i'm waiting for an hour before collecting the dmt enriched naphta but i do see a bunch of little bubbles like he describes in his video that would be a "problem". What kind of problem am I gonna face ? Is there anything i can do right now ? did i mess it up ?
Can someone check my european measures for a sanity check???
-1 gallon jar (3785ml)
-3cups (710ml) of naphta and mimosa
-1 cup (235ml) NaOH

How come his jar is full and mine isn't...? I'm confused.
"Cup" is a rubbish unit of measurement, to put it bluntly, but you can top up the jar with additional water until it's completely full - it's a bit late now to be doing the arithmetic to see how big a 'cup' should be such that the gallon jar would actually be full using the numbers of cups given, but you ought to consider doing this as an exercise anyhow. You would definitely gain something by thinking a bit more about what you're doing before you do it.

We do also have to wonder why you proceeded even though you thought things didn't look right, but I think what can be taken away from all of this is that videos on youtube may not always be of much use for learning about the fundamental principles of extraction science.

An important starting point for you would be to check for errors in the arithmetic of the method you've been following. I'm tempted to dub it the "shake and half-baked" :ROFLMAO:
Did you use cups or millilitres when measuring out your 'ingredients'? Your measuring cup may be inaccurate.

One more thing to take into account is that the mimosa may absorb water (and expel air) such that the combined volume of the two is less than their sum. A similar thing happens when sodium hydroxide dissolves in water. Even if there were no air gaps between the prills, the summed volume of the NaOH and water would be greater than the resulting volume of solution.

And the name of your (other) problem is emulsion

Despair not - you will still get the goods if you apply a little patience and brain power, but in the future it's best to avoid messing it up in the first place (obviously :LOL: )
 
"Cup" is a rubbish unit of measurement, to put it bluntly, but you can top up the jar with additional water until it's completely full - it's a bit late now to be doing the arithmetic to see how big a 'cup' should be such that the gallon jar would actually be full using the numbers of cups given, but you ought to consider doing this as an exercise anyhow. You would definitely gain something by thinking a bit more about what you're doing before you do it.

We do also have to wonder why you proceeded even though you thought things didn't look right, but I think what can be taken away from all of this is that videos on youtube may not always be of much use for learning about the fundamental principles of extraction science.

An important starting point for you would be to check for errors in the arithmetic of the method you've been following. I'm tempted to dub it the "shake and half-baked" :ROFLMAO:
Did you use cups or millilitres when measuring out your 'ingredients'? Your measuring cup may be inaccurate.

One more thing to take into account is that the mimosa may absorb water (and expel air) such that the combined volume of the two is less than their sum. A similar thing happens when sodium hydroxide dissolves in water. Even if there were no air gaps between the prills, the summed volume of the NaOH and water would be greater than the resulting volume of solution.

And the name of your (other) problem is emulsion

Despair not - you will still get the goods if you apply a little patience and brain power, but in the future it's best to avoid messing it up in the first place (obviously :LOL: )
😅 yeah right.. I'm really not much of a chemist, this is all very new to me, so yeah, mistakes are gonna be made !
What surprises me is i did in fact double and triple checked with measurements, converting to ml and all.. So either his video is wrong, or we don't have the same conversion rate of a cup :poop:

Anyways thanks for the advices.. I actually didn't have any problems in the end, the bubbles disappeared after a few hours and i could finish the extraction. Super happy 🥳 Thank you again for your help. I topped up the jar for the second pull with more soup made in a different container. Should work even better.

However i'm a tad concerned with the purity of the compound. The last bits i scrapped out were a bit yellow and sticky, i got it in a separate container for now. Is it normal ?(The smell is exactly what you would expect tho ...) I've heard of different washing methods to further purify the salts, do you think it's necessary ? If so is there a recommended tek for absolute lazy beginners like myself ?
 

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😅 yeah right.. I'm really not much of a chemist, this is all very new to me, so yeah, mistakes are gonna be made !
What surprises me is i did in fact double and triple checked with measurements, converting to ml and all.. So either his video is wrong, or we don't have the same conversion rate of a cup :poop:

Anyways thanks for the advices.. I actually didn't have any problems in the end, the bubbles disappeared after a few hours and i could finish the extraction. Super happy 🥳 Thank you again for your help. I topped up the jar for the second pull with more soup made in a different container. Should work even better.

However i'm a tad concerned with the purity of the compound. The last bits i scrapped out were a bit yellow and sticky, i got it in a separate container for now. Is it normal ?(The smell is exactly what you would expect tho ...) I've heard of different washing methods to further purify the salts, do you think it's necessary ? If so is there a recommended tek for absolute lazy beginners like myself ?
DMT can become yellow and oily sometimes. This is partly due to it having several different crystallisation forms (polymorphs), and also through weak intermolecular bonds forming through oxidative electron transfer. This polymerisation (or oligomerisation) shifts the EM absorption into the visible range, giving rise to a coloured product.

The coloured product generally vaporises well enough, and should be fine to consume orally too. If used for preparing e-juice it has been observed to lead to clogging of the coils, however.

If you're particularly concerned about obtaining white crystals, a mini A/B should help.
 
I followed Cybs Hybrid ATB tek with 10G of MHRB and got this yellowish powder.
After a day of storing it in a glass container, it "melted" back to the glass.
Is this normal? Should I just scrape it back to a powder form?

Also, while separating the Naptha I got some of the dark liquid into my product. How can I remove it to get white crystals?


Thanks!
 

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I followed Cybs Hybrid ATB tek with 10G of MHRB and got this yellowish powder.
After a day of storing it in a glass container, it "melted" back to the glass.
Is this normal? Should I just scrape it back to a powder form?

Also, while separating the Naptha I got some of the dark liquid into my product. How can I remove it to get white crystals?


Thanks!
Don't pipette naphtha direct from the base soup straight into the precipitation dish. Use a jug, with a dash of water at the bottom, to catch any errant droplets.

Now that you have got the contamination in your product you'll need to use a clean-up process like rerystallisation or a mini A/B to sort it out.

The melting phenomenon might be due to humidity or residual naphtha, or maybe there's a bit of NMT content in your bark.
 
Don't pipette naphtha direct from the base soup straight into the precipitation dish. Use a jug, with a dash of water at the bottom, to catch any errant droplets.

Now that you have got the contamination in your product you'll need to use a clean-up process like rerystallisation or a mini A/B to sort it out.

The melting phenomenon might be due to humidity or residual naphtha, or maybe there's a bit of NMT content in your bark.
So from the soup to a glass of water and then to a glass dish?
That wasn't written in the tek.

Can I just put the powder in Naptha, and then separate the layers again?
 
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So from the soup to a glass of water and then to a glass dish?
That wasn't written in the tek.

Can I just put the powder in Naptha, and then separate the layers again?
There are all sorts of nuances not necessarily incuded in any given TEK. Documenting this kind of stuff is a mutual responsibility, so perhaps it would be worthwhile to organise a Nexus wiki updating drive.

Putting the powder in naphtha is pretty much exactly what recrystallisation entails. Better is to gradually add warm naphtha (yes, this time warm is better!) until all the crystals redissolve, then decant away from the insoluble material. Be wary of the powdery nature of the residue and think about how you may prevent it from getting carried over with the product.

The new naphtha solution will crystallise in the same way as the first time round.
 
There are all sorts of nuances not necessarily incuded in any given TEK. Documenting this kind of stuff is a mutual responsibility, so perhaps it would be worthwhile to organise a Nexus wiki updating drive.

Putting the powder in naphtha is pretty much exactly what recrystallisation entails. Better is to gradually add warm naphtha (yes, this time warm is better!) until all the crystals redissolve, then decant away from the insoluble material. Be wary of the powdery nature of the residue and think about how you may prevent it from getting carried over with the product.

The new naphtha solution will crystallise in the same way as the first time round.
Thank you for your help.
I'll desolve it Naphtha again.

This is my first extraction, so I went with 10g of MHRB just to practice.

With your help, and some more reading, I think I'll take a shot on a larger amount
 
Thank you for your help.
I'll desolve it Naphtha again.

This is my first extraction, so I went with 10g of MHRB just to practice.

With your help, and some more reading, I think I'll take a shot on a larger amount
Ooooh - that's a tiny amount! No wonder you found it a bit fiddly :LOL:
You've done quite well considering that.

Looking on the bright side, you'll have gained some valuable experience here, including the recrystallisation. That should help your next extraction to go more smoothly.

As a suggestion, 50g would be a nice amount to work with, I think you'll be quite pleased with the results from it.
 
Just did my first real extraction with Cyb's tek and I got a few questions:
1. After evaporation, the crystals turned from white to yellow, is that okay? Can it be related to the yellow Zippo ligther fluid?
2. When scraping the crystals, besides the nice powder in the picture, i also got some goo. What do I do with it? Can I disolve it in Naptha to make it crystallize again?
3. Can I store the powder in aluminium foil for a few days? Just until I find a glass container
 

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