psilocybin
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Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
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official extraction help thread
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would you guys be so kind to describe your mimosa bark? i need to have some neat description in order to pick up some good rootbark from the market. right now i have bark but it must be stembark, its hard, i see no fibers, its not flexible at all. its dark brown. how does your bark looks like?
Shattered_Symmetry
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Yeah i Have been trying to find out about bark too, my bark was shredded and contained a lot of light coloured fibers with a small amount of purplish dust if that helps in any way.
Swim is having some serious issues with an STB and suspects that it might be the MHRB, if anyone can help it would be really appreciated.
swim bought some and it looked kind of iffy, seemed to have mostly fibers in it and only a little dust after pulverising. swim soaked for 24 hours then allowed naptha to sit for another 6 hours then freeze precip. The jars with more dust in them were darker and yielded a brown goo surrounded by small white crystals after freeze precip. The jars with fibers in them yielded a small clump of off white crystals but a tiny amount of them considering that each jar has 120g mhrb in it!
This is the first pull so maybe im panicking over nothing, last time swim used Noman tek and powdered MHRB rather than the shredded stuff iv got this time. the results them were just white crystals in high volumes with no goo.
Is this what to expect with all shredded bark or has swim been sold shit mhrb, or has something gone horribly wrong?
any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
Swim is having some serious issues with an STB and suspects that it might be the MHRB, if anyone can help it would be really appreciated.
swim bought some and it looked kind of iffy, seemed to have mostly fibers in it and only a little dust after pulverising. swim soaked for 24 hours then allowed naptha to sit for another 6 hours then freeze precip. The jars with more dust in them were darker and yielded a brown goo surrounded by small white crystals after freeze precip. The jars with fibers in them yielded a small clump of off white crystals but a tiny amount of them considering that each jar has 120g mhrb in it!
This is the first pull so maybe im panicking over nothing, last time swim used Noman tek and powdered MHRB rather than the shredded stuff iv got this time. the results them were just white crystals in high volumes with no goo.
Is this what to expect with all shredded bark or has swim been sold shit mhrb, or has something gone horribly wrong?
any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
- Merits
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caliwa said:
As I said, its pink/purple, may have stringy material, may be completely powdered, depending on the powdering process thoroughness.
In any case as I said, I recommend that you buy from a normal ethnobotanical supplier at least, say, 100g, and then you can both have some normal mimosa to compare when buying in the market, as well as you can make a side-by-side extraction and compare yields.
Good luck
question travelers:
I did some xylene pulls (STB x) and i got the NP solvent sepparated now. i want to do a FASA precipitate.
1. should I partially evaporate the xylene for it to be more saturated with DMT?
2. do all I have to do is to add drop by drop the fasa solution? no other NP added? just adding it till its not cloudy any more and filter the precips?
EDIT:
3. If I perform an anhydrous acetone wash to the precips I may get, can I freeze precip it?
thanks !!!
I did some xylene pulls (STB x) and i got the NP solvent sepparated now. i want to do a FASA precipitate.
1. should I partially evaporate the xylene for it to be more saturated with DMT?
2. do all I have to do is to add drop by drop the fasa solution? no other NP added? just adding it till its not cloudy any more and filter the precips?
EDIT:
3. If I perform an anhydrous acetone wash to the precips I may get, can I freeze precip it?
thanks !!!
- Merits
- 112
No need to reduce the pulls ime (how much xylene is there per how much bark?). FASA can be added directly, slowly, till it stops cloudying. You can add a bit, wait a while, add a bit more to see if it clouds more, etc.
What do you mean with freeze precip? If you have your alkaloids in solid salt form, what do you want to precipitate them out of? The cold anhydrous aceotne should not dissolve your fumarates
What do you mean with freeze precip? If you have your alkaloids in solid salt form, what do you want to precipitate them out of? The cold anhydrous aceotne should not dissolve your fumarates
- Merits
- 112
How many pulls did you do, so total xylene more or less?
And yeah, acetone dissolves freebase spice very well, but it doesnt dissolve dmt fumarates. Just make sure its dry and cold, because the more water and the hotter it is, the more fumarates it would dissolve. Weigh before and after, and dont throw your wash acetone away in case something went wrong, so you dont lose anything.
Good luck and tell us how it went (always interested in knowing yields, yield after wash ,after conversion to freebase, etc)
And yeah, acetone dissolves freebase spice very well, but it doesnt dissolve dmt fumarates. Just make sure its dry and cold, because the more water and the hotter it is, the more fumarates it would dissolve. Weigh before and after, and dont throw your wash acetone away in case something went wrong, so you dont lose anything.
Good luck and tell us how it went (always interested in knowing yields, yield after wash ,after conversion to freebase, etc)
I just did one warm pull so i got 100 ml of xylene.
im curious, i now that FAQ says acetone must be fresh (or as you said, cold) before preparating the FASA solution, but, where should the water you mention come from? I dont see where is the water to be used in any part of the operation.
EDIT:
i got PURE acetone, not anhydrous acetone. would it work still? neither both of my chemical products suppliers have the anhydrous
im curious, i now that FAQ says acetone must be fresh (or as you said, cold) before preparating the FASA solution, but, where should the water you mention come from? I dont see where is the water to be used in any part of the operation.
EDIT:
i got PURE acetone, not anhydrous acetone. would it work still? neither both of my chemical products suppliers have the anhydrous
- Merits
- 112
anhydrous=no water, so your 'pure' might be anhydrous.
what % is your acetone? if its 99% or more, its good to go.. if its less, then get some magnesium sulphate to dry it
For making FASA the acetone doesnt have to be cold, room temperature is fine.. for washing fumarates, its better to have it cold.
what % is your acetone? if its 99% or more, its good to go.. if its less, then get some magnesium sulphate to dry it
For making FASA the acetone doesnt have to be cold, room temperature is fine.. for washing fumarates, its better to have it cold.
- Merits
- 42
Hey y'all.
2 questions running through my mind. I searched the forums and other sites, but couldn't find anything specifically about this, so I figured I'd throw them out to the esteemed colleagues here on the Nexus and see if anyone bites.
1) Oxidizing during EVAP: I realize that everyone always talks about evapping and no one seems to think it any kind of problem, but I have also read that exposure to oxygen converts DMT into n-oxide which is yellow, gooey and non-crystalizing. It also seems that this is what comes out of most people's total evaps. I also realize that most naptha pulls need to be reduced and concentrated in order to freeze precip. Does anyone think that room temp evaporations with a fan can convert the freebase to n-oxide?
2) Naptha layer CLEAR or YELLOWISH: It appears from observing SWIM's pulls that heated naptha pulls can sometimes come up tinged very slightly yellowish. If allowed to sit and cool while still on the base solution, they will slowly lose some of this tinge. Allowed to sit for an extended time, they can go basically clear again. Is clear naptha better?
It seems that as far as question 2 goes, the tinge could either be spice or oils. Obviously if the tinge is a good thing and it goes away as it cools, than the ideal solution is to pull while yellowy and warm. If, on the other hand, the tinge is just random plant oils that the NPS absorbs when warm or when the polar solution is very high in such oils, than waiting for it to sink would result in cleaner spice.
note: the tinge spoken of is NOT emulsion.
2 questions running through my mind. I searched the forums and other sites, but couldn't find anything specifically about this, so I figured I'd throw them out to the esteemed colleagues here on the Nexus and see if anyone bites.
1) Oxidizing during EVAP: I realize that everyone always talks about evapping and no one seems to think it any kind of problem, but I have also read that exposure to oxygen converts DMT into n-oxide which is yellow, gooey and non-crystalizing. It also seems that this is what comes out of most people's total evaps. I also realize that most naptha pulls need to be reduced and concentrated in order to freeze precip. Does anyone think that room temp evaporations with a fan can convert the freebase to n-oxide?
2) Naptha layer CLEAR or YELLOWISH: It appears from observing SWIM's pulls that heated naptha pulls can sometimes come up tinged very slightly yellowish. If allowed to sit and cool while still on the base solution, they will slowly lose some of this tinge. Allowed to sit for an extended time, they can go basically clear again. Is clear naptha better?
It seems that as far as question 2 goes, the tinge could either be spice or oils. Obviously if the tinge is a good thing and it goes away as it cools, than the ideal solution is to pull while yellowy and warm. If, on the other hand, the tinge is just random plant oils that the NPS absorbs when warm or when the polar solution is very high in such oils, than waiting for it to sink would result in cleaner spice.
note: the tinge spoken of is NOT emulsion.
VanillaSpice
Rising Star
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A friend was wondering....a tek had been done with mhrb using nature boys tek....everything had gone great up to the freeze precip....the next day when (maybe shouldn't?) pouring out the naptha and returning the container to the freezer upside down for another 24 hours allowing remaining naptha to seperate....the crystals were great but it almost seemed like there was maybe slight frost (was in a 3 cup spill proof, freezer safe pyrex container)....all scraped off nicely into their new homes (1/2 pint masons)....but a few days later when sitting at room temperature (checking stability? lol)they became slightly gooey....was it possible the solvent was still present? could the container be the cause and allowing moisture to enter?....
- Merits
- 57
Hyperfool, evaporation can cause oxidization. Clear naptha is not as good as cloudy naptha but as long as its not red naptha then you're fine ;] (cloudy indicates saturation, yellow indicates oils, red indicates microemulsion of base contaminants)
If you don't feel like waiting for your pulls to clear you can just recrystallize your product at the end of your extraction.
Vanillaspice, you don't want to expose your spice to excess heat, light, or humidity. After you extract and the crystals are dry store it in a vial in a cool dark place.
If you don't feel like waiting for your pulls to clear you can just recrystallize your product at the end of your extraction.
Vanillaspice, you don't want to expose your spice to excess heat, light, or humidity. After you extract and the crystals are dry store it in a vial in a cool dark place.
VanillaSpice
Rising Star
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Very nice...how about a suggested removal of the slight naptha odor(fumes?).recrys?
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- 112
Redissolve in (non-denatured) ethanol or acetone and let re-evaporate, naphtha traces will be gone
VanillaSpice
Rising Star
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As one would do to recrystalize? would it be just a straight air evap then or freeze precip and pour off? More interesting question...how could this step have been avoided?
- Merits
- 42
Thanks Sajdah...
So the obvious follow-up question is why is everyone doing so much evaporating if it oxidizes the spice?
Is it simply a negligible amount and a good trade off for the obvious benefits? (reducing volume, better crystalization, and thorough drying of the end product)
I have heard of people who like n-oxide, and even prefer it... though most people seem to regard it as a bad thing.
I suppose the n-oxide that forms before being absorbed into the NPS is more problematic as it seems it doesn't migrate into the NPS as well. Whereas, once it is in the naptha or whatever it can oxidize all it wants and is still easily recoverable and useable. Correct me if I'm wrong on this.
So the obvious follow-up question is why is everyone doing so much evaporating if it oxidizes the spice?
Is it simply a negligible amount and a good trade off for the obvious benefits? (reducing volume, better crystalization, and thorough drying of the end product)
I have heard of people who like n-oxide, and even prefer it... though most people seem to regard it as a bad thing.
I suppose the n-oxide that forms before being absorbed into the NPS is more problematic as it seems it doesn't migrate into the NPS as well. Whereas, once it is in the naptha or whatever it can oxidize all it wants and is still easily recoverable and useable. Correct me if I'm wrong on this.
- Merits
- 42
As for the color of the naptha, obviously cloudy is good and totally clear is bad.
I was wondering about the yellowish tinge, and you answered that perfectly. Oils in the naptha was my 1st guess. SWIM has never seen red, but has noticed that 1st freeze precips w/o recrystalizing can look lightly pinkish, orangish and yellowish.
A kind of in-process recrystalizing was discovered by SWIM. If one takes the naptha out of the freezer relatively early in the precip and then pours everything into a fresh jar. What shows up in the 1st jar is the colored spice, but the 2nd jar precips the white stuff directly. Apparently, the heavier oils and impurities drop out first. This is what seems to be the case with the tinges I was talking about as well. Yellowy naptha will clear over time as the oils drop back out.
Obviously, this portion of "dirty" spice could be itself recrystalized or perhaps used as a "mild" version as it seems that when one is careful with the exctraction the oils that would be in there wouldn't be harmfull. It seems that a number of people shoot for red spice on purpose ala the famed "jungle spice."
Anyway, it doesn't hurt to ask questions. And one can never know enough... especially when it comes to the magic alchemy.
I was wondering about the yellowish tinge, and you answered that perfectly. Oils in the naptha was my 1st guess. SWIM has never seen red, but has noticed that 1st freeze precips w/o recrystalizing can look lightly pinkish, orangish and yellowish.
A kind of in-process recrystalizing was discovered by SWIM. If one takes the naptha out of the freezer relatively early in the precip and then pours everything into a fresh jar. What shows up in the 1st jar is the colored spice, but the 2nd jar precips the white stuff directly. Apparently, the heavier oils and impurities drop out first. This is what seems to be the case with the tinges I was talking about as well. Yellowy naptha will clear over time as the oils drop back out.
Obviously, this portion of "dirty" spice could be itself recrystalized or perhaps used as a "mild" version as it seems that when one is careful with the exctraction the oils that would be in there wouldn't be harmfull. It seems that a number of people shoot for red spice on purpose ala the famed "jungle spice."
Anyway, it doesn't hurt to ask questions. And one can never know enough... especially when it comes to the magic alchemy.
