psilocybin
Rising Star
- Merits
- 87
Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
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official extraction help thread
- Thread starter psilocybin
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- dmt
endlessness said:What you will realize once you have gotten through your first or second extraction is that it is very 'forgiving'.... There's no need to really be exact, one just needs to 'get' the processes. So for example, using more naphtha, what did you read was the problem? Here's two things I can think about: waste (in terms of your money and ecologically), and the fact that if you pull with too much naphtha, you will need to pre-evaporate it to freeze precipitate, otherwise it wont be saturated enough and some (or all) dmt wont precipitate. The FAQ has recommendation regarding size of pulls and pre-evaporation, check that out.
Maybe the most important thing that I've learned regarding extractions is to never throw anything away until you're finished and happy with your final yield. The alkaloids dont dissapear, they are always in some part or another, so you can always recover it.
Let us know how it goes, and be sure to write an intro essay so we can properly welcome you into the community
Thanks, SWIM went with the normal amounts. SWIM will evap off some of the naptha before freezing. Now SWIM just needs to speed up the space time continuum
hello nexus so glad i found you! i am new here and this is my first message, so i apologize if this question is in the wrong place.
i am a little bit confused about something i see during separation..i'm using a basic mhrb, NaOH, and naphtha a/b method, and i get two distinct layers, but it's the 'frothy-snakeskin-foamy-looking goo' that seems to form in a thin layer in the middle that i'm unsure of. is this organic material eaten up by the NaOH? i'm sure i want to leave it out, but i did evaporate some and it smelled correct, (but i'm still 'iffy' about it). i know i want a nice crystal-clear final solvent, so i guess i just want to identify this thin middle layer for peace of mind. i am measuring the pH, but i can't seem to confirm reliably the correct levels. my range through the process begins at pH 3 and ends no higher than pH 9. also, i am not shaking up any bubbles when i add my naphtha, and if i do get some i pop them with a toothpick, so i'm pretty sure this 'foam' i'm seeing is something else. any input on this is greatly appreciated. thank you all for this wonderful collaboration. love and gratitude to all -mantis12
so glad i found you! i am new here and this is my first message, so i apologize if this question is in the wrong place.i am a little bit confused about something i see during separation..i'm using a basic mhrb, NaOH, and naphtha a/b method, and i get two distinct layers, but it's the 'frothy-snakeskin-foamy-looking goo' that seems to form in a thin layer in the middle that i'm unsure of. is this organic material eaten up by the NaOH? i'm sure i want to leave it out, but i did evaporate some and it smelled correct, (but i'm still 'iffy' about it). i know i want a nice crystal-clear final solvent, so i guess i just want to identify this thin middle layer for peace of mind. i am measuring the pH, but i can't seem to confirm reliably the correct levels. my range through the process begins at pH 3 and ends no higher than pH 9. also, i am not shaking up any bubbles when i add my naphtha, and if i do get some i pop them with a toothpick, so i'm pretty sure this 'foam' i'm seeing is something else. any input on this is greatly appreciated. thank you all for this wonderful collaboration. love and gratitude to all
-mantis12
- Merits
- 57
That is called an emulsion and can be fixed by adding more lye. pH is known to drop after each consecutive pull. If you are unsure of your purity you can perform a nice simple recrystallization on it which is explained in the Wiki.
trying something new just wanted some opinions before i attempt anything.
purchased some d-limo, called CitraSolv, is this product okay to use?
I have an exhausted stb jar and planned on letting the naphtha evap then pour some of this citrasolv in it to try and get jungle before i throw away my base jar.
does this work the same as naphtha or do i skip the freeze part and just evap it to retrieve product? thanks.
purchased some d-limo, called CitraSolv, is this product okay to use?
I have an exhausted stb jar and planned on letting the naphtha evap then pour some of this citrasolv in it to try and get jungle before i throw away my base jar.
does this work the same as naphtha or do i skip the freeze part and just evap it to retrieve product? thanks.
Attachments
Hi there! 
I have some questions, hope that you help me a little bit.
I will use heptane to make the extration, and I will filter it with an activated charcoal filter. The plan is, to put all the pulls in a big jar, and after that, filter it and move them to the fridge.
The questions are:
- It's correct to filter the heptane just after making the pull? Or it's the same if I do the first thing I've said?
- Could be a good idea to filter the heptane before using it to purify it more?
- Will the activated charcoal remove or reduce the final ammount of the DMT?
And besides that, more:
- The DMT pKa is 8.68. The pKa is the same whatever the solvent that you used or it may vary?
This number means that the DMT will "appear" after turning the PH under it or above it when I add the solvent?
And the final and newbie one:
- Do I need to filter the MHRB from the water + lye mixture and discard it, or should I preserve it inside this mixture during all the extraction?
Thank you!
I have some questions, hope that you help me a little bit.
I will use heptane to make the extration, and I will filter it with an activated charcoal filter. The plan is, to put all the pulls in a big jar, and after that, filter it and move them to the fridge.
The questions are:
- It's correct to filter the heptane just after making the pull? Or it's the same if I do the first thing I've said?
- Could be a good idea to filter the heptane before using it to purify it more?
- Will the activated charcoal remove or reduce the final ammount of the DMT?
And besides that, more:
- The DMT pKa is 8.68. The pKa is the same whatever the solvent that you used or it may vary?
This number means that the DMT will "appear" after turning the PH under it or above it when I add the solvent?
And the final and newbie one:
- Do I need to filter the MHRB from the water + lye mixture and discard it, or should I preserve it inside this mixture during all the extraction?
Thank you!
- Merits
- 112
While activated charcoal might serve to clean your solvent from some plant oils, it may also trap your alkaloids. I would NOT use it. You could use it before pulling with your solvent but I dont see much sense because your solvent should be clean when you buy it. I think its more effective to recrystallize your product if its not pure enough.
DMT pKa is 8.68. That is the ph when 50% of dmt is in freebase form and 50% in salt form. You can use this calculator to see at a specific pH, how much DMT will be in freebase form: Freebase percentage AND pH calculator - Advanced/Enhanced chemistry - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus
Basically what you want is that the mimosa solution is black.. that is a good enough indicator of pH to know your pH is high enough.
As for filtering the MHRB from water, dont if you have added the base. You filter the mimosa from the water if the solution is ACIDIC, thats the difference of an STB (no filtering) from an A/B (with 3-5x acidic boils, filtering, reducing, then adding base). Check the FAQ and wiki for more info.
DMT pKa is 8.68. That is the ph when 50% of dmt is in freebase form and 50% in salt form. You can use this calculator to see at a specific pH, how much DMT will be in freebase form: Freebase percentage AND pH calculator - Advanced/Enhanced chemistry - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus
Basically what you want is that the mimosa solution is black.. that is a good enough indicator of pH to know your pH is high enough.
As for filtering the MHRB from water, dont if you have added the base. You filter the mimosa from the water if the solution is ACIDIC, thats the difference of an STB (no filtering) from an A/B (with 3-5x acidic boils, filtering, reducing, then adding base). Check the FAQ and wiki for more info.
Thank you for your answer!
Hum, after reading more in the FAQ, seems that I've been mixing different things. But I still having some questions/confirmations:
- The heptane doesn't change the PH to an acid state, does it? I was thinking that the heptane had an acidic character (d'Oh)
- Do you think that 50ml would be ok? (for 1L of water, 50g NaOH and 50g MHRB)
- And according on the ml and number of pulls, I've read that the more you do with less amount, the better results. Maybe a proportion of 50ml for the first pull and using 15ml (1/3) for the other pulls will work (of course recycling it and adding more if it's needed). What do you think about?
- Maybe a good use for the charcoal filters would be, once you have extracted everything you could, then redisolve the crystals in heptane, filter them, and if you want to go even further, after that use washing soda too. Is this a complete senseless or it's okay?
I don't have a special obsesion with the activated charcoal, it's due to I bought them and I cannot return them now. Newbie's ideas, you know... :lol: Instead of throwing them to the litter, better using them. Fortunately they weren't too expensive.
I hope that it was all, thanks.
Cheers!
Hum, after reading more in the FAQ, seems that I've been mixing different things. But I still having some questions/confirmations:
- The heptane doesn't change the PH to an acid state, does it? I was thinking that the heptane had an acidic character (d'Oh)
- Do you think that 50ml would be ok? (for 1L of water, 50g NaOH and 50g MHRB)
- And according on the ml and number of pulls, I've read that the more you do with less amount, the better results. Maybe a proportion of 50ml for the first pull and using 15ml (1/3) for the other pulls will work (of course recycling it and adding more if it's needed). What do you think about?
- Maybe a good use for the charcoal filters would be, once you have extracted everything you could, then redisolve the crystals in heptane, filter them, and if you want to go even further, after that use washing soda too. Is this a complete senseless or it's okay?
I don't have a special obsesion with the activated charcoal, it's due to I bought them and I cannot return them now. Newbie's ideas, you know... :lol: Instead of throwing them to the litter, better using them. Fortunately they weren't too expensive.
I hope that it was all, thanks.
Cheers!
Another simple question.
Can I recycle my heptane forever? I mean after finishing with the whole extration (the x number of pulls, not just one), filtering it with the charcoal filters, and then storing it until the next time I want to use it. With this thing I will only lose a few ml for each evaporation, but not more and it will be cheaper.
What do you think about it? Should I replace it with a fresh new heptane after finishing? Or on the contrary, using for the next extraction the recyled heptane it's fine?
Can I recycle my heptane forever? I mean after finishing with the whole extration (the x number of pulls, not just one), filtering it with the charcoal filters, and then storing it until the next time I want to use it. With this thing I will only lose a few ml for each evaporation, but not more and it will be cheaper.
What do you think about it? Should I replace it with a fresh new heptane after finishing? Or on the contrary, using for the next extraction the recyled heptane it's fine?
- Merits
- 112
Istubar, using the activated charcoal for cleaning up solvent before reusing sounds like good idea. Im not sure how many times you can reuse it, maybe indefinitely if you wash it and then use activated charcoal. Dont use charcoal to clean up alkaloids as you may lose some.
Using less solvent for later pulls sounds ok in theory but it may be hard to separate such small amount if you dont have a separatory funnel or a very thin tall container. Just remember main important thing is to not throw anything away till you have your final yield. Keep pulling while there is still dmt crashing out.
Using less solvent for later pulls sounds ok in theory but it may be hard to separate such small amount if you dont have a separatory funnel or a very thin tall container. Just remember main important thing is to not throw anything away till you have your final yield. Keep pulling while there is still dmt crashing out.
Godsarepeople
Rising Star
- Merits
- 42
Hello everyone, on swim's last extraction he thought instead of heating up the naphtha then adding it to the mix, why not just add it first to the MHRB mixture, then put the whole bottle/container in a HOT bath, once container is hot then start to agitate it and then do the pulls.
Anyway swim doesn't like to smoke his spice straight from base anymore, and wants to extend the length of the trip (Extends life) and needs your help. He has been doing some research?. He has some Syrian Rue seeds. Now some help pls. should he be changing free base DMT into a fumarate/salt, cap it, then take with syrian. Is there a more extended trip ways out there? Also if there are some good instructions on it out there?... thanks!!
Anyway swim doesn't like to smoke his spice straight from base anymore, and wants to extend the length of the trip (Extends life) and needs your help. He has been doing some research?. He has some Syrian Rue seeds. Now some help pls. should he be changing free base DMT into a fumarate/salt, cap it, then take with syrian. Is there a more extended trip ways out there? Also if there are some good instructions on it out there?... thanks!!
- Merits
- 112
Yeah you can put the whole container on warm bath, it works.. I suggest doing that to the later pulls instead of the first ones, that way the first ones should come out cleaner, and the last ones you can freeze separately and re-x if needed.
As for taking dmt orally, I think its more effective if the alkaloids are in solution, than capping, but there's the taste issue... I think its the price to pay, though.. With rue, if you're a pregnant female you should avoid taking whole rue or simple brews, and should do at least one manske step to separate harmalas from other alkaloids in rue, and then redissolve them in water and drink.
I suggest also checking out caapi, I preffer it than rue but there are people that preffer rue, so check it out for yourself
Instructions, check the FAQ maybe it helps. If there's anything in specific you cant find the answer to, be sure to ask ...
See ya
As for taking dmt orally, I think its more effective if the alkaloids are in solution, than capping, but there's the taste issue... I think its the price to pay, though.. With rue, if you're a pregnant female you should avoid taking whole rue or simple brews, and should do at least one manske step to separate harmalas from other alkaloids in rue, and then redissolve them in water and drink.
I suggest also checking out caapi, I preffer it than rue but there are people that preffer rue, so check it out for yourself
Instructions, check the FAQ maybe it helps. If there's anything in specific you cant find the answer to, be sure to ask ...
See ya
Godsarepeople
Rising Star
- Merits
- 42
Thanks endlessness. He will hot bath it on the final pulls now (woops). caapi look interesting and he didn't know about the seperation of rue. He just though you just filter it and boil it down?
- Merits
- 112
yeah you can cook, filter and reduce to manageable amount and drink, but it has vasicine/vasicinone and deoxyvasicine, which arent psychoactive, arent MAOIs.. They are uterotonic for women and can induce abortion, but Im not aware of negative effects in men (or if not-pregnant women can have painful contractions from it or something). Those alkaloids are bronchodilators, so they may even have medicinal use..
For prudency I usually eliminate them doing a manske step (100g salt per liter of boiling rue solution), letting it crystallize for a few hours, decant/filter and redissolve, then you can either keep extracting with a base and later redissolve, or straight away redissolve the salt and drink that, calculating by the amount of rue (around 3.5g rue is enough MAOI, so divide what you have left in the equivalent amount).
Do check out aya and compare one day, drinking same amount of rue with DMT, and some other time aya with DMT, and let us know how it feels for you. For aya brewing, I like to do around 4x 40min boils without acid, and reduce on low fire till around 50-100ml per dose. I dont throw the aya away and let it soaking in vinegar for a week afterwards, with some boiling in between at times when i remember to do so. Then I extract that, to retrieve last alkaloids.
Oh btw, if you use dmt you extracted with naphtha, I suggest redissolving it in non denatured ethanol or pure acetone or similar, and reevapping it to get rid of any trapped naphtha in the crystals, and only then redissolving in the caapi/rue solution to drink
For prudency I usually eliminate them doing a manske step (100g salt per liter of boiling rue solution), letting it crystallize for a few hours, decant/filter and redissolve, then you can either keep extracting with a base and later redissolve, or straight away redissolve the salt and drink that, calculating by the amount of rue (around 3.5g rue is enough MAOI, so divide what you have left in the equivalent amount).
Do check out aya and compare one day, drinking same amount of rue with DMT, and some other time aya with DMT, and let us know how it feels for you. For aya brewing, I like to do around 4x 40min boils without acid, and reduce on low fire till around 50-100ml per dose. I dont throw the aya away and let it soaking in vinegar for a week afterwards, with some boiling in between at times when i remember to do so. Then I extract that, to retrieve last alkaloids.
Oh btw, if you use dmt you extracted with naphtha, I suggest redissolving it in non denatured ethanol or pure acetone or similar, and reevapping it to get rid of any trapped naphtha in the crystals, and only then redissolving in the caapi/rue solution to drink
I'm very interested in trying to pull jungle spice with xylene. I've been reading about these techniques for it but I'm quite unsure how to end up with smokable spice. I think this FASA method is quite popular with xylene jungle spice pulling but one ends up with DMT-fumarate after doing it, if I'm correct. Is it difficult to turn this into smokable spice or which method should I attempt to proceed with?
- Merits
- 112
Turning fumarates to freebase is very easy. Check out BLAB tek, it has a method for the conversion.
You could also salt with vinegar if you dont have fumaric acid or acetone, but converting acetates to freebase crystals is trickier IME, because it doesnt precipitate out of water when basing like the fumarate conversion.. You could just make paste of acetate with calcium hydroxide or sodium carbonate, dry, and pull with IPA/ dry ethanol/acetone and evap that for a very psychoactive goo made mostly of DMT. Infuse some herbs and youre good to go. Or do the fumarate way and get some crystals.
You could also salt with vinegar if you dont have fumaric acid or acetone, but converting acetates to freebase crystals is trickier IME, because it doesnt precipitate out of water when basing like the fumarate conversion.. You could just make paste of acetate with calcium hydroxide or sodium carbonate, dry, and pull with IPA/ dry ethanol/acetone and evap that for a very psychoactive goo made mostly of DMT. Infuse some herbs and youre good to go. Or do the fumarate way and get some crystals.
