psilocybin
Rising Star
- Merits
- 87
Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
-
Members of the previous forum can retrieve their temporary password here, (login and check your PM).
official extraction help thread
- Thread starter psilocybin
- Start date
-
- Tags
- dmt
- Merits
- 112
Infundibulum mentioned he tried once FASA on limonene and it didnt work, for some reason FASA separated as a different layer instead of mixing in with limonene and fumarates precipitating (weird! ).. So yeah I think you have to use FASI for limonene, but hey, if you have both, might be worth trying out with a small part of the limonene to see if you can confirm inf's weird results.. The alkaloids can always be saved if something goes wrong, by just washing the limo/acetone with water, collecting the water and evaporating it for crude fumarates.
That's why I decided to try xylene instead.
- Merits
- 112
So yeah you can use xylene and do FASA on xylene
RahuTheSunEater
Rising Star
- Merits
- 42
Im about to do the nomans tek for the first time tonight and it will be my first extraction all together. From what Ive come to understand the first three pulls go straight to the freezer and the 4th one you let sit to evaporate. Ive been reading around and have came to the conclusion that it might be beneficial to let the first 3 pulls sit and evaporate for a while as well before freezing. Is this a correct assumption? And if so do I let the jars sit with the lid off or on? And if I do let them stand for a day or 2 is there anything I should be looking for before I do freeze them?
- Merits
- 42
Correct, before freezing it is good to reduce the amount of nonpolar liquid you have by evaporation. This makes the solution more concentrated with spice, so more precipitates out when you freeze it. Reducing it to 40% of inital volume is a good level.
As the solution gets more concentrated it may become cloudy or turn yellow. Just go ahead and evaporate uncovered with lid off and aid of a fan. Before freeze precipitating, if necessary, mildy heat it for a minute to redissove any crystals that came out early, and then filter it to get rid of any dust or particles that flew in during the evap. Stick it in the freezer and youll have great spice in no time.
As the solution gets more concentrated it may become cloudy or turn yellow. Just go ahead and evaporate uncovered with lid off and aid of a fan. Before freeze precipitating, if necessary, mildy heat it for a minute to redissove any crystals that came out early, and then filter it to get rid of any dust or particles that flew in during the evap. Stick it in the freezer and youll have great spice in no time.
wish i'd found this forum earlier, i just went on a buying spree today trying to get setup for my first try. I based my purchases on the extraction method 1 listed here
seemed quite straight forward, but now im starting to feel like it might be a bit out of date when reading some replies here on the forums, and to be honest i thought i had a pretty clear idea of what i was going to do, but reading people talking on here i now feel like im a bit confused, so really what i need is advice from any experienced people on any of the things ive bought that could be replaced with something better or "cleaner"
so far i've got:
50g MHRB (to try for the first time)
£5 hydrochloric acid 35% i think
£8 digital ph tester
£3 3 different sizes of plastic funnels
£2 small pipette (probably waste because way too small)
£5 large glass turkey baster
£10 3x 900ml glass jars+ lids
£3.50 pyrex measuring pouring jug (like big gravy jug)
£5 basic safety thing with goggles and gloves
£3 100x large unbleached coffee filters
still need:
£2.50 caustic soda
£2.50 cotton filter
£2.50 naptha lighter fluid
distilled water
so all in from scratch about £50 + £11 for 50g MHRB
now, the first thing i noticed is you guys talking about freezing it, which isn't done in these methods, they just seem to take the final product and evap it, so i might have to read a bit more, but generally what i would like help with is just if there is anything i should change before i start, obviously i want to do this with "nice" chemicals if possible, so i'm feeling that there may be other substances now that are thought to be better to use, for example, it seemed a bit scary to use caustic soda, i haven't bought that yet so should i replace it with something else?
in one trial they used a cotton T-shirt instead of cotton buds which i thought would be a good idea? i thought it would make it easier to ring out the sludge left after filtering, i could line the funnel and just pul it out when done and squeeze?
thought i had my mind set on what i was going to do, but being autistic im now panicking because i always want to do things 100% right and perfect to get as high a yield as possible.
seemed quite straight forward, but now im starting to feel like it might be a bit out of date when reading some replies here on the forums, and to be honest i thought i had a pretty clear idea of what i was going to do, but reading people talking on here i now feel like im a bit confused, so really what i need is advice from any experienced people on any of the things ive bought that could be replaced with something better or "cleaner"
so far i've got:
50g MHRB (to try for the first time)
£5 hydrochloric acid 35% i think
£8 digital ph tester
£3 3 different sizes of plastic funnels
£2 small pipette (probably waste because way too small)
£5 large glass turkey baster
£10 3x 900ml glass jars+ lids
£3.50 pyrex measuring pouring jug (like big gravy jug)
£5 basic safety thing with goggles and gloves
£3 100x large unbleached coffee filters
still need:
£2.50 caustic soda
£2.50 cotton filter
£2.50 naptha lighter fluid
distilled water
so all in from scratch about £50 + £11 for 50g MHRB
now, the first thing i noticed is you guys talking about freezing it, which isn't done in these methods, they just seem to take the final product and evap it, so i might have to read a bit more, but generally what i would like help with is just if there is anything i should change before i start, obviously i want to do this with "nice" chemicals if possible, so i'm feeling that there may be other substances now that are thought to be better to use, for example, it seemed a bit scary to use caustic soda, i haven't bought that yet so should i replace it with something else?
in one trial they used a cotton T-shirt instead of cotton buds which i thought would be a good idea? i thought it would make it easier to ring out the sludge left after filtering, i could line the funnel and just pul it out when done and squeeze?
thought i had my mind set on what i was going to do, but being autistic im now panicking because i always want to do things 100% right and perfect to get as high a yield as possible.
- Merits
- 112
Do not use that tek, thats maybe the worse possible tek you can do, your health is in danger following it.
Please notice that erowid has a huge warning/disclaimer on top of the tek with the mistakes, innacuracies and so on, which was mainly a work done by Entropymancer here from the nexus:
Better use any of the teks you feel comfortable with in our wiki, click link in my signature. Also dont miss out on the FAQ, a lot of knowledge there. Feel free to ask any question once you have read a bit and decided what to do.
Please notice that erowid has a huge warning/disclaimer on top of the tek with the mistakes, innacuracies and so on, which was mainly a work done by Entropymancer here from the nexus:
Erowid DMT Vaults : Extraction : QT's DMT Extraction Guide
A students guide to extracting DMT.
www.erowid.org
Better use any of the teks you feel comfortable with in our wiki, click link in my signature. Also dont miss out on the FAQ, a lot of knowledge there. Feel free to ask any question once you have read a bit and decided what to do.
ok thanks endlessness, i thought i was finally getting somewhere but seems like it's back to the drawing board, hopefully i can still use some of the things i bought, like the baster and the glass jars, so i shouldn't lose to much. Looks like i've got a lot more reading to do
- Merits
- 112
You can use all of what you bought I guess, either in this extraction or another one.. Dont worry, your time and money werent a waste, you already started getting familiar with extractions and the products needed, so now you can read a bit more and you'll know more than ever, and for sure will have a succesful extraction. Just be sure not to throw anything away before its all finished, DMT doesnt run away unless you throw it away 
Lazymans tek seems strangely straight forward compared to what i had in mind. I've used caustic lots of times to unblock drains and it seems to basically be - add the caustic/water solution to the ground up mhrb, stir + leave for while, add a load of naptha,stir + leave a while, extract the naptha, add fresh naptha to the mix and just extract a few times over a couple of days.
am i missing something or is there a more widely accepted better method? it seems to miss out the whole stage of going low ph first and seems like a very simple technique.
am i missing something or is there a more widely accepted better method? it seems to miss out the whole stage of going low ph first and seems like a very simple technique.
- Merits
- 112
For STBs, noman's tek is a good choice I think
RahuTheSunEater
Rising Star
- Merits
- 42
I went through with the nomans tek and it's in the freezer right now. It said if my rootbark was already powdered then to use more water (1.5x as much). I did this with 100 gs of mhrb to 1500 ml of water and 150 gs of lye. I did the naptha to match the water and lye, was I right in doing this? Im kinda nervous cause Ive fucked up a few times already.
- Merits
- 112
Truth is, that "warning" to say that with powdered bark more water is necessary is not a must, or in other words, you can use the original ratio suggested in the tek even for pre-powdered bark. If you added more water, its ok too, its just a lot of water to deal with but its not a problem.
Just dont throw anything away before you're completely finished, and you'll be fine
Just dont throw anything away before you're completely finished, and you'll be fine
do we have any science brains on the forum? I'm really getting into learning about the different Naphthas and what they contain, but i'm having a problem finding out the difference between
"Light Aliphatic Naphtha"
and
"Light Hydrotreated Distillate"
i'm getting the impression that distillate is like a cheaper less pure version of aliphatic naptha, which would be interesting seeing as some napthas are 100% LAN, some are 100% LHD and some are 70/30
anyway, ive bought some ronsonol which is 100% LAN and some colemans fuel which is 100% LHD, so i'll see if there's any difference
edit:
Light Hydrotreated Distillate = carbon range c9-c16
Light Aliphatic Naphtha = carbon range c7-c9
so i wonder if one is better than the other, seeing as people seem to take the products as being the same, when in fact, they have different carbon ranges
edit2:
looks like distillate is more of a kerosene with a higher boiling point and made up of LAN+other things. So I think i will stick with the Ronsonol which is 100% LAN, Zippo is 70/30 and colemans is 100% LHD, so i get the impression that LAN is a bit more pure
"Light Aliphatic Naphtha"
and
"Light Hydrotreated Distillate"
i'm getting the impression that distillate is like a cheaper less pure version of aliphatic naptha, which would be interesting seeing as some napthas are 100% LAN, some are 100% LHD and some are 70/30
anyway, ive bought some ronsonol which is 100% LAN and some colemans fuel which is 100% LHD, so i'll see if there's any difference
edit:
Light Hydrotreated Distillate = carbon range c9-c16
Light Aliphatic Naphtha = carbon range c7-c9
so i wonder if one is better than the other, seeing as people seem to take the products as being the same, when in fact, they have different carbon ranges
edit2:
looks like distillate is more of a kerosene with a higher boiling point and made up of LAN+other things. So I think i will stick with the Ronsonol which is 100% LAN, Zippo is 70/30 and colemans is 100% LHD, so i get the impression that LAN is a bit more pure
question regarding Noman's tek and doing a sodium carbonate wash. What it seems to say is that you take your naphtha solution, freeze precipitate it, clean it all out etc, then re dissolve it in naphtha, add the wash, let it separate and take out the naphtha layer.
So i was wondering, can't you just take your original naphtha solution and before you freeze it add the wash, then separate it? wouldn't that work? like adding a cleaning stage in between the original separation and the freezing, so doing two separations rather than one. It seems to make more sense in my head than freezing it and cleaning it out then redissolving it in the solution you've just cleaned it from.
So i was wondering, can't you just take your original naphtha solution and before you freeze it add the wash, then separate it? wouldn't that work? like adding a cleaning stage in between the original separation and the freezing, so doing two separations rather than one. It seems to make more sense in my head than freezing it and cleaning it out then redissolving it in the solution you've just cleaned it from.
ZarathustraMadman
Rising Star
- Merits
- 42
Is it just as easy as dissolving your crystals into hot naptha, letting the naptha cool and putting it back in the fridge to re-crystallize?
Also, is there a way to get the crystals off of the brown goo at the bottom of the jar without getting the goo?
Also, is there a way to get the crystals off of the brown goo at the bottom of the jar without getting the goo?
- Merits
- 112
Yeah its easy, you have to decant your naphtha away from the goo that stays on the bottom of the glass, though, before putting you let it cool/put in the fridge, otherwise you wont be cleaning anything.
FAQ has instructions. Decanting naphtha from goo is very easy because naphtha pours easily and the goo is viscous, it stays more attached to the glass.
FAQ has instructions. Decanting naphtha from goo is very easy because naphtha pours easily and the goo is viscous, it stays more attached to the glass.
ZarathustraMadman
Rising Star
- Merits
- 42
Is the goo good for anything? I dried it out and chopped it up just in case. I know there are some crystals left in it, and so I will re-dissolve it and what not to get them out, but what about the goo itself? Toss it or keep it for something else?
Thanks.
Thanks.
ZarathustraMadman
Rising Star
- Merits
- 42
Is the goo good for anything? I dried it out and chopped it up just in case. I know there are some crystals left in it, and so I will re-dissolve it and what not to get them out, but what about the goo itself? Toss it or keep it for something else?
Thanks.
Thanks.
