psilocybin
Rising Star
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Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
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official extraction help thread
- Thread starter psilocybin
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- dmt
- Merits
- 112
You can probably pull some more DMT with some more warm naphtha.. Freeze that second pull separately. You can try doing even a third pull, and either it will all dissolve in the last pull or some goo will still remain undissolved.. That will probably have very little DMT, most likely some plant impurities but maybe some DMT N-Oxide too. You can always try smoking that separately, it might have some effects, but it might be quite harsh smoke too. Any polar impurities or small droplets of the mimosa basic layer which may have come across will be down there in the goo.
ZarathustraMadman
Rising Star
- Merits
- 42
Thanks endless, I tried to smoke some of the goo last night, HARSH smoke, I think my lungs still hurt, with little effects...I will break it down ever further the way you said...
The naphtha, the very first layer in the separation after the base contains the spices, right? Freeze it for a couple of days and I should see some crystals forming, correct? OR is all this wrong?
What I did:
-Picked some phalaris
-blended it right away with distilled water
-place the blended phalaris on the stove @ #4 low for about 1 hour with a Ph of 2.
-Filtered the liquid into a glass jar.
-Placed the residue from the filter back into the pot and added distilled water of Ph of 2 and heated for an hour .
-Filtered and Repeated filter/heat process once more.
-Poured 1.5 oz of naphtha into jar shook it and let stand over night.
-Removed top two layers and discarded it,
-added .5 oz naphtha and shook it after 10 min removed top 2 layers and discarded
-Then cotton ball filtered it twice
-Heated baking soda in oven @ 500F and after 5 min poured it into solution
-Poured 2 oz of naptha
-after 2 hours I removed naphtha placed it in a plastic bottle
and placed it in the very back of the freezer for 12 hours
and NOTHING AT ALL. D:
NOW placed naphtha in sun for about 30min.
PLEASE LET ME KNOW THE WHAT THE FLAWS ARE IN THIS.
What I did:
-Picked some phalaris
-blended it right away with distilled water
-place the blended phalaris on the stove @ #4 low for about 1 hour with a Ph of 2.
-Filtered the liquid into a glass jar.
-Placed the residue from the filter back into the pot and added distilled water of Ph of 2 and heated for an hour .
-Filtered and Repeated filter/heat process once more.
-Poured 1.5 oz of naphtha into jar shook it and let stand over night.
-Removed top two layers and discarded it,
-added .5 oz naphtha and shook it after 10 min removed top 2 layers and discarded
-Then cotton ball filtered it twice
-Heated baking soda in oven @ 500F and after 5 min poured it into solution
-Poured 2 oz of naptha
-after 2 hours I removed naphtha placed it in a plastic bottle
and placed it in the very back of the freezer for 12 hours
and NOTHING AT ALL. D:
NOW placed naphtha in sun for about 30min.
PLEASE LET ME KNOW THE WHAT THE FLAWS ARE IN THIS.
- Merits
- 112
- Maybe your phalaris doesnt have dmt. What phalaris strain is it, grown or wild, and when was it harvested?
- Maybe you used too much naphtha and it isnt saturated enough so you need to pre-evaporate till only small amount is left before freezing
- Maybe your sodium bicarb didnt turn into carb and you need to heat it for a couple of hours in the oven instead of 5 mins
- Maybe even sodium carbonate isnt strong enough base and you need lye for good yields with naphtha pulls
- Maybe you didnt mix your pull well enough and enough times before separating from the phalaris mix (you just mentioned you poured the naphtha but not that you mixed it)
Unrelated with yield but: what kind of plastic is it that you put the naphtha in? I dont recommend using plastic, because it might dissolve and/or leech phthalates.
- Maybe you used too much naphtha and it isnt saturated enough so you need to pre-evaporate till only small amount is left before freezing
- Maybe your sodium bicarb didnt turn into carb and you need to heat it for a couple of hours in the oven instead of 5 mins
- Maybe even sodium carbonate isnt strong enough base and you need lye for good yields with naphtha pulls
- Maybe you didnt mix your pull well enough and enough times before separating from the phalaris mix (you just mentioned you poured the naphtha but not that you mixed it)
Unrelated with yield but: what kind of plastic is it that you put the naphtha in? I dont recommend using plastic, because it might dissolve and/or leech phthalates.
It was really hard to find grass since pretty much everything was almost turning yellow so I got a few green ones from a nearby palm tree. They were about 6 inches and were harvest on thursday of this week.
The pH after the sodium carbonate was around 10/11(bluish purple).
I shook the jar for about 4 mins than drove around with the jar in the car for about 10 additional minutes, then I let it sit.
I don't know what kind of plastic, but it's the hard plastic that can't be squeezed, it just stays in place.
The pH after the sodium carbonate was around 10/11(bluish purple).
I shook the jar for about 4 mins than drove around with the jar in the car for about 10 additional minutes, then I let it sit.
I don't know what kind of plastic, but it's the hard plastic that can't be squeezed, it just stays in place.
- Merits
- 112
Why are you driving around with an extraction mid-way in your car?! Sounds incredibly risky in terms of law.
If you dont know what kind of plastic, sounds like you can have plastic in your final product. Next time work with glass, and call this a failure.
If youre in the northern hemisphere now its not a good time to harvest phalaris, you should do it towards the second half of summer. Also if you dont even know what kind of phalaris it is, theres a good chance you got the wrong stuff. Check the phalaris link in my signature and the phalaris way of the future thread and other links in that thread to learn about phalaris.
If you dont know what kind of plastic, sounds like you can have plastic in your final product. Next time work with glass, and call this a failure.
If youre in the northern hemisphere now its not a good time to harvest phalaris, you should do it towards the second half of summer. Also if you dont even know what kind of phalaris it is, theres a good chance you got the wrong stuff. Check the phalaris link in my signature and the phalaris way of the future thread and other links in that thread to learn about phalaris.
endlessness said:
Cops are really not that bright in my area, tell them whatever and they'll believe it.
No, I'm from the south west (FLORIDA!!
).Yeah, I'll totally check that link out.
The main errors in my procedure were the plastic which I need to sub with glass and the phalaris?
endlessness said:
Is there a chance for that? Are there many hard plastics that can leave residue in the final product?
Wouldn't the better choice instead of glass be plastic that doesn't react with the product, as it cannot break like glass?
I just have read people saying they broke the glass due to pressure or something else.
well i didnt get an answer to my question unfortunately but swim did their first extraction and so far had 0.45g of elfy goodness from 50g of bark and still more to come :d
only problem was one pull the water the jars sat in was allowed to get too warm so he went from 3 pulls of beautiful white crystals to yellow waxy stuff, but it's all good and yield is great for 1st time
only problem was one pull the water the jars sat in was allowed to get too warm so he went from 3 pulls of beautiful white crystals to yellow waxy stuff, but it's all good and yield is great for 1st time
- Merits
- 112
SJ, what is your question, I dont see any there ?
Tele, yeah sure many hard plastics can have plasticizers or leech out other things. PP is notorious for leeching oleamide and other things, for example.
I think most people have their glass break because of temperatures changing too fast, thats why when adding lye one should add to room temp/cold water, and add slowly and keep stirring as they do. This way the heat is distributed. Also of course keep the container open as the lye is being dissolved to vent pressure due to the heat being generated. Also its recommended to work in a sink or with a bucket or something under so that even if it breaks (Ive never had any glass break and ive extracted since many years), you still wont make a mess.
Tele, yeah sure many hard plastics can have plasticizers or leech out other things. PP is notorious for leeching oleamide and other things, for example.
I think most people have their glass break because of temperatures changing too fast, thats why when adding lye one should add to room temp/cold water, and add slowly and keep stirring as they do. This way the heat is distributed. Also of course keep the container open as the lye is being dissolved to vent pressure due to the heat being generated. Also its recommended to work in a sink or with a bucket or something under so that even if it breaks (Ive never had any glass break and ive extracted since many years), you still wont make a mess.
I'm planning on making a mimosa soup tomorrow but I'm quite confused with ratios of supplies that I need. Thought of powdering 100g mhrb and mixing it with 200ml of 5% vinegar, then let it sit for few hours shaking occasionally. Then I'd be adding 500ml water and 100g lye and let it sit for a few days to pull with xylene afterwards.
Does this sound reasonable or should it be tweaked anyhow? Does it matter if I use a bit more water (~200ml) just to get the surface closer to the edge of my glass bottle for easier decanting of pulls?
Does this sound reasonable or should it be tweaked anyhow? Does it matter if I use a bit more water (~200ml) just to get the surface closer to the edge of my glass bottle for easier decanting of pulls?
- Merits
- 112
Check our FAQ
your plan gives a ratio of 1:9:1 , mimosa:water:lye.. It might work but you might want to use a bit more water, to get to a 1:15 ratio of mimosa to water. What might happen with using your proposed ratio is that the mixture is too thick and that the solvent doesnt rise to the top after mixing.
Also you are using a lot of lye, its not strictly necessary to use that much. You can probably use half of that and it would be fine. Just add enough lye to get the whole mixture jet black, add a bit more for good measure and you're set.
As for decanting pulls, sounds messy, did you ever do this? You should at least try it out with some cooking oil and water to see if you can really do it. I strongly suggest getting a glass pipette/turkey baster.
Also, how are you planning on retrieving the product from xylene? I suggest salting, not evapping, and later re-converting to freebase like BLAB tek.
your plan gives a ratio of 1:9:1 , mimosa:water:lye.. It might work but you might want to use a bit more water, to get to a 1:15 ratio of mimosa to water. What might happen with using your proposed ratio is that the mixture is too thick and that the solvent doesnt rise to the top after mixing.
Also you are using a lot of lye, its not strictly necessary to use that much. You can probably use half of that and it would be fine. Just add enough lye to get the whole mixture jet black, add a bit more for good measure and you're set.
As for decanting pulls, sounds messy, did you ever do this? You should at least try it out with some cooking oil and water to see if you can really do it. I strongly suggest getting a glass pipette/turkey baster.
Also, how are you planning on retrieving the product from xylene? I suggest salting, not evapping, and later re-converting to freebase like BLAB tek.
- Merits
- 42
Your amount of water may create problems. The vinegar is totally unnecessary the way you employ it. The xylene is trick if you do not know what to do with it afterwards as you cannot freeze precipitate it, and it will literally stink your place if you don't like the smell (chances are, you won't)Donald said:
Since you're a novice and you got absolutely no clue as to what you're doing and why, why don't you stick to a tried and tested tek (like noman's, q21q21's, vovins etc) instead of stitching together ideas and concepts from different teks? Let these wild experimentations for when you got a few successful extractions under your belt!:d
endlessness said:
here you go
question regarding Noman's tek and doing a sodium carbonate wash. What it seems to say is that you take your naphtha solution, freeze precipitate it, clean it all out etc, then re dissolve it in naphtha, add the wash, let it separate and take out the naphtha layer.
So i was wondering, can't you just take your original naphtha solution and before you freeze it add the wash, then separate it? wouldn't that work? like adding a cleaning stage in between the original separation and the freezing, so doing two separations rather than one. It seems to make more sense in my head than freezing it and cleaning it out then redissolving it in the solution you've just cleaned it from.
- Merits
- 112
SJ, you can definitely do it, its recommended, in fact... Wash before the initial freeze.
Donald, the vinegar is considered unnecessary because you are basically doing like an STB afterwards, adding a base without filtering the solids... The vinegar would be useful if you were doing an A/B, so you would do 4x boils and filter the solids away. Since you are not filtering, its hard to see a sense in it... Some teks like panoramix or BLAB have first been written to include that vinegar soak, but nobody did a side-by-side, AFAIK, to show that the vinegar soak helps in anything. Maaaybe if you had shredded bark instead of powdered, and if you left it for days, it would help breaking a but further the bark and increasing yields, but thats just a hypothesis and it might not be true. It wont hurt if you do that, though, the only thing is you'll be "wasting" a bit of vinegar (and some NaOH to neutralize it before it becomes basic), but if thats not a problem to you, go ahead!
Donald, the vinegar is considered unnecessary because you are basically doing like an STB afterwards, adding a base without filtering the solids... The vinegar would be useful if you were doing an A/B, so you would do 4x boils and filter the solids away. Since you are not filtering, its hard to see a sense in it... Some teks like panoramix or BLAB have first been written to include that vinegar soak, but nobody did a side-by-side, AFAIK, to show that the vinegar soak helps in anything. Maaaybe if you had shredded bark instead of powdered, and if you left it for days, it would help breaking a but further the bark and increasing yields, but thats just a hypothesis and it might not be true. It wont hurt if you do that, though, the only thing is you'll be "wasting" a bit of vinegar (and some NaOH to neutralize it before it becomes basic), but if thats not a problem to you, go ahead!
thanks endlessness, good to know, it certainly makes more sense in my head to do it before the initial freeze rather than freeze it, clean it (naphtha), re dissolve it in stuff you've just cleaned from and then clean with carbonate.
but certainly makes sense to do it in between the first separation and the freeze, seeing as the first solution is lye+water anyway and this is just carbonate+water, so i couldn't see any problems with doing it, in regards to loss of yield etc.
So really i'll have one jar for the lye part, put the naphta in and then separate into jar 2, make jar 2 the cleaning phase with carbonate, then separate again into a 3rd jar that goes in the freezer. Seems to be very simple and make real sense, because what goes in the freezer should be really clean.
I did use a small pipette to take the naphtha out 0.5ml at a time which was slow but for all my pulls i took less than 0.1ml of gunge with me, so i was happy, i had a good clean product in the freezer.
BIG bonus is that i was thinking 1/2 a gram would get me 2 doses, but in my mind i forgot that a dose was 25mg and not 250mg lol so now im really happy as i've gone from 2 doses to 15+ lol.
but certainly makes sense to do it in between the first separation and the freeze, seeing as the first solution is lye+water anyway and this is just carbonate+water, so i couldn't see any problems with doing it, in regards to loss of yield etc.
So really i'll have one jar for the lye part, put the naphta in and then separate into jar 2, make jar 2 the cleaning phase with carbonate, then separate again into a 3rd jar that goes in the freezer. Seems to be very simple and make real sense, because what goes in the freezer should be really clean.
I did use a small pipette to take the naphtha out 0.5ml at a time which was slow but for all my pulls i took less than 0.1ml of gunge with me, so i was happy, i had a good clean product in the freezer.
BIG bonus is that i was thinking 1/2 a gram would get me 2 doses, but in my mind i forgot that a dose was 25mg and not 250mg lol so now im really happy as i've gone from 2 doses to 15+ lol.
5th Dimensional
Rising Star
- Merits
- 42
What are some local sources of sodium carbonate that I can find? I used Roebix drain cleaner for my sodium hydroxide, but where can I find %100 sodium carbonate in a product?
Thanks!
Thanks!
- Merits
- 112
You can buy pure sodium bicarbonate in any grocery store, supermarket or pharmacy, its used for cooking, as anti-acid for the stomach, etc.. You can transform sodium bicarbonate into carbonate by heating it in the stovetop for some minutes or in the oven for an hour. Just weigh before and after, it loses a third of the weight. Careful because it will be REALLY hot, let it cool down before touching it etc.
wiki.dmt-nexus.me
Conversion of Sodium Bicarbonate into Sodium Carbonate - DMT-Nexus Wiki
- Merits
- 42
Funny enough (and I don't think this is mentioned very often) you do not need sodium carbonate if you have lye at hand. Sodium carbonate is used to make the water basic enough to keep dmt in the non-polar pull, something that lye can do more than easily.5th Dimensional said:
Dissolving 3-4 grams of sodium hydroxide per litre of water will do the same job as sodium carbonate and will give you a pH basic enough to wash your non-polar solvent. But if you're dying to get sodium carbonate (for whatever reason) then get baking of (aka sodium bicarbonate) (NOT baking powder) and cook it in the oven @200 C for 1 hour or so - baking soda will lose ~30% of its weight and at the same time will convert to sodium carbonate.
