psilocybin
Rising Star
Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
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official extraction help thread
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pastanostra
Rising Star
it's not advised to wash your product with that.
you may better do a recrystallization with a solvent or do a mini AB if you're unsure with your product.
Oh now I get it ... Ammonia Hydroxide is simply an Ammonia Solution (aq).
Yes you should not do it. Better recrystallize it, Ammonia is not that healthy and your product can be purified by other methods much safer and easily.
Using Ammonia seems mostly an old TEK and today I guess nobody does it anymore.
Yes you should not do it. Better recrystallize it, Ammonia is not that healthy and your product can be purified by other methods much safer and easily.
Using Ammonia seems mostly an old TEK and today I guess nobody does it anymore.
Hi,
Made a separate post already but thought i'd try here as well.
My mate is currently thinking of extracting from Acacia Colei, which is native to his area. Its said to contain 1% DMT in its bark and is pretty much the only one in his area that has that much.
He cannot find a Tek that features this specific acacia plant. He can't find how much plant matter he should use or how much of which ingredients to extract with. Does this even matter? It has almost the same amount of DMT% as Mimosa Hostillis, which has plent of Teks. Does he just copy one of those?
Heres a link to the only other post he could find on Acacia Colei extraction, using "Loki's Tek": (https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=6442)
Just tryin not to get poisoned, thanku
Made a separate post already but thought i'd try here as well.
My mate is currently thinking of extracting from Acacia Colei, which is native to his area. Its said to contain 1% DMT in its bark and is pretty much the only one in his area that has that much.
He cannot find a Tek that features this specific acacia plant. He can't find how much plant matter he should use or how much of which ingredients to extract with. Does this even matter? It has almost the same amount of DMT% as Mimosa Hostillis, which has plent of Teks. Does he just copy one of those?
Heres a link to the only other post he could find on Acacia Colei extraction, using "Loki's Tek": (https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=6442)
Just tryin not to get poisoned, thanku
AZ
Rising Star
Hi everyone, this is my first post.
I successfully did my first extraction from Mimosa Hostilis (nomans tek) but I only managed to get 0.17g of DMT from 50g of Mimosa, which seems small to me. Nomans tek says to remove the naptha layer on the top with the pipette 4 times into 4 jam jars, I did this and put them in the freezer overnight. The next morning the first 2 jars had crystals, the 3rd had a very tiny amount, and the 4th had none, so I'm assuming I could've got maybe twice the amount out of it. Nomans tek also says to add the mimosa to the lye and shake thoroughly then leave for an hour. The problem I have here is that my blender doesn't powder the mimosa, instead its still kinda fibery. I'm doing another extraction now but this time instead of leaving it for 1 hour I am going to try leaving it for 4.
My questions are:
Am I right to leave the mimosa in the lye for longer than an hour if I can't get it into a fine powder?
Can you recommend a decent enough blender that will turn my mimosa into a fine powder? I have a normal cheap blender and a coffee blender and neither are powerful enough. Should I invest in a blendtec or a vitamix or are there cheaper alternatives?
Thanks
I successfully did my first extraction from Mimosa Hostilis (nomans tek) but I only managed to get 0.17g of DMT from 50g of Mimosa, which seems small to me. Nomans tek says to remove the naptha layer on the top with the pipette 4 times into 4 jam jars, I did this and put them in the freezer overnight. The next morning the first 2 jars had crystals, the 3rd had a very tiny amount, and the 4th had none, so I'm assuming I could've got maybe twice the amount out of it. Nomans tek also says to add the mimosa to the lye and shake thoroughly then leave for an hour. The problem I have here is that my blender doesn't powder the mimosa, instead its still kinda fibery. I'm doing another extraction now but this time instead of leaving it for 1 hour I am going to try leaving it for 4.
My questions are:
Am I right to leave the mimosa in the lye for longer than an hour if I can't get it into a fine powder?
Can you recommend a decent enough blender that will turn my mimosa into a fine powder? I have a normal cheap blender and a coffee blender and neither are powerful enough. Should I invest in a blendtec or a vitamix or are there cheaper alternatives?
Thanks
AZ
Rising Star
So an update, I just got my 4 jars out of the freezer with similar results, the first and second had lots of crystals, the third had a few and the fourth had none. Im leaving the scraped crystals to dry and have the solvent on a baking tray with a fan on it to evaporate, when I'm back from work I'll weigh this yield, but it seems that leaving the MHRB in the lye for that extra 3 hours may have had no effect.
Also there has to be an easier way to do the freeze precipitation + scraping. Since these were my first 2 extractions I followed the tek to the letter, but scraping crystals from glass jars is a chore and i cant get all of them. Maybe instead of making 4 jars worth to freeze what if I just put it all straight in the baking tray with some cling film and freeze that? It would be easier to scrape. What do you think?
Also there has to be an easier way to do the freeze precipitation + scraping. Since these were my first 2 extractions I followed the tek to the letter, but scraping crystals from glass jars is a chore and i cant get all of them. Maybe instead of making 4 jars worth to freeze what if I just put it all straight in the baking tray with some cling film and freeze that? It would be easier to scrape. What do you think?
MagicalMushie
Rising Star
Hi,
I'm following Q21Q21's Tek. I'm struggling to find Xylol Xylene in the UK - just wondering if this would suffice? Or if someone could assist with a UK alternative?
Many thanks!
I'm following Q21Q21's Tek. I'm struggling to find Xylol Xylene in the UK - just wondering if this would suffice? Or if someone could assist with a UK alternative?
Many thanks!
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
If you look on that webpage and click on the "Technical Specification" section you'll see an entry for "Safety Data Sheet". There's a link called "click here" which opens a pdf that shows that this product does indeed consist of xylene isomers. So it appears you're not struggling at all. Have a little faith in your endeavours!MagicalMushie said:
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
Thank you for taking the time to look into this for yourself. That is the kind of approach we encourage here.AZ said:
You could start your own thread reviewing the blender once it arrives and it could be appended to a the relevant blender thread. Of course, if the blender thread you found allows new members to post, you could just post about it there. Posts in this thread tend to get lost (considering it's the FAQ thread) so it's far more helpful to post information on a specific topic elsewhere, where it's easier for other people to find.
Wishing you success!
Freezey said:
Well as long as the plant does not have any toxic substances that you would drag all the way along with your Spice, it should be no problem. And I highly doubt that there should be anything poisonous like this.
But maybe it has more *fats*, or better unwanted stuff that may also somehow be dissolved in all your solutions towards your end product, so better actually do the *defat* step, that would be normally skipped for Mimosa Hostilis and maybe also prepare for a recrystallization at the end, if your product will not be a white-to-yellow powder.
Besides this, following a standard TEK should also grant good results, but just do a try with a small amount (maybe 50 g) and then see if it's working or not. Then you can post back if you had problems at Step X or if it was not successful at all. :thumb_up:
AZ said:
First keep in mind that even at - 20 °C Naphtha still holds some DMT. It is roughly ~ 130 mg / 100 ml. So if you had 4x 100 ml then all the jars will still have like 130 mg inside and the last ones maybe did not precipitate anything at all because everything was still in solution.
I'd put everything together and reduce it down to 50 ml and then place in freezer again.
-> If you dont have that much solvent, then this cannot be the solution of course ; S
1. Question -> Yes leaving it longer in alkaline solution will not hurt the DMT. Just dont totally overshoot it, should also not be a problem, but a pH higher than 13 is pointless. The thing with the powder/non-powder is:
If it is loose stripes (and I can imagine how they look) you are totally good. A blender will never create real powder, but this is NO problem, it also works just as good. If you have really big particles, then it may be a problem, but they would have to be round with a diameter of 2 mm or more, not fibers (and the length does not matter then).
Still to be safe, just place it in 2x the amount or more. I never did Nomans TEK, but acidic cooks for 5 h are not a problem for TEks that tell to do 45 mins. No bad side effects ...
Therefore a regular Blender like this:
will totally do fine. Just place it in there for ~ 2 minutes even at the lowest setting (I always think high settings with REAL wood is simply too mean to such a nice machine) and the outcome will be perfectly fine.
Remember for example for harmala extraction you should just use the WHOLE SEEDS, as the goodies are even at the outer shell ...
Also 1 good point for NOT totally powdered bark: It's much better to handle, separating a powder from water is impossible to be done 100% while separating fine bark shreddlings from water is somehow managable in a very high %.
I would recommend doing something like this:
Put your Naphtha in a jar with something that covers it (Naphtha does evaporate really slow at - 20 °C but no need to get it into your food grade freezer) and then place it in freezer until not cloudy anymore - ok ... not much different.
Then get it out and slowly pour off the Naphtha. Now there will still be a liiiittle Naphtha inside, put your Glass upside down, but not totally, but a little bit sloped, so all remaining Naphtha may flow down. As your glass is still - 20 °C, you should still *cover* it with *sandwich foliage* so no water can adhere on the insides and on your crystals. Then after some minutes it should be away and there will just be a slight Naphtha smell in it. This can be now directly placed in front of a fan. Now fan until you dont smell any Naphtha anymore.
Now you are left with the Jar and dry Crystals. These can be easily collected.
So I wrote this because I was thinking that you separate Naphtha from crystals, but then scrape the crystals to dry them further in a separate jar, is this correct? In this case do it like above, its so easy. It's just a little bit more complicated if you get goo instead of Crystals, but then you can still decant the Naphtha and try to let it sit at a slope to let residual Naphtha run out without the goo exiting the jar, then dry with fan for a little longer (as goo may hold Naphtha for longer) :thumb_up:
Yes and dont worry if you did not get Powder. As I said: very finely shredded material is actually better to handle than REAL powder and you can extract the same amount of it with the same TEK.
EDIT:
Ooooh and never forget to put a little water inside the blender while you shredd your bark. Otherwise it may create a lot of tiny airborne powder that will even escape the blender - not healthy to inhale in longterm and also not efficient for the process. If the resulting liquid has too much air bubbles in it and looks like sludge, just heat it to 70 °C for some minutes and it will be again just bark particles in water.
AZ
Rising Star
Thanks for the replies downwardsfromzero and Brennendes Wasser.
I can vouch for the 1500W blender, 30 seconds and the MHRB is finely powdered. Ive got 2 more yields since posting and increased them to about 0.25g each for 50g of MHRB so I'm really happy with that.
Also Brennendes, I actually almost did what you said for my last yield, putting everything from one mixing jar into a Pyrex dish and freezing at a slight angle instead of the 4 separate ones like nomans tek says, but I didn't reduce them down before freezing. Im doing another extraction now, x4 50gs, so I'll experiment with that this time round.
Thanks.
I can vouch for the 1500W blender, 30 seconds and the MHRB is finely powdered. Ive got 2 more yields since posting and increased them to about 0.25g each for 50g of MHRB so I'm really happy with that.
Also Brennendes, I actually almost did what you said for my last yield, putting everything from one mixing jar into a Pyrex dish and freezing at a slight angle instead of the 4 separate ones like nomans tek says, but I didn't reduce them down before freezing. Im doing another extraction now, x4 50gs, so I'll experiment with that this time round.
Thanks.
Yo but dont forget to reduce your Naphtha in the end. If you have 50 g of Bark and you could roughly get 0,5 g from it and do like 5 pulls, then you should reduce the volume of each pull to 20 - 30 ml to be safe that the majority of each pull will precipitate.
Also always heat your Naphtha-Soup-Mixture, if you heat it to 60 °C (if using 60-80 °C boiling Naphtha) you can get all the actives out with just 3 pulls - when you let the soup and the naphtha sit for 10 minutes + each pull.
That's a way I would highly suggest over the regular *stirr without forming emulsions for 30 seconds* thing.
1. Reduce your soup from the cooking by 50 % (or even 75 % - easy when dropping in a pan, heating to 90 °C+ and putting a fan beneath)
2. put it in a pot or something that is much more tall than a pan and heat to 60 °C
3. Throw in 1/3 vol Naphtha compared to the volume soup (it's high, but therefore I would suggest reduce your soup)
4. wait 10 minutes, decant Naphtha (you dont have to be totally accurate to get all Naphtha out as you do multiple pulls)
5. repeat 3.+4. for two more times
Then combine all Naphtha pulls and make sure to not have any dark soup at the bottom, then reduce it like: for 100 g Bark = 50 - 100 ml Naphtha - and then place into Freezer.
By heating it up to 60 °C (if your Naphtha starts boiling above 60) allows a much higher concentration of DMT. Therefore the uptake from water towards Naphtha will be much higher in the same time window. And by just letting it sit you will completely avoid any emulsion EVER. Your Naphtha will be perfectly clean upon decanting. It's just too easy and efficient not to do it this way ... at least if you have trouble or more complications the other eay around ...
1/3 vol Naphtha at 60 °C will catch up 70 - 80 % of the DMT in the first pull if waiting for 10 minutes or longer, I would even say 30 to be sure - I mean ... you dont have to do anything within that time
The 2nd pull should catch additional 20 % and the 3rd pull only traces ... but better do a 4th pull just to be sure always, if using this method.
Don't know if this post could have been shorter with the same message ... maybe improve on that :?
Also always heat your Naphtha-Soup-Mixture, if you heat it to 60 °C (if using 60-80 °C boiling Naphtha) you can get all the actives out with just 3 pulls - when you let the soup and the naphtha sit for 10 minutes + each pull.
That's a way I would highly suggest over the regular *stirr without forming emulsions for 30 seconds* thing.
1. Reduce your soup from the cooking by 50 % (or even 75 % - easy when dropping in a pan, heating to 90 °C+ and putting a fan beneath)
2. put it in a pot or something that is much more tall than a pan and heat to 60 °C
3. Throw in 1/3 vol Naphtha compared to the volume soup (it's high, but therefore I would suggest reduce your soup)
4. wait 10 minutes, decant Naphtha (you dont have to be totally accurate to get all Naphtha out as you do multiple pulls)
5. repeat 3.+4. for two more times
Then combine all Naphtha pulls and make sure to not have any dark soup at the bottom, then reduce it like: for 100 g Bark = 50 - 100 ml Naphtha - and then place into Freezer.
By heating it up to 60 °C (if your Naphtha starts boiling above 60) allows a much higher concentration of DMT. Therefore the uptake from water towards Naphtha will be much higher in the same time window. And by just letting it sit you will completely avoid any emulsion EVER. Your Naphtha will be perfectly clean upon decanting. It's just too easy and efficient not to do it this way ... at least if you have trouble or more complications the other eay around ...
1/3 vol Naphtha at 60 °C will catch up 70 - 80 % of the DMT in the first pull if waiting for 10 minutes or longer, I would even say 30 to be sure - I mean ... you dont have to do anything within that time
The 2nd pull should catch additional 20 % and the 3rd pull only traces ... but better do a 4th pull just to be sure always, if using this method.
Don't know if this post could have been shorter with the same message ... maybe improve on that :?
Green Walker
Rising Star
Heyo! So, I've worked with caapi and ACRB many times in the form of ayahuasca, but am new to extractions, and would like to learn more, so aside from all the brilliant information available through the nexus, I wanted to ask -
Is it possible to obtain an active full spectrum extract of A. confusa via making a tincture of it in Everclear, and then evaporating the liquid? I attempted this and was left with a dark red crystalline substance, that when vaporized felt very vaguely tryptamine, but nowhere near other spice. Are there similarly simple methods of extraction such as this, or simply on the same basis with other steps?
Thank you
Is it possible to obtain an active full spectrum extract of A. confusa via making a tincture of it in Everclear, and then evaporating the liquid? I attempted this and was left with a dark red crystalline substance, that when vaporized felt very vaguely tryptamine, but nowhere near other spice. Are there similarly simple methods of extraction such as this, or simply on the same basis with other steps?
Thank you
Time Traveler
Rising Star
Help! I'm getting sticky white goo from ACRB. I tried smoking 30mg, and then 47mg, and got very little out of it.
I used the q21q21 tek, and pulled with heptane.
What can I do with this stuff? I have about 800 mg.
Thank you for your help.
I used the q21q21 tek, and pulled with heptane.
What can I do with this stuff? I have about 800 mg.
Thank you for your help.
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
Sounds like you're trying to smoke a DMT salt, which isn't going to be very successful as you've surely noticed.Green Walker said:Heyo! So, I've worked with caapi and ACRB many times in the form of ayahuasca, but am new to extractions, and would like to learn more, so aside from all the brilliant information available through the nexus, I wanted to ask -
Is it possible to obtain an active full spectrum extract of A. confusa via making a tincture of it in Everclear, and then evaporating the liquid? I attempted this and was left with a dark red crystalline substance, that when vaporized felt very vaguely tryptamine, but nowhere near other spice. Are there similarly simple methods of extraction such as this, or simply on the same basis with other steps?
Thank you
To make smokeable - if crude - freebase, add a base (such as sodium carbonate solution) to your extract, allow it to dry out thoroughly, and pull it again. Evaporation of this should yield a smokeable product. Have a read through this.
You might want to consider saving some of your original crystalline extract so that it could be sent for analysis.
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
Adding NaOH raises the pH, mimosa bark lowers it.suit13 said: