psilocybin
Rising Star
Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
-
Members of the previous forum can retrieve their temporary password here, (login and check your PM).
official extraction help thread
- Thread starter psilocybin
- Start date
-
- Tags
- dmt
Zippo lighter fluid is Naptha, isn't it? You can put Naptha in your Zippo. That's what I use as a "cover story" when buying it.
I use Xylene on a STB all the time. I use Naptha for 3-4 pulls since it's less nasty and then do a pull or two with Xylene. Doing a STB on ACRB, I use strictly Xylene since NMT is not very soluble in Naptha. (I think, open to discussion on that one)
I use Xylene on a STB all the time. I use Naptha for 3-4 pulls since it's less nasty and then do a pull or two with Xylene. Doing a STB on ACRB, I use strictly Xylene since NMT is not very soluble in Naptha. (I think, open to discussion on that one)
DK_one
Established member
Serious precipitation problems:
I checked the precipitation section in the manual again, just to be sure. After decanting and turning the tank upside down, I initially had some small clumps of pellets that were also stuck to the glass. A few minutes later, after I went for a quick smoke, everything was suddenly gone except for a few drops of liquid in a few spots where the pellets had been.
What could that be? Wrong naptha, not enough material, or something else?
The DCM pull, on the other hand (I pulled 50% with DCM and the other 50% with naptha), produced a clear yellow goo. Acacia C. Was the material btw
Any explanations?
I constantly get this problem, why ended up evaporating.
Also I tried different types of Naptha already
I checked the precipitation section in the manual again, just to be sure. After decanting and turning the tank upside down, I initially had some small clumps of pellets that were also stuck to the glass. A few minutes later, after I went for a quick smoke, everything was suddenly gone except for a few drops of liquid in a few spots where the pellets had been.
What could that be? Wrong naptha, not enough material, or something else?
The DCM pull, on the other hand (I pulled 50% with DCM and the other 50% with naptha), produced a clear yellow goo. Acacia C. Was the material btw
Any explanations?
I constantly get this problem, why ended up evaporating.
Also I tried different types of Naptha already
DK_one
Established member
fractals4life
Titanium Teammate
This sounds like ice formed around some small specks of DMT which then melted (the ice, not the dmt), if you let all the water evaporate you likely find the DMT specks still there and possibly a thin transparent layer over the floor of the dish which can be scraped up.
Usually a low precipitation yield like this is because naphtha layer was not a concentrated enough solution of DMT to cause much to precipitate out when chilled.
The reasons for this could be: too much naphtha, or too little DMT in the bark, or not enough chance was given for the DMT to pass from suspension in the soup to solution in the naphtha.
DK_one
Established member
Ok got.
I working in very small source material vs liquids minimum to make it handleable.
I want to have like a got used to all steps state before I go full in. Sure there are reasons like this I guess that speaks against my decision, but for me it is the way I chose.
A) Have a almost neon yellow acacia c goo slime like extract. Wanted to seperate, but I rethink to not to. Is it possibility to put it into a "air tight" what ever with bags of silicate Geld to dry out, or is it not possible to dry it out?
B) what's best to clean a Pipette and glases before extraction?
Specially Pipette I got problems getting good results. I always use IPA right before use, but the initial clean after use? Normal dish cleaner and stuff?
I working in very small source material vs liquids minimum to make it handleable.
I want to have like a got used to all steps state before I go full in. Sure there are reasons like this I guess that speaks against my decision, but for me it is the way I chose.
A) Have a almost neon yellow acacia c goo slime like extract. Wanted to seperate, but I rethink to not to. Is it possibility to put it into a "air tight" what ever with bags of silicate Geld to dry out, or is it not possible to dry it out?
B) what's best to clean a Pipette and glases before extraction?
Specially Pipette I got problems getting good results. I always use IPA right before use, but the initial clean after use? Normal dish cleaner and stuff?
Last edited:
DK_one
Established member
Sorry for DBL post, but ran into actual problem.
Have a Stb soup highly naoh loaded several days, so wanted to pull with Naptha.
Have it weather bath in 200ml separated Glases and put ~25ml NPS a glas....
The nps layer is rly thin and when I try to Pipette the soup instantly break through...
Quitted for today, will try tomorrow again. Maby will use the seoeratory funnel which wanted to avoid since the nps will sit on top and loss of temperature of the Naptha....
Any hints?
Maybe not best but only idea I got is use to much of Naptha? So I can @ least pull something without contamination
Else I got to accept ending up a/b DCM in future. Got a tremor in hands so it is really not an easy task.
Have a Stb soup highly naoh loaded several days, so wanted to pull with Naptha.
Have it weather bath in 200ml separated Glases and put ~25ml NPS a glas....
The nps layer is rly thin and when I try to Pipette the soup instantly break through...
Quitted for today, will try tomorrow again. Maby will use the seoeratory funnel which wanted to avoid since the nps will sit on top and loss of temperature of the Naptha....
Any hints?
Maybe not best but only idea I got is use to much of Naptha? So I can @ least pull something without contamination
Else I got to accept ending up a/b DCM in future. Got a tremor in hands so it is really not an easy task.
fractals4life
Titanium Teammate
Pipette the naphtha into something tall and thin, like a measuring cylinder, with a layer of water already in it. Then any soup you pick up will get diluted into the bottom water layer and you should be able to pipette most of the naphtha out and into your precipitation dish afterwards thanks to the vessel being tall and thin (wash your pipette inbetween ).
Add a pinch of something alkaline like sodium carbonate to the water to prevent any dmt dissolving back into it due to slight acidity from dissolved CO2 etc.
Keep the water warm so that dmt doesn't precipitate out from being chilled when it hits the water.
The above process is known as water washing you NPS and is a good idea anyway, to remove any micro droplets of lye soup that are suspended in the naphtha.
If you are using a conical flask for your soup you can also just add more water so the layer ends up in the narrow part of the flask and so gets thicker.
Add a pinch of something alkaline like sodium carbonate to the water to prevent any dmt dissolving back into it due to slight acidity from dissolved CO2 etc.
Keep the water warm so that dmt doesn't precipitate out from being chilled when it hits the water.
The above process is known as water washing you NPS and is a good idea anyway, to remove any micro droplets of lye soup that are suspended in the naphtha.
If you are using a conical flask for your soup you can also just add more water so the layer ends up in the narrow part of the flask and so gets thicker.
DK_one
Established member
Ok wow big thanks and a lot of new room to move for me 
Will go for it tomorrow!
Because it's relevant to the topic. I occasionally got tiny drops of soup in my pipette when pipetting, especially when the NPS layer was finished (a/b). Then I usually used a second glass tray and pipetted into it. I could then cleanly pipette the NPS out of this second tray, as the base soup somehow stuck to the glass and wasn't absorbed. Is this a viable option, or is it a bad idea since I'd have to expect invisible traces?
One more Q:
When soup & Naptha are 'warm' result Naptha over loaded with product
The product will not crash out or go back to soup or even water with higher pH then the pka as long as the naptha sits on top of it?
Will go for it tomorrow!
Because it's relevant to the topic. I occasionally got tiny drops of soup in my pipette when pipetting, especially when the NPS layer was finished (a/b). Then I usually used a second glass tray and pipetted into it. I could then cleanly pipette the NPS out of this second tray, as the base soup somehow stuck to the glass and wasn't absorbed. Is this a viable option, or is it a bad idea since I'd have to expect invisible traces?
One more Q:
When soup & Naptha are 'warm' result Naptha over loaded with product
The product will not crash out or go back to soup or even water with higher pH then the pka as long as the naptha sits on top of it?
Last edited:
yatyas314
Established member
I have an extraction going and I did the exact same method I did last tie with the exact same ingredients and the 1st pull was underwhelming. Thinking of variables the only change was that the ambient temp in my garage is about 10 degrees cooler than the last time I extracted. this is the third time I reused the same NPS. All ideas are welcome, as of now I plan on doing a hot water bath for ~4 hours and then mixing and when it settles again do the pulls with the NPS being warm.
Y
Y
I'm assuming you mean 10 degree Fahrenheit?
I guess Celsius would be a drastic drop, but then again idk where you are.
Anyway, I'd try to transfer the solvent quicker if anything.
It's interesting, because I don't worry about heat anymore. I do a lot of pulls cool. But, I also tumble my jars around 400 times (40 tumbles x 10 times after separation). I've found it takes me longer to get the sacred goodies, but I have to do less pulls overall and use less solvent overall.
One love
fractals4life
Titanium Teammate
DMT freebase isn't soluble in water, so if the NPS gets too cold and becomes oversaturated then you may get some DMT freebase crashing out and becoming suspended in the water. But you should be able to retrieve this by adding more naphtha or warming it back up and agitating, just as happens when pulling the DMT from the soup in the first place, only more visibly.
The first sentence led to reminiscing on this thread.
Thread 'DMT freebase is water soluble' DMT freebase is water soluble
One love
DK_one
Established member
Hey,
Used an erlen now to up what helped a lot
The nps is pretty fawn in color.
Sadly I already saw some contamination
I was planning on go on with water wash tomorrow because i got a light flue and not so motivated.
I would warm up the nps tomorrow and prep a ph 12? Water in a Erlenmeyer flask to have an easy pickup from that.
Sounds ok? Or would I do a failure at a point I am not aware?
Used an erlen now to up what helped a lot
The nps is pretty fawn in color.
Sadly I already saw some contamination
I was planning on go on with water wash tomorrow because i got a light flue and not so motivated.
I would warm up the nps tomorrow and prep a ph 12? Water in a Erlenmeyer flask to have an easy pickup from that.
Sounds ok? Or would I do a failure at a point I am not aware?
yatyas314
Established member
Correct 10 Degrees F.
Not sure what you meant. I have reused the NPS several times, put some fresh VM&P in while the reused stuff is freezing.- How often to you reuse NPS ?
Ah, 5.555…°C
What, like base soup droplets? Washing with a little sodium carbonate solution would take care of that.
Ah, 5.555…°C
What, like base soup droplets? Washing with a little sodium carbonate solution would take care of that.
My bad friend. I meant after you heat your solvent in the water bath, transfer it into the soup as fast as you can in order to prevent too much loss of heat from the colder ambient temp. These solvents try to reach an equilibrium in their given environment pretty quickly to my understanding.
One love
DK_one
Established member
A micro droplet sit at bottom.
Almost not visible with eye
So I did it, and was alot easier and well working then I worried. Thanks for the hint!
Rly had worries that were unnecessary!
For everyone not in USA I assume, switching to high grade petroleum Benzin bought in lab supplier does a wonder in handling!
It is not evaping by heating to 40°C or more and the emulsion is fading like 5x faster... Incredible difference!
Almost not visible with eye
So I did it, and was alot easier and well working then I worried. Thanks for the hint!
Rly had worries that were unnecessary!
For everyone not in USA I assume, switching to high grade petroleum Benzin bought in lab supplier does a wonder in handling!
It is not evaping by heating to 40°C or more and the emulsion is fading like 5x faster... Incredible difference!
Last edited:
I have switched up how I extract and don't worry as much about heating my soup or my solvent. Now, I pour my solvent in a tumble, allow to separate, and the tumble, ad until I'm donem.
How many tumbles do you think is effective? I think I am over doing it with 40 tumbles x 10.
One love
How many tumbles do you think is effective? I think I am over doing it with 40 tumbles x 10.
One love