The only problems I have been having lately have related to purely physical considerations. I don't have a good method of separating layers (all of the basters and droppers I have used do not work well; also, how do you employ a separatory funnel if the basic layer clings to the sides of the container?) and I was wondering why exactly you need to do multiple pulls of solvent. Wouldn't using more solvent simply pull more alkaloids out, so that you could do one pull and be done with it?
Hey man,
I use and
love my separatory funnel quite a lot!!!
I don't know how you chaps using basters and such, have any hair left on your heads!
I wouldn't want to try & do an extraction without one!!
Mine is only a 500ml Sep Funnel, but I prefer to keep my extractions down to a smaller size anyway, I'm only extracting 100g to 150g of MHRB at a time, so it has never been
too small for me.
BTW, I got the Sep Funnel on Ebay for a little under $40 with shipping. One can pretty much obtain any lab glass one might need on Ebay,
anonymously, with no questions asked. ...And I think, usually cheaper too!!
how do you employ a separatory funnel if the basic layer clings to the sides of the container?
First, the higher the pH, the less "sticky" it will be. Also less emulsions with higher pH.
Other than that little tid-bit, I wait for the layers to separate completely, then
very slowly let the bottom layer pour out into a beaker or something. You don't just open the stopcock & let the bottom layer rush out, you need to open it just a little, so the liquid comes out slowly & smoothly. I adjust the speed of the flow, based on how much the base layer (bottom) is sticking to the sides as the level drops, if you do it slower, the less it sticks.
Once the majority of the base layer has been drained and there is just a few little balls of base solution left in the funnel with the Naptha, I take the funnel out of the stand and swirl the Naptha around in the funnel very fast. This creates a small whirlpool effect, which will cause the base solution stuck to the sides & such, to coagulate together. I then let it sit for a few minutes and slowly drain that little bit of base solution out, then repeat it again & again until no more base solution is coagulating together when I swirl. Really making sure there is no base solution left in the Naptha on the last of the three pulls.
Also, as the solutions are separating into their polar layers & any emulations are going away, holding the funnel under hot water helps to keep the base solution from sticking in the first place. It also helps to get rid of any emulations faster and of course, keeping the liquids hot during this entire process propagates the migration of DMT from the bark solution into the Naptha.
and I was wondering why exactly you need to do multiple pulls of solvent.
As far as needing to do all three solvent pulls goes, while I was finishing up the
first Naptha pull on a recent extraction, I accidentally spilled my bark solution all over the counter top and was left with only the one Naptha pull still sitting in the Sep Funnel.
So I did the rest of the tek on just that first pulls worth of Naptha.
Much to my surprise, my yield was not that much smaller in the end!!!
I usually get around .8mg to 1g of beautiful,
clear-to-white shards of spice from 100 to 150 grams of
powdered MHRB. Doing three acid soaks, three Naptha pulls (
all the defatting & washing steps etc..) and freeze precipitating the DMT out of the solvent in the end.
This time, doing only one solvent pull, I still ended up with right around .7mg of
off-white spice!!! It wasn't as clean as what I normally yield but it was just as effective and it wasn't dirty yellow spice or anything like that, just not my regular
clear shards.
I still normally do all three recommended pulls, but if your wanting to be lazy, or quick about things, you can get away with a large percentage of the spice with just the
ONE pull.
In my experience,
well over 50% of the DMT in the bark comes out during pull #1!!
Pulls 2 & 3 are there more for "clean up", making sure as much of the DMT is retrieved as possible.
One last thing, if this "lab" your thinking about putting together is going to be mainly for extracting plant "
spices", you may want to think about keeping it rather small and "undetectable".
I my experience, a modern day "
urban-shaman" can pretty much do anything he or she may need to do, this side of
synthesizing, with just a few basic lab pieces.
Not that my setup is perfect, or "
ideal" by anyone else's standards, but here is a list of the essential pieces I'm using. I've always been able to do everything I've needed to do with just these few lab items, that cost me around $300-$400 total on Ebay. I did not buy them all at once.
1) Seperatory Funnel (with a stand!) - (mine is a small one, only 500ml)
2) Buchner Funnel/Filtering Setup - (**explained below)
3) Some graduated (milliliters marked) Beakers - (I have two 1000ml beakers, four 50ml beakers & a box of ten 500ml beakers, only 8 of them are left. Get more beakers than you need, you will break a few)
4) Two 1000ml Flasks - (I prefer these over beakers, for the acid soak step)
5) Digital pH Meter - (do not skimp on this one, worth every penny!! pH strips just don't work nearly as well)
6) A Thermometer or two - (I use an analog espresso thermometer to monitor the temp of my heat bath & a digital espresso thermometer to spot check the various liquids throughout the process)
7) Turkey Baster - (preferably glass, but these are becoming quite hard to find!)
A box of Plastic Wrap and various sizes of Rubber Bands
(**)
My "Buchner Funnel/Filtering Setup" consists of a
"Buchner funnel",
which is a one piece, ceramic filtering funnel, with a "cup" for the top half, that has holes in the floor of the cup where you would place a "filter paper".
The funnel is placed into the top of a "vacuum flask" and the liquid is poured into the top of the funnel. You then use a hand operated "vacuum pump" to suck the air out of the flask, which creates a vacuum inside of the flask, pulling the liquid in the funnel above, through the filter paper, cleaning the liquid, or collecting a solid out of the liquid.
I use a 110mm Buchner funnel to filter the bark out of the solution during the acid soaking step.
I also use a much smaller, 70mm Buchner funnel to collect the DMT crystals from the Naptha after freeze precipitating. After all of the Naptha has been sucked through the filter, I continue pumping the vacuum for about a minute or so, which helps to dry out the DMT crystals and the now wet filter paper before carefully taking the paper out of the funnel to let it dry completely & scraping the DMT off of the filter paper and into storage.
I'm using the same 500ml vacuum flask for both of these filtering steps.
I got the entire Buchner filtering setup on Ebay for $50-$60.
It included everything necessary to start using it.
It came with:
500ml Vacuum Flask, with the correct type of stopper
110mm Buchner Funnel
Box of Filter papers
& the Hand Operated Vacuum Pump with connection hose
I later bought the 70mm Buchner funnel and filter papers.
I'd like to buy a 1000ml vacuum flask in the near future to help make filtering the acid soak much quicker but its not necessary, it would just be a bit quicker.
The Vacuum Pump that came with it was kind of cheap & flimsy, it ended up breaking during the second extraction I used it on. So I replaced it with a much better one that cost me around $60 for the Vacuum Pump alone. So be careful with the cheaper ones, you don't need much more than 8 to 12 pumps anyway, even with a vacuum you still have to wait a little while for everything to drain through. I broke mine by create too strong of a vacuum, trying to speed up the filtering process. Sometimes the paper will break if you create too strong a vacuum, too early as well.
All of these pieces fit into just 2 medium sized drawers, out of site & out of mind.
Hope something in all of this info helps you out my friend!!
WS