Simple wash Tek?

[jbudman]

Hey guys, I have a few questions for ya! First, I was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction to find a tek to clean my Acacia DMT extract. I have done a lot of reading on extractions for the past few years, but have never actually done the extraction myself. I have some DMT that was pulled from Acacia, a few different batches, some is powdery/waxy, and some is more chunky/waxy. The dosage for it is about 50mg for a fairly light trip with a strong body high, and some slight visual fuckery, or 70+mg for a more visual and full experience. Does this dosage sound right to those of you who have done your own acacia extractions? I know that the Acacia extracts are a bit weaker than the MHRB extracts because of the NMT content, but is it normal for 50mg to be a fairly light trip? I'm confident with my vaping technique, and have had lots and lots of experiences with DMT. Someone told me that I could do a simple ammonia or ISO wash on my DMT to clean it up and make it more potent but I haven't been able to find much information on the procedure for cleaning my extract. Would cleaning it result in a product similar in strength to the DMT I have tried from MHRB where 20-30mg was a full experience.

Thank you all for your help, happy holidays :]

 

[Tranzcentral]

Hi JB, i'd say just find a tek that suits you and go from there.

You'll have to de-fat your extraction, and when you have done your pulls, wash your pull with a little sodium carbonate in distilled water. That will remove any traces of Lye, etc, then do a final wash with just distilled H20 to remove the sodium carbonate.

 

[Entheogenerator]

That sounds like you have a pretty weak extract to be quite frank... The non-crystalline acacia confusa extracts that I have come across only required about 25-30mg vaporized to achieve effects comparable to about 20mg DMT crystal. If I were you, I would definitely clean it up a bit.

An ammonia wash might remove some of the impurities, but probably not all of them. I have also heard of people losing a lot of DMT for some reason when attempting an ammonia wash. The ammonia wash is really viewed as an outdated procedure that has been replaced by more effective methods these days. DMT freebase is highly soluble in isopropyl alcohol, so trying to wash the product with IPA won't work very well. Unfortunately if you really want to clean it up to a high-purity product, the process may not be all that simple. But you do have a couple of options.

You could recrystallize it with a nonpolar solvent. VM&P naphtha will work for this, but I have found heptane to be a better option. Recrystallization basically just means dissolving your product in a minimal amount of hot nonpolar solvent (be sure to follow all recommendations regarding safe heating of highly flammable materials!!!), and allow the temperature of the solution to drop very slowly (let it sit at room temperature for an hour or so, then put it in the fridge for a couple hours). The impurities will drop out of the solution and sit on the bottom of the glass while most of the DMT remains in the solvent. Then just pour the DMT-containing solvent into a new vessel and freeze-precipitate.

Another method I would recommend would be to essentially perform a mini A/B extraction on your product. Basically you would dissolve your extract in a small volume of acidic aqueous solution, defat with nonpolar solvent, basify, pull with nonpolar solvent, wash with sodium carbonate solution then with distilled water, and freeze-precipitate or evaporate. This method might be more effective at removing impurities without losing much DMT, but obviously it requires more time and effort.

If one or both of those didn't work for some reason, or you are fairly certain that your extract contains high amounts of NMT, you could try the procedure described in this tek to seperate DMT from NMT.

If you were to follow one of these methods to clean your product up, you could very easily yield reasonably pure DMT, every bit as strong as MHRB-spice.

Welcome to The Nexus, jbudman! I hope you find a method that will work for you to get that spice nice and clean!

 

[jbudman]

Thanks for the replies!
So doing a recrystallization with Naptha seems to be the answer to my question of achieving spice closer to the potency of the MHRB spice I have enjoyed in the past.
I will also check out the thread about separating the DMT, and NMT. I am fairly certain that some of this spice has high NMT content, though I only speak from experience. The reason I believe this stuff has a bit of NMT is because it is a bit weaker than the spice I have tried from MHRB, the trip is also a little bit smoother around the edges, more relaxed feeling, and I can have a pretty strong trip with few visuals as compared to the MHRB spice where 20mg was always an intense and visual experience. With this acacia spice, I can do 20-30mg and still get the intense body high that accompanies DMT, but it's not until I get over 50mg that it gets visual.

 

[Entheogenerator]

Well good luck with the recrystallizing, I hope it works for you. I haven't tried using the re-x process for removing NMT from a full spectrum extract, so I can't say from experience that it will work. But I have noticed a few things while experimenting with A. confusa extractions that lead me to believe NMT is less soluble in VM&P naphtha/heptane than DMT, so I would guess it will probably work.

 

[calyx420]

I too am at this point in the acacia process i feel like when i use mhrb nn-dmt it was way more visual but i also think if i clean this acacia dmt i might like it way more because of the feeling in the body high....

 

[blue.magic]

Here is one thing I found on .htm]Rhodium's archive on Erowid. This is about DMT synthesis, but the workup (extraction of product from reaction mixture) includes a section about removing NMT:

If you're worried about NMT/T contaminating your product just do the workup this way;

Basify the aq. reaction mix to 13-14 with NaOH. Extract repeatedly with DCM. Rotovap off the DCM and add Petroleum Ether, heat to a boil and decant the Pet. Ether from any undissolved material. Cool the Pet. Ether in the freezer and collect any precipitated solids. This will remove any unreacted tryptamine. To remove NMT you can react this mixture with acetic anhydride and seperate. I know that's quite a hassle but it's a good way to cover all the bases as far as purity is concerned.

I think you can substitute naphtha or heptane for petroleum ether and what follows is a freeze precipitation.

The next part is reacting the crystalline mass with acetic anhydride. I have no idea how that might work, maybe it converts DMT to acetate, but not NMT? Or vice versa?

I wonder if glacial acetic acid can be substitued for acetic anhydride (which is hard to obtain and often controlled, as it is used in manufacture of heroin) but glacial acetic acid is a different compound than the anhydride and probably will dissolve both DMT and NMT.

Any ideas how the above workup works?

 

[downwardsfromzero]

It's possible to use aspirin as a substitute acetylating agent, or you can separate NMT as a 'self-carbamate' by using carbon dioxide. Threads on these topics exist here which can be found by searching something like "separating NMT".

The next part is reacting the crystalline mass with acetic anhydride. I have no idea how that might work, maybe it converts DMT to acetate, but not NMT? Or vice versa?

This process relies on the difference in reactivity at the amine nitrogen atom between NMT and DMT. DMT is a tertiary amine - i.e. with three substituents; NMT is a secondary amine so besides having two alkyl substituents there is a hydrogen atom which can be replaced by an acetyl group from one half of the acetic anhydride molecule.

The other half of the acetic anhydride molecule - including the oxygen atom in the middle - forms an acetate anion which, along with the proton from the hydrogen atom from the NMT, can react with any spare DMT to form DMT acetate. The main thing is that this spare proton can be mopped up by the DMT to form a cationic species; the acetate anion just happens to be there from the reaction in question but could easily enough be replaced by any other stable anion in the right circumstances.

I'll add a reaction schematic for this in a bit, when I've access to my molecular drawing software.

 

[downwardsfromzero]

Here it is: