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The direct e-mesh thread.

Migrated topic.
another little question for all the users of this method.

When do you change your mesh ? After how many hits ? When the mesh becomes all black ?

Cheers!
 
After about 6 hits or so I take a cotton swab and alcohol and clean the mesh. Then I pulse it a few times at a high wattage to get it red hot, this burns it clean. I’ll basically keep rolling like this till it gives up. I don’t see a need to change it if it’s working.
 
And The mesh don't turn black of residue, since You never burn everything. Just smooth vapor. The mesh can be used many times and are easy to clean.
 
Hi!

Thanks for this wonderful tek, first of all.

I’ve got a problem, as I wrote in Failed first experience + possible bad extraction? - FAQ - All your basic questions and answers - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus :

Plus the temperature (220°C, as recommended for steel mesh) might’ve been too high, since there was splashed DMT on the walls of the vaporizer chamber… So it looked as if it boiled, and started splashing around.

I’ll try with DMT’s vaporization temperature the next time, 165°C.
Click to expand...

The setup I’m using is:

• Vaporesso GEN 220W
• smart temperature control (it recognized the SS316 mesh on first run)
• WoToFo Profile RDA
• VandyVape SS316L mesh (granularity: 200)
• initial melt temperature set to 100°C
• vaporization temperature set to 220°C

Perhaps TC in this one is more (or less?) exact, and I should set vape temperature to 165°?

Also I noticed that if I set T=100°, and press the button for longer than 0.5 s, it starts to vaporize…
 
Steffen335 said:
Hi!

Thanks for this wonderful tek, first of all.

I’ve got a problem, as I wrote in Failed first experience + possible bad extraction? - FAQ - All your basic questions and answers - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus :

Plus the temperature (220°C, as recommended for steel mesh) might’ve been too high, since there was splashed DMT on the walls of the vaporizer chamber… So it looked as if it boiled, and started splashing around.

I’ll try with DMT’s vaporization temperature the next time, 165°C.
Click to expand...

The setup I’m using is:

• Vaporesso GEN 220W
• smart temperature control (it recognized the SS316 mesh on first run)
• WoToFo Profile RDA
• VandyVape SS316 mesh (granularity: 200)
• initial melt temperature set to 100°C
• vaporization temperature set to 220°C

Perhaps TC in this one is more (or less?) exact, and I should set vape temperature to 165°?

Also I noticed that if I set T=100°, and press the button for longer than 0.5 s, it starts to vaporize…
Click to expand...

Hi

Read your post. At 33 mg you should have blasted off pretty hard. I advice you not to increase the dose before you have perfected the setup.

220 degrees is a bit high. Try 180-200 C.

Each setup can vary, you need to experiment with the temperature. If you hold the fire button, the mesh should glow faintly red in a dark room.

What kind of mesh do you have?
What resistance?
Wattage?
Airflow? Should be half open.
How do you inhale? For how long and how long do you hold your breath?

Blessings
 
Thank you!


Would that be sufficient?


51D2rmFBO7L._AC_.jpg
 
skoobysnax said:
Thank you for this. Can't wait for a wiki entry to evolve out of this.
Click to expand...

I'll post a summary of this thread and my experiences, including a how-to with images in the vaping/smoking section in a few days.

Hopefully more people will try this secure and effective method for vaping crystals.

Blessings
 
Anyone having issues with temp mode just run wattage mode. I find 18w a good starting point. Start with about 16w in a dark room and hit your fire button...... keep increasing wattage till the mesh glows very faint orange. Good to go!
 
Propello said:
The mesh rda method:

Equipment:
Esig mod
Wotofo profile mesh rda
Vandyvape ss316 mesh

Loaded 30 mg on The mesh, Evenly spredd, see image.
Mod set at 16w. Mesh coil at 0.1 ohm.
Rda vent holes half open.

Clicked The fire button a few times to liquify the dmt.

The first hit was to low wattage. Raised it to 23w while holding my breath. The second toke i could feel stronger vapor, and BANG, broke through straight to the elf domain. Very very impressed. This is so far The ONLY setup that could match The gvg so far.

I think it is possible to breaktrough in one hit with this device.
No smell, no burnt taste, easy to clean, no lighter.

Thx for The idea aum shanti, this is IT! So easy to administrate if You have a mesh esig dripper. The gvg Will be less used from now on, that's for sure.
Click to expand...
So i decided to order the RDA. My mod is an eleaf pico, i found a 510 base extension on e bay to raise it up over the battery cap. Hoping this works...
 
Hi GRVDIGR! That's not a bad idea! I suppose it would work well.


A disadvantage with wattage mode is that different drawing techniques will need different wattage. Hard draws would need more power than slow ones.

In my humble opinion, at optimal settings using temperature control, it would not matter whatever drawing method being used, the wattage will adjust accordingly to the inhaling techniques used, with constant temperature. Given that the temperature settings are correct, those who draw hard will get higher wattage and a dense vapor, while those who draw slowly will also get a dense vapor at lower wattage, and not burn the spice.

But by all means, wattage mode is definitively an alternative for those who have trouble finding the optimal settings in temperature control mode. It will still be a one hit wonder 👌.

Blessings
 
Hi skoobysnax - it will work if the extension is as high as the battery cap.
Hope it fits :)

Blessings
 
Propello said:
Read your post. At 33 mg you should have blasted off pretty hard. I advice you not to increase the dose before you have perfected the setup.

220 degrees is a bit high. Try 180-200 C.

Each setup can vary, you need to experiment with the temperature. If you hold the fire button, the mesh should glow faintly red in a dark room.

What kind of mesh do you have?
What resistance?
Wattage?
Airflow? Should be half open.
How do you inhale? For how long and how long do you hold your breath?
Click to expand...

Hi, Propello! Thank you for the reply!

I used Smart Temperature Control (with the device recognizing the mesh, and setting wattage and TCR automatically), but that was a mistake. The settings that were used then were:

• DMT: ~33 mg
• mod: Vaporesso GEN 220W
• RDA: WoToFo Profile
• mesh: VandyVape SS316L, granularity: 200
• resistance: 0.28 Ω
• wattage: 75 W (auto-selected by the device)
• TCR: 105 (auto-selected by the device)
• temperature: 220°C
• airflow: half-open
• inhalation: ~5 seconds, via a food-safe silicone hose improvised drip-tip, until the smoke was clear/transparent — so everything got vaporized -and- boiled/splashed inside the chamber (quite a lot of splashing…).

Today I tried on manual settings:

• DMT: 30 mg (this time measured confidently)
• same mesh, mod, RDA, resistance, airflow
• wattage: 30 W
• TCR: 105
• temperature: 200°C
• inhalation: took much longer, I’d say almost 10 seconds, the air wasn't clear/transparent at the end, but I just couldn’t inhale anymore. I also wanted to clear my respiratory tract with some fresh air, and push DMT all the way down to the lungs, but I just had no space left for that… I tried to hold it but finally coughed, unfortunately too early, and quite a lot of white vapor got out. Also there were some post-boiling splashes in the chamber, but much much less than the previous time.

This second experience was much stronger than the first one, but, again, I saw no conscious beings, only shapes, spaces, some labyrinth… So, I guess, this still was the waiting room. But very magical, nevertheless.

Also, after pressing the button in a dark room, the mesh turns red, for a brief moment, and then it stays black.

If I tweak TCR to 240, as recommended in some posts here, it stays constantly red, even in daylight.

I don’t know then. Should I find wattage/TCR settings for which it would glow *constantly* in faint red, in a dark room? That would be it? Or should it pulsate?

Propello, thank you again for all the help. ♥

—————————————————————

P.S. Or maybe I should open the airflow fully and draw harder/faster?
 
If you can get temp mode working correctly it’s the way to go for sure..... but..... I’ve used some devices that temp mode is so temperamental I have up. Try wattage mode and see how you like it.
 
Increase wattage to 50.
The mesh should glow faintly red in a dark room, the mesh should pulse red, not only in the beginning.

Or try GRVDIGR's advice.

The 150 mesh is better than the 200, thicker and easier to load as well. The mesh might be the cause of splashing. Never had that problem myself with 150 or 100 mesh.

If you don't empty the spice in one draw, take another hit 🚀
 
Propello said:
Increase wattage to 50.
The mesh should glow faintly red in a dark room, the mesh should pulse red, not only in the beginning.

The 150 mesh is better than the 200, thicker and easier to load as well. The mesh might be the cause of splashing. Never had that problem myself with 150 or 100 mesh.
Click to expand...
Great, thank you for the details! =) The shop only had 200, unfortunately, but I'll order the 150 one then.

Propello said:
If you don't empty the spice in one draw, take another hit 🚀
Click to expand...
Okay. It would be optimal (easier) to get it all in one hit, if not for me, then for friends. =)

GRVDIGR said:
If you can get temp mode working correctly it’s the way to go for sure...
Click to expand...
I see, def. worth trying then. =) But TC mode seems easier to use… after getting it right, that is. I'll try to find the proper/exact TCR using a pyrometer, tomorrow.

Thank you all once more. ♥
 
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