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The direct e-mesh thread.

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Hello everyone,

Thank you for sharing all of your tries/experiments. It's great to be able to read all that... but it's also a bit confusing! I almost had some dizziness as I was going through the thread. I was ready to order a set up and then got so lost that I stepped back.

I may not have read/understood everything, but I'd like to ask what I think are simple questions:

- how good/expensive a mod has to be? Is there a minimum quality mod necessary? Like some specific tech?

- aum shanty mentioned multiple times a "handling difficulty". What is it? Spreading the spice on the mesh? The way one needs to hold the device while vaping?

- do you melt the spice in "open air" and then "close" when ready to inhale? (like on the video :
) ; is this why there's always a talk about two different temperatures?

- is a drip tip mandatory?

thank you!
 
Nice to see this tread alive and kicking with Propello doing Q&A!

I've updated my RDA using a steel rod instead of the original cap. The rod is 7 cm long and has a 22 mm outer diameter. It slides inside the bottom cylinder. I used the o-ring which came with the vandyvape kit to close of the air. I created two air gaps. Turning the rod adjusts the opening amount just as with the original cap. I used a short PVC pipe as mouth piece. The air is closed with some layers of teflon tape.

This setup enables longer mesh lengths. Mine is 7 cm long (fully stretched out). When inserted it sticks out around 2.7 cm. This wouldn't fit in the original cap. I will be loading spice horizontally as Aum originally mentioned. Much larger surface area and no drip. Can't wait to try.

Curious about the e-mesh buckets which sbc1 mentions. Have you tested it and would we be able to buy this?

My current setup:
Joytech eVic VTwo Mini 75W
VandyVape Mesh RDA
VandyVape SS316L 150 mesh 70x13mm
Steel rod 22mm diameter, 7cm long

(150 mesh works, but I think a 100 mesh would be optimal)

The only downside of the tek is that sometimes the temp isn't being calculated correctly. Could it be the Joytech TC algorithm? I read more people having this issue here. Also its unfortunate that there is such a big difference between mods and settings.
 

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The buckets have been a nightmare, the supplier messed them up and had to send them back, just looking at another supplier
 

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Teamleary said:
Hello everyone,

Thank you for sharing all of your tries/experiments. It's great to be able to read all that... but it's also a bit confusing! I almost had some dizziness as I was going through the thread. I was ready to order a set up and then got so lost that I stepped back.

I may not have read/understood everything, but I'd like to ask what I think are simple questions:

- how good/expensive a mod has to be? Is there a minimum quality mod necessary? Like some specific tech?

- aum shanty mentioned multiple times a "handling difficulty". What is it? Spreading the spice on the mesh? The way one needs to hold the device while vaping?

- do you melt the spice in "open air" and then "close" when ready to inhale? (like on the video :
) ; is this why there's always a talk about two different temperatures?

- is a drip tip mandatory?

thank you!

Hi friend!

The mod does not have to be expensive, but it must have temperature control for various metals. Titanium, nickel and stainless steel are standard presets. And most mods have a TCR mode where you can set your own TCR values.
Example: Wismec CB-80 TC Box Mod (Discontinued)


Handling difficulty is probably about loading the spice on the mesh.

I melt the spice open after loading, the put the cap on. Just like the video.

A longer drip tip gives cooler vape, and some people like to see the vapor when inhaling. The original drip tip will work, it is up to you to consider if it suits you better.

PS! Vandyvape has just advertised the V2 of the mesh rda. Buy Authentic Vandy Mesh V2 M V2 RDA Matte Black SS 25mm Atomizer
 
Propello said:
sbc1 said:
Still trying to get them made so will keep you's updated

That's such a pity sbc1, sorry it didn't work. Can you tell what was the issue with these?

The legs are wrong, I told them they needed to be ss316l 150 mesh, dunno what they to be honest but the company have been a nightmare so not dealing with them again, just looking at alternatives
 
To add to propello's answers..

how good/expensive a mod has to be? Is there a minimum quality mod necessary? Like some specific tech?
A good (expensive) mod will have better temp control. Mine doesn't control temp well. It pulses as long intervals. Yesterday I went for Wattage mode. First hit 18W. Was too low, didn't vape all. Second hit 22W, worked better. Not sure why TC doesn't work well. Maybe the longer the mesh, the harder it is to control? Wattage works, you can use your inhalation speed to control temp: if too high, breath in faster.

aum shanty mentioned multiple times a "handling difficulty". What is it? Spreading the spice on the mesh? The way one needs to hold the device while vaping?
It means loading spice on the mesh. With a short mesh you need to top load. Risk of spilling DMT on the RDA head. With a long mesh you can load horizontally, no spilling on RDA. Also long mesh, more surface area.

do you melt the spice in "open air" and then "close" when ready to inhale?
Correct. Open, load DMT, carefully pulse until melted in liquid sticking to the mesh, close, vape.

For the bucket, could we use the arizer rimmed dome screen? The dome is 17mm wide and 8mm high. Only thing to find out is how to solder /weld the legs.
 

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Those rimmed dome screens make me think - how is the current going to pass through the mesh and heat it up? Surely most of the current will go through the rim? Or am I missing something?
 
downwardsfromzero said:
Those rimmed dome screens make me think - how is the current going to pass through the mesh and heat it up? Surely most of the current will go through the rim? Or am I missing something?

I suspect that is the issue. When I cut my fitted mesh with scissors and fit it to fill the dome, only the area between the legs will glow, not the sides. See attached file.

I think the legs must be mesh and a part of the main mesh sheet from leg to leg including the cup bottom to evenly heat up the cup bottom.

Blessings
 
Propello said:
Teamleary said:
Hello everyone,

Thank you for sharing all of your tries/experiments. It's great to be able to read all that... but it's also a bit confusing! I almost had some dizziness as I was going through the thread. I was ready to order a set up and then got so lost that I stepped back.

I may not have read/understood everything, but I'd like to ask what I think are simple questions:

- how good/expensive a mod has to be? Is there a minimum quality mod necessary? Like some specific tech?

- aum shanty mentioned multiple times a "handling difficulty". What is it? Spreading the spice on the mesh? The way one needs to hold the device while vaping?

- do you melt the spice in "open air" and then "close" when ready to inhale? (like on the video :
) ; is this why there's always a talk about two different temperatures?

- is a drip tip mandatory?

thank you!

Hi friend!

The mod does not have to be expensive, but it must have temperature control for various metals. Titanium, nickel and stainless steel are standard presets. And most mods have a TCR mode where you can set your own TCR values.
Example: Wismec CB-80 TC Box Mod (Discontinued)


Handling difficulty is probably about loading the spice on the mesh.

I melt the spice open after loading, the put the cap on. Just like the video.

A longer drip tip gives cooler vape, and some people like to see the vapor when inhaling. The original drip tip will work, it is up to you to consider if it suits you better.

PS! Vandyvape has just advertised the V2 of the mesh rda. Buy Authentic Vandy Mesh V2 M V2 RDA Matte Black SS 25mm Atomizer

Hey Propello!

Thank you for all that!
I did order the vandyvape (but the fist version, (I ordered it this weekend).
Gonna find a proper mod and will try that soon.
Thank you!
 
some one said:
To add to propello's answers..

how good/expensive a mod has to be? Is there a minimum quality mod necessary? Like some specific tech?
A good (expensive) mod will have better temp control. Mine doesn't control temp well. It pulses as long intervals. Yesterday I went for Wattage mode. First hit 18W. Was too low, didn't vape all. Second hit 22W, worked better. Not sure why TC doesn't work well. Maybe the longer the mesh, the harder it is to control? Wattage works, you can use your inhalation speed to control temp: if too high, breath in faster.

aum shanty mentioned multiple times a "handling difficulty". What is it? Spreading the spice on the mesh? The way one needs to hold the device while vaping?
It means loading spice on the mesh. With a short mesh you need to top load. Risk of spilling DMT on the RDA head. With a long mesh you can load horizontally, no spilling on RDA. Also long mesh, more surface area.

do you melt the spice in "open air" and then "close" when ready to inhale?
Correct. Open, load DMT, carefully pulse until melted in liquid sticking to the mesh, close, vape.

For the bucket, could we use the arizer rimmed dome screen? The dome is 17mm wide and 8mm high. Only thing to find out is how to solder /weld the legs.

Thank you! I guess there will be some experiments, I'm gonna have to find the "sweet spot". But hey, that's part of the journey!
 
Teamleary said:
Hey Propello!

Thank you for all that!
I did order the vandyvape (but the fist version, (I ordered it this weekend).
Gonna find a proper mod and will try that soon.
Thank you!

Hi teamleary.
If you don't vape e-sigarettes, and are just going to use the mod for vaping deems, all you need is a mod with a single 18650 battery, or internal battery. Cheaper, smaller and still battery for a 100 travels.
Vaporesso is a good brand. This kit is tiny and good quality.

The tank in the kit would be good for DMT vape liquid, as you can buy small ceramic coils at 0.3 ohm, with this ss coil you can set the mod at 45 watt and max temp 260C in SS mode. But that is another story...)

Edit: the vandy vape v1 will do perfect for this purpose, no need for V2.

Blessings
 
Propello said:
Teamleary said:
Hey Propello!

Thank you for all that!
I did order the vandyvape (but the fist version, (I ordered it this weekend).
Gonna find a proper mod and will try that soon.
Thank you!

Hi teamleary.
If you don't vape e-sigarettes, and are just going to use the mod for vaping deems, all you need is a mod with a single 18650 battery, or internal battery. Cheaper, smaller and still battery for a 100 travels.
Vaporesso is a good brand. This kit is tiny and good quality.

The tank in the kit would be good for DMT vape liquid, as you can buy small ceramic coils at 0.3 ohm, with this ss coil you can set the mod at 45 watt and max temp 260C in SS mode. But that is another story...)

Edit: the vandy vape v1 will do perfect for this purpose, no need for V2.

Blessings

hey! Thank you again Propello!

indeed, it'll be only for spice : )
I'm buying from France and, idk if that's weird but the one you send is actually more expensive here than those two (without battery tho):

Vape Batteries & Mods | Luxe Vape Mod | Vaporeso (I can have it for 45 bucks)
GEN Mod » Vaporesso (39)

(I think it's because we can't buy the mini just as a mod (it sold in kit with tanks etc.)

I also already ordered Vandy Vape SS316L 150 mesh : )
 
Good luck Teamleary, keep us posted.

Those rimmed dome screens make me think - how is the current going to pass through the mesh and heat it up? Surely most of the current will go through the rim? Or am I missing something?
If the steel legs are attached to the rim the current will follow the path of least resistance and mainly travel through the rim. A better design would be something like Propello mentioned or:

- no steel rim on top (cut it off)
- one leg (two rods) attached to the right side of the bucket bottom
- the other leg (two rods) attached to the left side of the bucket bottom

or:

- one leg splitting in 3 rods, each attached at equal distance on the rim
- the other leg attached to the center bottom on the bucket mesh

The main advantage for a bucket is easy loading. But it takes work to create. You'd need to weld. Soldering won't work due to temp. While a normal non bucket mesh performs fine. Personally I don't mind taking my time to pre-load. Part of the ritual. It's the smoalking efficiency that really matters. A bucket won't increase that. Might even be reduced vs a 7cm long mesh like mine with more surface area, double story loaded on two sides. But still, cool gadget to have if it does work.

Next step of me is finding a coarser mesh. 100 or below. I think the longer the mesh is, the more it matters that it shouldn't be too fine. Aum is right, as usual.
 
Teamleary, good luck mate. Both those mods are super. The luxe is heavier but bigger screen. Gen is light and the newest model. Remember 2 18650 batteries. Samsung 25r is cheap and good.

I forgot to mention this one, my favourite. Water proof, solid, and a very good TC chip. You would need an 18650 battery and charger for this one.


Blessings
 
Hi Some one!
Impressive mesh setup there mate. Do you use it for deems, and how much do you load at once? I am really curious of how to use all that surface. Would love to see some pics.

You will love 100 mesh. Much easier loading up without spilling. I only found SS 304 sheets on eBay, and it work as a charm, just need a bit higher TCR than ss316.

Blessings
 
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