Two questions about changa. 1.) ephedrine 2.) color of final product after evap

[Helloevo]

I take ephedrine to help get me through work on 2 hours sleep, my first question is how long do I have to wait after my last ephedrine pill until I can smoke changa? It's been about 27 hours, if anyone has experience I'd really appreciate it. I've read that it can be up to 72 hours but I'd rather have a first hand account.

Question #2
I put the changa in a food dehydrator to dry right before leaving to work. When I got back it was dry but the glass dish was really hot because my dehydrator doesn't have a temp dial. My concern was that I burned off some dmt accidentally. My blend isn't nearly as dark as some I've seen here. I know rue extract is darker than caapi extract (I'm using the latter) when mixed with ethanol, but I just want to make sure it looks right since I can't smoke it until I know for sure the ephedrine is out. Any help is greatly appreciated. I've attached a pic of the changa next to a bag of regular mullein below

 

[BongWizard]

It looks like you may have oxidised the outer layer a bit, but it doesn't look too bad IMO. Chop through your changa a bit and see if it darkens up, if not some goodness may have burned off or this could just be the colour of your brew. Remember, no 2 brews ever look *exactly* the same.

As for the ephedrine, I haven't got specific experience, but I have used other stimulants only hours before smoking a changa brew with no detrimental effects. So I think, having given it over 24 hours, you should be right to give it a go. Just remember to start slow. You can always put more in, but you can never take any out.

 

[Ufostrahlen]

Ephedrine: Uses, Interactions, Mechanism of Action | DrugBank Online says an elimination half life of 3-6 hours for EPH. Depends on the pill formulation and your kidney though, but 3-6 h for non-time-released EPH in a young and healthy user. 24h should be fine and most of the EPH should be out of your system.

I would think more about your health in general, 2h sleep, EPH, work, changa? Guess it's time to take a break and eat your antioxidants, good food and take an extended nap.

 

[Helloevo]

Ephedrine: Uses, Interactions, Mechanism of Action | DrugBank Online says an elimination half life of 3-6 hours for EPH. Depends on the pill formulation and your kidney though, but 3-6 h for non-time-released EPH in a young and healthy user. 24h should be fine and most of the EPH should be out of your system.

I would think more about your health in general, 2h sleep, EPH, work, changa? Guess it's time to take a break and eat your antioxidants, good food and take an extended nap.

Thanks for the tip, and tell me about it man I've had trouble sleeping since I was a baby, I'm 26 now and it's still a problem. It doesn't help that I work at 4 am lol you're totally right though my body is being taxed unnecessarily.

 

[Helloevo]

It looks like you may have oxidised the outer layer a bit, but it doesn't look too bad IMO. Chop through your changa a bit and see if it darkens up, if not some goodness may have burned off or this could just be the colour of your brew. Remember, no 2 brews ever look *exactly* the same.

As for the ephedrine, I haven't got specific experience, but I have used other stimulants only hours before smoking a changa brew with no detrimental effects. So I think, having given it over 24 hours, you should be right to give it a go. Just remember to start slow. You can always put more in, but you can never take any out.

The funny thing is the weight is about right, I put 200mg harmalas, 1100mg mullien, 1000mg spice, and 250mg blue lotus and the total weight came out to about 2.3-4 (don't know for sure because I spilled a little. But I whipper up another smaller batch and I'm letting it air dry to see the difference.

 

[BongWizard]

Weight is probably not a great indicator since you wouldn't have been drying it at a temperature high enough to vaporise any of the compounds. The problem would be oxidation of the spice to it's less active n-oxide form if it had indeed gotten too hot. You don't wanna allow the mix to exceed 70C, as that is the point at which dmt begins to oxidise rapidly. Either way, you should have a fair idea once your new brew dries.

 

[TGO]

This is a little off topic but has to do with n-oxide and what to do with it if you prefer pure DMT.
N-oxide can apparently be changed back to its original form. Of course, yours is already infused with plant material so there would be a few extra steps.

-DMT N-oxide mixed in any proportions to DMT (ok to smoke, also psychoactive, some people even preffer it to normal dmt, others dont like it so much but it definitely works and is not dangerous)

Here is how:

Freebase DMT N-oxide is somewhat of a pain to deal with. It’s a yellow oil that won’t crystallize. It can form after extraction and is often present in large amounts in the plant prior to extraction.

According to several sources, DMT N-oxide becomes DMT when vaporized. But some users say the effects are slightly different, so it could be that some of the DMT N-oxide vaporizes without conversion to DMT.

DMT N-oxide is insoluble in naphtha (or heptane), but soluble in water, ether, DCM, etc. If you’re plant material is old, chances are most of the DMT has oxidized into DMT N-oxide. If you’re using naphtha or heptane to extract the DMT, your yield will be very low because it won’t extract much DMT N-oxide.

Let’s say for example that chacruna leaves are used. This sometimes has lots of DMT N-oxide present. For example, in one case the alkaloid mix was 89% DMT-N-oxide and almost no DMT at all. If extracted using a naphtha based A/B extraction, you’ll end up with almost no DMT at all. The DMT-N-oxide would stay in the aqueous phase. In this case you want to either convert it back into DMT or extract it using a solvent like ether or DCM instead of naphtha.

To convert any N-oxide (such as DMT N-oxide) back into its parent freebase alkaloid, you mix it which water made pH 3 (by adding HCl acid, acetic acid, etc.) and excess zinc dust. Mix it continuously for up to 2 hours at room temperature for the conversion to be complete. The remaining zinc dust is filtered off. The pH is then adjusted to pH 9, and the freebase alkaloid is then extracted with a non-polar solvent leaving behind zinc hydroxide in the aqueous phase.

This DMT N-oxide to freebase DMT trick should be part of the initial extraction. After acidifying your extract, before doing a freebase extraction, simple add a lot of excess zinc dust and mix it for 2 hours. Then freebase your DMT and extract it into naphtha. This will greatly increase yields for most plants that contain large amounts of DMT N-oxide that would otherwise be lost in naphtha based extractions.

DMT N-oxide tends to form from DMT when exposed to air drying by a fan, especially in elevated heat. This will make your DMT yellowish and oily. If enough DMT N-oxide is present, you won’t be able to crystallize your DMT unless you freeze precipitate it in naphtha. Dissolving a mix of dry DMT and oily DMT N-oxide in a small amount of warm naphtha will cause the DMT N-oxide to sink to the bottom of the naphtha as yellow or brownish sticky goo. Mix the goo around in the naphtha to free the DMT from it. The DMT will dissolve in the naphtha and can be poured off with the naphtha, leaving behind the DMT N-oxide. Then the DMT can be placed in the freezer to crystallize in the naphtha. Don’t discard the DMT N-oxide goo! You can convert it back into DMT later once you get some zinc dust.

DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT - Advanced/Enhanced chemistry - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus

So if oxidation is what was happening there are ways to change it back. It may not be the easiest process but it is doable. You could just smoke the N-oxide and see how that goes. Some people prefer it, I hear!

Best of luck!

:thumb_up:

 

[Helloevo]

The grateful one - thanks so much for that awesome reply. And to all te other helpful replies as well. My only question is how would I separate te dmt from the harmalas that are in the mullein? Not even sure if I'm gonna do it but it would but nice to know just for future reference.

So the changa is almost dry and it's significantly darker than the previous batch. I basically split the weight of everything in half but it's still about the same ratios. Here's a a couple pics, one of them side by side and another with just the latest batch. Only difference is I added the blue lotus (which wasn't blue to begin with) into the ethanol as opposed to adding it after. So after looking at the pics, is oxidization the culprit? And if so should I go through the trouble of converting it back or just leave it as is?

 

[TGO]

So, you have already gone through quite a few processes to get where you are, right? If I were you, which I'm not, :d , I would at least test what you have before making yourself jump through a bunch of (possibly unnecessary) hoops, IMHO!

Bioassay first, then make changes if the quality is not up to your standards. That is what I would do at least. Whatever that means! :lol:

But if you do want to get your goodies back out of your leaf you can check out this thread!

They discuss some straightforward ways to do it.

 

[1ce]

I take ephedrine daily as well. The half life is about 3 hours. Taking an maoi with ephedrine might not kill you (but it is possible) but the experience will become a nightmare.

Ephedrine is a sympathomimitic amine that is regulated by the body. Taking an maoi, even a weak one will disrupt the flow control used by your body. --over stimulation of the nervous system.

Ephedrine is a remarkable compound with a remarkably nice safety profile. But combining with an maoi is definitely unsafe. 27 hours (depending on your dosings) is likely good enough.

Please also consider ephedrine is not a sleep replacement and offers very little value without proper rest and a decent diet.