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What is the waxy skin that forms on emulsions and how to prevent it?

drpotato

Esteemed member
I am currently doing an A/B from 100g accuminata, i pressure cooked in phosphoric acid, strained/leeched all the salt out, then boiled down to about 500ml, did a toluene defat, and now have basified it, resulting in a lot of tannins i assume, precipitating. the solution is quite thick too, i attempted to vacuum filter the tannins out but to no avail, it clogs the filter paper immediately.

my solvent is toluene.

upon trying to extract the spice i found that it produced horrible emulsions, ok, no problem ill just collect them instead and combine later after heating with gentle mag stirring.
it helped somewhat, 90% of the toluene seperates although as soon as i pour it into the sep funnel it mostly re-emulsifies for a few hours, now i can, if im lucky, drain off the emulsion giving 2/3rds of the clear toluene. the rest is locked in an emulsion, and i now have a question: what exactly is this emulsion made of? at first i thought it was solid tannins forming nucleation sites so i painstakingly vacuum filtered some emulsion and while it was much nicer and less prone to emulsions, it still did if shook, and even with re-filtration would form this perculiar waxy skin, for the emulsion bubbles yet when they burst, the skin remained.

What is this? and how can i avoid this? to ensure that if i get emulsions at very least they will break down? universally the answer ive been given is salt and/or base, this hasnt worked, if anything it makes the issue worse as enough salt causes all the tannins to float in solution pushing it right into any emulsion preventing it from settling readily.

earlier today i painstakingly washed my toluene, drained off the emulsified waxy skin layer hoping to settle it, dilute and decant off, to minimize the losses, but just randomly i thought, i should see what happens if i use distilled water instead of basified water or brine as i had before, my main volume of toluene was at least free of water at this point so it was a good opportunity to reduce any hydroxide content. upon doing so it, immediately settled, no waxy emulsion skin and the bubbles all settled and formed a perfect binary system. this contradicts everything ive ever been told.
I had drained off the emulsion-skin into a second, smaller sep funnel, i tried washing that with distilled water too, but sadly doing that did not fix anything, it prevented the emulsion-scum forming in the first volume, but it doesnt seem able to destroy it in this one, so im still stuck with the inconvenience of producing clean-enough solvent to move onto the second stage. especially since i dont know the composition of this skin/film/scum.


can someone please help me understand whats going on?
 
by the time the PH had passed neutral i didnt notice any additional changes but yes.
I find this happens when the pH is not raised high enough. Next time continue to add NaOH solution until it liquifies again. It’s a weird phenomenon. I think it has to do with too many particulates left in the solution. When I started filtering *extremely* thoroughly it stopped happening
 
i think it might have to do with certain salts crashing/precipitating out of my tap water. i experienced something similar with trying to purify copper sulfate, and calcium salts, i assume, precipitate at exactly the worst possible size for clogging up filter paper
like, milligrams, i couldnt even weigh it. an extremely saturated solution enough to cause tap water precipitation must just for whatever reason form one such sediment. it would explain why washing with distilled water didnt cause another emulsion, and why washing with tap water went so poorly since there was still alkaline/salts present that could be pushed out.

next run im going to just use rain water. its not practical to use distilled water given the costs,
 
a dehumidifier condenses loads of VOCs which dont neccesarily get absorbed by activated carbon, i did consider that once but you end up with stinky fart water depending on where in the house its run.
distilled water has its transport costs attached. its usually about $2/L but theres very rarely bulk discounts. it often costs more to buy it 25L at a time vs 2L

Anyway, id rather go in all or nothing, and just start doing all my chemistry stuff with rainwater, i have the means to collect it after all, so why not.
 
Tbf, my best cactus brews have been made with rainwater. Having recoiled at the prices you mentioned for distilled water, I've now realised you likely mean AUS$, which is marginally less terrible. It also leaves me grateful to live in the vicinity of a populous centre, where transport for most items is effectively free, in that most of my needs can be met on foot or by bicycle. Perhaps this goes some way towards balancing out the lack of reliable indigenous DMT-containing plants!
 
yeah aussie here.
Also just in case anyone reads this thread, the answer in the end of what the weird bubble-skin left behind was, was emulsion that was caused by the presence of solids. unlike liquids, they have nowhere to go so they cant generally break down.
Adding distilled water to them sometimes dissolves them, and sometimes doesnt, after getting away from them, using distilled water to de-saturate the basic soup helps a fair bit to prevent it happening again.

i have heard from certain teks that another way to avoid this issue, is after making the acid soup, and reducing its volume, chilling it which causes lots of solids to crash out that would have gone on staying dissolved. less saturated soup, less chance of minerals forming silt, also, its just massively helpful and also prevents goo-ups or oils not crystalizing in acuminata specifically, but probs others prone to polymerization.

As for how to deal with this emulsion. its really easy to decant but a pain in the ass to run through a seperatory funnel, especially since it stays behind coating all the glass. So just slurp it up until you cant avoid it, and adding more nps will give you access to like 95-99% of the remaining dissolved spice even though you leave a film of NPS and foamy sludge behind. turns out, if you just add one more pull on the end that lets you get away with only sucking up 90% of the naptha each time
 
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