Madhattress
Established member
Okay, so i put a little citric acid in and oversalted to a PH of 2.75. Wayyyy lower than i wanted to go. Is this going to be a problem? And if so is there anything i can do to fix the issue.
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Deciding on a DMT extraction Tek for my first time
- Thread starter Madhattress
- Start date
Sorry i probably should have done some digging around the forum and thought about it more and gotten back to you sooner. The ph is not likely an issue but you'll end up with excess citric acid either way in the water. Unlike kashs mescaline tek that uses hcl, excess citric acid doesn't evaporate like hydrochloric acid. I would imagine you'd need to shake it good to get the dmt migration.
Quick fix evaporate the acidic water layer as planned. Then use EA (which I believe you have from doing the cielo tek) The excess citric acid will dissolve and dmt citrate won't.
Quick fix evaporate the acidic water layer as planned. Then use EA (which I believe you have from doing the cielo tek) The excess citric acid will dissolve and dmt citrate won't.
Madhattress
Established member
_Trip_ said:
Okay great! So once the evaporation is done, then ill mix the goo with a little EA and then decant the EA off and should be good?
My Xylene was quite bright yellow, i did a very thorough pull(had emulsions but got rid of them with some lye as you suggested) and once i did the water pull all the yellow pulled into the water. So i am hoping that there is something in there. Now I just need to be patient and wait for evaporation. :d
Yeah that should work, the evaporated citric acid/ dmt citrate may form a glass/ toffee like layer on the jar (especially if using a bit of heat). So evaporating in a dish might be better to use so you can scrape it up before using the EA.
My concern would be how efficiently the dmt citrate would form and migrate to the water layer from the xylene. But it'll be interesting to find out.
The benzoic acid way may be more appealing in future.
The hielo tek is another option for dmt citrate if e-juice is the goal.
My concern would be how efficiently the dmt citrate would form and migrate to the water layer from the xylene. But it'll be interesting to find out.
The benzoic acid way may be more appealing in future.
The hielo tek is another option for dmt citrate if e-juice is the goal.
Madhattress
Established member
_Trip_ said:
Yeah, I put the water pull into a big lasagne/pryex dish like i did for my Kash AB Mescaline extraction. Also want it to evaporate faster with a bigger surface area.
Now I wait. Hopefully all this effort is rewarded, as i really do hope this bark is better than I yielded.
Don't get discouraged the yeild is better than most for their first extraction. You'll find what works in the future. I'll bet your numbers will improve each time.
Madhattress
Established member
_Trip_ said:
Oh i wont, I love doing extractions too much to let my first yield get me down.
But thanks for the words of encouragement and for all the very helpful advise. I have had the most fun doing this extraction and trying my best to get those stubborn alkaloids
Madhattress
Established member
_Trip_ said:
Will definitely try the Max Ion or AB next time as well. :thumb_up:
Madhattress
Established member
So things are definitely happening! This is what this water extraction currently looks like. It is now the consistency of syrup. Very exciting stuff indeed i guess the bark had more to give!
Ps. The brown is just from stains on this old pryex dish on the outside. Dont mind that
i guess the bark had more to give!Ps. The brown is just from stains on this old pryex dish on the outside. Dont mind that
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Nice madhattress, hopefully it's not just citric acid. I'd suggest scrapping it up before adding EA. Warm EA may help excess citric acid dissolve easier.
Madhattress
Established member
_Trip_ said:
I will wait until it's drier, what consistency should it be before scraping it and mixing EA with it?
I used about a 1/4 teaspoon or little less in the salting step. Lets hope it isnt just citric acid....
The finer it is the easier it will dissolve. Not the biggest issue. 1/4 of a teaspoon is 1.4g approx so use atleast 50ml of EA to be on the safe side.
Madhattress
Established member
_Trip_ said:
Okay cool, I will make sure to do that once this is drier. Very curious to see what comes out from this.
Madhattress
Established member
Mushie_Man
Mushie_Man
I have developed my own simple way over time with amazing results every time. You will get overwhelmed with too much intricacy if you ask too many people.
- 100g Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (powdered), add to 1L Borosilicate glass mason jar (clip-top).
- In a separate borosilicate glass measuring jug, add the lye to 750ml de-ionised water slowly as a violent chemical reaction occurs and creates a high pH solution with high temperature. We need a pH of 12 to break down the cell walls and release the molecule into the base so keep adding the lye in small increments and stirring until dissolved and the desired pH is reached. Allow to cool to room temperature before adding to the powdered bark (this helps to create whiter crystals).
- Mix your cooled down (I like to feel the outside of the jug with my hand but you can use a thermometer also) lye water into the powdered bark. Be careful not to splash it on you and always wear gloves, eye protection and even a face mask to help prevent harmful fumes from being inhaled. Mix until the bark is fully saturated and no dried bark is floating on the top. Take your time with this part and make sure it's done correctly.
- Once you are happy that your base is fully saturated, add your solvent on top. Mix (don't shake) softly for about 10 minutes and let sit for 30 minutes and do this 7/8 times to ensure the solvent has extracted the molecule into it. We are just making sure that every bit of the base has been in contact with the solvent to rip away that molecule. Dont worry about emulsions because vibration can help remove them.
- When you are happy, siphon just the solvent layer off into a freezer dish with a lid and let it freeze for 12 hours MINIMUM! Don't worry about leaving a thin layer of solvent in the mason jar as it gets difficult to siphon without getting any base into the pipette. We will add in more on top to start what's called the 2nd pull. Once you do this just repeat the mixing and siphon process and its recommended to do this 3 times (3 pulls) overall
- 100g Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (powdered), add to 1L Borosilicate glass mason jar (clip-top).
- In a separate borosilicate glass measuring jug, add the lye to 750ml de-ionised water slowly as a violent chemical reaction occurs and creates a high pH solution with high temperature. We need a pH of 12 to break down the cell walls and release the molecule into the base so keep adding the lye in small increments and stirring until dissolved and the desired pH is reached. Allow to cool to room temperature before adding to the powdered bark (this helps to create whiter crystals).
- Mix your cooled down (I like to feel the outside of the jug with my hand but you can use a thermometer also) lye water into the powdered bark. Be careful not to splash it on you and always wear gloves, eye protection and even a face mask to help prevent harmful fumes from being inhaled. Mix until the bark is fully saturated and no dried bark is floating on the top. Take your time with this part and make sure it's done correctly.
- Once you are happy that your base is fully saturated, add your solvent on top. Mix (don't shake) softly for about 10 minutes and let sit for 30 minutes and do this 7/8 times to ensure the solvent has extracted the molecule into it. We are just making sure that every bit of the base has been in contact with the solvent to rip away that molecule. Dont worry about emulsions because vibration can help remove them.
- When you are happy, siphon just the solvent layer off into a freezer dish with a lid and let it freeze for 12 hours MINIMUM! Don't worry about leaving a thin layer of solvent in the mason jar as it gets difficult to siphon without getting any base into the pipette. We will add in more on top to start what's called the 2nd pull. Once you do this just repeat the mixing and siphon process and its recommended to do this 3 times (3 pulls) overall
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Toshido
Research & Development
Doubling back after being MIA. This is the dish I use for crystallization. I simply double seal it with suran wrap before wrapping in a towel.
The 1000mL has more surface area on the bottom, making it easier to scrape xtals out of it. The corners I use a soft guitar pick and then a hard guitar pick, works great. Love the dish though, never went back to a pyrex dish. The pour spout makes it easier to decant into a small 100mL beaker when re-xing what you can't scrape.
Xtal Dish
The 1000mL has more surface area on the bottom, making it easier to scrape xtals out of it. The corners I use a soft guitar pick and then a hard guitar pick, works great. Love the dish though, never went back to a pyrex dish. The pour spout makes it easier to decant into a small 100mL beaker when re-xing what you can't scrape.
Xtal Dish
Madhattress
Established member
Madhattress
Established member
Madhattress
Established member
So a happy little surprise, i had like 300ml of my original solvent pulls which i evaporated outside for a few days until it was around 50ml. I popped it in the freezer just to see if there was anything left. Its not much but i got a extra 100mg of pure white xtals when i had a look this morning. So i guess this also teaches me to have more patience with the freezer precipitation and leave it for longer than i thought.
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