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Jorkest's D-Limonene Bufotenine Extraction TEK

Migrated topic.
You should pick up a espresso thermometer (around $5-$10) at the grocery store & heat it to around 320-350F degrees for around 5 minutes. bringing it to a full boil pulls some extra oils & others have said it burns something in the D-Limo too.

Using the High Purity D-Limonene made a big difference in how clean & dry the resulting extract came out after use for me.


WS
 
Garulfo said:
As acetone seems to pick a lot of stuff from seeds, if bufotenine is not soluble in aciditic acetone, could it be used to wash the seeds prior to basify them ?
Is it that simple or do I miss something ?

Dude... you would not believe how much stuff comes out of the seeds this way. I guess it depends on the seeds really, but SWIM ran about 600ml of acetone over the seeds before he got bored... even then it was still a little yellow, but SWIM doesn't really want to be spending a fortune on acetone. But his collective acetone washes were a very dark amber. His first fumerate salts look a little whiter than what he got from better seeds that weren't washed.

SWIM's curious to know how washing the seeds before basify differs in effect to an acetone wash on the fumerate salts? I understand that fumaric acid forms quite strong bonds with alkaloids. Is this correct?

But it he could do the same thing effectively on a smaller volume he could save a lot of acetone.

Maybe there's a more suitable acid one can use to aquire cebil alkaloids in a smaller volume than seed form that releases more toxins to acetone than fumerates would?
 
curious to know how washing the seeds before basify differs in effect to an acetone wash on the fumerate salts?

Indeed hard to say.
On the other hand, working on small amounts is easier but it's also easier to lost a lot of yield...
 
D-Limonene? Just incredible, genius to use this subtance. Will it work on extracting other Tryptamines? I.e. for a DMT extraction?
 
Evening Glory said:
D-Limonene? Just incredible, genius to use this subtance. Will it work on extracting other Tryptamines? I.e. for a DMT extraction?

It's cool for DMT acid states.. except fumerate I think. Not great for freebase because it doesn't evap nicely.





Is the amount of fumerate salts you get on the first FASA a good indication of how potent the seeds are? Or would it only indicate this if the fumerate salts were very white?
 
soulfood said:
Evening Glory said:
D-Limonene? Just incredible, genius to use this subtance. Will it work on extracting other Tryptamines? I.e. for a DMT extraction?

It's cool for DMT acid states.. except fumerate I think. Not great for freebase because it doesn't evap nicely.

FASA should be able to percip DMT out of it, just like you can with xylene. After that, freebase and pull with acetone.
 
Is it worth SWIM's while to aquire some MEK and Heptane if he's going for the purest form possible?

Or can these results be achieved just by following the Tek detailed in this thread?

SWIM's already destroyed 100g of seeds 50g of which were probably pretty good quality. He has 100g coming in from a recommended vendor and really wants to make it work this time.
 
soulfood said:
Is it worth SWIM's while to aquire some MEK and Heptane if he's going for the purest form possible?

Or can these results be achieved just by following the Tek detailed in this thread?

SWIM's already destroyed 100g of seeds 50g of which were probably pretty good quality. He has 100g coming in from a recommended vendor and really wants to make it work this time.

So Soulfood, did pre-washing the ground up seeds before basifying, end up not being a good thing?
Or did the seed hit the fan at some other point during the process?

Sounded like a workable idea, I'm waiting for the postman to bring me more seeds to work with right now.
Made a pretty big order this time so I have enough to keep experimenting with.
Got couple of different strains too, to test repeatability, if I'm ever actually successful.

I noticed that like others have mentioned, the longer my yield sits, the darker it gets!!
I am keeping it in a small airtight (I think...) glass vile & it still seems to be oxidizing rapidly!!

Anyone know how to deal with this better?
Does it oxidize as rapidly when you are actually successful in extracting pure (clear/white) crystals?


WS
 
warrensaged said:
So Soulfood, did pre-washing the ground up seeds before basifying, end up not being a god thing?
Or did the seed hit the fan at some other point during the process?

Can't be sure... the seeds looked pretty beaten up when they arived, however nothing worth noting came out of the FASA step. So I'm guessing the seeds were just very fatty and of little else.
 
soulfood said:
warrensaged said:
So Soulfood, did pre-washing the ground up seeds before basifying, end up not being a god thing?
Or did the seed hit the fan at some other point during the process?

Can't be sure... the seeds looked pretty beaten up when they arived, however nothing worth noting came out of the FASA step. So I'm guessing the seeds were just very fatty and of little else.

aw nuts...I mean seeds...😉

WS
 
warrensaged said:
I've on;y been experimenting with 25g at a time, until I get something repeatable.

WS

Are you talking about variety in yield, purity or both?

Also are people drying the initial basified material with heat or patience?
 
soulfood said:
Are you talking about variety in yield, purity or both?
Mainly purity, I have had good yields with the seeds I've been using, although I've jacked things up a few times & lost most of those yields.:cry:

soulfood said:
Also are people drying the initial basified material with heat or patience?
I wait until there are no more obvious wet spots (using patience + a small fan), then I put it in the oven @ 120F degrees to dry everything completely, back to a powder.
Also, while doing the initial drying, I usually stir the wet mixture around for a few minutes, then spread & flatten it out as much as possible on the glass dish I'm using. I also scratch a cross-hatch onto the surface of it with a paper clip, to get as much surface area exposed to the air as possible.
Then I let it sit, with the fan blowing indirectly at it for 5-10 minutes, before scraping it up, mixing it back together & spreading it back out again.
I'll do this over & over until it's no longer damp, then the oven @ 120 degrees, will dry it completely without burning, or messing anything up.


It seems a lot of folks might have lost interest in this tek, or at least trying to perfect it.
I'm still really interested in figuring out how to get pure, crystalline Bufotenine!!
When I started extracting DMT from Mimosa, the number of different processes had already been perfected, so I just had to learn how to replicate the reliable results that others had already figured out.
But I'm actually really enjoying the whole process of experimenting with this to see what will, or will not work out!!
Even though it's not exactly cheap...:?
However, the fact that at least two members of this forum have reported being able to crystallize pure Bufotenine, even if it was only one time, shows that it is possible to do it.
We Just need to figure out a process that will work every time...
And a way to keep it from oxidizing so fucking fast!!


WS
 
SWIM would continue working on this process..but hes run out of funds for more materials..such as acetone..the easiest way is to boil xylene..the cleaner way is to use MEK:heptane..but it has to be just perfect..because otherwise you get amber color in it..

perhaps a good way to do it is...do the xylene boil...and then after the bufo has precipped from that..do a d-limo boil..
 
It seems a lot of folks might have lost interest in this tek, or at least trying to perfect it.
I'm still really interested in figuring out how to get pure, crystalline Bufotenine!!

SWIM is still very motivated, but he gave up with the limonene as it always 'failed' with dark sticky goo. SWIM guess this is because his limonene is only 90% pure (food grade).

SWIM prefer yet to explore with MEK+naphta+ammonia as it requires no heating. He will give a try to the xylene boil tough.
 
SWIM can't stress enough of letting the bufo dry out completely before scraping.

He did 1 limo boil, pour onto flat suraface. Waited 2 hours, poured off limo. Waited one hour then scraped. After a 2 hours the bufo went slimy.

Same process, different part of same batch and materials but with 12 hours between pouring off limo and scraping produced a much more solid product, which was chopped down to a dry powder. Looks the lighter side of brown but nowhere near tan. Not a pleasant smoke with barely threshold effects at 10mg.


So SWIM wants to try do some cleaning off this extract with a acetone:naptha mix. Could anyone recommend a good ratio for SWIM to use?
 
soulfood said:
SWIM can't stress enough of letting the bufo dry out completely before scraping.

He did 1 limo boil, pour onto flat suraface. Waited 2 hours, poured off limo. Waited one hour then scraped. After a 2 hours the bufo went slimy.

So SWIM wants to try do some cleaning off this extract with a acetone:naptha mix. Could anyone recommend a good ratio for SWIM to use?

Hey man, If your want to avoid that slimy stuff even more, when pouring the D-Limo on the flat surface (glass dish) set the glass dish at an angle, so only one corner of the dish is touching the counter top. Then pour the hot D-Limo from the top of the angled dish.
As soon as the liquid hits the cool surface, the Bufo will immediately fall out & stick to the glass, the rest of the D-Limo will pool up at the bottom corner of the dish.
If there is any large pieces of precipitated Bufo floating in the liquid, I'll carefully pour the liquid along the sides of the dish to try & stick the floaties to another piece that is already stuck to the glass. But try not to let the cooling D-Limo soak into the precipitated extract, anymore than necessary.

I usually leave it sit with the D-Limo pooled in that corner for 30-40 minutes. Then pour it off into another container to discard later.
The D-Limo left has nothing you want left in, I've evaped it down after this process & got nothing but slimy oils!!

I'm actually about to do this process right now, I'll take a pic...


Cheers!

WS
 
Cool.

SWIM's currently got some bufo in vinegar and zinc. Hopefully that won't harm the mole, but I've been reading some and I've read that it's possible that much of the toxins could be bufo n-oxide.

About to filter out the zinc.
 
soulfood said:
Cool.

SWIM's currently got some bufo in vinegar and zinc. Hopefully that won't harm the mole, but I've been reading some and I've read that it's possible that much of the toxins could be bufo n-oxide.

About to filter out the zinc.

Could you explain this process a bit?

WS
 
SWIM's using the same process detailed in the DMT N-Oxide to DMT conversion tek found on the wiki.

He had his brownish bufotenine in the bottom of a glass, then added just a little more vinegar than needed to disolve the bufo. He then added a little more than the bufo's weight in zinc and stirred for 2 hours (well on and off for 3 or 4).

Then filter off the zinc and evap the vinegar.

I have no idea if this works for bufotenine, or even if SWIMs extract contains bufotenine n-oxide but I'll keep you informed of SWIMs results.

Evaporating now.
 
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