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Max Ion Tek Details

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A Single Step

Rising Star
Opps, sorry, I realize I placed this post in the wrong location (introductions). I put another copy of it here, but I don't know how to delete the miss-posted copy.

I've been reading and learning on the Nexus for some time. This week I placed orders for the all the materials and equipment to execute the Max Ion Tek. Powdered MHRB, Heptane, glassware, etc. I have questions about a number of details that I feel are kinda vaguely specified in the Tek:

Temperature of acid soak?
Temperature of NPS for defat?
Temperature of NPS for pull?
Volume of NPS used for each pull?
Recommended dimensions of freeze precip pyrex dish?
Freeze precip temp specified as -6deg... That's Celcius?
More detailed instructions for Re-x?

Anybody measure the marginal benefit of the freeze thaw procedure, given the time it takes? I'd think 8 hours soaking at pH 2 would break down the cell walls of powered MHRB pretty well.

Does defat give a better product using MHRB, even though it may not be as beneficial as compared to when used for ACRB?

I read about cleaning the NPS/DMT freebase solution with distilled water/baking soda solution. Does this work?
 
A Single Step said:
Worse case is probably 100 mL NPS spills out over the counter and floor if the extraction vessel breaks. Would that generate an explosive mixture in a small kitchen? I'm guessing not, but I don't know.
You can calculate this from the volume of the room concerned, and the molecular weight and the explosive limits of xylene. The worst case scenario would be spillage of your 100mL onto a surface hot enough to vaporize practically all of it. The smaller the kitchen, the more likely it is that a localized concentration of xylene will approach the lower explosive limit, which is the concentration of given substance in air that will ignite explosively. It should be fairly straightforward to extrapolate the localised expansion of the higher concentration vapor cloud in the vicinity of the spillage site in order to establish if and when a dangerous concentration of xylene will reach any given ignition source.

Xylene vapour is significantly denser than air so, especially after cooling (remembering the worst case scenario of a hot surface spillage), it will tend to accumulate at floor level if undisturbed.

The ambient temperature of the kitchen also needs to be taken into account. Compare this with the flash point of xylene. IIRC this is about 26°C so keeping the temperature of your kitchen below this not only makes working more comfortable 😁 but also greatly reduces the fire hazard.

Voidmatrix said:
I'm sure the SDS for naphtha has similar, if not the same, precautions.
Broadly, yes - although most naphtha used for extractions will have a lower flash point than xylene thus making it more easily flammable.

Always be fully mindful of the safety data of any material being used and take pains to become familiarised with what all of it means (but maybe not on an experiential level :!: :lol: )
 
downwardsfromzero said:
Voidmatrix said:
I'm sure the SDS for naphtha has similar, if not the same, precautions.
Broadly, yes - although most naphtha used for extractions will have a lower flash point than xylene thus making it more easily flammable.

Always be fully mindful of the safety data of any material being used and take pains to become familiarised with what all of it means (but maybe not on an experiential level :!: :lol: )

I know I know I know lmao. I wasn't too familiar with the xylene SDS hence my generalization bahaha!

One love
 
SWIM is just about to start his attempt at this tek and has a couple of questions.

1 Step 1 - Acid Step. Ive read (on here) that this can be completely bypassed and not really effect yield. Is this true, or is it a bit more complicated?

2 Step 3 - Salt Step. Im using 200g MHRB; Should I double up on the salt or just add another 40g?

3 Step 7 - Add Naphtha. How much for each pull? The tek doesn't specify other than 'minimal'

4 Step 11 Evap Step. Instead of wasting it, could I just distill off the excess so I could recycle the NPS? I assume as the bp of Naphtha is around 80C this will not effect the DMT as that boils at 160C?

Thank you :)
 
1. I am not completely sure, but it does help break things down better over all. According to the "Why?" section of the tek document, states
Max Ion Tek "Why?" Section said:
... Also this will convert the molecule in solution to salt form.
The proteins in the plant will break apart in either acid or base as long as it is being heated. The reaction mechanism is actually the same either way; it just changes the order in which the electrons move around.
That said, perform an extraction acidifying and another skipping it and let us know how it goes. That way I don't have to test it out.😁

2. Generally, one should not simply add in proportion to the amount of bark being used, ie not doubling up everything if the bark has been doubled. I can't remember off the top of my head all of the considerations/calculations to be performed to accomodate a higher amount of starting material and will have to search around the Nexus, as I know I've seen the information several times before. I just never need to use it because I always use the same amount of bark.

3. 50ml. When you get better at it, you'll be able to use around 30ml-35ml.

4. Seems reasonable. I don't see why that wouldn't be effective and great idea!

One love
 
2x100g extractions might well be better than 1x200g extraction. For one thing, you'll get to practice the extraction to the letter. For another, if anything goes wrong you won't have waste all the bark. You would also get to test out the acidification vs no acidification variable.
 
Still working on the first batch but I will skip the acid step for the next.

One question. I have pulled about 2g freebase and would like to try to get some jungle.

I have added 100ml of Limonene to the soup and left it for 24 hours with sporadic stirring and mixing.

Do I just seperate the Limonene and do a FASI on it? I have acetone so could do a FASA if thats better.
 
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