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No Smell, Quick and Easy, Almost Pure Bufotenine Extraction

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The more accurate thing to say would be that bufotenine citrate is hygroscopic and will readily take on much moisture from the air. As you have dried it in a dehydrator it has actually gone powdery, but I reckon if you leave it out long enough it will turn gooey.

You have to freebase it now, then purify.
 
Alright, crystallin powder mixed with water and sodium carbonate then dried, then mixed with 1 part acetone/4parts naphta: crashing out of some brown sticky goo, evap of the nearly clear solution of solvents.

Results: ridiculous small amount of oily stuff, like 1mg!!!...

Something went wrong obviously!!!! aaaaaaahhh please what????
 
Maybe not enough acetone was used?

I find because all naphtha's are different mixes of solvents the same ratios don't work the same from brand to brand. If you kept the crude extract that did not desolve in your solvent mix then try performing the same process but with 1.5:4.

Then again the seeds may just not contain much more than trace amounts of bufotenine.
 
SWIM mixed back the precipitated goo with acetone already and after filtration he dried it to get an yellow-orange powder. He's gonna try this final product and see if more purification is needed because he thinks his naphta (escort camping fuel) is not so pure.

Thanks really much Soulfood you really helped him out. One more thing, apparently many attempts are needed to access the visions would you say it all depends on individuals or that's a relationship anybody has to build?
 
With me I don't think it was that it took me a lot of times to adjust to it as much as I have to take a lot more of it than I thought. On top of that it's no where near as smooth as DMT so I really had to punish myself to get a decent dose. I hear a lot of folk say they have to lay down and concerntrate to really get into the visions, but I've smoked this stuff in a joint outside before, while standing up and by the time I finished it and got inside my house, all around me was being struck with static lightning.

I still don't think I've seen the best of this molecule that's for sure, but my prefered way to use it is to smoke it with enhanced caapi leaf to the point I'm getting some pretty solid CEV's and then take a fairly decent hit of DMT. The synergy between the 3 is nothing short of breath taking. Thoug I'd highly advise working with bufotenine alone first as the initial discomfort can be quite unsettling, but that soon passes, after which I feel as fresh as a flower with a head clear of glass.
 
I am having some problems with this TEK. I added the FASI and saw many lovely fumarate crystals stuck to the jar. The water and carbonate step really screwed me. Seeing as how many others are having a problem with this step, what can be done to avoid it in the future? Perhaps scraping up the fumarate crystals and freebasing in a much smaller solution? and then proceeding with the 1:4 Naptha Clean up.

As it stands have gotten 60mg of Dark Brown sticky crystals after 4 or 5 attempts at cleaning. The first pull of my dried caramel lump yielded 20mg of light tan crystals, and subsequent pulls only got darker. Is this Dark Brown extract worth a smoke? or am I just going to make myself sick. This tek seems so easy and uses very accessible supplies, I would love to see it work!

Once
 
I usually just mix my fumarates with the sodium carbonate and thoroughly mix into a paste with plenty of water until almost on the watery side and then allow to dry completely. It takes a little longer, but I believe it to be more thorough.
 
So you scrape the Fumarates and freebase with Sodium Carbonate and water in a new container. Do you evap the water with heat?, this mix could safely be dried in the oven, no? Thanks for the tip Soulfood, next time I will do this and see how it goes.
 
You can dry in the oven at a low temp, though I let it air dry. I've accidentally over toasted this stuff too many times to risk it.

I have a little petri dish that I mix in, then I spread it out flat to dry. Once dry I scrape it all up and chop it into a powder, then I do a few pulls with dry acetone, evap that, then mix my solvent (naphtha:acetone) and stir thoroughly. I think it's best that the black goo never desolves in the first place than desolving the whole lot then attempting to crash it out with naphtha.
 
Yeah, I was never able to get rid of the black. Its been following me around the whole clean up process. Every time I pull off the powdered crude bufo clump my 1:4 mix always comes out brown. Even after I evap and clean again it still won't clean up. Oh well, I will test my extract this weekend and see what it is I've got here.
 
This is a pathetic cry for help.

I'm about to give up on this molecule in disgust without ever trying it. My seeds are from a reliable/trusted supplier. I have tried for bufo multiple times and failed every single time, apparently early on, at the step of adding the fumaric acid.

Extremely frustrating, as the promised fumarates do not drop out. Instead, an oily black (with red tones) residue forms on the bottom of the jar. I'm chemistry ignorant but really, really good at following directions to the letter. I did everything as stated, though needed extra drying time when I added the water (before I added the anhydrous acetone) to the seed paste.

Any guidance would be appreciated. Though I'm on the cusp of saying screw it, I haven't thrown anything out yet.

Thanks!
 
pandora, ok..that black crap is normal..happens every time..the tek should mention this IMO and there are some steps here that are less than adequate from what I have experienced.

When you add the fumaric acid to the iso or acetone and that crap drops out, which should be instantly, quickly decant the iso or acetone..that black goo crap should stay stuck in the jar. Then you leave the jar of solvent to sit overnight. It always takes hours for the fumerates to start to xtalize on the jar for me..It NEVER EVER EVER happens right away as some claim.

Just make sure you decant within a minute or so of that crap dropping out..then put the solvent in a fresh jar and wait. Crystals will form. If you dont decant the solvent, you will come back later and see lots of fumerates crystalizing mixed in with that damn goo.
 
fractal,

Thank you so much for such a quick and helpful reply. I am fortunate, in that I did decant right away, though I suspect it was a couple/few minutes rather than one so . . .

But, great, I'm going to leave the acetone jar (what I decanted) sealed overnight and hope for the best. Thanks again.
 
fractal enchantment said:
When you add the fumaric acid to the iso or acetone and that crap drops out....
Click to expand...

Hi fractal so you would say one can use IPA with this tech? Any difference in purity or else in your opinion?

Thanks man, you are the one who gets SWIM interested in bufo with your crazy posts about it... After a not so clean extraction he would like to go deeper with it...:d
 
Well, I checked the acetone jar this morning and no change, no fumarate precipitation. Back where I always end up with bufo and I don't know why.

Any effect to be achieved by heating or cooling at this point or should I just give up?

Thanks again everyone!
 
hmmm..thats very strange pandora..

I cant really say about acetone..I have never ever used it for bufotenine. I always use 99% iso. Are you sure there is no water content in your acetone?

How many pulls did you do and for how long?
 
I presume it was anhydrous as I did the procedure with cooking the Epsom salts until they were ashy, then covering overnight with acetone to suck out all the water.

I only did 3 initial pulls. The acetone had more red/brown tones than yellow/orange even after multiple filtrations.

I think I'll eventually try one more time but forget trying to worry about anhydrous acetone and just fork out the extra expense for the 99% IPO.

Thanks for your guidance fractal.
 
Pandora,

Old bufo can be tricky sometimes. I've had results where it literally goes exactly as the tek states, and others that are almost unsalvageable... and those are with the same stock of seeds.

The red brown that you mention has happened to me many times too. When that happens I let the seed/base mix dry out and pull with acetone again. At that point, the solvent takes on a real nice yellow hue. I then proceed with the fumaric acid step, however, I don't decant the acetone like Fractal said(going to try that next time though). Once I add the fumaric acid, it turn super cloudy with precipitates. I let that sit, and after an hour or two you can see bufo fumerate forming through the acetone. I usually extract at night, so I let the acetone sit overnight. In the morning, the once cloudy acetone is now nearly crystal clear. Decant that to reveal your bufo fumerate. Proceed with the tek, and good luck...
 
Having freebased 20g of ground Cebil with 5g Sodium Carbonate she let the mixture dry over night. The following day she used a hotplate to try and dry the mixutre further. Upon drying the mixture of crude freebased ground seed she realised she had no solvent and would have to wait untill not the following day.. but the day after that.

Is her bufotenine freebase in danger of being totally degraded within the freebased seed mixture?
Is is worth her pulling from the seed mixture or should she start again with fresh seeds once she has solvent.

She thinks bufo might degrade so fast that this freebased seed mixture will be useless after having been sat there for days.
 
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