official extraction help thread

[psilocybin]

Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.

 

[Hyper Turtle]

Regarding the actual making of the liquid, do you buy ready mixed pg/vg liquid or is it really as simple as mixing pg and vg together in its required ratios
And then you just measure out the amount of pg/vg your tank can hold with a syringe, put it in a small glass bowl in a hot bowl of water and sprinkle on the right amount of DMT and it’ll dissolve with mixing? I’ve seen some people say the water needs to be exactly 60C, is that correct or can it just be boiling kettle water or anything hot

You can buy it premixed or mix yourself. It really is as easy as mixing them together. Personally i only use 100% PG, never had any leakage in my experiments so far. I haven't vaped DMT containing juice in one of my tanks yet, only in ccell carts (TH2-EVO). 500mg DMT-fb : 1ml PG was not strong enough for 2 hit breakthrough in these carts. I'd think a tank should aerosolise more juice per hit though. What i noticed is that with juice, onset is slower/delayed by maybe 15 seconds, compared to vaping crystals or smoking changa. That might be a problem for breakthrough regardless of strength - maybe someone with more juice experience can chime in on that.

If you use DMT freebase, it will dissolve easily, with or without heat (idk if VG makes it so heat is required). Note however that DMT freebase in PG is somewhat harsh (and will probably deteriorate within weeks to months). You should get a more enjoyable and stable vape if you also add citric acid - see HIELO - DMT-Nexus Wiki

I have heated PG with harmalas for prolonged time in boiling waterbath - i sealed the jar so the PG wouldn't evaporate. I'd assume that's also ok for DMT, but not sure.

 

[downwardsfromzero]

Hungary (hi, Magyar!) - I'd be surprised if you found much more than tannins in A. catechu. Do you know if your material is potent? You could try a micro-scale extraction to see if it's worth the trouble and materials. If not, use it for tannin leather or treating skin problems or something.

I'd soak a 10g sample of the bark(?) in 50mL 40% abv (export strength) vodka at 60°C for two hours, then carefully add a little lime (calcium hydroxide*) to precipitate the tannins. Filter off the solid and rinse it with a little more vodka. Keep the vodka and put the solid to one side - just in case.
You can then evaporate the vodka to see what it contains. Dissolve any residue you get (after first checking for tryptamine odour) in just enough drops of vinegar. Dilute with a little distilled water and if it seems oily, use a dash of limonene to defat.
The defatted solution can be evaporated down, then mixed to a paste with a few pinches of sodium carbonate. It will fizz a bit. Once it stops fizzing, or maybe if it looks too dry, add a little water, followed by another pinch of SC. The idea is to neutralise the vinegar, which is what causes the fizzing with the SC.
This paste must then be dried out thoroughly. Meanwhile, you can use anhydrous SC to dehydrate some of your IPA. Once the paste is dry, you can use your dried IPA to do a few little pulls; allow these to evaporate and if you're exceedingly lucky you'll know whether your bark is worth extracting at a larger scale.

*calcium hydroxide should be easy enough to obtain, but you can make some by mixing calcium chloride solution and sodium hydroxide solution. Please be sure to wear eye protection when handling sodium hydroxide, and never do lab work while intoxicated.

 

[Hungary]

Hungary (hi, Magyar!) - I'd be surprised if you found much more than tannins in A. catechu. Do you know if your material is potent? You could try a micro-scale extraction to see if it's worth the trouble and materials. If not, use it for tannin leather or treating skin problems or something.

I'd soak a 10g sample of the bark(?) in 50mL 40% abv (export strength) vodka at 60°C for two hours, then carefully add a little lime (calcium hydroxide*) to precipitate the tannins. Filter off the solid and rinse it with a little more vodka. Keep the vodka and put the solid to one side - just in case.
You can then evaporate the vodka to see what it contains. Dissolve any residue you get (after first checking for tryptamine odour) in just enough drops of vinegar. Dilute with a little distilled water and if it seems oily, use a dash of limonene to defat.
The defatted solution can be evaporated down, then mixed to a paste with a few pinches of sodium carbonate. It will fizz a bit. Once it stops fizzing, or maybe if it looks too dry, add a little water, followed by another pinch of SC. The idea is to neutralise the vinegar, which is what causes the fizzing with the SC.
This paste must then be dried out thoroughly. Meanwhile, you can use anhydrous SC to dehydrate some of your IPA. Once the paste is dry, you can use your dried IPA to do a few little pulls; allow these to evaporate and if you're exceedingly lucky you'll know whether your bark is worth extracting at a larger scale.

*calcium hydroxide should be easy enough to obtain, but you can make some by mixing calcium chloride solution and sodium hydroxide solution. Please be sure to wear eye protection when handling sodium hydroxide, and never do lab work while intoxicated.

Hi Zer0 !

The micro-scale extraction is a great idea!
I wanna test it what can I get from this acacia species. Maybe not much,maybe nothing,maybe a lot....Will see !
Also wanna practice an extraction tek from these materials I have here.
Can I use isopropyl instead of vodka? I have no vodka. Would like to try to do from these materials I have :
sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonnate,isopropyl 97%,d limonene ,vinegar.
Best regards!
Thank you very much!

 

[downwardsfromzero]

I'm not sure what the initial concentration of aqueous IPA should be optimally, but you can try diluting some to about 40% and proceeding with the first step as though it was ethanol.

There is the possibility of phase separation occurring when aqueous IPA is subjected to high ionic strength at high pH. With luck, this shouldn't happen with lime but if it does and you have trouble recovering the upper layer it might be worth trying again once you can get hold of some vodka.

Otherwise you might have to try different concentrations of IPA. In which case, adding a bit of water would be a start - but that's enough of attempting to anticipate problems other than that liquid phase separation in the presence of fine particulates may lead to an annoying emulsion.

A quick search online would bring up relevant data for this kind of phase separation, if you really wanted to know the concentration of IPA where phase seperation can begin to occur.

[The diluted IPA should only be used for that first tannin separation step, just to be clear.]

 

[Yosoymagia]

Hi everyone, hope you are great. It’s been long time since I last extracted. I just don’t remember exactly,,, but soda cáustica you have to add it in proportional portions, same as the root right ? For basify I it?
For expample: 100 gr of mimosa, equal to 100 gr of soda right?

 

[_Trip_]

Depends on the tek you're following. At the end of the day anything over a PH of 12 is a good starting point. I believe most STB teks ask for 1:1 where as a A/B will usually ask for 5-10% to achieve a suitable ph level.

 

[Cognac]

Regarding the actual making of the liquid, do you buy ready mixed pg/vg liquid or is it really as simple as mixing pg and vg together in its required ratios
And then you just measure out the amount of pg/vg your tank can hold with a syringe, put it in a small glass bowl in a hot bowl of water and sprinkle on the right amount of DMT and it’ll dissolve with mixing? I’ve seen some people say the water needs to be exactly 60C, is that correct or can it just be boiling kettle water or anything hot

You can buy it premixed or mix yourself. It really is as easy as mixing them together. Personally i only use 100% PG, never had any leakage in my experiments so far. I haven't vaped DMT containing juice in one of my tanks yet, only in ccell carts (TH2-EVO). 500mg DMT-fb : 1ml PG was not strong enough for 2 hit breakthrough in these carts. I'd think a tank should aerosolise more juice per hit though. What i noticed is that with juice, onset is slower/delayed by maybe 15 seconds, compared to vaping crystals or smoking changa. That might be a problem for breakthrough regardless of strength - maybe someone with more juice experience can chime in on that.

If you use DMT freebase, it will dissolve easily, with or without heat (idk if VG makes it so heat is required). Note however that DMT freebase in PG is somewhat harsh (and will probably deteriorate within weeks to months). You should get a more enjoyable and stable vape if you also add citric acid - see HIELO - DMT-Nexus Wiki

I have heated PG with harmalas for prolonged time in boiling waterbath - i sealed the jar so the PG wouldn't evaporate. I'd assume that's also ok for DMT, but not sure.

I’d like to use a nice amount of VG too just for some clouds, also I’ve been told to buy an atomiser instead of a normal sub zero tank if I wanted to go 100% PG to reduce leakage chances which makes me want to use a pg/vg mixture more

From what I heard, a g/ml ratio strong enough for a 1 hit In a vaporiser is a 1:1 ratio of dmt to pg/vg. I’ve also heard in order to use a 1:1 ratio you should use 100% PG in order to absorb all the dmt (and not have it crystallise?). I’d also like to feel the hit and take it all in before I breakthrough and take some time to build up to the breakthrough, which is why I’m looking for a 2-3 hit breakthrough

Now I’m assuming the ratios are directly proportional, eg 1:1 = 1 hit so 1:2 doubles it to two hit, but idk if it’s more complicated then that. I have no problem with using a 1.5:2 ratio, if that’ll work


I’m somewhat new to all of this I’m assuming a freebase is the same as a straight to base for dmt? I’m using a STB tek that I posted about on this thread a page or two back


Another thing about the PG that you mentioned is that it’s apparently harsher to vape. Does the citric acid neutralise the liquid? Making it easier to vape? I’m assuming I can recreate that by using a pg vg mix which im definitely leaning towards, maybe 70:30.

As for the longevity of the liquid, I’m honestly not too concerned as I’m untimately just looking for a singular or a few breakthroughs too see if it can help answer my mental health issues, rather then taking trips all the time.

 

[FiniteFox]

Hello !
Im newbie on extraction!

I have sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonnate,isopropyl 97%,d limonene ,vinegar,
half kilo of acacia catecha....
... and I would like to extract the simplest way first,as I never did.

After that max out the yield with these materials i have!

Need some good advise

Welcome traveller. First advice, follow an extraction recipe VERY closely. The "simpliest" extractions are STB - straight to base - teks. They don't acidify the bark first, so you skip some steps. However, some acacia species don't work super well with STB teks, so my recommendation is to do something like Cyb's A/B extraction tek here.
No matter the Tek, I'd recommend using a "better" solvent like naptha (isopropyl is a polar solvent, and you want a NON-POLAR solvent, so do not use that). IMO, D limonene extractions end up being trickier. The sodium hydroxide is fine. Agreed, don't worry about yeild for now. The most important thing is to work step by step, have patience, never throw out anything, try to not make any substitutions and when it comes to the final evaporations & piping off the non-polar-solvent, lean towards getting 100% clean pulls without a speck of black-basified-bark stuff, even if that means you are leaving some DMT in the jar.

 

[downwardsfromzero]

(isopropyl is a polar solvent, and you want a NON-POLAR solvent, so do not use that)

Just to clarify, my suggestion to use IPA for a screening mini-extraction is based on saving the limonene for use in a full scale extraction where it will make sense to be sure it's going to be of maximum use.

It also bears pointing out that my suggested method for the screening should be considered to be experimental, but based on individual proven techniques; whether acacia material will respond to a warm, neutral aqueous alcohol extraction in light of the poor results with STB methods, I can't say at the moment. More data on this is in the pipeline - and I would also encourage researchers with access to acacia material of known potency to try the "hot vodka" screening for confirmation either way of its efficacy.

 

[JFMJR]

Hey all,

I've stumbled upon a new problem. I have searched for other posts with this issue and I went through the FAQ to no avail.

After much work preforming Cyb's Hybrid Salt tek I finally put the naptha in the freezer. It was nice and clear with a golden urine color. After several days in the freezer I notice a "scum" on top of the naptha, as well as white particulate matter inside the naptha. Every resource I see shows crystals stuck to the glass which get scrapped off. There doesn't appear to be anything stuck to the glass here. I can't find anything about what this may be. I don't want to do anything with either the "scum" on top or with the particulate underneath until I know if it's safe.

I seem to be having nothing but problems with this process! Can anyone here advise me on what this may be and what I may do to remedy this situation? I was very careful to follow the tek. I used ACRB. I will attach photos, one of the "scum" on top and one of the particulate.

Thanks in advance!

JM

 

[downwardsfromzero]

JFMJR - Was your precipitation vessel airtight? If not, it may be ice that has formed from water vapor in the air that you let in each time you peeked in the freezer.

Otherwise, it's not unheard of for freeze precip'd alkaloids to float around to a greater or lesser extent. This is one reason why certain teks include a filtration step after the freeze precip to catch the suspended material. Consider also that the naphtha will still be evaporating slowly in the freezer - especially if it's not kept airtight. This increases the DMT concentration in the surface layer back to saturation point and then surface crystallization naturally ensues. Tiny ice crystals (as mentioned above) can also form on the surface which provide nucleation points for the crystallization, and these crystals may subsequently sink, leading to the dispersed floaters which you've observed.

 

[JFMJR]

JFMJR - Was your precipitation vessel airtight? If not, it may be ice that has formed from water vapor in the air that you let in each time you peeked in the freezer.

Otherwise, it's not unheard of for freeze precip'd alkaloids to float around to a greater or lesser extent. This is one reason why certain teks include a filtration step after the freeze precip to catch the suspended material. Consider also that the naphtha will still be evaporating slowly in the freezer - especially if it's not kept airtight. This increases the DMT concentration in the surface layer back to saturation point and then surface crystallization naturally ensues. Tiny ice crystals (as mentioned above) can also form on the surface which provide nucleation points for the crystallization, and these crystals may subsequently sink, leading to the dispersed floaters which you've observed.

It was not airtight. I'll have to tighten that up when I get home from work, perhaps after I run it through a filter. Thank you for getting back with me (again)! I really appreciate your knowledge. I look forward to the day when I can have my turn to help the next new guy!

 

[Cognac]

Hi, i need help
following

s tek, i got up until separating the naphtha from the plant base but i noticed that the naphtha hasn’t changed at all, and still looks completely clear and not yellow-ish. I followed his instructions exactly other then the fact that the naphtha took a little too long to heat up so the powder sat in the base solution for a bit, i did shake it again before filling with naphtha and flipping around just in case anything settled

when flipping around the jar, it looked a bit different to how it looked when he did it :

also when going to separate the naphtha the plant matter looked different ; the bubbles that were there before i added the naphtha formed some beef patty looking clump, not sure if that’s normal as i’m new to this:

 

[Cognac]

please

 

[fractals4life]

The colour of your NPS isn't necessarily indicative of lack of DMT. you'll have to freeze precipitate to find out. If nothing comes out then you can just use the naphtha again. Chances are you definitely have some in there though.

Different physical properties of your source bark (fineness of powder, for instance) will likely make it look a bit different from the video.

You need have no worries about the powder sitting on the base for a few minutes extra, your DMT isn't going to react any further with the base, the freebasing reaction occurs within a few seconds of you adding the base. People have left base soup standing for months and still got the DMT out!
If anything, more time in the base is better if you have coarse ground bark to start with as it will be broken down a bit by the lye and release more DMT.

The boundary between the NPS and the base soup is where you might see any emulsion that has formed when you were agitating, or possibly a mat of floating plant fibres. Either way, don't worry, just be careful not to suck any of that up so it ends up in your precipitation dish at the end. When you do further pulls you'll likely pick up any DMT hiding in that layer

 

[hulopmo]

Hi there,

I did a simple NaOH/MHRB extraction but I have mistaken my heavy alkanes mix (c11-c13) with my lighter alkanes. I tried to distill the DMT in heavy alkanes but only a small amount was boiling at 100 degrees Celsius and I did not wanted to damage the DMT. Then I tried to get the DMT back by adding 32% HCl, doing a LLE to get DMT chlorhydrate, then basify it with NaOH again to get DMT freebase back and extracting with n-pentane, but pretty much nothing came through (only a few milligrams).

Any idea about how I could recover the DMT from my heavy alkane mix without damaging it ? It is not evaporating nor boiling at reasonable temperature, and my vacuum pump is not really strong enough to do proper vacuum distillation.

Edit : I also tried to cristallize it directly in the heavy alkanes but nothing precipitated at -20C.

 

[joshua1133]

As a beginner, how do I prepare dmt in dab form, I know to get root bark mimosa hostilis and vm&p namptha but have no process

 

[elgranada]

So I was following this tek, with "SUNNYSIDE CORPORATION 80032 1-Quart Naphtha" with Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark powder. Did evap test on solvent, worked out pretty good.

Crystals turned out very white. I used "RED HOT DEVIL LYE", with a lady on a can.

I'm wondering if white crystals are OK and whether I need a heptane wash or something? I am drying it currently, pics will be ready soon.

 

[Transform]

So I was following this tek, with "SUNNYSIDE CORPORATION 80032 1-Quart Naphtha" with Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark powder. Did evap test on solvent, worked out pretty good.

Crystals turned out very white. I used "RED HOT DEVIL LYE", with a lady on a can.

I'm wondering if white crystals are OK and whether I need a heptane wash or something? I am drying it currently, pics will be ready soon.

Hi there, welcome.
Sounds like a success to me, have a read of this:

IMPORTANT: spice color purity fallacy AKA is your dmt ok to smoke ?

I wanted to deal with an issue that commonly arises here. Often people ask 'is this spice ok to smoke', followed by some picture of some crystals or the description of the color of the spice. What I want to argue here is that spice color and how it looks is a very poor indicator of possible...

forum.dmt-nexus.me

The main thing is that a sample of your naphtha evaporates cleanly; if it doesn't, that is when you ought to use the heptane for a recrystallisation (re-x). Have a look through the forum and try out the search function to find out more about this.

 

[elgranada]

First extraction