psilocybin
Rising Star
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official extraction help thread
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This confirms what I was suspecting, that it was a shiny new dish. [Wouldn't I have looked super-clever if I'd have asked that beforehand]
If you want the crystals to form at the bottom of a brand new dish, lightly scratching it with a hard object before use will suffice. Doesn't have to be visible, even - no gouges necessary! And if you scratch in a specific shape, this should demonstrate that it does in fact work as stated.
In summary, your hypothesis appears sound.
I'll give it too ya I seen your comments about scratching the surface. I'll definitely be doing this in future practises.Another thing if you don't mind me asking, I CANNOT
seem to evap any crystals into existence. Freeze precip is the only time I've seen crystal form.I am working with leiocalyx so there is that aspect of it but that aside, if I can freeze it surely I can evap it?
When evaporated all I am left with is the clear oil and a little yellow (depending on the pull)
Freeze precipitation relies on the solubility curve of DMT to work as it does. Evaporation deposits all the dissolved components more or less simultaneously, making an amorphous product all the more likely. I can't comment specifically on any given species of acacia.
Another thing if you don't mind me asking, I CANNOT
I am working with leiocalyx so there is that aspect of it but that aside, if I can freeze it surely I can evap it?
When evaporated all I am left with is the clear oil and a little yellow (depending on the pull)
fractals4life
Titanium Teammate
We're going to at least need some estimates here ... did you buy a known quantity of bark, and can you guess whether you put roughly, say, 1/2 or 1/3rd or 1/10th of it?
What type of bark is it? Was it powdered or shredded or whole chunks?
Since these extractions aren't too fussy if you're not worried about not wasting anything, then here's a very rough idea that should at least get you some product out, otherwise get a scale, measure things properly, and follow a proper tek.
The below is crude and almost certainly not the most efficient in use of your time or ingredients:
Water: you need enough to make the bark / water mix fluid and not too viscous. This is so you can mix things properly and so the solvent will separate properly later when you mix it in. About 750ml for 50g to 100g bark is good in a 1l container.
Lye: Add a little at a time and stir until dissolved, when the mix goes black then you're at about the right ph, add another teaspoon or two for luck.
Solvent: use a small amount (say 20 - 50ml) so that you stand a better chance of having a saturated solution of DMT in your solvent, which means that it will precipitate out properly when chilled in the freezer.
What type of bark is it? Was it powdered or shredded or whole chunks?
Since these extractions aren't too fussy if you're not worried about not wasting anything, then here's a very rough idea that should at least get you some product out, otherwise get a scale, measure things properly, and follow a proper tek.
The below is crude and almost certainly not the most efficient in use of your time or ingredients:
Water: you need enough to make the bark / water mix fluid and not too viscous. This is so you can mix things properly and so the solvent will separate properly later when you mix it in. About 750ml for 50g to 100g bark is good in a 1l container.
Lye: Add a little at a time and stir until dissolved, when the mix goes black then you're at about the right ph, add another teaspoon or two for luck.
Solvent: use a small amount (say 20 - 50ml) so that you stand a better chance of having a saturated solution of DMT in your solvent, which means that it will precipitate out properly when chilled in the freezer.
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IKilledSanta
Esteemed member
I want to do Noman's A/B tek to extract my MHRB, but I can't find the required materials.
Where I live, it's hard to get those things.
The tek requires:
- Lye
- Vinegar
- VM+P Naptha
I managed to get Caustic Soda (Lye?) from the hardware store, and regular white vinegar from the supermarket, but I can't find Naptha. Does it go by any other name? which stores should I look for? Is there any replacement for that?
Thanks!
Where I live, it's hard to get those things.
The tek requires:
- Lye
- Vinegar
- VM+P Naptha
I managed to get Caustic Soda (Lye?) from the hardware store, and regular white vinegar from the supermarket, but I can't find Naptha. Does it go by any other name? which stores should I look for? Is there any replacement for that?
Thanks!
It does, look at MSDS sheets of available solvents in your area. They'll list naphtha, heptane, hexane etc as solvent make ups.
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IKilledSanta
Esteemed member
Thanks!
So i'll take a second look at the hardware store.
What should be the purity of those ingredients? Is it okay if my Lye is only 50% naOH?
Should the solvent be 100% naphtha/heptane?
EDIT:
1. I found a 99% lye. This should be good, right?
2. I found "Minerals spiritthiner type 1" and the ingredients are: Naphta and hydrodeslfurized heavy. Is the okay?
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"Naphtha, hydrodesulfurised heavy" is the description of just the one component. Naming conventions can take a bit of getting used to, not to mention the minefield that hydrocarbon solvent nomenclature makes!
You would be better off using a light or medium naphtha. At the very least, check that your solvent evaporates cleanly. You can extract with heavy naphtha but you would have to clean up the product by recrystallising it several times from a light naphtha, heptane or hexanes, or by using a mini A/B.
IKilledSanta
Esteemed member
ah, good to know!
I'll search in a few more stores. Thanks!
Also posted some suggestions here:
IKilledSanta
Esteemed member
Should be OK, if possibly a little expensive. The 99% lye will also be good enough.
Icarosa
Rising Star
Hi everyone ! First time poster here. I live in Europe and over here the term Naphta isn't used at all. I was trying to find the European alternative and found "essence C" and "essence F". If i understand correctly the "C" is like light Naphta and "F" is heavy ..? So i should go with the C i guess ? I'd just like some confirmations to avoid ruining my mimosa or my health...
Also if I want to make changa with it. Is Isopropyl alcohol the best option to dissolve the dmt in plant material ?
Also if I want to make changa with it. Is Isopropyl alcohol the best option to dissolve the dmt in plant material ?
Hello, fellow European, and welcome to the Nexus!
Essence C sounds like your best bet if it has a boiling range below 100°C. Essence F may also do the job but you'd have to be wary of it evaporating cleanly. There are also methods which use other solvents (i.e. no naphtha) although you'd have a harder time getting crystalline product with most of those.
IPA dissolves DMT very well, although it's a much poorer solvent for harmala alkaloids - the other essential component of changa unless your smoking substrate is already rich in them (e.g. caapi leaf/bark). Ethanol would be a better choice if you wanted to dissolve harmala alkaloids, although this isn't entirely a crucial issue. (And herbs plus DMT is preferably referred to as "enhanced leaf".)
Icarosa
Rising Star
Thank you Transform ! I went on a hunt for several hours yesterday but could only find essence F... So i went back home and found some "C" online.. Just have to be a bit more patient, but I'd rather do it with the best possible conditions...
As for Ethanol, the purest one i could find here is 96% and is for cleaning fireplace windows... Would that do ? (i feel like Europe is much more strict than the US on what chemicals you can buy...)
One last thing, in the process i'm following, it states to warm the naphta (essence C) and the mimosa with the NaOH between 55 and 80 degrees celsius before mixing them together. Isn't that dangerous if the boiling point of essence C is between 60 and 100 degrees ??? (source : chatgpt...) should i leave the lid on while warming them ?
As for Ethanol, the purest one i could find here is 96% and is for cleaning fireplace windows... Would that do ? (i feel like Europe is much more strict than the US on what chemicals you can buy...)
One last thing, in the process i'm following, it states to warm the naphta (essence C) and the mimosa with the NaOH between 55 and 80 degrees celsius before mixing them together. Isn't that dangerous if the boiling point of essence C is between 60 and 100 degrees ??? (source : chatgpt...) should i leave the lid on while warming them ?
Have you checked whether your essence F evaporates cleanly yet?
Also, it is not strictly necessary to warm the base 'soup' - in fact, it's often reported that crystals with a cleaner appearance are obtained with room-temperature naphtha. In any case, if you were to mix the naphtha into the mimosa/NaOH solution fairly soon after dissolving the NaOH it will still be somewhat warm from the heat given out in the hydration process.
The essence C would certainly be giving off flammable vapours even if you let the soup cool down completely, so it's a matter of putting this hazard into perspective. And yes, don't add your solvent to a mixture that is at a temperature higher than the boiling point of that solvent, or even approaching it.
Taking suitable precautions, like eliminating all possible sources of ignition and ensuring suitable ventilation, makes an essential part of your safety procedure. On that note, make sure you use proper eye protection when handling NaOH - this is equally as important as avoiding the flammability and explosion hazards.
96% ethanol is the maximum percentage that can be obtained through normal distillation. Check to see whether it has any denaturants listed on the label. I get small amounts of denaturant-free ethanol from a natural cosmetic ingredients supplier (albeit not in France, and it's relatively expensive).
Part of the trick is to work out what other commercial uses these solvents might have.
donfoolio
Established member
Hey, I think we live in the same country. Essence F normally does the job, but I prefer lighter fuel that can be found on cigarette stores - it is a little bit more expensive but give always good results and evaps clean.
Icarosa
Rising Star
Thanks for all the infos ! I did not end up buying any "F", i'll just wait for delivery of the "C" if it doesn't evaporate cleanly I'll check for some Zippo lighter fluid. (I imagine i just pour a bit in a glass and see if there are any deposits after evaporation ..?)
Oh ok... strange about the warming, I thought i had read somewhere to absolutely do it but maybe the reaction with NaOH is enough.. In any case if I end up warming it i'll go below 50 degrees and outside just to make sure. Thanks about the warning for the eyes, i'll get something.
About ethanol; i see thanks, i'll double check labels
Here's what the wiki has to say about the evaporation test. I should add that the pyrex dish needs to be scrupulously clean - detergent residues can cause a false positive for what looks like a small amount of evaporation residue. Another thing for the To Do list…