psilocybin
Rising Star
Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
This confirms what I was suspecting, that it was a shiny new dish. [Wouldn't I have looked super-clever if I'd have asked that beforehand]
If you want the crystals to form at the bottom of a brand new dish, lightly scratching it with a hard object before use will suffice. Doesn't have to be visible, even - no gouges necessary! And if you scratch in a specific shape, this should demonstrate that it does in fact work as stated.
In summary, your hypothesis appears sound.
Freeze precipitation relies on the solubility curve of DMT to work as it does. Evaporation deposits all the dissolved components more or less simultaneously, making an amorphous product all the more likely. I can't comment specifically on any given species of acacia.I'll give it too ya I seen your comments about scratching the surface. I'll definitely be doing this in future practises.
Another thing if you don't mind me asking, I CANNOTseem to evap any crystals into existence. Freeze precip is the only time I've seen crystal form.
I am working with leiocalyx so there is that aspect of it but that aside, if I can freeze it surely I can evap it?
When evaporated all I am left with is the clear oil and a little yellow (depending on the pull)
Makes total sense dude. Cheers for your insightFreeze precipitation relies on the solubility curve of DMT to work as it does. Evaporation deposits all the dissolved components more or less simultaneously, making an amorphous product all the more likely. I can't comment specifically on any given species of acacia.
Can someone help me i am lost i got No scale and i put some of my bark in a beaker and water untill it got soaked and now i dont know how much lye and water i should put inAny questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
It does, look at MSDS sheets of available solvents in your area. They'll list naphtha, heptane, hexane etc as solvent make ups.I want to do Noman's A/B tek to extract my MHRB, but I can't find the required materials.
Where I live, it's hard to get those things.
The tek requires:
- Lye
- Vinegar
- VM+P Naptha
I managed to get Caustic Soda (Lye?) from the hardware store, and regular white vinegar from the supermarket, but I can't find Naptha. Does it go by any other name? which stores should I look for? Is there any replacement for that?
Thanks!
Thanks!It does, look at MSDS sheets of available solvents in hour area. They'll list naphtha, heptane, hexane etc as solvent make ups.
"Naphtha, hydrodesulfurised heavy" is the description of just the one component. Naming conventions can take a bit of getting used to, not to mention the minefield that hydrocarbon solvent nomenclature makes!2. I found "Minerals spiritthiner type 1" and the ingredients are: Naphta and hydrodeslfurized heavy. Is the okay?
ah, good to know!"Naphtha, hydrodesulfurised heavy" is the description of just the one component. Naming conventions can take a bit of getting used to, not to mention the minefield that hydrocarbon solvent nomenclature makes!
You would be better off using a light or medium naphtha. At the very least, check that your solvent evaporates cleanly. You can extract with heavy naphtha but you would have to clean up the product by recrystallising it several times from a light naphtha, heptane or hexanes, or by using a mini A/B.
Check this post for a few pointers:
Should be OK, if possibly a little expensive. The 99% lye will also be good enough.Okay, just bought a Zippo lighter fluid.
How's this as a solvent?
I did the evaporation test, and no residue was left behind. The glass was clean.
Can I use this?
Thanks!
Hello, fellow European, and welcome to the Nexus!Hi everyone ! First time poster here. I live in Europe and over here the term Naphta isn't used at all. I was trying to find the European alternative and found "essence C" and "essence F". If i understand correctly the "C" is like light Naphta and "F" is heavy ..? So i should go with the C i guess ? I'd just like some confirmations to avoid ruining my mimosa or my health...
Also if I want to make changa with it. Is Isopropyl alcohol the best option to dissolve the dmt in plant material ?
Have you checked whether your essence F evaporates cleanly yet?Thank you Transform ! I went on a hunt for several hours yesterday but could only find essence F... So i went back home and found some "C" online.. Just have to be a bit more patient, but I'd rather do it with the best possible conditions...
As for Ethanol, the purest one i could find here is 96% and is for cleaning fireplace windows... Would that do ? (i feel like Europe is much more strict than the US on what chemicals you can buy...)
One last thing, in the process i'm following, it states to warm the naphta (essence C) and the mimosa with the NaOH between 55 and 80 degrees celsius before mixing them together. Isn't that dangerous if the boiling point of essence C is between 60 and 100 degrees ??? (source : chatgpt...) should i leave the lid on while warming them ?
Hey, I think we live in the same country. Essence F normally does the job, but I prefer lighter fuel that can be found on cigarette stores - it is a little bit more expensive but give always good results and evaps clean.Hi everyone ! First time poster here. I live in Europe and over here the term Naphta isn't used at all. I was trying to find the European alternative and found "essence C" and "essence F". If i understand correctly the "C" is like light Naphta and "F" is heavy ..? So i should go with the C i guess ? I'd just like some confirmations to avoid ruining my mimosa or my health...
Also if I want to make changa with it. Is Isopropyl alcohol the best option to dissolve the dmt in plant material ?
Thanks for all the infos ! I did not end up buying any "F", i'll just wait for delivery of the "C" if it doesn't evaporate cleanly I'll check for some Zippo lighter fluid. (I imagine i just pour a bit in a glass and see if there are any deposits after evaporation ..?)Have you checked whether your essence F evaporates cleanly yet?
Also, it is not strictly necessary to warm the base 'soup' - in fact, it's often reported that crystals with a cleaner appearance are obtained with room-temperature naphtha. In any case, if you were to mix the naphtha into the mimosa/NaOH solution fairly soon after dissolving the NaOH it will still be somewhat warm from the heat given out in the hydration process.
The essence C would certainly be giving off flammable vapours even if you let the soup cool down completely, so it's a matter of putting this hazard into perspective. And yes, don't add your solvent to a mixture that is at a temperature higher than the boiling point of that solvent, or even approaching it.
Taking suitable precautions, like eliminating all possible sources of ignition and ensuring suitable ventilation, makes an essential part of your safety procedure. On that note, make sure you use proper eye protection when handling NaOH - this is equally as important as avoiding the flammability and explosion hazards.
96% ethanol is the maximum percentage that can be obtained through normal distillation. Check to see whether it has any denaturants listed on the label. I get small amounts of denaturant-free ethanol from a natural cosmetic ingredients supplier (albeit not in France, and it's relatively expensive).
Part of the trick is to work out what other commercial uses these solvents might have.