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official extraction help thread

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no I never used q21's tek, so I cant really help you with the naphtha loss in the sludge, maybe others with experience in this tek can say. I guess if you make enough pulls, the relative amount of dmt that will be trapped in the loss naphtha will be minimal.

I rather use limonene, also seems yields are better. Since I go for fumarate precipitation and later water conversion, I have no fear of solvent traces so I dont have to re-x. I would recommend you try limo next time. At least for me it made the whole thing even more special. And yeah man I think a lot of us know exactly what you mean with how much nicer it is to use something you've extracted yourself. Now imagine growing the plant, harvesting sustainably and then extracting, that has to feel amazing ;)
 
endlessness said:
no I never used q21's tek, so I cant really help you with the naphtha loss in the sludge, maybe others with experience in this tek can say. I guess if you make enough pulls, the relative amount of dmt that will be trapped in the loss naphtha will be minimal.

I rather use limonene, also seems yields are better. Since I go for fumarate precipitation and later water conversion, I have no fear of solvent traces so I dont have to re-x. I would recommend you try limo next time. At least for me it made the whole thing even more special. And yeah man I think a lot of us know exactly what you mean with how much nicer it is to use something you've extracted yourself. Now imagine growing the plant, harvesting sustainably and then extracting, that has to feel amazing ;)

Great I think that clears up on of the final questions SWIM had. So do you basically follow BLAB steps 4-6 then or is your water conversion something different or extra? SWIM wasn't sure if there was somewhere that made sense to wash in a Food Grade way here or if it was unnecessary due to the steps taken. He does remember Minxx saying in a thread that she washes her spice with just plain distilled water.

SWIM was planning on FASW>Sodium Carbonate solution exactly as lined out in BLAB 4b-6.
 
OK so I extracted about 3.8 grams from 2 lbs MHRB using A/B (following Volvins tek for the most part). Then I proceeded with a recrystallization with warm heptane and there was a lot of the yellow oily stuff at the bottom. I evaporated both in my vacuum chamber and I got exactly 1.9 of each substance. One is yellow and rock like the other what seems to be pure white NN-DMT crystals. Here are pictures. What exactly is the yellow stuff?? Is it DMT N-Oxide? It just seems really odd that it was exactly half

Edit: So I'm realizing it must be N-Oxide, but that usually stays gooey right?

Edit#2: I think after reading the DMT N-Oxide to freebase DMT thread I realized that I would have probably gotten more white dmt out of this recrystallization if I had stirred around the yellow gooey part at the bottom to free the DMT from it. Maybe I will do another recrystallization to try and get some more white stuff together, or could this be a waste of time?
 

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landfishd said:
Good one Endlessness, thanks. I recrystallized the yellow and got an additional 360mg of the white stuff. But the yellow stuff that remains is N-Oxide right?
Among other stuff, yes.

The more you try pulling from it (or in other words recrystallise out of it) with heptane the more dmt you will be removing and the more oily this residue will stay.
 
Chronic said:
I've seen you use Q21's tek endlessness (unless i misread/mixed up a post) do you usually re-X afterwards?
Also, while im asking ;) any tips on not losing Naphtha in the mix? Add more lime to make the mix very dry?

I follow the q21 tek. Despite the quality of the final product appears to be pretty clean, re-X removes even more impurities and produces a product even more clean, beautiful and delicious. I personally decided to always make a re-X, even when the product appears to be perfect.

Regarding the naphtha caught in the mix, I noticed the loss is so small that there is no reason to waste time with this. It is better to pay attention to evaporation, trying to minimize naphtha losses by working with closed jars, for example.
 
What do you experts think about this theory:

SWIM does an A/B extraction with an NPS called "X". X evaps without any residue but by itself it is toxic.
Solvent X evaps cleanly and dry crystals remain. Some of the X molecules might still be there trapped in the crystal structure.
SWIM dissolves the dry X contaminated crystals in pure ethanol (or some other non-toxic solvent), and let evap again.
Dry crystals form again, is this a good way of getting rid of "toxic solvent molecules trapped within crystal structures"?
 
a manske means saturating with salt the solution that contains harmalas. You shouldnt lose any yield with this process, the precipitation is pretty thorough.

You can check this guide, as it describes the whole process of extracting (if you dont know it yet). If you already have harmalas and just want to clean them up, just keep redissolving, filtering thoroughly to remove inactives, and reprecipitating again. Each time you do this it gets cleaner. You can do with salt saturation or also the base precipitation. I think successive base precipitations might clean it more, but there will probably be some yield loss (which at least to some extent its expected, since you want to clean it up, taking out impurities and therefore it becomes lighter).
 
Filtering fine particles is very difficult for me, I would prefer redissolving the dirty yields in water, super saturate with salt, let sit in the fridge and let the crystals precipitate (hope: while most of the impurities are still in solution state), and filter to keep the crystals and discard the water containing impurities.

Is this possible? or the impurities will precipitate too?
 
why is it difficult? The easiest filter is when the harmalas are dissolved, because you dont need a perfectly fine filter to catch the precipitating the harmalas. The best way to filter in this 'between-stage' is to use gradually tighter filters. First start with simple cloth in funnel, or very loose cotton plug (with a big layer on the wider part too, not just pressed cotton in the tight part). The ideal is that the speed of filtering is constant and quite significant but not too fast (because if its too fast its probably not filtering enough impurities). After its filtered, make a new and tighter cotton plug or similar..

Anyways you get the idea, the more you filter the better. Take it like meditation ;)

Its possible to not filter then and just precipitate, but I dont see why you wouldnt because it will make the product even cleaner and its not hard. The filtering with the crystals is definitely harder, so you want to get it as clean as possible before that happens (at least thats how I see it)
 
So many questions, another one:

SWIM has seen images of remained crystals in separatory funnels in the wiki. SWIM just bought one recently but doesn't know how to use it to separate the liquid from precipitates.
 
endlessness said:
why is it difficult? The easiest filter is when the harmalas are dissolved, because you dont need a perfectly fine filter to catch the precipitating the harmalas. The best way to filter in this 'between-stage' is to use gradually tighter filters. First start with simple cloth in funnel, or very loose cotton plug (with a big layer on the wider part too, not just pressed cotton in the tight part). The ideal is that the speed of filtering is constant and quite significant but not too fast (because if its too fast its probably not filtering enough impurities). After its filtered, make a new and tighter cotton plug or similar..

Anyways you get the idea, the more you filter the better. Take it like meditation ;)

Its possible to not filter then and just precipitate, but I dont see why you wouldnt because it will make the product even cleaner and its not hard. The filtering with the crystals is definitely harder, so you want to get it as clean as possible before that happens (at least thats how I see it)
Oh thank you endlessness, now I see I didn't even knew the proper stages of a correct filteration, What I did in the past was just trying to filter a very muddy solution through a very fine filter, the result? the filter stopped working after some ten mL and I got angry as hell :d Thanks again.
 
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