psilocybin
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Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
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official extraction help thread
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- dmt
triptonite
Rising Star
- Merits
- 42
Does my sister need to shred/pulverize her bark further? I'm gonna use A/B.
My sister would also appreciate additional information regarding acid cooking a bit larger pieces MHRB, will the alkaloids find their way through pieces (like the smaller one on the picture 2-3 mm). The question really is for her, pulverize more or cook longer? Shes also meaning that further pulverization will cause a certain loss in plant materials since the pulverizing causes DMT mimosa to escape in it's powdery form.
My sister also wants to know if it's in any way better to pull full spectrum with xylene before you pull spice with heptane. And separation DMT and the other alkaloids afterward, pro/cons?
"pulverized bark"
This picture shows before and after she to pulverize her bark.
My sister would also appreciate additional information regarding acid cooking a bit larger pieces MHRB, will the alkaloids find their way through pieces (like the smaller one on the picture 2-3 mm). The question really is for her, pulverize more or cook longer? Shes also meaning that further pulverization will cause a certain loss in plant materials since the pulverizing causes DMT mimosa to escape in it's powdery form.
My sister also wants to know if it's in any way better to pull full spectrum with xylene before you pull spice with heptane. And separation DMT and the other alkaloids afterward, pro/cons?
"pulverized bark"
This picture shows before and after she to pulverize her bark.
- Merits
- 112
Why is pulverizing losing plant materials? DMT is not escaping, you blend it and the whole thing stays there. Maybe some fine dust will fly around but thats a very small amoutn compared to the total amount. Also you can just wait a couple of mins before opening the blender, and put from the blender straight into a plastic bag and close so the powder isnt flying all over.
The more you powder the better. Just run it a bit more in the blender. Once I boiled mimosa which had big pieces and after hours of boiling i took one piece out, peeled the piece into thinner layers and the inside layers werent even wet yet, just barely moist, so yield would for sure be worse the less powdered it is.
I think its better to pull it all with xylene (yuck) or limonene, and later if you want to recrystalize the product using heptane. Pulling first with xylene/limonene and later with heptane is bad idea because xylene/limo dissolve dmt much better, so most/all your yield will be pulled before you pull with heptane.
If you use xylene or limonene, I suggest salting it out and later freebasing. Salt with FASA (or FASI for limonene) or FASW, or with vinegar, then freebase the resulting product. Evapping xylene is nasty and wasteful, much better to salt and reuse it. Limonene doesnt evap clean so you have to salt it
Good luck
The more you powder the better. Just run it a bit more in the blender. Once I boiled mimosa which had big pieces and after hours of boiling i took one piece out, peeled the piece into thinner layers and the inside layers werent even wet yet, just barely moist, so yield would for sure be worse the less powdered it is.
I think its better to pull it all with xylene (yuck) or limonene, and later if you want to recrystalize the product using heptane. Pulling first with xylene/limonene and later with heptane is bad idea because xylene/limo dissolve dmt much better, so most/all your yield will be pulled before you pull with heptane.
If you use xylene or limonene, I suggest salting it out and later freebasing. Salt with FASA (or FASI for limonene) or FASW, or with vinegar, then freebase the resulting product. Evapping xylene is nasty and wasteful, much better to salt and reuse it. Limonene doesnt evap clean so you have to salt it
Good luck
- Merits
- 112
You dont need naphtha for getting pure freebase dmt. Check BLAB tek in the wiki for instructions, if you have fumaric acid you should salt with FASW or FASI and then freebase with water crystalization for pure white dmt . Otherwise I heard that with acetic acid salting it works too to crystallize dmt out of water but only if you use lye (I tried with sodium carb and it didnt work, but dagger tried with lye and it does work).
Ideas for those having no luck.....
1 - persistance works, SWIM had more failed attempts than believable, close to 9 months of em'.
More dud extracts than I could count.
1a - 98% pure NaOH is fine, as is diggers shell. With crap plant material, use a lot and boil down.
2 - Definately defat, seems a double AB process such as Lextek will give pure joy from average material.
3 - Watch the humidity when evaping, seems to SWIM, if the air not dry, spice becomes mush, that evaps
into nothing at all - SWIM figures spice is decomposing too fast when water + 02 are around, at
room temp / pressure. SWIM would really like to try some vacuum distilling of sovlent, to
ensure it's supersaturated before it goes into the freezer. (any hints on DIY equip would be nice?)
Also watch the heat during Base stages, as it seems that over 50 degrees or so, the spice appears
to break down or dissappear from the jar ? (I believe freebase spice THEORETICALLY shouldn't
evap until ~ 120 ??)
.
3a - SWIM suspects if you don't defat enough - any residue lighter plant oils seems to completely
prevent crystalisation - when freezing - at least in shellite.
4 - A very dissappointing little jar, that was frozen but looked nothing was precipitated out, was
frozen, warmed, frozen, warmed, at least a dozen times. Finally bored of this, and not seeing
any 'snow' on the bottom - the shell was poured off - a massive spice crystal clear as glass
was stuck to the side, the likes of which I have rarely seen in pics....
It was so clear, it was invisible in the shellite!
5 - Never give up, nevwer swennder !!!!
PS - the glass like spice went yellow / milky after 24 hours or so, but it was EXTREMELY potent
(according to SWIM) and did not have a lot of 'head pressure' or nausea during onset, just pure joy.
1 - persistance works, SWIM had more failed attempts than believable, close to 9 months of em'.
More dud extracts than I could count.
1a - 98% pure NaOH is fine, as is diggers shell. With crap plant material, use a lot and boil down.
2 - Definately defat, seems a double AB process such as Lextek will give pure joy from average material.
3 - Watch the humidity when evaping, seems to SWIM, if the air not dry, spice becomes mush, that evaps
into nothing at all - SWIM figures spice is decomposing too fast when water + 02 are around, at
room temp / pressure. SWIM would really like to try some vacuum distilling of sovlent, to
ensure it's supersaturated before it goes into the freezer. (any hints on DIY equip would be nice?)
Also watch the heat during Base stages, as it seems that over 50 degrees or so, the spice appears
to break down or dissappear from the jar ? (I believe freebase spice THEORETICALLY shouldn't
evap until ~ 120 ??)
.
3a - SWIM suspects if you don't defat enough - any residue lighter plant oils seems to completely
prevent crystalisation - when freezing - at least in shellite.
4 - A very dissappointing little jar, that was frozen but looked nothing was precipitated out, was
frozen, warmed, frozen, warmed, at least a dozen times. Finally bored of this, and not seeing
any 'snow' on the bottom - the shell was poured off - a massive spice crystal clear as glass
was stuck to the side, the likes of which I have rarely seen in pics....
It was so clear, it was invisible in the shellite!
5 - Never give up, nevwer swennder !!!!
PS - the glass like spice went yellow / milky after 24 hours or so, but it was EXTREMELY potent
(according to SWIM) and did not have a lot of 'head pressure' or nausea during onset, just pure joy.
- Merits
- 42
Wingchun - I am guessing you are from Australia or somewhere in Oceania from your use of shellite? So are you using Acacia? Very important when giving advice to identify your source material! 
Most here use MHRB, so:
Defats are completely unnecessary and a waste of time and solvent with root bark, which contains next to no plant oils.
With MHRB teks, A/B or STB, I never heat, and consistently get 1.2-1.8% yields of yellowish to pure white crystals. Heating IMO is unnecessary and only introduces the possibility of the RNS (Red Naptha Syndrome. Yes I just coined the phrase8) )
To my knowledge, plant fats and oils should not hinder crystalization. Most fats and oils, if any exist at all in the naptha solution (see above), will sit on the top of the naptha, perhaps a little coating the crystals, but not much - unless you are evapping with oil rich source material and not freeze precipping.
You mentioned having a lot of failures in your first extractions... were you following teks here? and, again, what was your source material? If it wasn't MHRB, I strongly suggest procuring some - it'll improve your success rate and make your life a whole lot easier!!:d
Good luck,
JBArk
Most here use MHRB, so:
Defats are completely unnecessary and a waste of time and solvent with root bark, which contains next to no plant oils.
With MHRB teks, A/B or STB, I never heat, and consistently get 1.2-1.8% yields of yellowish to pure white crystals. Heating IMO is unnecessary and only introduces the possibility of the RNS (Red Naptha Syndrome. Yes I just coined the phrase8) )
To my knowledge, plant fats and oils should not hinder crystalization. Most fats and oils, if any exist at all in the naptha solution (see above), will sit on the top of the naptha, perhaps a little coating the crystals, but not much - unless you are evapping with oil rich source material and not freeze precipping.
You mentioned having a lot of failures in your first extractions... were you following teks here? and, again, what was your source material? If it wasn't MHRB, I strongly suggest procuring some - it'll improve your success rate and make your life a whole lot easier!!:d
Good luck,
JBArk
hydrocarbon
Rising Star
- Merits
- 42
endlessness said:
Thank you for the tip. That sounds much easier than my plan to freebase twice and freeze precip with naptha. I assume the IPA should be 99% rather than the more easily acquirable 91% available at pharmacies?
Problem:
I used petroleum as solvent, which turned out to be not ideal. It takes AGES (or days/weeks) to evaporate. And still there is some oily residu in my crystal jars.
So i went to shop to get something else. I found "wasbenzine" in dutch, or washing gas? Improperly translated.
I checked if it evaporates well by pouring a little bit on a shiny metal dish.
> The new solvent evaporated in 10min. (almost none of the petroleum has evaporated after 2hours, so this could be a major improvement)
When i poured the new solvent on the shiny metal dish it evaporated pretty quick, and the dish coloured in like rainbow colours.
Like when you see gas floating on top of water. It has this shiny pearly colour. Is this a bad residu?
Thanks
*Sorry, wrong thread. I was multibrowsing and used the wrong window. (The other one had the chemicals thread and i'm not finding a delete button)
I used petroleum as solvent, which turned out to be not ideal. It takes AGES (or days/weeks) to evaporate. And still there is some oily residu in my crystal jars.
So i went to shop to get something else. I found "wasbenzine" in dutch, or washing gas? Improperly translated.
I checked if it evaporates well by pouring a little bit on a shiny metal dish.
> The new solvent evaporated in 10min. (almost none of the petroleum has evaporated after 2hours, so this could be a major improvement)
When i poured the new solvent on the shiny metal dish it evaporated pretty quick, and the dish coloured in like rainbow colours.
Like when you see gas floating on top of water. It has this shiny pearly colour. Is this a bad residu?
Thanks
*Sorry, wrong thread. I was multibrowsing and used the wrong window. (The other one had the chemicals thread and i'm not finding a delete button)
- Merits
- 112
could be undissolved lye yeah... anyways once you add the non-polar solvent, if its dmt it will dissolve in the solvent, and any undissolved lye wont.
But just mix it well and if its lye it should dissolve. How much did you add, what color is the whole mix?
But just mix it well and if its lye it should dissolve. How much did you add, what color is the whole mix?
- Merits
- 112
100g lye to how much water/bark?
black sounds good, I guess youre good to go, just add solvent, stir, separate and keep going.
black sounds good, I guess youre good to go, just add solvent, stir, separate and keep going.
Thanks JBark - for your thoughts - here are some replies
Yeah from oz, using acacia florabunda, and longfolia.
It would be nice to try some MHRB - next we meet, I'll swap some Acacia
for some MHRB - (I don't shop online, and can't buy it local)
Re Heat, I am using less heat as my experience grows, but I have
a lot of trouble getting enough spice into the shellite, without heat.
JBark said-"
To my knowledge, plant fats and oils should not hinder crystalization. Most fats and oils, if any exist at all in the naptha solution (see above), will sit on the top of the naptha, perhaps a little coating the crystals, but not much - unless you are evapping with oil rich source material and not freeze precipping."
Err, my understanding is Naptha/shellite are non-polar, and disolve oils pretty well ???
I certainly got no crystals till I learnt to get most of the other oils out.
Have been following the Teks here - starting to develop my own, but following
a double AB process.
Yeah from oz, using acacia florabunda, and longfolia.
It would be nice to try some MHRB - next we meet, I'll swap some Acacia
for some MHRB - (I don't shop online, and can't buy it local)
Re Heat, I am using less heat as my experience grows, but I have
a lot of trouble getting enough spice into the shellite, without heat.
JBark said-"
To my knowledge, plant fats and oils should not hinder crystalization. Most fats and oils, if any exist at all in the naptha solution (see above), will sit on the top of the naptha, perhaps a little coating the crystals, but not much - unless you are evapping with oil rich source material and not freeze precipping."
Err, my understanding is Naptha/shellite are non-polar, and disolve oils pretty well ???
I certainly got no crystals till I learnt to get most of the other oils out.
Have been following the Teks here - starting to develop my own, but following
a double AB process.
i am trying a harmala extraction with 3x syrian rue powder right now, but after i added the salt solution nothing precipitated out. I added some sodium carbonate to basify, and after this i poured the solution through a coffee filter to see if anything precipitated since it was too dark to see anything in the jar.
After a couple days of waiting, the liquid finally drained through and all i have left now is a dark brown mush that is the consistency of mud. I'm not sure what this is, but i have a feeling it might not be anything i want. Anybody else have this kind of experience?
After a couple days of waiting, the liquid finally drained through and all i have left now is a dark brown mush that is the consistency of mud. I'm not sure what this is, but i have a feeling it might not be anything i want. Anybody else have this kind of experience?
- Merits
- 112
Added salt solution? You should saturate with salt the whole thing, not just add salt solution. Check the harmala extraction guide in the wiki
The mud is probably your very impure alkaloids. Redissolve in hot acidified water, re-salt, re-basify. check the guide
The mud is probably your very impure alkaloids. Redissolve in hot acidified water, re-salt, re-basify. check the guide
One is going to be conducting his/her first extraction soon enough. One wants to know the procedure by heart and have no qualms before one begins. There is a general puzzlement present when reading Noman's Tek.
Why does the last NP extraction have to be left out for 1-2 days with occasional rolling around on the floor, while the others are in the freezer? Shouldn't all of the collection jars be outside for 1-2 days with occasional agitation, and then be placed in the freezer?
One assumes that this step should be done in a fresh, clean collection jar. How much naphtha should be used when redissolving the crystals? How should one mix the sodium carbonate solution with the naphtha/DMT solvent -- by shaking the jar or stirring? How does one go about separating this mixture -- by separation funnel? If that is the case, then which layer would contain the DMT? The naphtha or the sodium carbonate/water solution? Does one discard the water through coffee filtration? Would the end solvent have to be filtered again after freezing?
Also, is recrystallization absolutely necessary? One does not have the means to heat it because one owns a gas stove. Plus it just seems too dangerous after reading the warnings of the fumes being extremely flammable.
This separation is done easily with a lab separation funnel, so the Tek says. How would one do this, though? Does one just empty the whole contents of the mixing jar in the separation funnel? Does the separation funnel automatically separate the naphtha from the bark? If this is the case, should one pour the bark mixture back in the original mixing jar from the separation funnel?
Why does the last NP extraction have to be left out for 1-2 days with occasional rolling around on the floor, while the others are in the freezer? Shouldn't all of the collection jars be outside for 1-2 days with occasional agitation, and then be placed in the freezer?
One assumes that this step should be done in a fresh, clean collection jar. How much naphtha should be used when redissolving the crystals? How should one mix the sodium carbonate solution with the naphtha/DMT solvent -- by shaking the jar or stirring? How does one go about separating this mixture -- by separation funnel? If that is the case, then which layer would contain the DMT? The naphtha or the sodium carbonate/water solution? Does one discard the water through coffee filtration? Would the end solvent have to be filtered again after freezing?
Also, is recrystallization absolutely necessary? One does not have the means to heat it because one owns a gas stove. Plus it just seems too dangerous after reading the warnings of the fumes being extremely flammable.
thanks endlessness. I am guessing it is better to add salt straight to the solution instead of dissolving it in water and then adding it. I have already tried dissolving the mush in hot water/vinegar but only some of it dissolved, so the rest must be junk i'm sure.
- Merits
- 112
easyrider said:
Yeah it can be separatory funnel or pull with pippette/glass syringe/turkey baster. Check FAQ for tips on separation too. Yeah you could pour the contents of mixing jar into separatory funnel. And just like the naphtha raises (like water and oil separate), so it will happen the same in the separatory funnel. Drain the bottom part until there's just naphtha left. You can add a bit of water to wash down remains of basic liquid stuck to the separatory funnel walls and then drain the bottom layer of washed water and you'll have clean solvent in your separatory funnel
easyrider said:
The last extraction is left so that this gives the naphtha the change to pick up the last 'stubborn' dmt that didnt get pulled yet with the first pulls. Btw I wouldnt roll on the floor, personally I rather mix with a wooden spoon or something, but as long as its mixed, whatever strategy you have is fine (dont shake though).
The collection jars will only be naphtha and they wont have the mimosa together with them, so why would you leave them out and agitate once in a while?
easyrider said:
Check FAQ for washing and recrystallization instructions. You shouldnt have open fire near solvent, pre-boil some water and do a warm water bath with solvent for re-x, as FAQ says.
The solvent will contain the dmt. Separation of washing is same as with before, either glass syringe/turkey baster/etc or sep funnel. No need to filter anything during the wash.
As for if recrystallization (and wash) is really necessary, depends, check the FAQ and this thread too:
good luck
