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Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
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official extraction help thread
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Hello guys!
I'm doing my firsts extractions with some mimosa inner root bark i grabed from mimosa itself and prepared a powder from it. I used the Norman's tek, for each 15ml of water, i used 1g of powdered MHRB and 1g of lye! Total of 4,750l of water, 317g of MHRB powder and 317g of lye! Let it sit for around 1h, and then i poured a solvent that i encontered here in Brazil that we call Benzina, or eter de petroleo, that translating, its petroleum ether. i used 300ml of room temprature petroleum ether, stired the solution for 5 minutes or so, and than took it out with a pipet. Than, i used the volvin's tek wash with sodium carbonate. just 25ml of destiled water with a pinch of sodium carbonate powder. shaked the solvent with this water, separated the water, than did the same 'shaking water with solvent' process twice but now with pure destiled water. after this washing process, i placed all the solvent in a glass plate and placed a silk cloth in the top of it. than, placed a fan in front of it and waited. when the solvent was all gone, i saw in the plate something that seamed to be water goticules (maybe because i'm in a tropical country, in a city with high air humidity?). waited longer, after all the "water" was gone, and saw some crystals on it, but the rest seams to be a fine layer of some oily transparent substance. do i need to let it evaporate more time? it stayed in front of the fan until all liquid solvent we could see was gone, than let it evaporate for about 16h. Now we have some crystals on the plate, but they are not white and it took way longer to form crystals than it was said in the lazyman's tek (2.5h for 1g, including evap time with fan), not seaming to have 1g in the plate!
I'm doing my firsts extractions with some mimosa inner root bark i grabed from mimosa itself and prepared a powder from it. I used the Norman's tek, for each 15ml of water, i used 1g of powdered MHRB and 1g of lye! Total of 4,750l of water, 317g of MHRB powder and 317g of lye! Let it sit for around 1h, and then i poured a solvent that i encontered here in Brazil that we call Benzina, or eter de petroleo, that translating, its petroleum ether. i used 300ml of room temprature petroleum ether, stired the solution for 5 minutes or so, and than took it out with a pipet. Than, i used the volvin's tek wash with sodium carbonate. just 25ml of destiled water with a pinch of sodium carbonate powder. shaked the solvent with this water, separated the water, than did the same 'shaking water with solvent' process twice but now with pure destiled water. after this washing process, i placed all the solvent in a glass plate and placed a silk cloth in the top of it. than, placed a fan in front of it and waited. when the solvent was all gone, i saw in the plate something that seamed to be water goticules (maybe because i'm in a tropical country, in a city with high air humidity?). waited longer, after all the "water" was gone, and saw some crystals on it, but the rest seams to be a fine layer of some oily transparent substance. do i need to let it evaporate more time? it stayed in front of the fan until all liquid solvent we could see was gone, than let it evaporate for about 16h. Now we have some crystals on the plate, but they are not white and it took way longer to form crystals than it was said in the lazyman's tek (2.5h for 1g, including evap time with fan), not seaming to have 1g in the plate!
Another question I have about the process is: do we have to let the solvent evaporate in a dark place? does light interferes with dmt molecule?
And, after taking the solvent out of the solution with MHRB, cant i just put a becker with the solvent in a grill and let it boil to evaporate quicker?? Or even put the becker taken out of the freezer, after taking the liquid solvent from it and place it in a eletric oven at 60-80ºC to make the dry process faster? or all this heat may break the dmt molecule?
And, after taking the solvent out of the solution with MHRB, cant i just put a becker with the solvent in a grill and let it boil to evaporate quicker?? Or even put the becker taken out of the freezer, after taking the liquid solvent from it and place it in a eletric oven at 60-80ºC to make the dry process faster? or all this heat may break the dmt molecule?
I am about to acid soak acacia plant matter using a variant of Nen888's method. (90% water 5% white vinegar 5% methylated spirits). I don't have the spirits at hand, so I am wondering if there is any benefit or danger to getting a head start with the water/vinegar overnight.
The plant matter is mostly stems, twigs and the bark from small branches (All taken in small amounts, dispersed amongst a number of trees). When I ground some of this material, it was less dry than I had thought it would be. Would it be better to just let this dry a bit more?
Thanks in advance for any help, or insight.
The plant matter is mostly stems, twigs and the bark from small branches (All taken in small amounts, dispersed amongst a number of trees). When I ground some of this material, it was less dry than I had thought it would be. Would it be better to just let this dry a bit more?
Thanks in advance for any help, or insight.
Hello there. I have been searching through this forum for the last few days, and I must say, there is a wealth of information here, and it's nice to see people being so helpful.
I had some questions regarding partially evaporating the naphtha before placing it it the freezer. I've been googling around, and can't seem to find an exact answer. I'll start with what I did, first:
I was able to get some nice, yellow naptha using Noman's STB tek with 100 g powdered MHRB. I used 100 g NaOH and 1250 mL dis. H2O.
I only used ~50 mL of Naptha per pull, because I read it would make it easier for the crystals to precipitate out of solution in the freezer.
For the pulls, I turned the jars end over end a few times after adding naptha heated to 110 F, then let settle for a few minutes, then repeated the process several times.
After the last agitation and separating, I took a turkey baster, sucked up as much naptha as I could, along with with some of the aqueous lye/MHRB solution, since a turkey baster isn't exactly a precision instrument.
I emptied all of this into a small cylinder that allowed me to get the naphtha out with an eyedropper after it had separated.
I then put the jars immediately into the freezer. (I did 4 pulls so far from 2 separate mixing jars)
So about 24 hours later, there do appear to be some crystals forming or floating in the jar, although this could possibly be ice. There doesn't appear to be a really viable amount yet, and there really is nothing on the walls of the containers.
I'm going to wait a little longer, but if nothing happens, should I partially evaporate the naphtha off then put the jars back in the freezer?
If so, what's the best way of doing this? Some kind of hot water bath or just exposed to air? Also, how long should it take to evaporate about 20-30% of ~50 mL? I used Klean Strip VM+P Naphtha.
Or should I use more Naphtha and wait longer on the pulls? Each jar contains roughly 50 mL of yellow colored naphtha.
Like I said, I'm going to wait a little longer to see if more crystals form, but I am about ready to do a few more pulls that have been in the mixing jars all day, and was wondering about a partial evap to make the naphtha more saturated.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated. I should note this is my first time doing a spice extraction, so I've only been going on what I've learned online, and what little bit I can remember from a year of college organic chemistry. That was a few years ago though.
I had some questions regarding partially evaporating the naphtha before placing it it the freezer. I've been googling around, and can't seem to find an exact answer. I'll start with what I did, first:
I was able to get some nice, yellow naptha using Noman's STB tek with 100 g powdered MHRB. I used 100 g NaOH and 1250 mL dis. H2O.
I only used ~50 mL of Naptha per pull, because I read it would make it easier for the crystals to precipitate out of solution in the freezer.
For the pulls, I turned the jars end over end a few times after adding naptha heated to 110 F, then let settle for a few minutes, then repeated the process several times.
After the last agitation and separating, I took a turkey baster, sucked up as much naptha as I could, along with with some of the aqueous lye/MHRB solution, since a turkey baster isn't exactly a precision instrument.
I emptied all of this into a small cylinder that allowed me to get the naphtha out with an eyedropper after it had separated.
I then put the jars immediately into the freezer. (I did 4 pulls so far from 2 separate mixing jars)
So about 24 hours later, there do appear to be some crystals forming or floating in the jar, although this could possibly be ice. There doesn't appear to be a really viable amount yet, and there really is nothing on the walls of the containers.
I'm going to wait a little longer, but if nothing happens, should I partially evaporate the naphtha off then put the jars back in the freezer?
If so, what's the best way of doing this? Some kind of hot water bath or just exposed to air? Also, how long should it take to evaporate about 20-30% of ~50 mL? I used Klean Strip VM+P Naphtha.
Or should I use more Naphtha and wait longer on the pulls? Each jar contains roughly 50 mL of yellow colored naphtha.
Like I said, I'm going to wait a little longer to see if more crystals form, but I am about ready to do a few more pulls that have been in the mixing jars all day, and was wondering about a partial evap to make the naphtha more saturated.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated. I should note this is my first time doing a spice extraction, so I've only been going on what I've learned online, and what little bit I can remember from a year of college organic chemistry. That was a few years ago though.
The Unknowing
Life is a dream, the heart a compass
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When cultivating bark from an Acacia, is it more desirable to use older trees in terms of DMT yields?
---ooo0ooo---
Rising Star
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OneEyeAscension said:
I'd recommend reading the Acacia thread in the collaborative research section.
Essentially, there is no need to harvest bark - particularly trunk or root bark - from a lot of the Acacia trees. Rather, you're better off concentrating of phyllodes and stems/twigs. For a lot of varieties, these are the same alkaloidal content % as bark and a hell of a lot easier to collect.
Best of all, this type of collection can be done relatively sustainably compared to trunk or root bark where even the removal of the smallest amount will damage the tree.
fractalelf said:
Dear Friend, I encourage you to take a step back and let the stress wash off before re-approaching the extraction. I am finding that frustration and doubt amass very quickly without prior knowledge. The most important factor is, undoubtedly, patience. Re-reading and cross-referencing as much as possible is also incredibly useful. And yes, at every single step, full filtration and letting solutions settle (unless specifically stated otherwise) seem to be important for success in the following step. I share your concern with keeping the plant spirit in tact. Allow your intention to be the protective force that carries the spirit through to the end. The reality is that these plants contain many compounds that are not instructive to the experience and may even be detrimental to clarity during travel. May ease of execution pervade your future endeavors, fair companion.
esoterra said:
{EDITED} As the process continues, doubts have been eliminated ^
Also, adding vinegar to help manske salt-crystals dissolve is supported. Cross-reference! reactions and products may resemble images of those in one tek much more closely than another.A few clarifying questions for those well practiced.
-With regard to post-final basing of alkaloids, is it advisable to "wash" precipitated harmalas with water, to rinse off unwanted chems, or do they run the risk of being dissolved?
-Are "yellow prussiate of soda" and other anti-caking agents equally as important to avoid as iodine with regard to salt? Crystals have formed in it's presence, however, yield is suspect.
-How many mg harmaline+harmine can be expected from a 3x manske/base purification of 1500g syrian rue?
-How might additional harmalas find their way out of filters/cotton balls/excess liquid, and into a freebase-state most efficiently?
Many thanks, many blessings. May our path be laden with light.
-With regard to post-final basing of alkaloids, is it advisable to "wash" precipitated harmalas with water, to rinse off unwanted chems, or do they run the risk of being dissolved?
-Are "yellow prussiate of soda" and other anti-caking agents equally as important to avoid as iodine with regard to salt? Crystals have formed in it's presence, however, yield is suspect.
-How many mg harmaline+harmine can be expected from a 3x manske/base purification of 1500g syrian rue?
-How might additional harmalas find their way out of filters/cotton balls/excess liquid, and into a freebase-state most efficiently?
Many thanks, many blessings. May our path be laden with light.
Hi all
i have a small problem as after putting the glass with naphta in the freezer and getting those crystals dmt , when i take it out and poured the naphta to let those crystals dry they all disapear
after 20mn at room temp under a small fan ??
anyone has any idea about the issue ??
Peace ..
i have a small problem as after putting the glass with naphta in the freezer and getting those crystals dmt , when i take it out and poured the naphta to let those crystals dry they all disapear
after 20mn at room temp under a small fan ??anyone has any idea about the issue ??
Peace ..
fractalelf
Rising Star
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Much appreciated wisdom!esoterra said:
My fears were based on troubling experiences with Syrian rue. I found the more traditional ayahuasca herbs can be much more gentle and easily consumed, and even pleasant to use by themselves. I recommend them highly, especially for first-timers.
It may be simply a lack of extraction experience, or perhaps the spirit of Syrian Rue was trying to tell me something! I find myself grateful for unpleasant teachings so that I could move beyond.
For Dreadyer: I have always tried collecting the crystals ASAP before they re-dissolve. I believe my freezer might be especially cold, because normal ice sublimates quickly, leaving ice-trays empty! I have had some success putting crystals suspended in cold naptha onto absorbent coffee filters, then back into the freezer. Unfortunately some fibers get scraped off along with the DMT crystals afterwards, so this is less than ideal.
I did 3 recrystallization of my spice and its still a little bit yellow,can it still be any lye in it if i did it right?The colour i hope its from the plant
Thx
Heated upp the hephtane to 60 degress C and removed the spice that was melted in the glass to another one.I did leave some hephtane in the bottom even if i didnt got any "oil" there after i waited 10 minutes
Thx
Heated upp the hephtane to 60 degress C and removed the spice that was melted in the glass to another one.I did leave some hephtane in the bottom even if i didnt got any "oil" there after i waited 10 minutes
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A slight yellow tint is quite normal and sometimes preferable. After 3 Re-x's I can say that you be fine with that.
The residue that is left can still be used as it still contains spice. It might just smoke differently.
The residue that is left can still be used as it still contains spice. It might just smoke differently.
Hi all
I tried my first extraction yesterday with 100g powdered MHRB, the tech I am trying is Q2121's food grade extraction tech. Everything seemed to go well until the non-polar wash, I put the bark/calsium hydroxide in a hot water bath and added the naphtha. I then stirred it for approx 7 minutes. It seems like the bark/calsium hydroxide absorbed most of the naphtha and it's not separating. Any idea how I could change/fix this?
Thanks in advance
I tried my first extraction yesterday with 100g powdered MHRB, the tech I am trying is Q2121's food grade extraction tech. Everything seemed to go well until the non-polar wash, I put the bark/calsium hydroxide in a hot water bath and added the naphtha. I then stirred it for approx 7 minutes. It seems like the bark/calsium hydroxide absorbed most of the naphtha and it's not separating. Any idea how I could change/fix this?
Thanks in advance
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- 25,307
Dn588 said:
This has been mentioned before in quite a few threads. You can add more nap to the mix and the best suggestion I've seen is to squeeze the mix through a t shirt or some sort of filter or even press it with a wooden spoon against the side of the container...wring it out of the mix (filter/separate particulates after that)...then carry on
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Hi there,Dn588 said:
I have no experience with this tek but I've read that people often either add more naphtha or they try to squeeze the bark/calcium hydroxide/naphtha mix through a t-shirt or other cloth.
Thanks Cyb and Infundibulum will try that. Anyone with experience doing Q2121's tech did I do something wrong? When doing the non-polar wash should it be stirred much or just a bit? Should the naphtha mix in completely with the bark/Calsium hydroxide or should it stay 2 separate layers?
Deadhead22
Digital circus
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Ok so I need some help I'm doing an a/b extraction and every time I try to freeze precip the naphtha a sheet of white appears at the bottom so I drain the naphtha and set the jar in the freezer upside down to drain all leftover solvent after I come back to I after a couple hours the white sheet on the bottom remains so I let sit for a few minutes to observe what happens and it seems to melt into even more naphtha and I try to evap that and Almost nothing is there afterwords. Any help would be appreciated I've been working on it a while now I can't figur out what keeps happening
