psilocybin
Rising Star
Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
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official extraction help thread
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beakon you are hardly making any sense.. it really seems like you did not understand the process of what you are talking about.. For example, you say that amongst the things in the mix, there is sodium carbonate and citric acid... well, one is a base, the other is an acid, so depending on how much of each the pH of your solution will be different.. if pH is high, the alkaloids will be soluble in limonene.. if pH is low, they WONT be soluble in limonene. So the fact you didnt understand this yet, which is like THE basic chemical aspect of extractions, shows you have not read enough. Separating and putting the limo in some ammonia, where did you get that from?! go to the nexus wiki and read some teks again to get a hang on whats going on..
JOrrit, it depends.. The more saturated the naphtha is, the less reduction in temperature will be needed for alkaloids to start precipitating.. So make small and hot naphtha pulls (dont heat with any open fire!! warm water bath instead), and after sticking in the freezer, some alks should crash, but probably there will still be some in the naphtha, so just reuse that naphtha for more pulls, and after you've done 5+ pulls, evap the naphtha till the end to retrieve any remaining dmt that didnt crash from it.
JOrrit, it depends.. The more saturated the naphtha is, the less reduction in temperature will be needed for alkaloids to start precipitating.. So make small and hot naphtha pulls (dont heat with any open fire!! warm water bath instead), and after sticking in the freezer, some alks should crash, but probably there will still be some in the naphtha, so just reuse that naphtha for more pulls, and after you've done 5+ pulls, evap the naphtha till the end to retrieve any remaining dmt that didnt crash from it.
Thanks for your quick reply!!! How can I see that there are really dmt crystals in it? I see a couple of floating crystals but when I try to take them off and put them on a plate or something they will immediately melt again. When I wait there will be nu powder or crystals what so ever. So that's make me think that that are just water crystals ( ice )? I'm putting it in half an hour in a freezer that's approximately -20 degrees celcius instead of - 6 degrees celcius, hope that'll work....
you have to wait way longer than half an hour.. more like, 12-24 hours.. the crystals should be quite obvious, and usually stuck to the sides/bottom of the container (which should be closed so water doesnt get in while its inside the freezer).
after those 12-24 hours, remove the container from freezer, quickly pour the naphtha out (through a coffee filter just in case there are any floating crystals, and remember to keep/reuse this naphtha), and put the lid back on the container, and put it upside down into the freezer for another couple of hours. This will make sure remaining naphtha trapped in the crystals will drop off to the lid. So the after those couple of hours you take out the cntainer, open it letting the remaining drops on the lid fall off, and scrape the crystals, putting them on a plate or on top of a coffee filter to finish air drying
good luck
after those 12-24 hours, remove the container from freezer, quickly pour the naphtha out (through a coffee filter just in case there are any floating crystals, and remember to keep/reuse this naphtha), and put the lid back on the container, and put it upside down into the freezer for another couple of hours. This will make sure remaining naphtha trapped in the crystals will drop off to the lid. So the after those couple of hours you take out the cntainer, open it letting the remaining drops on the lid fall off, and scrape the crystals, putting them on a plate or on top of a coffee filter to finish air drying
good luck
snowboarder3
Rising Star
Hello friends,
I started an extraction last night using about 600g of MHRB, 1 lb of lye, and about 3/5 of a gallon of water in a water jug. After dissolving the lye I added the MHRB and it seemed very thick and viscous. I added about 400 ml of naphtha and agitated for a while and tried to separate the lye and naphtha, but my naphtha is dark dark red like MHRB lye water. Am I fucked? I think I used too much MHRB
I started an extraction last night using about 600g of MHRB, 1 lb of lye, and about 3/5 of a gallon of water in a water jug. After dissolving the lye I added the MHRB and it seemed very thick and viscous. I added about 400 ml of naphtha and agitated for a while and tried to separate the lye and naphtha, but my naphtha is dark dark red like MHRB lye water. Am I fucked? I think I used too much MHRB
HyperD
Rising Star
Ya said:Hi HyperD
A member here named Q21Q21 kindly wrote a very simple summary here:
(Q21Q21 and SnozzleBerry also explain how to SAFELY heat your container.)
Yeah, perhaps the heat is less important for those of us who have powder.
Still, since I'm a first-timer like you, I'm going to follow Q21Q21's summary.
Thx
HyperD
Rising Star
When follow The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark i have some thoughts
When it says : then pour the naphtha off of the basified mix and into another container for complete evaporation.
1)Can someone explain why i have to evaporaze?
2)Cant i just put the container with naphtha in the freezer to get dmt next day?
3)What is a good way to do good evaporation?
When it says : then pour the naphtha off of the basified mix and into another container for complete evaporation.
1)Can someone explain why i have to evaporaze?
2)Cant i just put the container with naphtha in the freezer to get dmt next day?
3)What is a good way to do good evaporation?
boonefrog
Rising Star
When doing q21q21's tek, SWIM has found that the first naptha pull gets almost entirely soaked up by the bark-goo (so that none can be poured off). SWIM would say it's evaporation but subsequent pulls don't evaporate at all. keeping with the recommended ratio, 2nd-3rd-4th pulls all seemed like wayy more naptha than it just being "visible on the sides" as recommended.
This worries SWIM - It's as if the bark-goo gets saturated and subsequent pulls aren't getting any goodies. Plus he hasn't experienced the bark-goo "staying brown" as q21q21 stated it would when you are extracting goodies.
background: followed tek perfectly except used 220g MHRB (all other ratios the same), used crock pot at constant temp of 120-145°F instead of bowls, waited 4 hours to do 1st pull & total of four pulls done over the next 2 hours, and currently waiting for the massive 800+ ml of naptha to reduce down to about 300 before freeze precipping...
UPDATE: SWIM may have gotten a 1.6g yield from 220 MHRB, a ~0.75% total from 4 pulls. Any ideas on why the yield is lower and the aforementioned questions?
This worries SWIM - It's as if the bark-goo gets saturated and subsequent pulls aren't getting any goodies. Plus he hasn't experienced the bark-goo "staying brown" as q21q21 stated it would when you are extracting goodies.
background: followed tek perfectly except used 220g MHRB (all other ratios the same), used crock pot at constant temp of 120-145°F instead of bowls, waited 4 hours to do 1st pull & total of four pulls done over the next 2 hours, and currently waiting for the massive 800+ ml of naptha to reduce down to about 300 before freeze precipping...
UPDATE: SWIM may have gotten a 1.6g yield from 220 MHRB, a ~0.75% total from 4 pulls. Any ideas on why the yield is lower and the aforementioned questions?
Muttley
Rising Star
Hi.
I hope I'm posting in the right place...
SWIM knew about aya but just learned about freebase DMT:lol: . Because there are many different acacia growing wildly where he lives (he as yet not identified), he decided to give it a try. After reading a few teks he decided to go STB because PH meters aren't easy to come by and caustic soda is sold in every supermarket very cheap (sodium hydroxide 98% - 1Kg = 2 Euro). Now he has a couple questions about solvents:
There are many different brands of zippo fuel, and ronsonol is surprisingly hard to get. he could only find in a small hardware store one forgotten can (133ml) very old and rusty. it says "petroleum spirit 1271". a more common zippo fuel is David Ross "petroleum spirit 1268". are these OK for extraction? they seem to evap cleanly, but smell different. He found this list
List of UN numbers 1201 to 1300 - Wikipedia but he knows very little about chemistry.
Other possible source for solvents are paint thinners. he found 2 that may (or not) work: the first contains naphtha, medium aliphatic and xylene. it seems to evap cleanly, but takes a looong time. he thinks using this would extract not only DMT, and freeze precipitate may not work. right?
The second one is article number 8020 from Dyrup and contains naphtha (PETROLEUM) HYDROTREATED heavy (what is it?). there are also this numbers 265-150-3 and 265-191-7. he googled it, but once again chemistry knowledge is missing... the safety security sheet is here Tintas DYRUP - dyrup.pt sorry couldn't find it in English.
Is any of these suitable for DMT extraction? if so, which one is the best choice?
Thanks.
Sorry about the English, I know its not very good...
I hope I'm posting in the right place...
SWIM knew about aya but just learned about freebase DMT:lol: . Because there are many different acacia growing wildly where he lives (he as yet not identified), he decided to give it a try. After reading a few teks he decided to go STB because PH meters aren't easy to come by and caustic soda is sold in every supermarket very cheap (sodium hydroxide 98% - 1Kg = 2 Euro). Now he has a couple questions about solvents:
There are many different brands of zippo fuel, and ronsonol is surprisingly hard to get. he could only find in a small hardware store one forgotten can (133ml) very old and rusty. it says "petroleum spirit 1271". a more common zippo fuel is David Ross "petroleum spirit 1268". are these OK for extraction? they seem to evap cleanly, but smell different. He found this list
List of UN numbers 1201 to 1300 - Wikipedia but he knows very little about chemistry.
Other possible source for solvents are paint thinners. he found 2 that may (or not) work: the first contains naphtha, medium aliphatic and xylene. it seems to evap cleanly, but takes a looong time. he thinks using this would extract not only DMT, and freeze precipitate may not work. right?
The second one is article number 8020 from Dyrup and contains naphtha (PETROLEUM) HYDROTREATED heavy (what is it?). there are also this numbers 265-150-3 and 265-191-7. he googled it, but once again chemistry knowledge is missing... the safety security sheet is here Tintas DYRUP - dyrup.pt sorry couldn't find it in English.
Is any of these suitable for DMT extraction? if so, which one is the best choice?
Thanks.
Sorry about the English, I know its not very good...
How should this step be adjusted if I use "Advaced Nutrients pH UP" in place of NaOH(Lye)?
2.Prepare some basified water by fully dissolving 200 g (~13 measured tablespoons full) of NaOH powder into 2 L of tap water in a large measuring cup.
2.Prepare some basified water by fully dissolving 200 g (~13 measured tablespoons full) of NaOH powder into 2 L of tap water in a large measuring cup.
Steely: what does it contain?
Muttley: yeah the xylene containing solvent wont work for freeze precip. I would stay away from the heavy stuff.. The ones with the UN number, its hard to say, its just 'petroleum distilates' but doesnt say which fractions (heavy, light, if it has aromatics or only aliphatics,), and neither about purity
I guess most of them would work one way or another, just remember using stuff that evaps cleanly only.. You can try looking into limonene extractions too.
good luck
Muttley: yeah the xylene containing solvent wont work for freeze precip. I would stay away from the heavy stuff.. The ones with the UN number, its hard to say, its just 'petroleum distilates' but doesnt say which fractions (heavy, light, if it has aromatics or only aliphatics,), and neither about purity
I guess most of them would work one way or another, just remember using stuff that evaps cleanly only.. You can try looking into limonene extractions too.
good luck
I already answered steely in another thread. It's pure KOH solution.
۩ said:
Thanks for that. I thought it would be best to post that question in my thread and the thread that was specificly made for those questions. Ordered some MHRB for the first time from "100hg". The plan... It's coming into fruition!
medium aliphatic sounds ok yeah.. do an evap test to see if it leaves residue..
did you try googling the specific brand SWIY can find? Sometimes one can find MSDS or more info in general of the components. But yeah in general terms it should work
did you try googling the specific brand SWIY can find? Sometimes one can find MSDS or more info in general of the components. But yeah in general terms it should work
Muttley
Rising Star
well... SWIM evaporated a small sample (about 1 drop from a eye dropper)of this solvent on a very clean surface and the only residue left is a very tiny bit of liquid (1% or less from sample volume) that seems unable to evaporate, even after 2 hours.
Googling the brand only results links do their on-line shop. the info available is the same as on the bottle label...
Googling the components... well, the label says: contains naphtha, xylene, and medium aliphatic. SWIM knows what are the first two....
anyway it didn't evaporate completely, SWIM feels it's a bad idea using it... (or could the residue be harmless?)
SWIM will browse some more hardware stores, but is also considering to order some limonene from the internet.
Thx.
Googling the brand only results links do their on-line shop. the info available is the same as on the bottle label...
Googling the components... well, the label says: contains naphtha, xylene, and medium aliphatic. SWIM knows what are the first two....
anyway it didn't evaporate completely, SWIM feels it's a bad idea using it... (or could the residue be harmless?)
SWIM will browse some more hardware stores, but is also considering to order some limonene from the internet.
Thx.
leaving residue doesnt sound good.. but give it some more time to see if it evaps.. xylene will mean you cant freeze precipitate and also that it will pull some more plant oils and the so-called 'jungle spice', so it wont be pure dmt.
keep looking for hardware stores yeah.. Well I think limo is anyways muuuuuuuuch nicer to work with, but you'll change a bit of the process (you cant evaporate it, have to salt out your alkaloid with some acidic solution, and then freebase that.. )
keep looking for hardware stores yeah.. Well I think limo is anyways muuuuuuuuch nicer to work with, but you'll change a bit of the process (you cant evaporate it, have to salt out your alkaloid with some acidic solution, and then freebase that.. )
