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official extraction help thread

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Namaste nexians!

I've got a lot of FASW saturated with DMT and it takes forever to evap it. If I put it in the oven, would that be a shortcut to reducing the amount I need to evap? I'm worried the DMT would just evap along with the water... because the last time I boiled DMT water, I was getting high off the steam...
 
I wouldn't microwave. If you have to evaporate, you can do it with a slow cooker full of water on high like a double broiler, which I would guess would eventually get up to around 140F-150F after a few hours and would reduce your liquid in a day or so...
 
A question on safe evaporation: If one lives in a trailer, the heat is propane which does lgiht outside , but not worth the chance. If you were going to evaporate in an outbuilding with no heat but electricity, iwonder if the oldfashoin portable heater with the glowing red filiments and fan would be safe? A quartz heater is not much different but the fan is not strong. anyone know if naptha(vm+p) ignition point could be set off by that? If you think about it, how much different is that glowing wire from a cigarette butt? could probabaly preheat room with portable, then use an oilheater which does not have much heat, just radiant. I think i seen something about hairdryers which isnt much different than the portable heater. One must be safe!
 
So Ive got a question about something I havent ever seen discussed here: At the end of an STB tek, one has a jug of basic "mimosa soup" as its often referred to around here. Instead of tossing this out and making a new basic solution next time you want to extract, couldnt you just save the solution, and put more MHRB into it next time you want to extract? Obviously at some point its going to become more mhrb than basic solution, but lets say youre just using 100 grams of MHRB at a time, in a milk jug. Couldn't you use the same soup several times? Would your yield be much lower? Thanks for any replies!
 
Emptymind, your solution might be so thick that it sticks to the walls of your jug making it impossible to see the solvent layer you are trying to remove. I dont know why you would want to keep a solution of spent mhrb. Youre better off just tossing it.


Ive got a question of my own:

I dont trust naphtha any more, Im just starting to get over my light-headedness that has lasted over 5 days after smoking tainted spice. Im going to do a 99% ipa wash. My question is, do i need to heat my ipa before i try to dissolve goodies into it, or will it dissolve at room temperature?
 
it will dissolve at room temperature.. warming it up will make you need less, but room temp should be fine. By the way thats not technicaly a wash, since wash would mean the solvent you use to wash will not dissolve the goodies, and I guess you understand that all dmt will dissolve.

Also, if you can, I suggest using acetone instead since it evaporates easier/faster, or grain alcohol/non-denatured ethanol, since thats food safe, but IPA should be fine too..
 
acetone toxic? acetone is present in fruits and its a part of human metabolism. You dont want to drink a glass of it, of course, but small amounts that you might be exposed to are harmless, and appart from that, it has a very low boiling point, so it evaps super fast and if you just let it airdry for a while this means it wont be in your final product
 
check BLAB tek for the fumarate to freebase conversion using slow water crystallization.. So make some fumarates out of your freebase and then convert them back using that method... At least thats what I found to work the best. Just make sure to use the least amount of hot water as possible to dissolve your fumarates, to aid crystallization once you add the sodium carbonate.
 
Hello fellow Nexians SWIM has a question about using using laboratory gear for extractions. SWIM wanted to invest into some serious lab gear so that SWIM may have the best product possible but SWIM was not quite sure what exactly SWIM needed and didn't need. This was basically the kit SWIM was going to invest in:
2000 ml 3-neck Round bottom Flask
1000 ml 2-neck Round bottom Flask
1000 ml single neck Round bottom Flask
500 ml single neck Round bottom Flask
250 ml single neck Round bottom Flask
Vacuum (Bent, 105 degree) Adapter
75 Degree Connecting Adapter 24/40
Claisen Adapter 24/40
Parallel Joints Distillation Adapter 24/40
300mm Graham Condenser
300mm West Condenser
300mm Allihn Condenser
400mm Vigreux Distillation column(300mm effective length)
2 x Threaded Thermometer Adapter (w/Nylon bushing top)
5 x Glass Stopper (to use instead of the Threaded Thermometer Adapter or as necessary)
2 x Full length 0°C to 300°C Thermometer
10 x 24/40 plastic Keck Clamps (to hold together the different units)
250mL Separatory funnel with 24/40 top & bottom joints
16in glass vacuum desiccator
sorry in advance for the wall of text and thank you:)
 
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