psilocybin
Rising Star
Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
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official extraction help thread
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1. Mix and let separate 4 times (or more if you feel like it)...this may take upto 30mins or more...depends how long it takes for the solvent to rise.
See here
2. 30-50ml per pull is a good guide...depends on how accessible the solvent is (ie how far up the neck of the bottle)...combine all pulls together and reduce in quantity by evap...then continue.
See here
2. 30-50ml per pull is a good guide...depends on how accessible the solvent is (ie how far up the neck of the bottle)...combine all pulls together and reduce in quantity by evap...then continue.
Tranzcentral
Rising Star
cyb said:1. Mix and let separate 4 times (or more if you feel like it)...this may take upto 30mins or more...depends how long it takes for the solvent to rise.
See here
2. 30-50ml per pull is a good guide...depends on how accessible the solvent is (ie how far up the neck of the bottle)...combine all pulls together and reduce in quantity by evap...then continue.
Fantastic, thank you so much for that Cyb, greatly appreciated.
Looking forward to performing your Tek, thanks again.
I just tried to extract harmalas from rue with this tek. However I couldn't complete it. After adding sodium carbonate for the first time (step 10) and letting the alkaloids precipitate, I filtered them out, dried them and dissolved the results in vodka.
I'm concerned whether this stuff still contains sodium carbonate? I don't mind if it still contains vasicine etc. Sorry I don't understand chemistry at all, but could someone tell me whether this tincture of mine is safe to use?
I'm concerned whether this stuff still contains sodium carbonate? I don't mind if it still contains vasicine etc. Sorry I don't understand chemistry at all, but could someone tell me whether this tincture of mine is safe to use?
Du57mi73
Rising Star
dooble. sodium carbonate is safe to ingest in very small amounts. if you still worry about it you can evaporate your vodka. absorb it into distilled water, basify lightly, do a nps pull, evaporate that and reabsorb it into more vodka. be sure to let your nps sit so that all of the basic water settles.
TheHornedOne
Rising Star
Re-x failure. SWIM took all his extractions, which varied from yellow crystals to brown goo and melted everything in warm naptha, then let it sit for a few hours before putting in the fridge for a few hours, then the freezer overnight. This is the result.
Looks more like white balls then crystals. Also, most of the crystal still appears to be suspended in the naptha. Any suggestions? The tek I followed for re-x, , says after this the naptha should be clear.
Any suggestions?
Looks more like white balls then crystals. Also, most of the crystal still appears to be suspended in the naptha. Any suggestions? The tek I followed for re-x, , says after this the naptha should be clear.
Any suggestions?
TheHornedOne
Rising Star
Those white spots are actually some water that ended up in the solution. They seem to be interfering with chrystallization. Tried getting the water drops out with a pipette but it's rather tricky. Any tips?
Edit: SWIM heated it back up in a bath to re-dissolve the spice, then siphoned the naptha off from the water droplets with a pipette. Round 2.
Edit: SWIM heated it back up in a bath to re-dissolve the spice, then siphoned the naptha off from the water droplets with a pipette. Round 2.
Tranzcentral
Rising Star
A good syringe will suck that water straight out.
Baster is no good at all.
I have a few chromo syringes i bought from ebay awhile ago, they work great.
Baster is no good at all.
I have a few chromo syringes i bought from ebay awhile ago, they work great.
Mimosa_Man
Rising Star
I happen to have a large amount (2,850ml) of 99.8% Methanol.
I was wondering if when re-xing I could substitute Methanol for IPA or other solvents?
I've done a fair bit of research into the matter (about an hour's worth) and cannot find a "for sure" answer on the matter.
I can not easily obtain 99%IPA so I would prefer to use what I've already got at hand.
this left me quite confused : What I have read is that methanol is Polar? instead of Non-Polar? So the DMT would not be pulled into the methanol? or that instead of pulling only DMT it pulls the impurities you're trying to remove along anyway?
Could someone clear this up for me please?
Thank you in advance.
:?
I was wondering if when re-xing I could substitute Methanol for IPA or other solvents?
I've done a fair bit of research into the matter (about an hour's worth) and cannot find a "for sure" answer on the matter.
I can not easily obtain 99%IPA so I would prefer to use what I've already got at hand.
this left me quite confused : What I have read is that methanol is Polar? instead of Non-Polar? So the DMT would not be pulled into the methanol? or that instead of pulling only DMT it pulls the impurities you're trying to remove along anyway?
Could someone clear this up for me please?
Thank you in advance.
:?
slugware
Rising Star
Hello, travellers
I did 3 extractions using Cyb's hybrid salt tek, as i am newbie and just getting into spice extraction. I have relatively good results from these extractions. I try to follow the tek by the letter. Only thing i deviate is the time involved into the process. As i asked in my previous posts in this thread, i leave the basified mix overnight, and that does seem ok to my humble knowledge so far.
My first extraction yielded pretty white and fluffy crystals, about 0.8 g from 50 g mhrb. My second and third extractions though gave me yellowish and gummy material. I already re-xed the second batch once, have smoked 3 times from it, and the last time i had a really frightening expreince. So i suppose there might be some bad impurities left in there and i will re-x it two more times and will re-x my 3rd batch three times.
I got lab grade chemicals now - acetic acid (which i used since my first extraction), NaOH and NaCl. I don't want to use table salt anymore, cause as it seems all the commercially available salt in my country is iodised. I also got acetone for cleaning the spice and will try to make changa with it.
A thing i want to change is the base i use. Although i got this lab clean NaOH, i prefer using some other base, preferably a foodsafe one. I read on the FAQ section Potassium Hydroxide might be used for basifying, when applying A/B tek . I also see that some people use Lime for that purpose, but suppsedly for Dry teks.
So has anyone used any of those bases in that tek. I'm interested to know if someone has used KOH for basifying in this particular tek or Cyb's MaxIon tek(I think i'm going to try it next times)
I read that KOH is pretty well soluble in water, as where pickling lime is not that soluble. What would you people advise me.
I can still use that NaOH, but prefer to get some food-safe chemical instead.
Blessings All!
I did 3 extractions using Cyb's hybrid salt tek, as i am newbie and just getting into spice extraction. I have relatively good results from these extractions. I try to follow the tek by the letter. Only thing i deviate is the time involved into the process. As i asked in my previous posts in this thread, i leave the basified mix overnight, and that does seem ok to my humble knowledge so far.
My first extraction yielded pretty white and fluffy crystals, about 0.8 g from 50 g mhrb. My second and third extractions though gave me yellowish and gummy material. I already re-xed the second batch once, have smoked 3 times from it, and the last time i had a really frightening expreince. So i suppose there might be some bad impurities left in there and i will re-x it two more times and will re-x my 3rd batch three times.
I got lab grade chemicals now - acetic acid (which i used since my first extraction), NaOH and NaCl. I don't want to use table salt anymore, cause as it seems all the commercially available salt in my country is iodised. I also got acetone for cleaning the spice and will try to make changa with it.
A thing i want to change is the base i use. Although i got this lab clean NaOH, i prefer using some other base, preferably a foodsafe one. I read on the FAQ section Potassium Hydroxide might be used for basifying, when applying A/B tek . I also see that some people use Lime for that purpose, but suppsedly for Dry teks.
So has anyone used any of those bases in that tek. I'm interested to know if someone has used KOH for basifying in this particular tek or Cyb's MaxIon tek(I think i'm going to try it next times)
I read that KOH is pretty well soluble in water, as where pickling lime is not that soluble. What would you people advise me.
I can still use that NaOH, but prefer to get some food-safe chemical instead.
Blessings All!
Du57mi73
Rising Star
KOH and NaOH are prefered but CaOH is used by many of us here. KOH and NaOH are almost identical in strength. CaOH is weaker which is why its used in dry teks, also because it causes weird emulsions due to the calcium making colloidal particles. Look into foodsafe teks if you want food safe chems. I never understood the need for foodsafe chemicals. because if you do an extraction correctly then you wont have any of the chems left over in your final product. Especially if youre vaporizing or pyrolizing your spice, it doesnt matter which base you use.
slugware
Rising Star
Thanks for clarification, Du57mi73
Well, i thought KOH could be little less toxic than NaOH, but i don't have much knowledge of chemistry, so i wanted to ask.
I have three things in mind that need to be improved in my extraction process. Find a good glass vessel with a glass cap preferably and a suitable thin-neck shape for nps-pulls. Get a better understanding of appropriate temperatures on the acid/salt/base steps. On my first extraction as soon as naphtha separated on the top the very first time it was transparent as it originally is. On my following extractions, i noticed that naphtha get a yellowish color just as it separated the first time. And as far as i remember, this happened to all the four pulls. I do not heat the solvent, just put room temp it in the basified mix which on the other hand i place in a warm water bath. I also notice that the solvent remains transparently yellowish as soon as i pull and it hits the dish.
Other thing that could have caused might be too big difference in temperature of solvent (coming out slightly warmed in the basified mix) and temperature of the dish (room-temp). I might have also not evaporated it the right way.
I suppose that what i have in my final product is more likely to me some solvent trapped in the spice? It could also be fats from the plant, but that didn't happen the first time, which is what confuses me. The only thing i changed for 2nd and 3rd extractions is the salt. And a little bit more of water to get the mixture level high enough in the bottle so that nps would stay in its thin part. But that was just 50-100 ml more water. Could this have resulted the yellowish final product. If i change the ratio of water per the same ratio of bark/acid/salt/NaOH , could that drastically change the pH, thus letting more plant fats and other alkaloids in final product? Each time i used 30 g NaOH, as Cyb's tek suggests 50 g. I know there are many factors and variables involved but i am just trying to figure it out before doing next extraction.
I used Zippo Lighter Fluid these 3 times. Might be a silly thing to ask but could the age of the solvent have any influence on how it reacts with compounds? I mean, is it possible that if it's older, it would collect more fats and other alkaloids?
I got all lab grade chemicals now, glass pipettes, will get a glass reaction vessel as those used in labs, just to avoid reaction between base and metal cap. Just want to clear things up as much as possible. I have in mind a reaction vessel like this one :
Only thing that worries me is it going to be thin enough for solvent collection with a pipette
Well, i thought KOH could be little less toxic than NaOH, but i don't have much knowledge of chemistry, so i wanted to ask.
I have three things in mind that need to be improved in my extraction process. Find a good glass vessel with a glass cap preferably and a suitable thin-neck shape for nps-pulls. Get a better understanding of appropriate temperatures on the acid/salt/base steps. On my first extraction as soon as naphtha separated on the top the very first time it was transparent as it originally is. On my following extractions, i noticed that naphtha get a yellowish color just as it separated the first time. And as far as i remember, this happened to all the four pulls. I do not heat the solvent, just put room temp it in the basified mix which on the other hand i place in a warm water bath. I also notice that the solvent remains transparently yellowish as soon as i pull and it hits the dish.
Other thing that could have caused might be too big difference in temperature of solvent (coming out slightly warmed in the basified mix) and temperature of the dish (room-temp). I might have also not evaporated it the right way.
I suppose that what i have in my final product is more likely to me some solvent trapped in the spice? It could also be fats from the plant, but that didn't happen the first time, which is what confuses me. The only thing i changed for 2nd and 3rd extractions is the salt. And a little bit more of water to get the mixture level high enough in the bottle so that nps would stay in its thin part. But that was just 50-100 ml more water. Could this have resulted the yellowish final product. If i change the ratio of water per the same ratio of bark/acid/salt/NaOH , could that drastically change the pH, thus letting more plant fats and other alkaloids in final product? Each time i used 30 g NaOH, as Cyb's tek suggests 50 g. I know there are many factors and variables involved but i am just trying to figure it out before doing next extraction.
I used Zippo Lighter Fluid these 3 times. Might be a silly thing to ask but could the age of the solvent have any influence on how it reacts with compounds? I mean, is it possible that if it's older, it would collect more fats and other alkaloids?
I got all lab grade chemicals now, glass pipettes, will get a glass reaction vessel as those used in labs, just to avoid reaction between base and metal cap. Just want to clear things up as much as possible. I have in mind a reaction vessel like this one :
Only thing that worries me is it going to be thin enough for solvent collection with a pipette
Du57mi73
Rising Star
That vessel looks perfect.
Its completely natural for your naptha pulls to turn yellow. The longer they sit touching the basic solution, the more oils they will pick up. So if your naptha was mixed several times into the basic solution or if left to sit/let emulsion settle for longer periods of time then that is what could have made it pick up yellowing. The yellowing is plant oils, btw. Another thing is that by adding salt into the solution it is making the water "push" out the oils more. That will also cause more yellowing faster.
But in all actuality, yellowing shouldnt matter that much. If you freeze precip then sufficiently dry out your spice then it doesnt matter how yellow it is, it is all good for the smoking.
Its completely natural for your naptha pulls to turn yellow. The longer they sit touching the basic solution, the more oils they will pick up. So if your naptha was mixed several times into the basic solution or if left to sit/let emulsion settle for longer periods of time then that is what could have made it pick up yellowing. The yellowing is plant oils, btw. Another thing is that by adding salt into the solution it is making the water "push" out the oils more. That will also cause more yellowing faster.
But in all actuality, yellowing shouldnt matter that much. If you freeze precip then sufficiently dry out your spice then it doesnt matter how yellow it is, it is all good for the smoking.
slugware
Rising Star
yep, i read people here state that yellowing of nps is from plant fats. I keep each pull for an hour (and mix/separate 4 times as suggested in Cyb's hybrid tek). Add the solvent, shake/mix vigorously/ then let it separate completely. My mix stays in a warm water bath, so it takes less than 15 minutes to separate. But just to be sure its completely separated, i start the next shaking 15 minutes after the previous one.
Guess i'll have to experiment a bit with temperatures. Suppose at some points mix gets too warm. Though i am careful not to get it hot. I check it like every two minutes, and if it gets too warm, take it out of water and place it on ground to cool down for a while. I also try to not warm up the water too much.
I did freeze precip on my third extraction and the results were good. I guess ill just stick to 3 X re-xing with that naphtha.
I don't mind spice being yellow, i do not aim to have perfectly white fluffy crystals, but i had an experience with that yellowish spice that really scared the shit out of me, i was doing some strange moves and gestures, and this is why now i settle my extraction approach so cautiously..And will have to involve and get better understanding of quality re-x methods.
Thanks for helping me out! Greatly appreciate it!
Guess i'll have to experiment a bit with temperatures. Suppose at some points mix gets too warm. Though i am careful not to get it hot. I check it like every two minutes, and if it gets too warm, take it out of water and place it on ground to cool down for a while. I also try to not warm up the water too much.
I did freeze precip on my third extraction and the results were good. I guess ill just stick to 3 X re-xing with that naphtha.
I don't mind spice being yellow, i do not aim to have perfectly white fluffy crystals, but i had an experience with that yellowish spice that really scared the shit out of me, i was doing some strange moves and gestures, and this is why now i settle my extraction approach so cautiously..And will have to involve and get better understanding of quality re-x methods.
Thanks for helping me out! Greatly appreciate it!
WhereEaglesDare
Rising Star
Hello fellow hyperspace travelers and spice extractors.
I am hoping to embark on my first extraction soon using Cyb's Hybrid ATB Salt Tek as it seems the most simple for a new extractor like myself. I must say its a brilliant document and illustrated perfectly with the diagram and photo's.
I have a few initial questions before I get all of the ingredients together.
Firstly is there a danger of any Lye tainting the final product? I understand the basic chemistry of the extraction but I know how nasty lye can be. Is there an alternative to using lye in this Tek? Also can you use "concentrated caustic soda" as some is branded as that.
Secondly lighter fluid is used as the naphtha, which is best in the UK from experience?
Thirdly, which is the easiest way to test its purity and that it is acaaully spice yo have extracted and are about to vape?
Fourth, I have looked in the suppliers section but I could not see any links for buying MHRB here in the UK but I am trying to find out if the company I found online is legitimate, is there any way to check this without breaking forum rules and posting a name??
SOrry for the noob questions I just want to make sure I am as prepared as possible before attempting anything.
I am hoping to embark on my first extraction soon using Cyb's Hybrid ATB Salt Tek as it seems the most simple for a new extractor like myself. I must say its a brilliant document and illustrated perfectly with the diagram and photo's.
I have a few initial questions before I get all of the ingredients together.
Firstly is there a danger of any Lye tainting the final product? I understand the basic chemistry of the extraction but I know how nasty lye can be. Is there an alternative to using lye in this Tek? Also can you use "concentrated caustic soda" as some is branded as that.
Secondly lighter fluid is used as the naphtha, which is best in the UK from experience?
Thirdly, which is the easiest way to test its purity and that it is acaaully spice yo have extracted and are about to vape?
Fourth, I have looked in the suppliers section but I could not see any links for buying MHRB here in the UK but I am trying to find out if the company I found online is legitimate, is there any way to check this without breaking forum rules and posting a name??
SOrry for the noob questions I just want to make sure I am as prepared as possible before attempting anything.
3rdI
veni, vidi, spici
1, just be very careful when separating the solvent from the base mix and you should be ok. I like to pull, then I pour the solvent through a syringe with cotton wool wadded in the bottom, this seems to catch a few micro particles that get sucked up, I will also let the solvent stand to see if anything gathers at the bottom before freezing. go to boots and buy "caustic soda" in a white bottle with a blue lable, alternative bases may be used but im not upto scratch on that with cybs tek.
I would advise getting a good glass syringe off ebay, it makes the job much easier.
2, swan is good to go.
3, multiple re-Xing should be good enough, you can also get substance tester kits if need be.
4, not on the Nexus
good luck:thumb_up:
I would advise getting a good glass syringe off ebay, it makes the job much easier.
2, swan is good to go.
3, multiple re-Xing should be good enough, you can also get substance tester kits if need be.
4, not on the Nexus
good luck:thumb_up:
WhereEaglesDare
Rising Star
3rdI said:
Thanks for answers. I am just worried about the lye and poisoning my fellow travellers/mates!
Also I am not sure my grinder will be able to fully powder the MHRB, does fully powered bark produce better yields or would small chuck still work?
3rdI
veni, vidi, spici
Poisoning your mates is a worry but if your careful you should be fine.
Get to wilko pick up a Russell hobs blender for 20 notes, then chop whole bark or put shredded straight in about 50g at a time. I also found it blends better if it comes straight out the freezer.
It still has some fibres but its powdered enough.
Get to wilko pick up a Russell hobs blender for 20 notes, then chop whole bark or put shredded straight in about 50g at a time. I also found it blends better if it comes straight out the freezer.
It still has some fibres but its powdered enough.
