psilocybin
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What method did you use? The crystals look nice and clean but that's not the same as a positive IDHey,
Finally got it working to salt over from FB with fumaric acid
Does this look legit?View attachment 109599View attachment 109600View attachment 109601
The acetone dried w/ dehydrated mag sulfate (filtered to catch the sulfate)
Water free fumaricacid 99,5% (food grade)
~ 50mg fb DMT crystals
~ 50mg fumaricacid
* Did dissolve the acid in a ~10ml acetone and the FB crystals in ~1ml acetone
* pipette dripping the acidic acetone into the basic solution
* Problem occured due my highly functional planing skills, was adding 10ml to the 1ml in a 5ml Glas
* was forced to pour all over to the bigger glass
* anyways the crystals dropped out when I first checked within 30-45 minutes? Didn't watch the time
End product is a bit more then 58mg, had some loss left in Glas.
Is there a difference in dropping the acidic solution into the basic solution and vise versa?
Or any improvement suggestions for the working steps?
Water free fumaricacid 99,5% (food grade)
~ 50mg fb DMT crystals
~ 50mg fumaricacid
* Did dissolve the acid in a ~10ml acetone and the FB crystals in ~1ml acetone
* pipette dripping the acidic acetone into the basic solution
* Problem occured due my highly functional planing skills, was adding 10ml to the 1ml in a 5ml Glas
* was forced to pour all over to the bigger glass
* anyways the crystals dropped out when I first checked within 30-45 minutes? Didn't watch the time
End product is a bit more then 58mg, had some loss left in Glas.
Is there a difference in dropping the acidic solution into the basic solution and vise versa?
Or any improvement suggestions for the working steps?
Dropping base into acid may here (maybe) result in smaller crystals (according to my in-brain simulation) because of the concentration differences but I could be entirely wrong either by having that backwards or by it turning out to be largely irrelevant. You could dilute the DMT solution to see if that helps with forming larger crystals.
My own FASA work was so long ago I've forgotten how it looked - and anyhow, I was developing a trick for doing FASA straight from naphtha (spike the naphtha with acetone to prevent FA from crashing out). [Or was it limonene?]
I think you've already identified the main improvement - start with a large enough beaker!
dan2granby
Rising Star
I'm just starting another salt extraction to celebrate my 50th birthday. I'm not intellectually gifted, so I've always stuck with the salt extraction method. I'm making it next week. If anyone knows of another easy way with a good yield, it would be great to know. ✌
If you did what you said you did it's exceedingly unlikely to be anything else. Very nice work, btw
Following is my latest recrystallized product.
My guess is that the yellow ->coating<- (probably polymered DMT) is result by using the petroleum 100/140 naphtha.
My hope was after the precipitating with ~40/60 naphtha I could get rid of this yellow coating.
The yellow is a bit darker or orange alike in RL then fotos show....
If I recrystallized with the 100/140 the yellow is pure dark orange and not just a coating, it is part of the crystals...?
Btw this Foto recrystallized product is recrystallized by using 40/60 naphtha.
Any opinions on the yellow/orange occurrence?
Just polymered, or maybe something else?
Any idea on why this is happening by the 100/140 naphtha?
When I did all steps with the 40/60 naphtha I had pure white product!
But the 100/140 is a big advantage in the work process! No need to hurry, when working with 40°C soup cause of evaporatibg nps.... And such...
My guess is that the yellow ->coating<- (probably polymered DMT) is result by using the petroleum 100/140 naphtha.
My hope was after the precipitating with ~40/60 naphtha I could get rid of this yellow coating.
The yellow is a bit darker or orange alike in RL then fotos show....
If I recrystallized with the 100/140 the yellow is pure dark orange and not just a coating, it is part of the crystals...?
Btw this Foto recrystallized product is recrystallized by using 40/60 naphtha.
Any opinions on the yellow/orange occurrence?
Just polymered, or maybe something else?
Any idea on why this is happening by the 100/140 naphtha?
When I did all steps with the 40/60 naphtha I had pure white product!
But the 100/140 is a big advantage in the work process! No need to hurry, when working with 40°C soup cause of evaporatibg nps.... And such...
dont weigh your fumaric acid, just make FASA like you make brine, by adding excess acid. if you make a mistake, im pretty sure the surplus acid will clump up and hold onto that moisture.
also, store your dry fumaric acid with silica gel, magnesium sulfate, or ideally, anhydrous calcium chloride. actually sodium hydroxide would be even more potent but if it deliquesces its going to trash the container you use. two thimbles, one with a dessicant, the other your material, in a sealed jar works, but you can make satchels for dry-dessicants just by folding paper into little satchels.
also try drying the acid with warm air too, its mildly hygroscopic iirc.
not saying your FA was wet, but, it was not not wet if it didnt come in a glass jar with dessicant inside.
idk what the actual purpose of having it be saturated is, more acid is better, and with acetone, less is better here, dmt fumarate may be mildly soluble in acetone, so saturating it ensures everything crashes out. that might be all there is to it, keeping acetone use to a minimum for whatever reason.
as for the yellowing, theres 2 things:
1: DMT is never the only triptamine, and FASA is not going to distinguish between them much. other spices are known to have fancy colors.
2: DMT has polymorphs, under certain conditions it will form crystals that look and behave differently without it being a polymer. these can be attributed to the presence of certain compounds, even just your solvent choice can have an influence.
lastly, you could try a hydro-thermal crystal growing method on the DMT fumarate, use a measuring cylinder as your reaction vessel, something decently tall. having the crystals form where, the top is moderately cooler than the bottom, which you can accomplish with extremely mild heating, like 5 degree differential over a foot, insulation may be required. this causes very large mono-crystals to form, its how people grow those massive clear copper sulfate crystals.
otherwise thermal cycling works, which is just deliberately heating and cooling, or, just heating until you notice some change, then turning off, for however long it takes to hit room temp, and loop that, it makes things also form nice thick crystals, while also helping things with less affinity for a solid state, stay in solution or out of your crystal matrixes, this method is employed for rendering some ultrafine precipitates, filterable, since cycling ultimately targets the smallest particles, so everything is big, and becomes much easier to filter and less likely to clog filter paper. I think i applied that strategy once to vacuum filter tannins more easily from my soup.
Hi, tY for the reply.
I forgot to mention that the yellow recrystallized is n,n, dmt. It is not 100% dry/evaporated on the pic, but it will end with yellow tips. Will add a photo later.
To not weigh the fumarate acid is probably what makes most sense! Imo
Ordered my FA dehydrated by a chem supplier
Imo working with best possible source material especially on the chemicals side is important. Money saved in the wrong spot if not I'd say.
At least as long it is not regulated chem.
Found a supplier which offers different grades therefore different prices and amount.
Starting with 500mg(fumaric acid) for example.
I forgot to mention that the yellow recrystallized is n,n, dmt. It is not 100% dry/evaporated on the pic, but it will end with yellow tips. Will add a photo later.
To not weigh the fumarate acid is probably what makes most sense! Imo
Ordered my FA dehydrated by a chem supplier
Imo working with best possible source material especially on the chemicals side is important. Money saved in the wrong spot if not I'd say.
At least as long it is not regulated chem.
Found a supplier which offers different grades therefore different prices and amount.
Starting with 500mg(fumaric acid) for example.
any bulk FA will be fine if its food grade. just make sure to address the moisture content, keep it dry with silica/etc.
yellowing in the tips sounds like you have an oil wicked onto the matrix of the crystal, but super intimately, so, i would surmise that the yellowing is also a triptamine, but one that forms dark polymorphs way more readily than DMT does.
fortunately, that only means your product has difficulty crystalizing.
if you have a centrifuge you could probably seperate it that way, ive dealt with other organic molecules that behaved similar, wet it with enough isopropanol to make it damp and give the tar/oil component mobility, then centrifuged it out to the bottom, hexane/naptha could probably also be used, its essentially just a super super small scale hyper precise rinsing of oil off the crystals, thats something id do, but maybe wouldnt recommend unless you were totally confident.
you could try turning it into ascorbate salt, i.e the vitamin C salt, i think its meant to be fairly pleasant and effective, plus like fumarate it lasts basically forever like that.
if your oil isnt a triptamine, the vitamin C acid may not neccesarily react with it, or, not right away, allowing for seperation.
but ill say again, for the absolute best, most perfect seperation, look into paper chromatography.
you use really thick paper, like think, a coaster made of paper mache, enough to soak few hundred mg at a time of dmt into, and then you wick it up the length of it, and i believe you can use a simple UV light to distinguish when the yellow band seperates from the colorless DMT.
then you just cut the DMT band out, rinse the DMT out with a potent solvent, and you are good to go. this is just a generalization of TLC chromatography working on paper, based on what someone else told me, who actually has used the method, you will want to find an actual resource or experienced individual to guide you, as i think the thick paper source is important, since it has to be consistent for hundreds of milligrams to a gram to migrate uniformly
yellowing in the tips sounds like you have an oil wicked onto the matrix of the crystal, but super intimately, so, i would surmise that the yellowing is also a triptamine, but one that forms dark polymorphs way more readily than DMT does.
fortunately, that only means your product has difficulty crystalizing.
if you have a centrifuge you could probably seperate it that way, ive dealt with other organic molecules that behaved similar, wet it with enough isopropanol to make it damp and give the tar/oil component mobility, then centrifuged it out to the bottom, hexane/naptha could probably also be used, its essentially just a super super small scale hyper precise rinsing of oil off the crystals, thats something id do, but maybe wouldnt recommend unless you were totally confident.
you could try turning it into ascorbate salt, i.e the vitamin C salt, i think its meant to be fairly pleasant and effective, plus like fumarate it lasts basically forever like that.
if your oil isnt a triptamine, the vitamin C acid may not neccesarily react with it, or, not right away, allowing for seperation.
but ill say again, for the absolute best, most perfect seperation, look into paper chromatography.
you use really thick paper, like think, a coaster made of paper mache, enough to soak few hundred mg at a time of dmt into, and then you wick it up the length of it, and i believe you can use a simple UV light to distinguish when the yellow band seperates from the colorless DMT.
then you just cut the DMT band out, rinse the DMT out with a potent solvent, and you are good to go. this is just a generalization of TLC chromatography working on paper, based on what someone else told me, who actually has used the method, you will want to find an actual resource or experienced individual to guide you, as i think the thick paper source is important, since it has to be consistent for hundreds of milligrams to a gram to migrate uniformly
MrAcuminata
Rising Star
Hi all, I hope this is being posted in the right place. Apologies for the novel length but would rather address everything in one message rather than post multiple. Long time listener, first time caller here. I have a few extraction questions. So most of us want fluffy white crystals from our extractions but none of us want those crystals contaminated with nasty solvent gunk. This is a big issue in Australia as the only readily available brand of Shellite here is impure and always leaves gunk behind after freeze precip. Thanks to the awesome contributions of information here I was able to achieve amazing white crystals from Acacia Acuminata, first try! Unfortunately the Shellite negates this achievement. First question, is there any cheap and/or safe way to purify off-the-shelf shellite at home? My other issue is that I have been able to yield more awesome crystals by using leftover soup and solvents from previous batches, which is awesome but I am wondering why I'm not extracting all the alkaloids possible from my first pulls from each batch. Had I not tried these leftover soup batches I may have conceded that the yield was just low. This is not the case. The dmt is getting stuck in the extraction process somewhere so I'm trying to pinpoint where. I'm doing cybs original salt tek, using xylene for the first pulls and then doing a mini A/B, single water wash and pulling heated solution with slightly hotter shellite for freeze precip. Is shellite just an inferior product these days? Or is it that my PH levels at different points are just off target, I do not have ph testing equipment. Any insights greatly appreciated.
eelisalace
Rising Star
Is it normal for someone to use rags?
Random question but let's say someone had no solvent but pure dmt dissolved in say vinegar or citric acid solution and wanted freebase. If one were to base with Sodium carbonate and decant the water and do some washes on the alkaloids, like for harmala extract, would there be any loses? I feel because I haven't seen any teks like that for DMT there's probably an issue Im not seeing. Or is it just that freeze precip is much quicker?
Hello guys, i live in a humaid area, in a costal city. in July like now the temperature is 30c and humidity is 70%.
i pulled last night and I put the tray with naphtha in the freezer, today the substance crystallized, and I took the tray out of the freezer and poured off the naphtha. But right away, water vapor condensed on the tray and the crystals dissolved in the water. Another strange thing that happened is that the naphtha turned white! note that i worked with distilled water and white vinegar.
how can i solve the humidity problem? Maybe i should seal the tray in a vaccum plastic bag and then wait after getting it out of the freezer until it warms up to the room temperature??
i pulled last night and I put the tray with naphtha in the freezer, today the substance crystallized, and I took the tray out of the freezer and poured off the naphtha. But right away, water vapor condensed on the tray and the crystals dissolved in the water. Another strange thing that happened is that the naphtha turned white! note that i worked with distilled water and white vinegar.
how can i solve the humidity problem? Maybe i should seal the tray in a vaccum plastic bag and then wait after getting it out of the freezer until it warms up to the room temperature??
Alas, on warming, all the DMT will simply redissolve in the naphtha. You may need to rig up a means of working in a dehumidified air stream - or simply wait until a dry period in winter to complete the process.
