Settings for Anlerr Mr Bald T ceramic cup vaporiser

[antares]

There has been some discussion in the past about the Mr Bald T ceramic cup vaporiser but nothing recent. Given it's price and world wide availability, I am sure it has been widely tried. Would folks who are using it successfully for DMT please share what settings work best and if there are any techniques that might help. I will be using it with a Joyetech evic mini v2. I am a non-smoker and I have never used an e-cig before. Many thanks in anticipation.

 

[Aum_Shanti]

I was tidying up some old stuff, and discovered some SS mesh. I used it for a project a long long time ago. So I immediately thought: Let's try connecting it to my mod.

So I cut off a stripe (150x13mm), with no deliberate intention of getting any specific size or resistance, as I had no technical data about this mesh (and the width of the mesh happened to be 150mm).
Then I connected it to the base of the DT V3 in a very crude setup, just with the intention to do some tests. As it turned out, this setup has 0.4 Ohm. So next time I should go for a lower resistance.
It worked in TC mode, but due to the very improvised connection of the mesh (with paperclips), the slightest movement of the mesh, immediately changed the resistance of the connections a bit and threw the mod out of TC mode.
So for the tests I therefore used it in wattage mode. I put a glass tube over the mesh, and connected a hose to the other side for inhalation.

And what can I say, even with this crude setup:

Electric heated mesh vaping is by far the most efficient way to vape such substances, I have ever encountered.

Evaporation of all the substance in a very small time window and still nothing burnt at all. A totally clean vape.

I think surface is the key here. Also there's an even temp distribution, so the substance cannot creep away (temp difference), not evaporate (colder), or get burnt (hotter).
Just right where the connections are, the mesh is a bit colder, but for that I just left 1-1.5cm mesh from the connectors always dry, and so this was never a problem.

I used it at quite low evaporation temps (so nothing gets burnt), so that the evaporation rate per surface is actually quite low. But as you have a huge evaporation surface (e.g.in my setup about 2x15=30cm^2), the total evaporation rate is quite big. So as it has in total this high evaporation rate, you also need a big airflow or the air gets vapor saturated which will immediately lead to condensing.

I also had to discover, that this only works properly if the substance is distributed over/in the mesh in a very thin film. If you have some bigger rocks somewhere, this will lead to melted puddles, and then some material will burn there!
For this I simply improvised some means for distribution. E.g. I added two small mica plates to a SMD tweezer. Set to melt temp and then clinched the mesh between the mica plates and drew over the mesh. Like that you could very quickly distribute it thinly over the mesh.

But the big problem was the loading. As I usually do this with my plastic scoops. And it's obvious I cannot get close to the mesh with them, when it is on melt temp. Always some amount went past the mesh and fell to the floor...ARRGGG... :twisted:
Really tedious work...Totally unpractical.
But then I got an idea, and like that loading was dead simple.
Powder your substance, throw your dosage on a flat heat resistant, poor thermal conducting surface (e.g. I just used paper).
Now get the mesh just so to melt temp, and simply draw it through the powder. The powder will immediately cling to it and no powder remains on your surface, but everything is on/in your mesh. Very quickly and easily done.

But then you still have to do the distribution as mentioned above. But that is also quite quickly done.
And then set vape temp (as said I couldn't and therefore just used wattage mode) and go.

But as the surface is really big it is obvious that you need quite some power. E.g. I would say, for a mesh of the size I indicated, I wouldn't go below 40-50W, but rather in the 60W or even higher region. But as the total heating mass is still very small, heat up times are quite fast compared to donut/plate/cup-atomizers.

This was just some crude setup for some testing. When I find the time, I will do a more elaborate setup, with proper mesh connectors, proper mesh holding structure, and good airflow (so that the air has to flow over the mesh surface, and maybe with some heat exchanger to have less wattage demand from the mod).

But this method seems very promising to me. So I think I will totally trash the e-foil idea and instead go for the mesh only idea. The big advantage of the mesh is IMHO that it can hold quite some substance on it's own, so there's really nowhere any significant heat difference.
But it is certainly only a meaningful method, for some critical substances like DMT (e.g. which need to be supplied quickly, and in a specific dose, and/or: burn easily, creep easily).


BTW, about the Mr Bald T:

I made some additional measurements, and although it does work in TC mode, the temp curve is highly nonlinear.

E.g. with my setting as TCNi:
set 100C -> 100C (here it is basically correct)
set 120C -> 130C (so temp until here increases slightly faster, than set)
set 125C -> 160C (suddenly a steep temp increase)
set 130C -> 170C
set 135C -> 180C
(from here on the temp increase is again much flatter)

As you can see, the temp curve is really strange, and so certainly no simple TCR value would ever match that behavior.
It is also important to note the steep temp increase from 130C to 160C. So if you need to vape a substance in this temp window, it's gonna be delicate...

 

[zikzak]

Sounds interesting Aum_Shanti!
So the VandyVape would work if loading it like you describe? Or is a bigger mesh area needed?

 

[Aum_Shanti]

So the VandyVape would work if loading it like you describe? Or is a bigger mesh area needed?

Well at least I used a way bigger mesh area. But technically you could also mount such a big mesh on the vandyvape. You would just not be able anymore to use the delivered mouthpiece, but would have to DIY something.

But as said, that was one crude test. E.g. I have no idea how the meshes from Vandyvape compare to the one I tested.

 

[zikzak]

Anyone have been using the QQ with 5-MeO-DMT? Settings, working good etc.?

 

[Aum_Shanti]

Anyone have been using the QQ with 5-MeO-DMT? Settings, working good etc.?

As I found a good way for me, with the MBT, I didn't have the urge to elaborate values/tek for the QQ.

But didn't someone once report it here? Not sure.

Anyways got the SS316-foil, and also tried it in a crude setup. It heats much faster. I think because the mesh structure gives it a much bigger total surface, and therefore it cools better.

The foil, even in quite big surfaces, easily reaches temp in the sub-second zone. Actually it heats up that fast, that my pico mod overshoots everytime with the temp. But even with my crude setup (paperclips) TC works flawless, even if the foil gets moved heavily. I think the mesh structure makes it much more prone to a proper connection, than foil.

But the foil is thin (0.01mm)...and although it is astonishingly stable for that (quite hard to tear), it easily bends. And so directly "smearing" the substance on the foil, is basically impossible. And as I don't have gotten my glass fiber paper yet, further testing is futile, IMHO.


BTW: Also got the VandyVape meshes, and boy are these fine...and narrow (10mm), which is IMHO a serious flaw for direct application. Even the roughest SS mesh for the VV (150) is way finer, than the finest mesh I used before. And honestly I found even rougher meshes better, as there you can directly suck the air through the mesh (basically like you do in "the machine" ), which works much better for the evaporation rate. With these fine meshes, it's basically impossible to suck air through them, if substance has been applied to them.

Also is a narrow band IMHO a flaw, as the sides are logically always a bit cooler than the rest. Not by much, but...


Edit:
The glass fiber filters arrived (no bonder), and they really seems to be totally inert to heat. E.g. you can place it directly into a flame, and literally nothing happens. But what woories me: It seems to be a pretty good thermal insulator, and the paper is quite thicker than I thought.

 

[tseuq]

Ahoi guys,

back from vacation and after just some more burnt-spice-attempts, I stop my testing sessions with this device.

After some serious testing I conclude: I fail to do it right and thus, too much.. "ouch" for my taste.

Love, tseuq

 

[zikzak]

Aum_Shanti, thought this might interest you:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Waxpen/comments/998hho/experimenting_with_the_v3_and_a_mighty_pad

Also this new atomizer might be of interest:

https://www.advancedvapesupply.com/collections/rta-tanks/products/molecule-rebuildable-dab-atomizer

And a new v4 crucible coming up:

https://www.reddit.com/r/DivineTribeVaporizers/comments/980d6u/here_im_using_some_sauce_and_the_v4_crucible_the

 

[zikzak]

FWIW I think the Plus XL is going to be my go too machine over the Plus. I only like it a little better than the regular Plus but I think it is better. The extra coils aren't really necessary but because it's slightly wider on top and bottom it's easier to load and less tippy on the table. With the adjustable airflow on the XL fully open it feels like maybe 30% better airflow than with the regular Plus, so there is less of the "I'm suffocating" feeling. The magnet top and the lanyard are cool too. The Plus XL only costs $2 more than the regular plus. If you were going to carry it in your pocket then the Plus might still be preferable since it's thinner.

This is what i always suspected with the plus. But i haven't used it yet. Thanks for pointing it out. The plus XL is the device to buy then.

Did you end up getting one?

 

[some one]

How to use a wax pen for dummies pictorial - DMT Discussion - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus

 

[Kable]

Some one, I read your post but apparently I'm still too new to post there. For the record the doses between my yocans and my GVG feel identical. I break through consistently with 25 mg, which is the same as with my GVG. My spice is fairly jungly orange. I don't pulse the button, however, when I do it, I just hold it down for the duration. I suck pretty much as hard as I can so that might keep it from burning.

 

[Aum_Shanti]

Just wanted to post shortly about my further tests with SS foil/mesh vaping, if it is of interest for anyone, otherwise just ignore...

Overall I rather like the mesh over the foil, as the substance runs way less on mesh. Also you get double the evaporation surface (front and back) and can see very easily where there still is substance if you put a light behind the mesh while vaping.

The foil+filter-paper idea wasn't successful, as the paper is just a way too good thermal insulator and also because it's pretty difficult to keep them in tight contact over the whole surface.

Again all my tests were not with DMT, due to my tolerance, but with a substance, which I think is quite similar in its vaping behavior.

I myself tried many many ways, but this one is IMHO by far the best working tek I tried. Huuuuggee hits, with no burning, in a very small time frame (e.g. vaping 30mg within a few seconds is no real problem at all). With this tek, I actually even did 100mg+ tokes.

Again my method:

Either use SS foil, or SS mesh and directly connect it to a mod (use a base, where you can screw them on), and use it in TC mode. Like that you can vape huge hits, with no problem overheating/burning stuff and dead simple, even for beginners.

It's basically similar to the conventional foil vaping (e.g. you need a straw), but totally temp controlled, and that's why you can go full power, over the whole surface at once, without burning anything, which is (almost?) impossible, with conventional foil vaping using a flame, even for pros (especially for delicate substances, which easily burn, and therefore where small temps differences, makes the difference between good evaporation and burning).

You basically set temp to melt, put your stuff on it, let it melt into a wide layer (smear it with some tool into a big surface), then set to vape temp, and go.
BTW: Smearing with a tool (e.g. made out of a paperclip) while vaping strongly increases vapor production and is highly recommended, as the liquid substance otherwise has the tendency to run to the deepest point, and so it doesn't evaporate anymore over the whole surface. Continuously smearing prevents this, or use a big enough foil/mesh, so that it will not run (which then needs more power)

As said, I personally prefer the mesh over the foil, as the mesh prevents it more from running.

I really can recommend anyone this tek. Just use an old atomizer base with screws, and e.g. buy a Vandyvape mesh, or some 0.01mm 316SS foil on ebay.
Currently I use this version: I mount 2-3 vandyvape SS mesh stripes in parallel (side by side) mounted in folded copper sheet connectors on my DT V3 510 base.

Then you only need a heat resistant straw with a big enough dia, or as I use it, a tube with a small mounted glass funnel.

And always hold it so, that the substance can not run down the connectors (so the connectors should always be the topmost).

 

[some one]

:thumb_up:

 

[karloff]

Hi friends!

I have discovered this interesting thread just after posting my related questions to this other thread: Glass E-nail for smoking in dab rig - FAQ - All your basic questions and answers - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus

Buy I have read all the posts here and I have found a lot of good info to solve my doubts, thank you very much.

Basically I am using a Vaporesso Nebula mod ( https://des.gbtcdn.com/uploads/pdm-desc-pic/Electronic/image/2017/06/03/1496451444292188.jpg ) with a Greenlighvapes G9 E-Nail attached to it ( https://static.shoplightspeed.com/shops/617282/files/006955760/green-light-vapes-g9-510-enail.jpg )

Yesterday, after reading this thread, I configured my mod to TC-Ni with a temp of 240º C (464 F) and I put a tiny ammount of dmt (very few milligrams) into the nail to see how it was vaporized. I didn't want to smoke the spice myself at that moment, just testing it.

It vaporized quite well in contrast with my previous attemps in TC modes (TC-SS did not work with this E-Nail at all).

The ceramic heater of the G9 went pink (not intense red like in the CCW config... I suspect I almost broke the heater with that setting trials) quite fast and the vaporized dmt made a nice column of white smoke.

The problem is that the smoke column lasted a good minute (even a bit more) before it disapeared, so I suspect that the spice was not vaporized fast enough (or had it been different if I had inhaled it?).

Maybe I need to set the temperature to a higher value because the real temp is lower than the one I set?

One issue that puzzles me in this thread is that you are configuring two parameters in TC control modes: the temperature and the wattage. This does not make sense to me, I only can configure the temperature in my mod, and the wattage (which is shown in the lcd display) is continuously changing... I guess the mod is automatically controlling it to reach and maintain the desired temperature consistently. Has somebody an idea about why this difference is?

I will continue making tests and posting them here... likely next friday I will be able to properly smoke some milligrams of dmt, seeking for a breakthrough, to see how it actually works.

 

[Aum_Shanti]

I guess the mod is automatically controlling it to reach and maintain the desired temperature consistently. Has somebody an idea about why this difference is?

The wattage you set in TC mode is basically with what wattage it should heat on the heating up (which depending on the atomizer can take many seconds), getting to the desired temp. Afterwards they all basically regulate the power so, that they keep the temp (PID).
So it's basically a max limit for the power. As with quite some atomizers you wanna limit the power as too much power will not work, as the thermal conductance cannot get the that much heat away from the heat element that fast.

 

[karloff]

Many thanks, Shanti, now it makes sense to me as a limit to the max wattage.
Investigating a bit more, I realized that my mod has not the possibility of setting that max watt limit in TC modes, which makes me worry about destroying the atomizer in a power peak.
The G9 atomizer withstands up to 80w, which I guess will never be reached if I stay in the 240ºC temperature range.
But in case I move to a different atomizer in the future, with a lower wattage, then that could be a problem and maybe I should set CCW mode, where I have control on wattage level and time of heat cycle, instead of temperature.

It is weird how one has to get a master degree in electronics to be able to properly vaporize spice :shock:

 

[karloff]

Finally I could do a successful test last friday.
The CCW mode seems to be the best for my mod/atomizer configuration. Here I can define a wattage curve in a 10 second span.
So I configured it to go from 10 to 40 watts the first 3 seconds, and then stay in constant 40 watts the other 7 seconds.
I vaporized 30 mg. of dmt and I had a strong experience in just two pufs.
Anyway I notized a bit of dark residue left in the walls of the quartz nail, so I suspect the wattage was still a bit too high.
Next trial will be configuring to 30 watts instead of 40, to see if it is equaly efective and no residue is left.

 

[Kaputch]

So I have the yocan with ceramic disc, and the airflow really tight for me and I was wondering somthing after reading this thread and looking for more information online

The major problem in electronic devices is the slow ramp up time and the long cooling time? So it the mass of the coil/cup?

I have an idea (sadly i won't be able to test it soon enough)

In the gvg, the spice is sitting directly on a mesh? And the mesh is touching the glass but the glass have hole in the middle? Only used gvg once.

If so, the liquified spice is not dripping to the hole before it's evaporated? Or when the berner is turned off it's solidified faster than it can drip through?

If so. Why not using an "rda" with mesh shaped to hold spice, so it will be low mass and fast heating/cooling cycle? Tc mode will work in the right kind of mesh material.

 

[Aum_Shanti]

Here are the the settings I used on my first attempt
Max power 29.5W

As you can read in my earlier posts in this thread, I highly not recommend using this wattage, as it will very likely kill your cup.

If so. Why not using an "rda" with mesh shaped to hold spice, so it will be low mass and fast heating/cooling cycle? Tc mode will work in the right kind of mesh material.

That's exactly the solution I recommend since some time know, even in this thread. I'm super happy with it, to vape almost any substance...

E.g. here: Settings for Anlerr Mr Bald T ceramic cup vaporiser - FAQ - All your basic questions and answers - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus
or here

Settings for Anlerr Mr Bald T ceramic cup vaporiser - FAQ - All your basic questions and answers - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus

 

[Kaputch]

The problem is that the smoke column lasted a good minute (even a bit more) before it disapeared, so I suspect that the spice was not vaporized fast enough (or had it been different if I had inhaled it?).

When there is no air coming in and cooling the coil, the tc does it's job by not adding temp, if you did inhaled it, it will be cooling it, maybe more vapor would vaporized in less time

Again all my tests were not with DMT, due to my tolerance, but with a substance, which I think is quite similar in its vaping behavior.

I would like to know, which substance did you use? Something widely available? It's seems a good way to try things out instead of spice that I don't have right now or want to waste on trials and errors, and i have a killer idea but prefer to check it before sharing it