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Super Direct Dry Tek? (Initial Results & Fixes)

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Wanderer

Rising Star
Hello,

SWIM is looking to "streamline" the extraction process with as few solvents and steps as possible, while retaining the quality and yield. He has a sufficient knowledge of organic chemistry, but has yet to "apply" it to something useful.

So SWIM has supplied me with the following schematic of sorts to get input. It seems almost too simple, but everything seems to check out relatively well as far as chemical theory is concerned. Right?

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Simplest Acetone Extract

1. Basify

I've decided to cut out the defatting process due to the low lipid content of MHRB powder, and because the salt precipitation of the alkaloids into their fumaric complexes isolates them from any fat contamination anyways.

So to basify the MHRB, add enough water to a 1:1-1:5 ratio of a water soluble hydroxide salt (NaOH, KOH, CaOH) and powdered MHRB to make a paste (or add a solution of water and a pure alcohol to decrease evaporation time). Wait until the paste is completely dry.

If you cannot find a hydroxide salt to purchase, one can make some by extracting it from wood ash. Wood ash is mostly potassium hydroxide (very slightly less basic than NaOH, but still good enough) with a bit of sodium hydroxide mixed in. The age-old method is to use a big barrel, put straw or dry organic matter at the bottom of the barrel, and pile in the wood ash on top. Then fill in the water and allow it to percolate through the ash. The straw and organic matter should filter out most particulate matter. Draw off the water from the bottom of the barrel. The water is now highly basic. Use this to mix with your MHRB, or dehydrate to leave crystalized hydroxide salts. Other methods call for things like coffee filters or just allowing the ash to settle in solution, so one can draw off the water from the top.


2. Acetone!

Add enough anhydrous acetone to inundate and have excess in the containment vessel (glass only). Wait until the particulate matter settles and decant & filter acetone. The freebase alkaloids have now passed into solution. The solution will probably be cloudy and have impurities at this point.


3. Salt Precipitation

Slowly add Fumaric Acid Saturated Acetone (FASA) dropwise into alkaloid-acetone solution to precipitate out alkaloid salts. Wait until salts have settled and decant remaining acetone solution. Wash salts with additional acetone until any lipids or other impurities are gone.

Convert to freebase using NaCO3 (1:1). Mix salt and base together, add enough water to make paste. Allow to dry. Add acetone to dry mixture to draw off freebase and leave excess NaCO3 and Fumaric Acid. Decant acetone and allow it to evaporate. Freebase alkaloids are left.

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So basically that's it. I figure even if someone were to use something fattier than MHRB, the precipitation of indoles would prevent most other impurities (tannins, lipids, phenols, etc) from being in the final product. Now because the precipitation tends to be non-selective as far as alkaloids are concerned, the resulting product would likely be "jungle spice". But if one were to do a non-polar wash, the desired alkaloids could be obtained.

This process seems so much more easy and safe than using caustic chemicals and dangerous hydrocarbons. Is there any visible downside to any of you?

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Results of the Above Tek
So if you read through this thread, you'll notice that nothing precipitated out of the final acetone solution. I have ruled out the presence of water (which would keep fumarate precipitates in solution), so the only other reason for the lack of product would be too low of a pH during the basifying stage. For this reason, I have adjusted the above tek to use a more basic hydroxide salt instead of a carbonate. If someone wishes to attempt the new version, feel free to do so. I am going to do rebasify my left over MHRB and do a non-polar pull to verify that the alkaloids are, indeed, still present.


-- Wanderer
 
Ah, that makes more sense. I suppose sealed cavities in the lattice could definitely store small amounts of acetone, but as dg pointed out, crushing, washing, and cleaning with water (or freebasing) should eliminate these.

Yeah, as far as the volume of acetone is concerned, the goal was to completely cover the basified powder and have a good amount of acetone above that. It would have been fine to mix less with the powder and then pour and filter, but dealing with the filtering is always a pain. Acetone has a very low viscosity (about 3x less viscous than water), so "racking" it for a day or so causes any particulate matter (even highly microscopic bits) to completely settle. This creates a highly "filtered" fraction above the particulate layer, which can be siphoned off without requiring filtration.

The plan is to recycle the acetone after precipitation (it's kind of expensive), but SWIM needs to find a way to clean any remaining fumaric acid from solution (does anyone know of any other insoluble fumaric salts?)

More to come from SWIM!

-- Wanderer
 
Indeed! SWIM just finished a test of the acetone with FASA.

The results are ambiguous, but clearly show something is amiss. FASA was added dropwise (at first) to the MHRB acetone (which has been sitting for about a week). All the particulate matter had settled to the bottom, so the MHRB acetone was carefully poured into a separate jar. It was perfectly clear but had a yellow hue.

After about 10 drops of FASA was added and no visible clouding or precipitation was formed, SWIM thought to set it aside for a while to see if there were any changes. An hour later, no changes. The air temperature is 58 F, but b/c fumarate salts are insoluble, it was expected to see something precipitate out regardless of temperature.

So then a ton of fumaric acid was added. Probably close to a gram, which all dissolved into the MHRB acetone. Nothing but a few gains of something precipitated out to the bottom with no clouding (probably 20-50mg worth), which SWIM expects to be excess fumaric acid.

Does anyone have any idea what could have gone wrong? Is it possible acetone precipitation takes some time? The clouding should of been immediate, or so SWIM thought. Absolutely no clouding was witnessed. SWIM thought at least something should have come out.

There is still acetone left in the MHRB jar, settled down with all the MHRB itself. Is it possible for solutes to "settle"? SWIM didn't think this is possible for soluble compounds in solution, but perhaps a gravitational solute gradient was formed? SWIM will have to perform more tests after he filters the remaining acetone.

-- Wanderer
 
Well at least there's some news.

I was thinking, as I read this thread over again, that perhaps sodium carbonate is too weak? Perhaps the DMT wasn't fully based before drying? I really do not have the expertise to give anything more than an estimate, a rather uneducated estimate at that.

If I try this method, I will probably use calcium hydroxide instead of sodium carbonate to basify the MHRB. I'm still hoping we can come up with a sound drytek that utilizes acetone eventually.

Let us know of any new developments!
 
Will do! I have a feeling the basicity was too weak to fully freebase the alkaloids. I know the pH of freebase n,n-DMT is around 8.7, but because the natural salts are probably bonded ionically to some natural acid (tannic, oxalic, etc), a pretty strong base would be needed to overcome the bond.

But judging by the fact that there are no precipitates in pretty anhydrous acetone, I fortunately haven't lost any of the tasty bits in the powder, and ended up just doing a really complex defatting process.

The only downside is I added considerable amounts of MgSO4, which reacts with OH- ions to form Mg(OH)2 and Na2SO4 (or CaSO4 or K2SO4, depending on the hydroxide salt), etc. So I'm going to need to add considerable amounts of a soluble hydroxide salt to rebasify the solution sufficiently.

I suppose I'll just do a non-polar pull with d-limonene on this instead of using up all the acetone, and try again with a fresh batch but use a stronger base.

But now we now Na2CO3 isn't basic enough!

-- Wanderer
 
I had a feeling sodium carbonate would be too weak, but I wasn't sure, as I haven't experimented for myself. I'm still glad someone made a thread about this acetone drytek. I feel there needs to be more discussion and experimentation with acetone teks.
 
Indeed, I'm happy to make any contributions I can. And you're correct endlessness, good catch! I made the edit. I had been reading about carbonic ocean acidification affecting the CaCO3 shells of plankton and zooplankton before posting -- must have still been on the brain.

-- Wanderer
 
Thanks for the tip elru! Finding Na2CO3 wasn't the issue, though. I managed to produce it by dehydrating sodium bicarbonate, or more commonly known as baking soda (2 * NaHCO3 + Heat => NaCO3 + H2O + CO2). In this way it was completely anhydrous; any water left in the final acetone solution would have pulled the fumarate precipitates into solution.

I'll look for some more basic salts soon -- if I can't find any in stores, I'll make some potassium hydroxide from wood ash.

-- Wanderer
 
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