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TEK "TnT tek" - Vodka DMT extraction for oral use TEK (super easy!)

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Has anyone sat down and worked out the expected fraction of DMT that would be expected to end up in the precipitate? I have insufficient knowledge to work it out but it really seems like the partitioning would be poor (not no idea how poor) and I would like to understand.
Partitioning? What do you mean by that? When it's an insoluble solid phase versus a liquid phase, we don't really talk about partitioning. DMT is exceptionally soluble in aqueous ethanol; rinsing the precipitated calcium tannin a couple of times with a little more vodka recovers effectively all the soluble alkaloids. The rinsing makes up for whatever mechanical holdup of dissolved DMT there may have been.
 
Has anyone sat down and worked out the expected fraction of DMT that would be expected to end up in the precipitate? I have insufficient knowledge to work it out but it really seems like the partitioning would be poor (not no idea how poor) and I would like to understand.
I've also been curious about this. Since freebase is soluble in pure ethanol, I've often wondered what the potential loss could be when it comes to saturation and freeze precipitation / recrystallization.
 
The lime precipitation occurs well enough at room temperature. Calcium hydroxide is somewhat unusual in having an inverse solubility curve in water, meaning that it's actually more soluble at lower temperatures. I'm not sure how that shapes up when it comes to aquoethanolic solutions, nor have I any observations on what happens to the lime-treated solution on heating. It's a nuance that appears to be unimportant at present.

The reason I mention freezing is as an alternative method for concentrating the solution by freezing the water out as ice, thus conserving the ethanol content. This is in contrast to evaporation, where the ethanol preferentially gets removed. So, only freeze it if you want to try that out as a method for concentrating the tincture. It's likely to have good keeping properties when kept in a closed bottle and protected from light, and the liquid form can help with measuring the doses once you've established its concentration one way or another.

And I'm super-stoked to find that this tannin removal method has proven to be so useful to you 😊
Wouldn't freezing either acetone or alcohol—solvents that also extract fats and oils—without a defat step lead to some congealing with the frozen water layer? Wouldn't that cause loss since freebase is lipophilic? Would lowering the pH first—to get protonated salts—work better? Or, does the CaOH somehow remove enough lipids?

I only ask because this is an issue with extracting pure salvinorin A (highly lipophilic), and that is why defatting is done before freeze precipitation / recrystalization.
 
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Wouldn't freezing either acetone or alcohol—solvents that also extract fats and oils—without a defat step lead to some congealing with the frozen water layer? Wouldn't that cause loss since freebase is lipophilic? Would lowering the pH first—to get protonated salts—work better? Or, does the CaOH somehow remove enough lipids?

I only ask because this is an issue with extracting pure salvinorin A (highly lipophilic), and that is why defatting is done before freeze precipitation / recrystalization.
That depends entirely on the specific substance and solvent. In the case of DMT in aqueous ethanol, preliminary experiments indicate that it retains significant solubility at freezer temperatures, with a phase separation - which nonetheless remains liquid (albeit somewhat viscous, i.e. goo) at c. -24°C - occurs only with aquoethanolic mixtures below c. 25% ABV. There's ample room for further, more precise experimentation to pin down the figures. A set of temperature/concentration/solubility graphs would be the main research goal there.

With the TnT tincture - the solids from one example of which were analysed and found to consist of only 20% DMT - it's possible to separate water ice as crystals without any other solids forming, although it's equally worth noting that the analysed sample was not freeze-dewatered, and vice-versa.

So, in the case of DMT in aqueous ethanol at the temperature of a domestic freezer, freeze precipitation seems difficult at best, and when in the form of a crude tincture containing as yet undefined "impurities" this appears to be practically impossible.
 
That depends entirely on the specific substance and solvent. In the case of DMT in aqueous ethanol, preliminary experiments indicate that it retains significant solubility at freezer temperatures, with a phase separation - which nonetheless remains liquid (albeit somewhat viscous, i.e. goo) at c. -24°C - occurs only with aquoethanolic mixtures below c. 25% ABV. There's ample room for further, more precise experimentation to pin down the figures. A set of temperature/concentration/solubility graphs would be the main research goal there.

With the TnT tincture - the solids from one example of which were analysed and found to consist of only 20% DMT - it's possible to separate water ice as crystals without any other solids forming, although it's equally worth noting that the analysed sample was not freeze-dewatered, and vice-versa.

So, in the case of DMT in aqueous ethanol at the temperature of a domestic freezer, freeze precipitation seems difficult at best, and when in the form of a crude tincture containing as yet undefined "impurities" this appears to be practically impossible.
I wasn't thinking decent freeze precipitation would be possible with ethanol; I was hypothesizing about potential loss when highly lipophilic compounds partition into lipids, which then separate upon cooling and might get tossed out with the ice. Does that make sense?


Not sure if this is actually a concern here. I just know that's why fats / oils / waxes are often removed before putting saturated ethanol in the freezer (salvinorin A was the example I'm most familiar with). I'm probably overthinking this since MHRB ethanol extracts "goo-ing" could have more to do with polysaccharides than lipids and waxes.
 
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I wasn't thinking decent freeze precipitation would be possible with ethanol; I was hypothesizing about potential loss when highly lipophilic compounds partition into lipids, which then separate upon cooling and might get tossed out with the ice. Does that make sense?
Well, there's the Golden Rule…
in the field of extraction there is a Golden Rule: don't chuck ANYTHING away until you're sure you've got the goods!
so, basically, you're not going to toss away the ice without being sure it's only water and nothing else in any significant quantity. Very much a valid point, though.
Not sure if this is actually a concern here. I just know that's why fats / oils / waxes are often removed before putting saturated ethanol in the freezer (salvinorin A was the example I'm most familiar with). I'm probably overthinking this since MHRB ethanol extracts "goo-ing" could have more to do with polysaccharides than lipids and waxes.
The main issue with separating ice crystals from the TnT MHRB tinctures appears to be mechanical losses due to the tincture sticking to and between the ice crystals. This becomes another reason to hold onto the ice.

There's also the possibility that I may have a slight issue with hoarding, at least, apparently, when compared to the average US citizen (and just where is this "away" that things get chucked? ;))
🤣
 
There's also the possibility that I may have a slight issue with hoarding, at least, apparently, when compared to the average US citizen (and just where is this "away" that things get chucked? ;))
🤣
So you’re telling me to stop keeping spent plant powders in jars “just in case”?

I know it’s amazing for the compost, but what if I didn’t get everything?
 
So you’re telling me to stop keeping spent plant powders in jars “just in case”?

I know it’s amazing for the compost, but what if I didn’t get everything?
Eat Compost, there is a character in the last series of 'The Boys' who eats dirt, maybe something to aspire to haha

*Don't Eat Compost, Soil or Earth Kids*
 
Eat Compost, there is a character in the last series of 'The Boys' who eats dirt, maybe something to aspire to haha

*Don't Eat Compost, Soil or Earth Kids*
Btw, that one's already out the stable door over here:
Yes, they sell bottles of swamp-water at the health food shop.
 
Started my first batch of this and just a couple clarifications, please.

Wait for couple of hours (you can wait longer, I personally wait couple of days)
Does this mean: the extraction is complete in 2 hours but it won't harm anything to stretch this phase out for a few days?

- To be sure the DMT will not precipitate you can put some acid in your preparation (vitamin C, vinegar, lemon juice...)
At what stage, exactly, would I introduce some vinegar, and how much?

Appreciation for the tek @Transform !! 🙏
 
Does this mean: the extraction is complete in 2 hours but it won't harm anything to stretch this phase out for a few days?
Yes, the initial alcoholic extraction can stand more or less indefinitely, but it's worth understanding it in context of the next step:
4. Filter the MHRB (if you wait it will go at the bottom of the jar and be super easy to filter!).
There's also scope for a cold rest after filtering off the bark. This will allow more tannins to precipitate before adding the lime, and hence will reduce the amount of lime required. HOWEVER, there's a higher probability of DMT/alkaloidal residue remaining in the insolubles before lime has been added, which is part of the reason for my suggestion of doing the initial extraction warm and minimising wait times, then taking it slow and steady with the lime precipitation instead.

Rinsing the bark and tannin precipitates with a bit more vodka helps with maximising extraction yields, too.

At what stage, exactly, would I introduce some vinegar, and how much?
Only add acid after the lime precipitation has been completed, and the clear liquid has been separated from any solids. Ideally this should be left for any turbidity to settle out and decanted once more before neutralisation. Imo, while vinegar will work, it doesn't taste so great, so you might be better off using one of the other food acids like citric, malic or tartaric. Ascorbic is OK for short-term use, but has a tendency to decompose. Vinegar is mostly water too, so it'll be diluting your solution relatively more than some other acids.

There's a lot of leeway for adapting this stage to ones own preferences and the available materials. This means adaptations can be introduced depending on the intended fate of the tincture.
 
There's also scope for a cold rest after filtering off the bark. This will allow more tannins to precipitate before adding the lime, and hence will reduce the amount of lime required. HOWEVER, there's a higher probability of DMT/alkaloidal residue remaining in the insolubles before lime has been added, which is part of the reason for my suggestion of doing the initial extraction warm and minimising wait times, then taking it slow and steady with the lime precipitation instead.
Ok, i didn't see any mention of heating on the tek instructions, so I went room temp. It's been sitting in vodka for about 14 hours. According to the tek instructions my next step is to filter out the plant matter and begin slowly adding the lime. Do you suggest another step prior to that?

Only add acid after the lime precipitation has been completed, and the clear liquid has been separated from any solids. Ideally this should be left for any turbidity to settle out and decanted once more before neutralisation
cool, how much citric acid do you recommend?

Imo, while vinegar will work, it doesn't taste so great,
heard and appreciated
 
my next step is to filter out the plant matter and begin slowly adding the lime. Do you suggest another step prior to that?
If you let the filtered brew stand in to the fridge for a while, you see further tannins precipitate. This may be better for lime economy, but it remains to be established whether any significant amount of actives gets trapped in the sediment.

how much citric acid do you recommend?
I'd recommend titrating a small sample of the tincture and using a result of that test to calculate a sensible amount for the remaining volume. If that sounds too daunting, try adding, say, 10 mg increments of acid to a 10 mL aliquot until you get to a desired pH level as determined either by spotting on pH test paper or simply by tasting a tiny drop. A pH of 7 or less should be fine, but you'll not want to go as low as pH 4 without a sound reason.

Anyhow, once you've recorded a figure for the small test volume, you can multiply it up according to the total remaining volume.
i didn't see any mention of heating on the tek instructions, so I went room temp
Shouldn't be an issue, but I mention it because the idea originated from a research paper where acorns were heated in vodka to extract the tannins. It's linked to in several posts over the past couple of years while the method was first being developed and tested.
 
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