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Cybs 'MAX ION' tek
- Thread starter cyb
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Vegeta28 said:
Another water extraction should not be a waste of time. Boiling down the water should not reduce dmt.
However, for the TEK in this thread, you do not need to separate the bark from the water. You base it all together and suck the solvent from the top later. If you separate the acidic water from the bark you are doing a different procedure.
I would recommend simply sticking to this TEK and not separate the water and bark.
Thanks man, but really i think need to do it, i know is a diferent procces, but i have a lot of gallons and kgs of bark , and i dont want to work with big volumes of solvent , i will make the extraction with ethyl acetate evap the solvent in roto and use it again, evap and again ,again ...until the solvent dont pull any more. I think the ethyl acetate makes a more "full spectrum". And if i want purify dmt rex in heptane
I will update the journey. Maybe i will make other tread for not step this.
Thanks and love
I will update the journey. Maybe i will make other tread for not step this.
Thanks and love
Vegeta28 said:
Ah, OK. Instead of evaporating the ethyl acetate you can rest it in the fridge, decant, and salt it with citric acid. Let clouds settle and decant to leave behind gooey product that looks like honey. Then wash solveny it with sodium carbonate water (10%). Pull with the washed solvent and salt again until no more dmt citrate clouds and precipitates. You should be left with a relatively pure dmt citrate "honey" very easy to do a mini A/B to free base, etc.
Ime, you get less yield. I use distilled.
One love
Note, tap water is slightly different all over. My experience with tap water where I live may be different than someone else living elsewhere.
One love
Note, tap water is slightly different all over. My experience with tap water where I live may be different than someone else living elsewhere.
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but what is the cause?
I'm not sure, but guess that it could be various amounts of minerals and additives in my local tap water.
One love
One love
Yes, there are varying degrees, and types, of water hardness. This relates to the amount of dissolved calcium and magnesium salts in the water. Whether, and how much of, the hardness is temporary or permanent depends largely on the proportions of bicarbonate and sulfate. Calcium and magnesium form insoluble carbonates, either by reaction with added soluble carbonate, or from thermal decomposition of the bicarbonates (which is what leads to scale in kettles and other water-heating devices). Adding a hydroxide will also precipitate carbonates from bicarbonates, as well as precipitating magnesium hydroxide from any soluble magnesium salts, and some calcium hydroxide - which is only slightly soluble.
To wit, water hardness can interfere with extractions by using up base and introducing unwanted particulates (chalk/dolomite particles).
Ok say someone put a half liter of vinegar/thought it was water to start with. All I've gotten out of it so far is fat from ACRB. And say the material was boiled and the steam was condensed. I haven't added any lye yet. What should/could I do with the vinegar material. I haven't got anything out of it yet. Should I put it back on warm bath with the lye? How could I get the ph to 12 with all this vinegar?
That's a lot of vinegar...
I'd break the extraction into several smaller ones. Then, for each one, keeping adding lye and water, a little at a time, until you get the desired PH. However this will be a tedious task my friend.
One love
It depends if you're prepared to sacrifice a load of lye in neutralising the excess vinegar.
Another option would be to evaporate the bark mixture to dryness using a forced draught and minimal heat (to avoid burning), then start over with distilled water - the vinegar will have done its job already.
@Voidmatrix' suggestion to split the extraction is also good. If you have more bark, you can use the over-acidified bark as the acid, and make up the volume of the extraction proportionaly as follows:
say you started with 100g bark and added pure vinegar, you could split it into 'n' portions (n=4 to 10); to each of those portions you add (n-1/n)×100g of fresh bark, along with sufficient water.
Example: you split it into 5×20g equivalent portions, you make it up with [⁴/₅]×100g = 80g fresh bark and a similar proportion of distilled water.
The number of portions you split into can be determined by the amount of bark you have available.
Once you've effectively diluted the acid like this, you can do more PC and freeze/thaw cycles, defat and so on, then carry on with the extraction by adding lye, etc.
This part raises the question - did the steam return to the bark mixture once condensed (reflux), or was it collected separately (distillation)? As alluded to above, it would be possible to distil off the vinegar, but it would be necessary to exercise great caution with the heating - a sand bath at 120°C would be ideal - in order to minimise the possibility of burning.
This is another question altogether but my results came out great. I read somewhere if alcohol was added to a mix that it would be tricky to get anything out of a batch and nothing would happen if I added sugar or yeast to help it to grow or impregnate the yeast to create dmt. How about sugar and/or yeast and have it ferment on its own. Would that be bad cuz I've had some good results afterall from something I started a while back.
, that’s a new one.
It's unclear exactly what it was you started a while back, how those good results were obtained, and how they were (subjectively? qualitatively? quantitatively?) good.
Was this using the MAX ION tek? If not, you're in the wrong thread!
You'll have to be more precise.
