hey im hoping someone can show me to the light before i do anything drastic, i did a ceilo on like 350g bridgesi ,all really good but lots of the bits had been sitting around for months,anyways all went to plan i did the fridge rest,had emolsion layer i sychened out added soda ash to get rid out the last water filtered then, i think this is where i fu#@%ed up i thought because i had done 3 1/2 times the amount instead of just using 100g, so i multyplyed the amounts, where as i think i should have just stuck with the 5g of citric in the end,,,,,the whole thing went fluro opaque yellow, only the next day it looked like the citric acid had melted into a bottom layer with no crystals???, so heres the question of the day,,,,, can i collect the bottom citric layer, add lime, fresh ethyl fridge rest decant and acidify again, or is their another way to the light,,,,any advise might be nice, before i............
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TEK Ethyl acetate approach [CIELO]
- Thread starter Loveall
- Start date
This topic contain a TEK
Hey I got goo and I'm wondering if I basify, with all the goodies go back into the ethyl is the jar,then I can get rid of moisture content and try again or should I just decant and dry goo
Wow,I just decantered the ethyl off thinking I'll just dry this goo, and the goo set as a crystalline solid and the bottle is covered,so hear is the nest question for ye,,,,,the bottle I used is a 2l with a cap so I can't scrap it,,,,,,,what can I dissolve it all in to get out,,,,,,,,warm ethyl or iso or boiling water,,,,what's the best bottle washer?????
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My goo when tipped out solidified as crystal that tastes a lot like citric a , and the ethyl I tipped off into another jar I shoke and piles of white crystaline preciped out,,,,,what's going to be better the citric crystal or the precip, also when it gets to getting all the crystals mass back out of bottles what do I wash with ,,,,,,boiling water but probly won't go back to looking crystaline,,,,
Anyone tried the ceilo tek with loph6/4/21 Edit: This thread has matured to a simple TEK that will be supported here. Many thanks to all the great nexians that contributed to this work
Getting some preliminary interesting results from ethyl acetate and want to get a work thread going here.
Ethyl acetate is cheaper than Limonene and increasingly available at hardware stores (it has substituted MEK as a commercial solvent). As discussed in this musing post, it can absorb some water which can make it compatible with over the counter aquarium 9.6% sulfuric acid for salting directly out of the solvent (sulfate mescaline salts are the prettiest).
Ethyl acetate has been tested before with some positive results by for example someblackguy.
A wet microwaved paste is used since water seems to help move mescaline into the solvent as was discussed in general in the microwave assisted thread. Completely dried paste may work too as someblackguy mentioned.
The process shares similarities with commercial ethyl acetate coffee decaffeination: steam is used and water is present to help diffuse the free base alkaloid into ethyl acetate.
Steps:
1) Make a Ca(OH)2 and NaCl microwaved cacti steam paste. Details in spoiler.
2) Pull with ethyl acetate (first picture). This is not dried over MgSO4 since it should only contain ~1.9% water, and be able to absorb up to 3.4% water during neutralization. Avoid whipping into a souffle, slow stirring and diffusion time works best (in the coffee process, diffusion/time is sufficient).
3) To help with the next step (neutralization), a few drops of ethyl acetate tumeric extract ate added. This changes the color from yellow to orange (second picture).
4) Neutralize with 10% sulfuric acid, one drop at a time and making mixing well (water should be absorbed into the ethyl acetate). When neautralized, the orange color from the tumeric curcuming extract dissapears and "glitter" starts to form. This glitter is a mescaline sulfate candidate (3rd picture).
5) Next (ongoing) will be to collect/clean precipitate and test it (bioassay, analysis, etc).
The process is straight forward and simple. As an
Anyone typed the ceilo tek with loph,,,,,,
attempt #6 or 7 or 8... after reading loveall's post #1911 .. planned on trying the fumarate this time since kept getting goo. but never managed to acquire before had the opportunity again. @Loveall are you able to figure out which fumaraic acid or if this one would work ? are you in the desert?... wonder if thats how you tolerate 300gs h2o to 100gs cactus? i am in a humid environment and can barely tolerate 1:1.
instead, manipulated the available modifiable variables. froze the EA to ensure it wasn't over hydrated. no ice dropped out so assumed it was dry enough. did 1:1, 100g RO h2o to 100g cactus. crumb was completely wet, formed when gripped but pulls apart. also saw someone say not to depress the french press plunger too hard so put it on the scale and didn't put more than 1000g of pressure on it, was v gentle. the humidity in the room was ~43%.
did 100g cactus+ 25g miss pickles lime, mixed well, added 100g water, mixed well, sit for 10 min, added ea 200ml then 150ml x 5 or whatever to recover about a Liter. had some sediment, had to change filters about 4-5x. then added 5-6g citric acid over stir bar. this time i dont think i got goo. but whatever it was weren't nice xtals, stuck to the bottom. when decanted off, it dries as tan powder. did have a separate little jar that just got a pinch of CA into and left and it formed nice needle-like xtals. wishing it had been done with all of it... maybe next year if harvest allows. out of materials for last years growth.
did better this time. maybe no goo. the powder isn't white though. wonder if it could be washed? h2o rinse? did rinse the jar but the liquid just turns out tan and dont see a visible layer to separate or anything that could be filtered.
wonder if some sediment is from too much pulverization. def made it v powdery. almost wish it had been less pulverized but know that can affect the yield too?
instead, manipulated the available modifiable variables. froze the EA to ensure it wasn't over hydrated. no ice dropped out so assumed it was dry enough. did 1:1, 100g RO h2o to 100g cactus. crumb was completely wet, formed when gripped but pulls apart. also saw someone say not to depress the french press plunger too hard so put it on the scale and didn't put more than 1000g of pressure on it, was v gentle. the humidity in the room was ~43%.
did 100g cactus+ 25g miss pickles lime, mixed well, added 100g water, mixed well, sit for 10 min, added ea 200ml then 150ml x 5 or whatever to recover about a Liter. had some sediment, had to change filters about 4-5x. then added 5-6g citric acid over stir bar. this time i dont think i got goo. but whatever it was weren't nice xtals, stuck to the bottom. when decanted off, it dries as tan powder. did have a separate little jar that just got a pinch of CA into and left and it formed nice needle-like xtals. wishing it had been done with all of it... maybe next year if harvest allows. out of materials for last years growth.
did better this time. maybe no goo. the powder isn't white though. wonder if it could be washed? h2o rinse? did rinse the jar but the liquid just turns out tan and dont see a visible layer to separate or anything that could be filtered.
wonder if some sediment is from too much pulverization. def made it v powdery. almost wish it had been less pulverized but know that can affect the yield too?
oh yes, one other question... lets say i had 400g cactus powder... could the same EA be used to pull 100g at a time before salting to extract? should be able to, right? if some of these yields are 6-8%, the EA should be able to hold it? this is around 1-2%?
in case it's not clear... have a freshly recylced L or so of EA.
do 4 dough preparations(separately) using the same EA to mix/pull. then salt after pulling all 400g run 100g at a time.
100g cact + 25g lime + 100g h2o + 10 min rest, then EA 220, 150, 150, 150, 150 150
100g cact +25g lime + 100g h2o + 10 min rest, then EA from above, 220, 150, 150, 150, 150
another time
you get the idea... would loose around 70 or whatever g EA to the cactus powder but could just either add it each re-used run?
thoughts? could this work to get one higher yield salting? any issues?
in case it's not clear... have a freshly recylced L or so of EA.
do 4 dough preparations(separately) using the same EA to mix/pull. then salt after pulling all 400g run 100g at a time.
100g cact + 25g lime + 100g h2o + 10 min rest, then EA 220, 150, 150, 150, 150 150
100g cact +25g lime + 100g h2o + 10 min rest, then EA from above, 220, 150, 150, 150, 150
another time
you get the idea... would loose around 70 or whatever g EA to the cactus powder but could just either add it each re-used run?
thoughts? could this work to get one higher yield salting? any issues?
You did everything correctly.
The tan color has nothing to do with goo. It means some of your chlorophyll broke down when drying or with age, or your cacti had some brown spots. There is no known way to remove the tan color, but rest assured it is only cosmetic and has no detectable impact in practice.
To avoid any tan (=broken down chlorophyll) you need to use healthy cacti, dry them at low temp, and use the powder quickly.
The TEK already discusses this, you can read the FAQ section.
Fine powder results from using magnetic stir bar. The Tek describes this also. Sounds that you have figured out that no stirring means large xtals. You can read the TEK, it explains this.
Did you check for sediment before salting (also mentioned in the TEK)? If no sediment before salting, all the sediment after salting is product.
I think all your questions are already answered by the TEK. Please read it and if I am wrong let me know so I can update it. Thanks.
Your second+ batches will see 1%+ mescaline. So instead of adding 70g to the extract, I would do a 6th pull with new EA to rinse the used EA out (this will also add volume to the extract, but by a different amount).
This increases your EA volume used, a little bit but is worth it. It makes sense to rinse with more EA and the extract % increases.
1st batch, normal. No 6th pull.
2nd batch do a 6th pull with 70g fresh EA
3rd batch do a 6th pull with 140g fresh EA
4th batch do a 6th pull with 210g of fresh ES
For example, your last batch will have EA incoming with ~ 4% mescaline. After your last pull there will be 70ml * 0.04 = 280mg of mescaline. Rinse that out with fresh 210ml of fresh EA to get back 280*(210/280) = 210mg of mescaline.
Also, I would only do this for 1% yielding powders. For 5% yielding powders I would not.
Make sense?
yes, im sure it seems like the tek has not been read (thank you so much for this work, what a gift to us all it is that you all have put into this working living breathing healing document) but it has, many many times. after so many goo especially. just reporting .. wrong place? this time, it seems, went well.
is there a way to re crystalize? (tek talks ab goo rextalization only?) have maybe 2-3g now of fine dust/powder that should be mesc citrate. would like those nice long clear baby xtals. could that be gotten from the dust anyhow? had some of it stuck to the bottom of the jar that was dry, dissolved in warm water then in dehydrator, what's left is an oily residue. doesn't appear to be much, 3-500mg max? so something that happened between it being the powd mesc citrate into water and then evap didn't work. needs something to xtalize? in the past, which hasn't gone well, have dissolved what was thought to be active alk in the h2o used to hydrate the next batches to carry forward/attempt another xtalization. contemplating dissolving all the potentially recovered material into h2o used to hydrate cact powder .... should move into the EA in the pulls or no??
also, yes thank you for your input on the multiple pulls... i dont understand why nor know well enough to do anything other than what you suggest. the EA is avail, np. I think I see what you're saying... that by doing a final 6th pull with 210g/ml of EA it will recover what we estimate would be about 210mg of mesc citrate.
any word on the fumarate? thoughts on the environmental conditions? might be moving from the jungle to the desert. wonder if this will solve my dilemmas in the process.
is there a way to re crystalize? (tek talks ab goo rextalization only?) have maybe 2-3g now of fine dust/powder that should be mesc citrate. would like those nice long clear baby xtals. could that be gotten from the dust anyhow? had some of it stuck to the bottom of the jar that was dry, dissolved in warm water then in dehydrator, what's left is an oily residue. doesn't appear to be much, 3-500mg max? so something that happened between it being the powd mesc citrate into water and then evap didn't work. needs something to xtalize? in the past, which hasn't gone well, have dissolved what was thought to be active alk in the h2o used to hydrate the next batches to carry forward/attempt another xtalization. contemplating dissolving all the potentially recovered material into h2o used to hydrate cact powder .... should move into the EA in the pulls or no??
also, yes thank you for your input on the multiple pulls... i dont understand why nor know well enough to do anything other than what you suggest. the EA is avail, np. I think I see what you're saying... that by doing a final 6th pull with 210g/ml of EA it will recover what we estimate would be about 210mg of mesc citrate.
any word on the fumarate? thoughts on the environmental conditions? might be moving from the jungle to the desert. wonder if this will solve my dilemmas in the process.
A
Moving any goo into water and using it in your next extraction makes sense. If you want the long needle xtals don't use the magnetic stirrer.
Cheers and good luck.
I think fumarate works great try it.
Moving any goo into water and using it in your next extraction makes sense. If you want the long needle xtals don't use the magnetic stirrer.
Cheers and good luck.
I did 340g in 2 lots with the same ea,seemed to work but never done it before so not sure about loses or gains,,,,,anyone care to illaberate
Fumarate works great and appears to be less sensitive than citric to the water in EA.