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Kash's Advanced LSA Extraction

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1ce said:
Next time add the acid to distilled water, and adjust the ph via dropwise addition followed by stirring. You're not trying to win a marathon, you may absolutely add a few drops, and stir between ph measurements.
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Yes, I thought the same thing :)


DCM seemed to be yielding white crystals last night, but this morning all is left is very little light brown stuff.

I thought : maybe my ph test strips are bunk, so I added more amonia until it turned green/yellow for real this time (last night was pale yellow)

Pulled with DCM again but it seems to not be working once's more :(

I am lost now :/

I followed the tek to the letter except for when I added to much acid and when evaporating acetone. Would either of these two steps be the cause of my problem ? And if so, how ?

I still have my defat pulls, is it possible that lsa is in it ? I had frozen it last night to try and recuperate naphta, filtered it this morning and I thought hell, why not just evaporate it and see. There is something white mixed with some plant fats (clear).

Also, the seeds are not bunk : I once took only two of them and tripped. Maybe it is not lsa that is in them ? That little brown stuff sure is psychoactive ... :)

Hypothesis : seeds do not contain lsa but other alkaloids which are active ?
 
I understand what I just did now :3

I took the whole 100 seed extract that wasn't defatted enough thus leading to the brown product instead of it being white.


Will report on the experience later when back to normal state :D
 
So when it says to mix well, what does that actually mean? Last time I tried this I ended up with emulsions because I shook it in a masion jar at the mixing steps… should I not?
 
V01D said:
So when it says to mix well, what does that actually mean? Last time I tried this I ended up with emulsions because I shook it in a masion jar at the mixing steps… should I not?
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you should not shake. if anything gently roll the jar.
 
I might get some of my Seeds out as well after reading this Post.

Any advice how long they are storable?

Mine are sitting in a dark place dry for like 3 years.



Can anybody tell me if it is already not worth to try this TEK anymore after such a long period ?





Also: If I plan do proceed ALL my 1000 Seeds ... will the product be soluble in just 2,3 ml of Water ?

Because there is a very nice Jar where I would keep it safe and sadly there is only this limited volume. I know that it was told to dissolve the product of 100 seeds in 15 ml. But can I even dissolve 1000 in even less? (not sure if anybody has tried so far)


THXX
 
@Brennendes Wasser

The seeds are more than likely not good after 3 years unfortunately. Although if stored in a cool dark place there is a chance they may still be active. For future reference, know that you can store things for almost indefinitely in the freezer.

I would say with 1000 seeds it would be worth a try. You would need to adjust the procedure for the increased starting material.
 
hi there!

i've tryed to do the extraction but i think my acetone wasn't 100% pure.. there is alot of water and i can't evaporate more without time or any type of energy that could destroy the molecule. So, now i'll try to put the citric acid... and i'll back with more informations..

the water smells something like wood.. and have this yellow things, i think it's fat (idk)

but i didn't get the fluorescence with blacklight, so i don't know if i do something wrong.

anyway, i'll be back.
 
So what do you mean with not 100 % pure - it was possibly watery?

NEVER use solvents that contain water, it may shift their solvent capabilities into unwanted realms.

This does not apply for naphtha - it does not take up any water - but Acetone could catch water if its not 100 % closed - and this is every acetone in a regular flask.

So its not that dramatic, but on the other hand its so easy to make it dry with MgSO4 (I think its epsom salt??), just throw a dozen into it (its cheap) and let it sit there 1 day. I even leave it in the acetone all the time.



For the problem with the not totally dry product: You could use Calcium Chloride (not that cheap but still 15 $ should be enough forever as you can remove water from it in the oven by slowly heating up to 200 °C) and throw it in a box, then place your not completely dry product also in it and close it tight. This will soak up the last water out of it - NO heat required - not destroying anything =).
 
I'm curious how this would turn out using sodium bicarbonate instead of ammonia. It's more commonly available much less likely to drive the PH up too high.

Is this thread worth a sticky maybe ?
 
Kash said:
@Brennendes Wasser

The seeds are more than likely not good after 3 years unfortunately. Although if stored in a cool dark place there is a chance they may still be active. For future reference, know that you can store things for almost indefinitely in the freezer.

I would say with 1000 seeds it would be worth a try. You would need to adjust the procedure for the increased starting material.
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Damn, they really go bad even if they are kept from oxidation and light?

Hot summer is enough to do damage I guess?
 
Yes, the seed alks will go bad if they are, say, kept in a bag in a hot environment for extended periods. Or in a cool environment exposed. But sealed in a freezer will keep the actives in seeds safe.
 
Orion said:
I'm curious how this would turn out using sodium bicarbonate instead of ammonia. It's more commonly available much less likely to drive the PH up too high.

Is this thread worth a sticky maybe ?
Click to expand...

Someone is going to be diving back into this soon, but if I remember right Sodium Bicarb PH is not high enough to push LSA into freebase form.

Ammonia is available in hardware cleaning sections without additives, as well as internet market now days. It will usually go by some other product name however.
 
Hi Kash, in the tek you recommend using combining the LSA extract with some peppermint oil. Do you believe this converts the LSA into LSH? Some people say that this is a myth and it won't do anything. I wanted to know what you thought.
 
I believe it is stated elsewhere you can convert LSA to LSH by adding the LSA crystals to a bit of red wine, the acetylhyde in the wine provides the necessary reaction for the A to H to take place.
 
Years later...
I came back to thank you for all this free and advanced knowledge.
SWIM make some extract and seems worked fine, even without the ideal equipment, SWIM used caustic soda and diluted everything in a 1 liter flask to control the pH more precisely and without destroying the lsa, however, SWIM believe SWIM lost a good amount in this move. SWIM used fumaric acid and kept it in the freezer, soon will consume it.
 

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Kash said:
In response to a few pm's about subbing in materials... This procedure is the way SWIM has used with success and had zero problems every time. The materials can be procured EASILY without any specials licenses or access by anyone, and if you want a smooth extraction, use the materials mentioned.

That being said, SWIM beleives it would be possible to sub in some materials if people want to do so at their own RISK as I have not tried these...

Can recommend substituting ammonia and naptha. Ammonia can be possibly subbed with a decently concentrated sodium bicarb solution or a very carefully made light NaOH (Lye) or KOH solution, each requiring a pH of 9-9.5. If pH gets too high it will destroy the lsa, too low it wont extract. The naptha can be subbed with just about any organic solvent not miscible with H2O.

Tartaric acid could likely be subbed with fumaric acid.

As for the dcm/toluene, SWIM would really recommend just going to the small local hardware store and buying for 10$ in the solvent section... Other things may not extract as well and cause an emulsion. SWIM doesnt like Xylene smells horribly.
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hey when you say ammonia do you mean like cryogenic liquid ammonia or like ammonium hydroxide?
 
Kash said:
Orion said:
I'm curious how this would turn out using sodium bicarbonate instead of ammonia. It's more commonly available much less likely to drive the PH up too high.

Is this thread worth a sticky maybe ?
Click to expand...

Someone is going to be diving back into this soon, but if I remember right Sodium Bicarb PH is not high enough to push LSA into freebase form.

Ammonia is available in hardware cleaning sections without additives, as well as internet market now days. It will usually go by some other product name however.
Click to expand...

so ammonium hydroxide
 
Trying to revive this if anyone is still out there...

first off... thank you Kash. Second off... thank you Nexian comrades.

Here is a question: For the first solvent step - step 2 = extraction using anhydrous acetone in powdered seeds - why use straight acetone instead of a pinch of citric or fumaric or tartaric in the acetone??? Why not decrease pH at this step to help with extraction like it is done in the equivalent first steps of DMT extraction?
To try to answer myself: Fumaric, tartaric and citric LSA has too low or no solubility in acetone at room temp, therefore `natural` salt of LSA (a natural form soluble in acetone whatever it is - tannic?) would be preferred for it to jump into acetone, plus freebase LSA is also soluble. Please comment here if anyone is better informed. Or we are expecting LSA in seeds to be in freebase form?

Another question: At which step the blue fluor of LSA pops out under UV? Seeds don`t seem to have any blue and the green fluor in the 2nd step doesn`t look like LSA at all.

An observation:
- The green product of step 2 extraction while in the freezer heavily precipitates white clouds, certainly it isn`t all LSA in any form. Very likely to be fats and salts, obviously I am not sure at this point and will investigate further. However, I liked this because wherever LSA is at this point, it may be a separation process step.
 
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