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official extraction help thread

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I used 100 grams of mimosa hostilis. My solvend was wasbenzine, i have no idee wat the name is in other countrys. It is simulair like zippo lighter fuel. Still gonna do some pulls from the mix. And yes from the frezer.
 
Weetikniet87 said:
I used 100 grams of mimosa hostilis. My solvend was wasbenzine, i have no idee wat the name is in other countrys. It is simulair like zippo lighter fuel. Still gonna do some pulls from the mix. And yes from the frezer.
That's a good enough choice for a clean (and cleaning!) naphtha. Glad to hear of your success - how have the next pulls been?
 
Hi all good people!
I'm running an A/B extraction with 100g MHRB, all steps was ok until the first hexane pull after basify step. I got carried away and I stirred the two phases a little too much, now I find myself with a bad emulsion for a couple of days that shows no sign of resolving itself even with hot bath. any suggestions?
 
Protonix said:
Hi all good people!
I'm running an A/B extraction with 100g MHRB, all steps was ok until the first hexane pull after basify step. I got carried away and I stirred the two phases a little too much, now I find myself with a bad emulsion for a couple of days that shows no sign of resolving itself even with hot bath. any suggestions?

Try heating it longer, mixing it occasionally.

One love
 
The second pull was about 0.2 and the next pulls were not even worth trying. I gonna do a new mhrb mix tommorow. With the same sokvend. Perhapse the qaulity of the bark is not that great. I0 have about 1 grams total from 100gram mh.I am gonna try to fix some hetpane. But i dont know if it is allowd to have/order in ny country.
 
Protonix said:
Thanks all for the tips, tomorrow after work I try higher temp if still don't work grind up some more lye!
Grind up lye? Why would you want to do that? It's very soluble in water, to the point of being deliquescent in air. While it's liquefying from atmospheric moisture it is also absorbing carbon dioxide which reduces its efficacy as a base.
 
downwardsfromzero said:
Protonix said:
Thanks all for the tips, tomorrow after work I try higher temp if still don't work grind up some more lye!
Grind up lye? Why would you want to do that? It's very soluble in water, to the point of being deliquescent in air. While it's liquefying from atmospheric moisture it is also absorbing carbon dioxide which reduces its efficacy as a base.

Well I ground it for better dosing when I prepare pH10 solution, and of course for my complete ignorance to the fact that absorbing carbon dioxide reduce it's efficiency so thank you for the explanation! =)
 
Protonix said:
downwardsfromzero said:
Protonix said:
Thanks all for the tips, tomorrow after work I try higher temp if still don't work grind up some more lye!
Grind up lye? Why would you want to do that? It's very soluble in water, to the point of being deliquescent in air. While it's liquefying from atmospheric moisture it is also absorbing carbon dioxide which reduces its efficacy as a base.

Well I ground it for better dosing when I prepare pH10 solution, and of course for my complete ignorance to the fact that absorbing carbon dioxide reduce it's efficiency so thank you for the explanation! =)
You can always dilute your solution if it's too strong. Alternatively, get close to the required amount using the coarse material and only grind a small bit for the fine adjustment.

NaOH is sold in prill/pearl form precisely to minimise the hygroscopicity and CO2 absorption.
 
Ok, I update you on the situation, the prolonged hot baths have not had much effect, there has been an increase in the clear layer of hexane but not a striking one. To be honest, I don't like adding more lye to the emulsion to make it separate, so I did a little experimenting tonight.
First I separated the aqueous phase from the emulsion / clear solvent. Then I split the mess into three 50mL Falcon and repeated the process 2 more times with new 100mL of hexane. In total there are 9 Falcons of 50mL full of a foamy structures and some clear hexane.
I centrifuged the Falcons for half an hour in a centrifuge at 4000g at 15 ° C and the phases succesfully separated. So I recovered the solvent of the three pulls with a turkey baster into the crystallization becker.

In 50mL of emulsion there was 4-5mL of acqueous solution, about 0,2 to 1mL of a tenacious foam like emulsion residue and 44-45mL of clear Hexane.
At the end of the process I have a volume of hexane of about 290mL on the initial 300.

Today I start reducing the volume of hexane and crystallization in the freezer and will update you on the results.
 
Hmmm. Interesting reading. Awhile since I've done any of this. Inherited a second wash, supposedly, from someone. It's purple, as it should be, and supposedly the leftovers from a single wash A/B using naptha and lye
I don't know, it seems to be straight solvent with little to no plant matter in it. Tried PHing it and adding extra naptha and then freezing, which yielded a slop that has a separation point, though a few filtrations have yielded nothing. Any thoughts??
 
I'm currently using blab and i both sodium carbonate from a supermarket and there was no clouding happening so i'm pretty sure that it was sodium BIcarbonate so how could i save this mixture of fumarate and sodium bicarbonate
 
Hotcocksonly420 said:
I'm currently using blab and i both sodium carbonate from a supermarket and there was no clouding happening so i'm pretty sure that it was sodium BIcarbonate so how could i save this mixture of fumarate and sodium bicarbonate
It looks like there are some words missing from your question but you seem to be asking about basing DMT fumarate using sodium carbonate.

You could try heating the mixture over a pan of boiling water to drive off any excess CO2. Alternatively, you could simply roast a fresh amount of your putative, abortive sodium carbonate through one of the various methods - stainless steel pan, oven or microwave. This will convert any sodium bicarbonate into the carbonate and you can then use it as before.

Another possibility is that the carbonate is OK but some prior part of your extraction hasn't worked. Bunk bark, maybe? Before investing time in heating anything up, test the pH of a solution of your sodium carbonate. Beetroot juice or litmus should turn blue if the carbonate is good, and the solution should feel slightly soapy between your fingers. If you have a pH meter it should read about pH10.

So, if the carbonate turns out not to be the problem then it would be time to start troubleshooting the preceding parts of the extraction.
 
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