psilocybin
Rising Star
Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
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official extraction help thread
- Thread starter psilocybin
- Start date
meino said:
Apologies, 20ml of solvent should be sufficient.
One love
meino said:
It takes practice and learning. You should be pleased with yourself for taking the first steps
You will never regret purchasing a milligram scale.
One love
dombu
Rising Star
Using stainless steel tray for evaping instead of glass? is it ok or can it mess things up? I am asking this because I am getting little to no yield from my extractions.
Also about freeze precipitating in a 500ml beaker instead of a pyrex dish, will it affect the crystallization speed, yield?
Also about freeze precipitating in a 500ml beaker instead of a pyrex dish, will it affect the crystallization speed, yield?
dombu said:
Shouldn't change things up too much. What kind of water are you using in your extraction?
The smaller the volume the better it will precipitate. It'll probably be easier to scrape out of a dish.
One love
dombu said:
It could be a different variable that's hindering your yields, but I'd need more information.
One love
Bruce B.
moe.phreak
I am curious about yield ratios. If say you had 350 g of useful stuff, what is the yield of stuff you will end up with. I am new to this and haven't yet experienced what I know I need desperately. Any help is appreciated , I have Lye and Naphtha. Thank you.
Bruce B. said:
With MHRB, generally 1%-2% yield. With ACRB, closer to 1% yield.
One love
Hello, I am currently preforming my first extraction following Q21Q21’s vinegar/lime a/b tek : 2 (the fluffy white fun fest).
Some background on the extraction, I am using a small amount of MHRB (30g) with calcium hydroxide and naphtha.
I am currently in the middle of my first naphtha pull. My question is what is the stuff rising into the solvent? Is this a sign of emulsion? What is the second liquid layer under the solvent (it is a deep reddish brown color)? Is there any point in collecting that liquid? I’ve been giving it a hot/warm water bath for about an hour now and was going to continue for another hour before attempting to remove the naphtha into my freeze precipitation container (is this the right thing to do?) Any information given will be extremely helpful as I am just a humble novice. I’ve been browsing the forum for the past few days and I believe this is genuine magic glad to join the community! (Is there any way I can upload pictures I’ve taken to help you help me?)
Some background on the extraction, I am using a small amount of MHRB (30g) with calcium hydroxide and naphtha.
I am currently in the middle of my first naphtha pull. My question is what is the stuff rising into the solvent? Is this a sign of emulsion? What is the second liquid layer under the solvent (it is a deep reddish brown color)? Is there any point in collecting that liquid? I’ve been giving it a hot/warm water bath for about an hour now and was going to continue for another hour before attempting to remove the naphtha into my freeze precipitation container (is this the right thing to do?) Any information given will be extremely helpful as I am just a humble novice. I’ve been browsing the forum for the past few days and I believe this is genuine magic glad to join the community! (Is there any way I can upload pictures I’ve taken to help you help me?)
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Deep reddish brown liquid, i'd say that is probably water from the bark - your paste may be a bit too wet. I wouldn't keep that liquid, i'd add it back to the bark.
Or if it's not liquid, it might be actual dark particles and your paste might be too dry.
In both cases, you don't want them in your naphtha if it's bark particles, a coffee filter should catch them.
Yes the next step is to cleanly separate that naphtha and move on to freeze precipitation. You want zero drops of watery liquid in there.
Good luck, and feel free to ask more questions here, in chat, or in the official extraction help thread.
Or if it's not liquid, it might be actual dark particles and your paste might be too dry.
In both cases, you don't want them in your naphtha
if it's bark particles, a coffee filter should catch them.Yes the next step is to cleanly separate that naphtha and move on to freeze precipitation. You want zero drops of watery liquid in there.
Good luck, and feel free to ask more questions here, in chat, or in the official extraction help thread.
Jugginlow said:
To piggyback off of HT, ONLY retrieve the top solvent layer. Everything else stays. You may also want to evaporate down your solvent in a well ventilated area before placing in the freezer for freeze precipitation.
To add pictures, click "edit." You'll be brought to the screen where you initially composed your post. Under the text box, to the left is a check box that says " Attach files to this post?" Click the box, the click "post" and you will be brought to a new screen where you can attach your picture files.
One love
Thank you both for the extremely timely reply
Question about the evaporation process : what would be the best method? Is a heat lamp a good choice? How long should I let it evaporate for? And how much will it reduce the solvent by? Also could I preform the evaporation in the same container that I will freeze precipitate from? (Approx 30ml of solvent was used)
Question about the evaporation process : what would be the best method? Is a heat lamp a good choice? How long should I let it evaporate for? And how much will it reduce the solvent by? Also could I preform the evaporation in the same container that I will freeze precipitate from? (Approx 30ml of solvent was used)
Jugginlow said:
Yes, you can perform the evaporation in the same container. I recommend using a warm/hot water bath.
Whether (and how much) you should reduce, you can find out by blowing at the naphtha. When you see faint clouding where you blow, you are at a good saturation.
Jrodpd1985
Rising Star
Hello all, I appreciate any advice and information that I will hopefully receive soon. Hopefully we can keep it simple without contradictions.
I have tried two different methods, there are limited resources for materials locally and in California in general, I tend to be impatient, and have no experience with this sort of experiment.....
I'm underwhelmed by the results I've gotten thus far.
I started with a couple small runs, 100g of material each
The first is with lye, the second is with lime
I then did 500g lime run a day or two later.
As a solvent I'm using Zippo fuel, which may be the problem, as preferred solvent is unavailable in my state, however I will receive a shipment of a couple gallons today.... I think this may be the whole problem.
The first test run I did an acid wash with vinegar in a slow cooker for a few hours, strained strained, added a solution with lye, it got hot, it turned black, I let it sit for a day and a half. I added the solvent, swished it around periodically and lightly for about another 16 hours before pulling.
Second method acid wash for less time, left plant material in, mixed in a gram of lime per gram of material, let sit for maybe an hour or so mixing regularly. It smells like mortar, turns grey when I stir, and gets a dark layer on top when it suits. I added 1.5-2ml solvent per g of material while in a hot bath, stirring frequently and thoroughly without over doing it for an hour before pulling.
Poured in shallow baking dishes with suran wrap, after like 24 hours plenty of solvent sloshing around with a couple white boogers floating around and specs of white sprinkled around the bottom. Then it seems to stop progressing.
First of all let's make sure somebody has used these materials with success:
Zippo fluid
Chemstar type s lime: calcium hydrochloride magnesium hydrochlorid
I'm getting vmp today
Thanks so much
I have tried two different methods, there are limited resources for materials locally and in California in general, I tend to be impatient, and have no experience with this sort of experiment.....
I'm underwhelmed by the results I've gotten thus far.
I started with a couple small runs, 100g of material each
The first is with lye, the second is with lime
I then did 500g lime run a day or two later.
As a solvent I'm using Zippo fuel, which may be the problem, as preferred solvent is unavailable in my state, however I will receive a shipment of a couple gallons today.... I think this may be the whole problem.
The first test run I did an acid wash with vinegar in a slow cooker for a few hours, strained strained, added a solution with lye, it got hot, it turned black, I let it sit for a day and a half. I added the solvent, swished it around periodically and lightly for about another 16 hours before pulling.
Second method acid wash for less time, left plant material in, mixed in a gram of lime per gram of material, let sit for maybe an hour or so mixing regularly. It smells like mortar, turns grey when I stir, and gets a dark layer on top when it suits. I added 1.5-2ml solvent per g of material while in a hot bath, stirring frequently and thoroughly without over doing it for an hour before pulling.
Poured in shallow baking dishes with suran wrap, after like 24 hours plenty of solvent sloshing around with a couple white boogers floating around and specs of white sprinkled around the bottom. Then it seems to stop progressing.
First of all let's make sure somebody has used these materials with success:
Zippo fluid
Chemstar type s lime: calcium hydrochloride magnesium hydrochlorid
I'm getting vmp today
Thanks so much
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
If you've typed "hydrochloride" correctly then your lime is rubbish. Are you sure it's not hydroxide?
You can add the solvent immediately after adding lye to an acid cook, as long as it's not so hot that the solvent boils. In that case, leave it to cool to around hand hot.
Calcium hydroxide, on the other hand, can benefit from sitting for a while longer. This might not be necessary after an acid cook though. And you could strain out the plant material seeing as the actives should have been extracted into the acidic water.
2 or 3 subsequent boils with fresh water each time would ensure that all actives were collected from the plant material.
Here's a couple of handy threads to read:
DMT Extraction Overview
Basic Chemistry
You can add the solvent immediately after adding lye to an acid cook, as long as it's not so hot that the solvent boils. In that case, leave it to cool to around hand hot.
Calcium hydroxide, on the other hand, can benefit from sitting for a while longer. This might not be necessary after an acid cook though. And you could strain out the plant material seeing as the actives should have been extracted into the acidic water.
2 or 3 subsequent boils with fresh water each time would ensure that all actives were collected from the plant material.
Here's a couple of handy threads to read:
DMT Extraction Overview
Basic Chemistry
neurobloom
Established member
Hello dear fellow nexians
I've found an Acacia acuminata wide phyllode variety in a botanical garden nearby. It's the only active acacia species I was able to find where am from after three years of searching.
I had the permission to harvest some of its trunk and branch bark with some phyllodes and twigs. The total biomass after drying is 700 grams.
On the first attempt I shredded some trunk bark with hands and cooked in tap water with some vinegar twice one hour each. Drank this with Syrian rue. I got minor threshold effects
Second attempt was with 100g of mixture of trunk and branch bark cut with a scissor to small prices and fed to a coffee grinder. Seived and ground again the coarse particles again. Only little fibers was left and thrown with the rest of the powder in a ziplock bag with some vinegar in the fridge to freeze and thaw 4 times.
I poured the thawed sludge to a glass jar and added around 300ml of dry isopropyl alcohol and mixed well then left to settle. The isopropyl turned very dark red. Poured the isopropyl to another jar and left the sludge to drop as much isopropyl as possible then squeezed the sludge with a spoon to get as much alcohol as I could then added more fresh dry isopropyl to the sludge ...mixed and poured again.
The sludge was then cooked in spring water twice for one hour each. No vinegar was added this time as the sludge already still contained some vinegar and isopropyl from the previous pull with isopropyl. The two boils was combined with the isopropyl pulls and reduced to around 200ml. Took a small sample of this reduced solution a shot glass worth of volume and defatted it with chloroform and left the chloroform to try which left behind some transparent oil. Then I based the sample with sodium hydroxide and pulled again with chloroform. Upon drying the chloroform I was left with a yellowish oil that strongly smelled of new sneakers and some light menthol scent. Excited by this small test I did the same defat on the rest of the acidic reduced solution but only used a small amount of chloroform for defatting around 30 ml. Then basified and pulled with 50 ml chloroform.
To basify I used NAOH solution which I added gradually. First the solution clouded with some white sedimentation appearing upon each small portion of sodium hydroxide solution added. The solution first turned viscous then upon further NAOH addition the solution turned thin again.
I left the solution to basify a little further then pulled with 50 ml chloroform. Although there was some sedimentation settling between the aqueous and the non polar phase this didn't cause emulations. Mixed the two layers with a spoon and let it seperate 4 times then pulled chloroform with a syringe into a small dish to evaporate blowing on it in a well ventilated area to speed up the evaporation.
To my dismay I was left with only a tiny amount of yellowish oil but it smelled strongly of Tryptamine alkaloids. A mixture of rubber and menthol smell. I'd say around 70mg. I mixed this with a small amount of tabacco and rolled it into a joint. Lit it up and inhaled continuously and slowly as much as i could take into my lungs and held it in there for 6 seconds...exhaled took a deep fresh air breath exhaled ..inhaled another lungful from the joint. Smooth smoke that tasted just like menthol or mothballs.. more like a mouthful of mothballs.
My heartrate was going up a bit I felt slight headspace and flashing lights under my eylid but that was it .. no visuals. There was little left from the joint by then so I took half a lungful of that which finished the joint. Held and exhaled as before. Nothing ... I was just left feeling a body high.
Where could I have gone wrong in the extraction?
Is it common to have such low yield from acacia acuminata wide phyllode?
Shouldn't the freeze and thaw cycles in vinegar assist with breaking the bark cells ?
Wasn't the isopropyl soaks supposed to enhance the solubility of the Tryptamines alkaloids in the bark? Even cooked the powder twice after that in spring water just to make sure I collected everything that's in the bark.
It's August the hottest time of summer in North Africa should I have waited to late summer summer like late August? Quiet disappointed after all these years I been searching for active acacias where am from only to find one and get these tiny amount of extract from 100 grams.
I have 600 grams left of a mixture of trunk and branch with some phyllodes all of which I ground to very fine shreds in special grinding store. I will add pictures of the while tree ,the phyllodes and the finely shredded material.
I really don't want to waste the remaining material in another trial until I have learned at least what mistakes I could have done. Il really hoping that it was a mistake from my part in extracting rather than having a low yielding material.
I've found an Acacia acuminata wide phyllode variety in a botanical garden nearby. It's the only active acacia species I was able to find where am from after three years of searching.
I had the permission to harvest some of its trunk and branch bark with some phyllodes and twigs. The total biomass after drying is 700 grams.
On the first attempt I shredded some trunk bark with hands and cooked in tap water with some vinegar twice one hour each. Drank this with Syrian rue. I got minor threshold effects
Second attempt was with 100g of mixture of trunk and branch bark cut with a scissor to small prices and fed to a coffee grinder. Seived and ground again the coarse particles again. Only little fibers was left and thrown with the rest of the powder in a ziplock bag with some vinegar in the fridge to freeze and thaw 4 times.
I poured the thawed sludge to a glass jar and added around 300ml of dry isopropyl alcohol and mixed well then left to settle. The isopropyl turned very dark red. Poured the isopropyl to another jar and left the sludge to drop as much isopropyl as possible then squeezed the sludge with a spoon to get as much alcohol as I could then added more fresh dry isopropyl to the sludge ...mixed and poured again.
The sludge was then cooked in spring water twice for one hour each. No vinegar was added this time as the sludge already still contained some vinegar and isopropyl from the previous pull with isopropyl. The two boils was combined with the isopropyl pulls and reduced to around 200ml. Took a small sample of this reduced solution a shot glass worth of volume and defatted it with chloroform and left the chloroform to try which left behind some transparent oil. Then I based the sample with sodium hydroxide and pulled again with chloroform. Upon drying the chloroform I was left with a yellowish oil that strongly smelled of new sneakers and some light menthol scent. Excited by this small test I did the same defat on the rest of the acidic reduced solution but only used a small amount of chloroform for defatting around 30 ml. Then basified and pulled with 50 ml chloroform.
To basify I used NAOH solution which I added gradually. First the solution clouded with some white sedimentation appearing upon each small portion of sodium hydroxide solution added. The solution first turned viscous then upon further NAOH addition the solution turned thin again.
I left the solution to basify a little further then pulled with 50 ml chloroform. Although there was some sedimentation settling between the aqueous and the non polar phase this didn't cause emulations. Mixed the two layers with a spoon and let it seperate 4 times then pulled chloroform with a syringe into a small dish to evaporate blowing on it in a well ventilated area to speed up the evaporation.
To my dismay I was left with only a tiny amount of yellowish oil but it smelled strongly of Tryptamine alkaloids. A mixture of rubber and menthol smell. I'd say around 70mg. I mixed this with a small amount of tabacco and rolled it into a joint. Lit it up and inhaled continuously and slowly as much as i could take into my lungs and held it in there for 6 seconds...exhaled took a deep fresh air breath exhaled ..inhaled another lungful from the joint. Smooth smoke that tasted just like menthol or mothballs.. more like a mouthful of mothballs.
My heartrate was going up a bit I felt slight headspace and flashing lights under my eylid but that was it .. no visuals. There was little left from the joint by then so I took half a lungful of that which finished the joint. Held and exhaled as before. Nothing ... I was just left feeling a body high.
Where could I have gone wrong in the extraction?
Is it common to have such low yield from acacia acuminata wide phyllode?
Shouldn't the freeze and thaw cycles in vinegar assist with breaking the bark cells ?
Wasn't the isopropyl soaks supposed to enhance the solubility of the Tryptamines alkaloids in the bark? Even cooked the powder twice after that in spring water just to make sure I collected everything that's in the bark.
It's August the hottest time of summer in North Africa should I have waited to late summer summer like late August? Quiet disappointed after all these years I been searching for active acacias where am from only to find one and get these tiny amount of extract from 100 grams.
I have 600 grams left of a mixture of trunk and branch with some phyllodes all of which I ground to very fine shreds in special grinding store. I will add pictures of the while tree ,the phyllodes and the finely shredded material.
I really don't want to waste the remaining material in another trial until I have learned at least what mistakes I could have done. Il really hoping that it was a mistake from my part in extracting rather than having a low yielding material.
Attachments
neurobloom
Established member
The grinding store I used to powderize my materials grinds spices so there is some contamination of spices in my material "Caraway" to be exact as a left over inside the machine from the last customer. Could such small contamination effect the extraction this time? have extracted mescaline from bredgesii Cactus successfully countless of times before this. Also managed to extract some alkaloids from phalaris brachystachys in the past but failed to vape it appropriately. I just have no experience in vaping Tryptamines but I've had one amazing beautiful experience with an oral brew made of phalaris brachystachys and harmala extract.
Also the acaia bark smelled strongly of raspberry jam when still fresh and sticky I guess that's another strong sign I am barking the right tree? That smell has become more faint as the bark and Phyllodes been drying in my cupboard for around two months now.
Also the acaia bark smelled strongly of raspberry jam when still fresh and sticky I guess that's another strong sign I am barking the right tree? That smell has become more faint as the bark and Phyllodes been drying in my cupboard for around two months now.