psilocybin
Rising Star
Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
Bemerty said:I'm a bit of a newb here, but I've tried and failed at one extraction before.
I've been looking at the tek found here:
DMT extraction using lye (sodium hydroxide) and naphtha
Crystallized DMT can be obtained from its natural plant sources using a number of chemistry extraction techniques. This article documents the procedure for one of the most common DMT methods, known as the acid-base (A/B) extraction.psychonautwiki.org
But I've just read something concerning on these forums.
The recipe says you should boil before PHing, sure, but it also says that you should bring it back close to boiling once fully PHed up, naphtha included (although in a pan of water off the direct heat).
The thing I read elsewhere on the forum says that it's not only dangerous to heat up lye water, but also that you're turning your goodness from a salt, that can stand the heat, to a FB, which can't.
Should I follow this tech, but just keep it cold at the lye stage, or am I following a bad tek?
That 80°C figure for the boiling point was always contentious in the absence of a pressure reading. There's a general consensus now that it's for conditions of fairly stiff vacuum rather than standard atmospheric pressure.Voidmatrix said:The boiling point of DMT is around 80C. Boiling water is around 100C. But bear in mind, the DMT will not be in direct contact with that amount of heat in the water. However, again, you don't need to boil it.
Max Ion Step 4 said:Dissolve apprx 40g of NaOH (Lye) in a minimal amount of COOL filtered water (approx 100ml) and add to the acidic/saline mix.
Presumably you mean a solution using 100% lye. That's a comment on the purity of lye - which incidentally will never be 100% because of absorption of moisture and carbon dioxide from the air - rather than the concentration of the solution. A 100% lye "solution" would simply be molten sodium hydroxide, and you don't want to be anywhere near that!Byrne117 said:Hey everyone Im new to extraction I wanted to know how to make a 100% lye solution can anyone help ?
downwardsfromzero said:You may (well, you will) find that your Wundbenzin evaporates inconveniently quickly. Waschbenzin is less volatile and evaporates cleanly [but it's still best to check first] even if you're substituting a technical grade solvent for the pharmaceutical grade that you appear to prefer. Having the base liquid at 50°C when adding 40/60 naphtha will cause a large portion of the naphtha to boil immediately and the resulting vapour cloud could be quite dangerous.
You can keep the Wundbenzin for recrystallisations though.
One disadvantage of vinegar is that it makes the house stink so you could use something like citric or ascorbic acid instead. And MHRB is slightly acidic anyhow...
When it comes to skimming or otherwise separating the naphtha it's good practice to use an intermediate vessel such as a borosilicate glass jug just in case you accidentally pick up a few drops of base soup with the naphtha. And don't worry about getting all the naphtha after each pull - the remnants will simply end up in the next pull and practically nothing is lost.
And your posting etiquette is just fine. It's good to see your thoughtful and well-explained approach.
First: Safety! Face shield/glasses, gloves!Byrne117 said:Hey new to this extraction thing just wanted to know how I would make a 100% lye solution to extract with help would much be appreciated![]()
BigGGG said:First: Safety! Face shield/glasses, gloves!Byrne117 said:Hey new to this extraction thing just wanted to know how I would make a 100% lye solution to extract with help would much be appreciated![]()
Then just weigh out the lye and dissolve it in water.
You should do this slowly as the water will heat up, like 10g at a time.
Most extraction teks ask for a 25% solution, that would be 25g dissolved in 100 ml water.
I just made 3 more pulls with the already used Naptha. Lets see what comes around.Now i'm curios if it makes sense to do more pulls? Since it isn't that difficult and time consuming, i'm thinking about make another 3 Naptha Pulls to see if there is any DMT left in the solution!?
I ordered some smaller skimming tool, hope it works. But at the last pull i managed to skim even more thin layer.Also there is a small layer of Naptha left in the bottle which i'm unable to skim because i always get some of the lye mixture with it.
???Also i'm wondering how long the Mixture of MHRB/Water/Lye can stand around?
???And, how do i properly store the DMT now, i have put it into a plastic container, but would glas be better?
All i read in the nomans tek faq's is, that it the harvest will lose quality. Since i used used naptha at the latest pull i will see it myself. But any experiences would be nice!And, last question, how often can i use the Naptha again for more pulls?
lololAFOAF said:shaking it too hard could cause it to heat up and explode
downwardsfromzero said:lololAFOAF said:shaking it too hard could cause it to heat up and explode
Just how hard are you thinking you might be shaking it?
[youtube]The main problem is more that pressure might build up from the solvent vaporizing, which cause leakage of caustic and/or flammable liquids through the lid. If your jar is really poor quality the pressure could cause it to crack and, while that's a bit of a catastrophe, it's not really the same as something actually exploding.
Just make sure there is adequate ventilation for the solvent fumes and that you exclude all possible sources of ignition. You seem to be misapprehending a reactivity hazard which is basically non-existent. There is no risk of an explosive = chemical reaction during this extraction as long as the safety procedures are followed.
The points where things might get warm are where the lye is added to the water. For that to be actually dangerous you have to add a small enough amount of warm enough water to a large enough amount of lye. That would be in complete contradiction of safe procedure of course. The extraction won't be getting hot from your shaking it. It's the fact that you're warming a mixture containing naphtha that causes a pressure build up from the vaporization of the naphtha. That is why it needs to be burped.
It's very unlikely you'll reach a compression ratio that will cause it to go off like a Diesel engine. The jar would fail before reaching that point, or you'd already be heating it to the autoignition temperature of naphtha and would probably notice that you're in trouble before then anyhow.
Heat increases the solubility of DMT in naphtha. Agitation increases the surface contact between the base soup and the naphtha and increases the rate at which DMT passes from the soup into the naphtha. Fine particulates increase the likelihood of emulsion formation. It seems your yield has benefited from you being a bit rougher with your extraction. As long as you avoid abrupt thermal shocks and sources of ignition you should be fine.
Just what instructions have you been following? What caused you to think that shaking the mixture would heat it up and cause an explosion risk? Have you been using nitroglycerine as your extraction solvent or something?
Just what instructions have you been following?
What caused you to think that shaking the mixture would heat it up and cause an explosion risk?