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Hey guys, I just re-xed some spice but when I took the glass with it out of the freezer and turned it upside down to dry, most of the spice fell on the paper below the glass and I didn't realize it quick enough...:(

I now have some papermache with spice...:?

My question is, can I put the paper with the spice on it back in my base to recrystallize it?
Or do I have to do a full A/B to seperate it? Is it even possible to seperate the spice from the paper?
 
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chosenname said:
Hey guys, I just re-xed some spice but when I took the glass with it out of the freezer and turned it upside down to dry, most of the spice fell on the paper below the glass and I didn't realize it quick enough...:(

I now have some papermache with spice...:?

My question is, can I put the paper with the spice on it back in my base to recrystallize it?
Or do I have to do a full A/B to seperate it? Is it even possible to seperate the spice from the paper?
Click to expand...
No. Wash out the DMT with dilute vinegar and then treat it like a normal extraction (from the vinegar).
 
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Willd4 said:
So if someone were too try Kash's LSA extract, and wound up with an orangey substance at the end, would anyone know where things went wrong?
Click to expand...
Is that orangey in colour or in flavour?

You'll have to go into a bit more detail than that. You may have thought you were following Kash's LSA tek but what did you really do?
 
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100g of hbwr ground and stirred in Anhydrous acetone for 4+ hours, repeat, dried
Scraped and mixed with acidic solution (Ph around 3-4), defeat with naphtha, add ammonia until basic and yellow color, DCM used to pull 3x until green, evaporated DCM, left with an orange colored residue with some brownish smudges.
 
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Hi all, my apologies for making a whole new topic about this in the "Welcome discussion" section, I only just stumbled onto this thread. I'll just C+P what I wrote in there:

Looking to perform first extraction soon with AANPRB. I've been reading up on it for a while now but I just have a few remaining questions I'm looking to get answered before I give this thing a nudge.

My first question has to do with Earthwalker's tek. I'm looking to add a freeze/thaw cycle to the beginning of the tek and so far I've got the layout like so:
1. Powder 100g bark in coffee grinder.
2. Put in ziplock bag with and cover with 500mL filtered water.
3. Heat mixture lightly in water bath (40-50°C).
4. Return to room temp. and transfer for freeze.
5. When frozen, take out, thaw and refreeze.
6. Repeat steps 4-5 two to four times.
I believe I found a tek incorporating the acidification step during this freeze/thaw cycle but have not been able to find it and was wondering if this would be a possible substitute for the acid bath step.

My second question (or rather questions) has to do with the hot water bathing. What is the best method? What is the best temperature range? If using stove top, what is the ideal way to cycle on/off? In warming NPS, I've heard it is best to do with cap off as to promote evaporation of low-degree NPS, is this true? Will it suffice to put folded cloth at bottom of pot for jar to sit on? Ideally I would like to use a sous vide but if heating via electric stove top is also fine, I'll stick with that.

Thirdly and finally, in reference to this reddit post: https://www.reddit.com/r...inata_extraction_notes/ , it shows evidence to suggest AANPRB doesn't require defatting and I was wondering if that means I could eliminate the mini A/B clean-up stage at the end of Earthwalker's tek as to save on time and resources.

Thanks very much in advance.
 
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What should I do?
I’m using the Q21Q21 d limonene/lime tec. Fourth extraction on my first attempt at spice. Quart jar with 200 g mhrb I’ve been extracting. One pint jar 3/4 full of vinegar from two washes. One pint jar 3/4 full of limonene. Bet you can guess which one my distracted ass dumped on the mhrb.....

It took about 30 seconds to register. I then filtered out all of the vinegar that would pour. I now have 1/3 pint of reddish brown vinegar.

1. How Will I be able to re-extract the spice that was in the vinegar that absorbed into the mhrb on a future extraction? Do I need to do anything else, like add lime? Would evaporating the vinegar by spreading the mhrb in a pan to dry be advised before doing another extraction?

2. What do I do with this 1/3 pint of dark vinegar? It’s already separated some. I’m not interested in purchasing petrochemicals or lye for such a small amount.

My current thoughts are to just mix that vinegar into the mhrb and air/oven dry it all till crumbly, add a couple tbs of lime and extract as before, but I’d like to hear any suggestions someone might have first. Thank you in advance!
 
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Willd4 said:
100g of hbwr ground and stirred in Anhydrous acetone for 4+ hours, repeat, dried
Scraped and mixed with acidic solution (Ph around 3-4), defeat with naphtha, add ammonia until basic and yellow color, DCM used to pull 3x until green, evaporated DCM, left with an orange colored residue with some brownish smudges.
Click to expand...

Hey there!

So I cannot really see if this post also implies a question, but it seems as if you wonder why you have just smudge at the end.

So I think you used overkill solvents.

Acetone will also drag a lot of fats, much more than directly boiling it with pH 3-4 water.

Why not used pH 3-4 water directly from the beginning? It is shown that this step also can drag out ~ 1,5 % Spice if the bark is good.

Because THEN you would not have to do the defat step. Because if defating with Naphtha (or DCM) on this aqueous solution, you would not even get a residue when evaporating. It is simply as good as this when using MHRB. So if you already got MHRB, try to focus on the regualr solvents ;P

Then afterwards when you extracted the basic solution with DCM, this again is a hardcore solvent.

No wonder it pulled like ANYTHING out of the solution. DCM is indeed a very nice lab solvent. But again here you have 2 problems:

1.) too much Junk with it
2.) you need to evaporate everything to get your goodies. Not needed when doing the freeze precipitation with Napthta.

To save your brown smudge: Throw either Naphtha on it or if you indeed got access to lab solvents just use n-Hexane/n-Heptane.

Your Spice will be inside this smudge definetly and those 2 solvents will get it out selectively. Heat it up to 60 °C+, when placing it in the freezer the crystals will likely be brown. Repeat on them and you may get nearly white crystals.
 
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newbiespiceguy said:
Hi all, my apologies for making a whole new topic about this in the "Welcome discussion" section, I only just stumbled onto this thread. I'll just C+P what I wrote in there: ...
Click to expand...

1. Question:

Someone mentioned to acidify the bark while doing the freeze/precip and you want to ask if you can also JUST do the freeze/precip without acidifying?

Thats what I understand from this question.

If so, then of course, yes you can just acidify it later on, but of course before starting to cook it (if that is mentioned in this TEK, but I guess so).

But actually I would acidify it right from the beginning. No really need, but just from thinking about it:

Your goodies are more likely to be released upon acidic environment. So the sooner you acidify, the more time you already have in the environment that promotes release of goodies. Yes in your freezer, there will not be much business. But you unfreeze it again and again and so on and it's not a deal to just throw in the acid sooner. So it's definetly not needed, but why not just doing it?


2. Question:

So you want to ask about the best temperature settings for cooking and for extracting?

I recommend 75 - 85 °C for the acidic cook. It seems that Spice does not get destroyed at 100 °C nevertheless, but the range I mentioned is definetly enough to get everything out.

For extrating with your NPS: Heat the mixture to the lower boiling point of your NPS. Regular Naphtha has 60 - 80 °C - if using Naphtha with C6-C7 hydrocarbons. Thats the regular one and you definetly should use this one and no others! So 50 - 60 °C is very good for the whole mixture. But dont forget to put a cover on top so the evaporation which COULD just start stays at a minimum.

I dont get what you mean with folded cloth at the bottom sorry =(
Heating on an electronic stove is very good, but you have to figure out before at what setting you got either ~ 80 °C for cooking or ~ 60 °C for NPS-extraction. If you do not want to make great measurements, just heat it with a setting you think of and then always check temperature and adjust permanently.

3. Question:

I dont know, at least MHRB does not require one.
Never ever heard of AANPRB hahaha ... so maybe somebody can answer this. But if you do not get any answer you have to find out. At least ONE TIME do it and then evaporate it. Then you will know if you need to do it the other times. If you got a hardcore scale you could just measure the weight of your NPS of the defat before and after. Otherwise evaporate and check if you got stuff in it.

Good Luck!
 
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Luther said:
What should I do?
I’m using the Q21Q21 d limonene/lime tec. Fourth extraction on my first attempt at spice. Quart jar with 200 g mhrb I’ve been extracting. One pint jar 3/4 full of vinegar from two washes. One pint jar 3/4 full of limonene. Bet you can guess which one my distracted ass dumped on the mhrb.....
Click to expand...

So sadly I don't know this TEK, but maybe I can give some thoughts on this. Also maybe you can answer my questions so I can answer back better.

1.) So you had a vinegar solution that contained your Spice. And you threw this into a bin with MHRB. Then you got the MHRB 30 seconds later out of it. So you are left again with your vinegar solution and vinegar-wet MHRB.

Your concerns are that now there is some vinegar on and inside your MHRB that contains goodies.

I would say 30 seconds is not long enough that the vinegar has really absorbed into the root bark. So if I understand it correctly and you got your vinegar solution AND your wet root bark, there should still be nearly all your goodies in your vinegar solution. Do you know the volume before? If you had 100 ml of vinegar solution and now it is 95 ml, then only 5 % of your spice will be sticking on top and inside the MHRB.

To get it back just put some more water on your MHRB. Then mix it for maybe 20 minutes and this should disperse all your spice evenly inside this new added water. Then decant it and reduce the water so you have like some ml of vinegar solution that now should contain nearly most of the spice that hanged on top / inside the MHRB. This could be combined with the vinegar that you decanted right after the 30 seconds.

Hope I got you right, if not you could explain =)


2.) So I dont know where this 1/3 pint vinegar is coming from. Is it the remaining vinegar that you got back after separating it from the MHRB? Isnt it then just the same as you had before, prior to throwing the MHRB in it?

So you always say *Vinegar*, but I guess its a solution of Water with X % Vinegar, like 10 % Vinegar in water, isnt it?

And now there is some Spice trapped in it that you want to use?

I guess then dont throw it on your bark, but just throw in lime until it gets basified to pH ~ 10+ and then start extracting with Limonene.

I really dont know about Limonene and Spice, so I dont know if you use it just like you would do it with Naphtha. But with the latter one I would simply basify all aqueous solutions that contain your Spice and then pull the Spice out with Naphtha and freeze precipitate it.

If Limonene works the same in this TEK, just do it like this. No need to evaporate it onto your bark and pull again with Limonene, except if there is still Spice inside your bark and you want to just extract from your 2 things in 1 pull together.

Again: I dont know about this TEK and now I have to leave, the article about it is pretty long Oô hope this still helps
 
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Brennendes Wasser said:
newbiespiceguy said:
Hi all, my apologies for making a whole new topic about this in the "Welcome discussion" section, I only just stumbled onto this thread. I'll just C+P what I wrote in there: ...
Click to expand...

1. Question:

Someone mentioned to acidify the bark while doing the freeze/precip and you want to ask if you can also JUST do the freeze/precip without acidifying?

Thats what I understand from this question.

If so, then of course, yes you can just acidify it later on, but of course before starting to cook it (if that is mentioned in this TEK, but I guess so).

But actually I would acidify it right from the beginning. No really need, but just from thinking about it:

Your goodies are more likely to be released upon acidic environment. So the sooner you acidify, the more time you already have in the environment that promotes release of goodies. Yes in your freezer, there will not be much business. But you unfreeze it again and again and so on and it's not a deal to just throw in the acid sooner. So it's definetly not needed, but why not just doing it?


2. Question:

So you want to ask about the best temperature settings for cooking and for extracting?

I recommend 75 - 85 °C for the acidic cook. It seems that Spice does not get destroyed at 100 °C nevertheless, but the range I mentioned is definetly enough to get everything out.

For extrating with your NPS: Heat the mixture to the lower boiling point of your NPS. Regular Naphtha has 60 - 80 °C - if using Naphtha with C6-C7 hydrocarbons. Thats the regular one and you definetly should use this one and no others! So 50 - 60 °C is very good for the whole mixture. But dont forget to put a cover on top so the evaporation which COULD just start stays at a minimum.

I dont get what you mean with folded cloth at the bottom sorry =(
Heating on an electronic stove is very good, but you have to figure out before at what setting you got either ~ 80 °C for cooking or ~ 60 °C for NPS-extraction. If you do not want to make great measurements, just heat it with a setting you think of and then always check temperature and adjust permanently.

3. Question:

I dont know, at least MHRB does not require one.
Never ever heard of AANPRB hahaha ... so maybe somebody can answer this. But if you do not get any answer you have to find out. At least ONE TIME do it and then evaporate it. Then you will know if you need to do it the other times. If you got a hardcore scale you could just measure the weight of your NPS of the defat before and after. Otherwise evaporate and check if you got stuff in it.

Good Luck!
Click to expand...

Thanks very much for the prompt reply, really helped clear up a lot! The AANPRB is the abbreviation for Acacia Acuminata Narrow Phyllode Root Bark, I've only seen it used once like that but it makes it a helluva lot easier to type it out so I'm hoping it will catch on hahaha. I think I will do as you said just to see if I can get away with it and if not, no harm in trying :d
 
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Thanks for the response Bernendes Wasser. Allow me to clarify. Newbie unfamiliar with proper terms, etc.

Quick q21q21 tec 1 overview. Add water and 5% vinegar to mhrb. Add lime to basify. Add limonene to pull full spectrum jimjam. Pour off limonene. Add 5% vinegar to limonene and shake to ?salt? the vinegar with the spice. Pour off limonene and evaporate vinegar and leftover is full spectrum spice per tec.

The vinegar I mentioned in the previous post that I dumped in the mhrb by mistake was this salted vinegar, ready for evap. (I did not add any sodium chloride, I understand this is the term for vinegar impregnated with spice).

1. Do I need to do anything to the mhrb that is now “super” acidified (my term) to make the spice easier to be reabsorbed by the limonene the next time I do a pull? IE add more lime or air dry the mhrb to evap the vinegar leaving the spice. As I understand it that vinegar is dmt acitate And would not be reabsorbed by the limonene unless it’s basified again?

2. Is there any easy way to clean up the “salted” vinegar that I drained back out of the mhrb to remove tannins etc? I suspect not with only d limonene and pickling lime on hand. That’s why I was thinking of adding to the already acidic mhrb and just repulling it.

Thanks!
 
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Ok so do I get this correctly:

You throw your product in shape of the Vinegar onto mhrb instead of evaporating it.

Then 30 seconds later you separated both again. So you got still that vinegar and WET mhrb.

So you still have your vinegar as it is and A LITTLE is now moistened at your mhrb. Is this correct this way?



1.) So the mhrb is only wet from the vinegar. You removed like 99,9 % of the vinegar by decanting and now the mhrb is only slighly moist like if you just dumped them into water and got them out again.

Then there will be like nearly no vinegar at all remaining on/in the bark. The acetic acid is still in the vinegar solution. It does not ABSORB into the mhrb. Some water can get absorbed into the bark. But within 30 seconds there will only be like 0,01 % of your soup gotten inside your bark. Just an estimate, no idea, but its like NOTHING, no worries =)

Therefore the bark is not hyper acidified, you would have to leave it in there for 10 minutes or more to have indeed acidified bark insides.

Therefore just proceed with this bark as normal. I promise you that the wet remainings of the vinegar are so less that it will NEVER make a difference.


2.) So here you are concerned that as you already threw both together some (also unwanted) stuff may have become dissolved inside your vinegar and now you have it contaminated with unwanted junk. But again: 30 seconds are never ever enough to dissolve anything out of it. Especially if it was dry bark. I really doubt that the vinegar really penetrated the bark at all. And even if so, then I'm sure that it dissolved nothing out of it. There is a good reason that most TEKs require you to cook your stuff at least 30 minutes in acetic environment, I would even say 2-5 hours.

So dont worry! Just evaporate your vinegar and do whatever you wanted to do with the bark as if nothing happened. It will be fine I promise ;)




PS: You say this TEK extracts *full spectrum* stuff. I know this is a wide distribution over the internet or Nexus. But actually I am really sure that what is called *full spectrum* is just DMT polluted with some non-active other alkaloids. To date there has not 1 single other psychoactive molecule been proven to be present in any worthy concentration in the product of any TEK that would justify that there is something like *full spectrum alkaloids*.

Ok full spectrum just means that one pulls more than 1 alkaloid out of it. But it looks like those alkaloids are just inactive components that dont do anything. Its more like DMT that is not recrystallized for purity. I would recommend going for the PURE stuff with Naphtha, but you can definetly try this TEK out and find out what you like best!

Good luck!
 
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From relatively extensive readings it appears to depend on who you ask weather or not those other alcaloids are psychoactive. The author of the tec feels that they are.
What appeals to me most about q21q21 is the all food safe materials. I’ll risk a little contamination from plant matter over contamination from petrochemicals or lye.
Thank again for the info!
Peace
 
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So at first if you feel about it may really contain a wider spectrum of more active alkaloids, just go for it! Even if there would be no other goodies and you have this full spectrum and feel nice about it when smoking, this would still be a nice thing =). So you should definetly try what you are doing and if it turns out to be really rewarding then there is no reason to change anything.

Also I already thought that this is the reason why you did not buy/use them. It's also a nice thing to really know that all you did was the usage of stuff that you could eat hehehe =).

Just to make the last points go away: If using Naphtha that evaporates not too high (you should use Naphtha with a boiling range of 60 - 80 °C) you will not have any remainings in your product. By freeze precipitation and then fanning it shortly you will remove everything. If the container still feels cold then some stuff is still evaporating. But after some minutes with a fan the coldness is over.

Also as you separate Naphtha from lye soup you will never ever get lye in your product. Because lye will never ever dissolve in Naphtha, therefore its not an issue. Also Lye cannot be smoked. Yes it is corrosive, but you will never evaporate anything when smoking your stuff. But this is still irrelevant as it will never make it in your final product.

But this is just to tell you besides if you are going the other route at any time in the remote future. Do what sounds the best for you and figure out how to do it. This is the most rewarding way to produce your new magic friends! =)
 
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I may in the future try that tec (it’s tec 2 on q21q21) but I’m more than happy with results from this tec so far. Even with my bumbling attempts that lead to lots of drips and spills I’ve managed to extract 3.089 g of jimjam, jungle spice, dirty spice or whatever it is from 200g mhrb and it does exactly what it’s supposed to!

No breakthrough for me yet, but I’m putting that down to operator error. I’ve come close, and my traveling buddy has done it! I just finished drying some Changa/enhanced leaf that will be sampled tomorrow night and I have high hopes! I used 2g unenhanced caapi vine, 3g lotus blossom, 3g mj, 2.4g jimjam which should be about a 25% mix. I like big rips so I think I’ll start with a 25% mix and go stronger next time if needed. I have thoroughly enjoyed my sub breakthrough attempts, and am looking forward to, but not trying to rush, a total breakthrough.....

See ya on the other side!
 
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