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~Phalaris = The Way Of The Future~

Migrated topic.
Aum_Shanti: :lol:

It's time for an update from me - the feral specimen suffered the most from the freeze. Interestingly, the single shoot that survived has lost most of its variegation. The store-bought variegated specimens are doing better than ever, and the AQ1 is doing modestly well. The swamp environment had a lot of nutrients washed away by the unprecedented amount of rain over the autumn/winter. These will be replaced by adding nettles cut from the surrounding area which soaked up all the runoff from the Phalaris containers.
 
Good morning beautiful people!

I am growing the Turkey red atm. Is there a proven good tek for this plant around?

Thanks!
 
Here is one tec which seem to work pretty well for all phalaris...
 

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Yep, IMHO still the best tek.

Although I ask myself, if one couldn't already do the zinc reduction in one of the first steps.
And for 5-MeO-DMT one would probably have to change a few details.
 
grollum said:
Here is one tec which seem to work pretty well for all phalaris...
Click to expand...

Many thanks grollum! Growing these ATM so interesting to try.

Hat of to the person that created the pdf! I love the 50mg report! Amazing, cant wait!:)
 
It's been said that due to some enzymes contained in the grass, drying it can reduce the DMT content.

I wonder if steaming the grass before drying could prevent that by destroying the enzymes?
 
Temperature can kill enzymes. I think different Enzymes need different temperatures. So Steaming might work, but dehydrating with a food dehydrator might not, since they are made for keeping enzymes alive for health reasons.
 
could this work to clean the soup?

https://imgur.com/8hdAN7a

same tech as Thin Layer Chromatography.
motor drives the small cogwheel witch slowly drives the large cogwheel.
a dripper slowly drips soup on the paper strip.

not sown is a second spool where the paper stip, once dried, is spooled up again.

when finished cut away the right part of the paper strip and one should have paper with just the wanted alkaloid.
would be really slow. the motor had to drive the spool so slow it had time to dry. a very long paper stip would be beneficial. no idea how to make the dripper drip just with the right speed.
don't really know IF this would work. would it?
 
Hey guys, since I'm giving up on importing "natural dye bark" cause of customs destroying my shipments I saw this thread and I want to give phalaris extract a try. Only phalaris growing in my country is Phalaris arundinacea, however there seem to be 2 types of it. And I'm not sure which is better, all this "big medicine " and other names confuse me.
I'm posting 2 links to the plants I have access to


And 1 more question(for now) how much grass are we talking to get few doses of breakthroughs? Like a good sized shopping bag amount of fresh grass ?
 
hanshotfirst15 said:
Only phalaris growing in my country is Phalaris arundinacea, however there seem to be 2 types of it. And I'm not sure which is better, all this "big medicine " and other names confuse me.
I'm posting 2 links to the plants I have access to

http://www.lystigardur.akureyri.is/default.aspx?modID=16&fl=2&pId=969
Click to expand...
One is 'picta', it's not good for alkaloids as it was selectively bred for ornamental value (variegation).
The other one is an unnamed variety, so most likely very low on DMT, but you never know, and some of those unnamed / wild strains contain other interesting alkaloids.

Arundinacea is highly variable genetically, if you're after a reliable high alkaloid profile your best bet is getting a named clone and growing your own. But if that's not an option, or if you're adventurous, get the unnamed one, plant it in your garden or in the wild, and see where it takes you, but tread carefully.
 
Please avoid introducing Phalaris in wild places where it is not already established, it's highly invasive and can easily crowd out native species. It's likely already growing near any stream, river, pond, or lake near you.

Wild grasses have a highly variable alkaloid profile expressing multiple phenotypes preferencing production of one or another alkaloid. Collecting from the wild will ensure a healthy mix of all of them. Not ideal for tryptamine specific seekers, great for full spectrum explorers.

As a source of tryptamines, you really want to seek out a cloned phenotype selected for tryptamine expression (named strains such as AQ1 or Big Medicine) or those with a consistent profile from seed (such as P. brachystachys or P. aquatica var. Australia). In order to ensure adequate tryptamine production within these varieties you will need to fertilize with high nitrogen fertilizer and harvest at roughly 7-14 day intervals.

If you truly wish to explore the wild grasses (or grow strains of unknown phenotype) there are a few things to take note of. Tryptamine production is highest in new growth and regrowth. Spring and summer, before the grasses flower, are when the grasses are producing tryptamines (also gramine). The literature reports a small tryptamine spike during flowering, I have not personally confirmed this. Post-flowering tryptamine production drops off entirely and the grasses shift to beta-carboline production.

My suggested protocol for wild grass would be to identify a patch as early as possible in the springtime via last years flower heads. Cut back and dispose of all last season's dead growth. Give it a week or two to put on sufficient new growth then come back and harvest that first spring growth. Come back every week or two weeks and harvest again (7 days will be higher in tryptamine content but less biomass, 14 days will be more biomass with a lower tryptamine content, or anytime within that window - maybe 10 days for a good balance). If possible freeze the harvested material while fresh, otherwise dry it for storage.

You'll likely want at least a kilogram dry (2 kilos fresh) before attempting an extraction. You will get a mixed alkaloid profile this is not a path to pure DMT. It would be wise to test any wild grass extract with a TLC kit or send it off for anlaysis prior to ingesting it.
 
I'm not an expert, but pretty sure I just read that growing Phalaris is best done by way of cuttings (clones). Apparently germination is difficult. For the record, I think these grasses will prove to be the choice for extractions, but synthesis will kick grass ass.
 
just read through most of this thread yesterday and today. Experimented with turkey red amny times in the past successfully and terrifyingly but very very usefully. Hoping to join in this continuing study here very soon.
 
Good morning Nexus.
I hope this is the right place to post this... LUrking in the forum for a while but only been posting for a few days, feel free to correct me!
SWIM has been playing with wild phalaris species found on his property in new Zealand and has attempted a few a/b teks with no real result. My latest attempt has been the closest to a result SWIM haS come but not consistent with other reports form similar teks. Tek used is as follows..
2kg wild phalaris harvested
Immediately frozen over night
Thawed then re frozen
Plant matter blended to fine powder
Soaked in pH 5 water and tataric acid at 50°c over night
10% solution volume naptha added, shaken then pulled to remove oils
Solution pH raised to 10
10% solution volume of naptha added and shaken

At this point SWIM encountered a very nasty thick emulsion that showed no signs of breaking down.
This had happened to SWIM a few times before when attempting this Tek so the jar of solution was left on a shelf in his kitchen and forgotten about for a few weeks. When checked on a couple weeks later the emulsion had reduced but was still very much present and thick! The lid was removed at this point and solution was vibrated for approximately an hour to break up emulsion, this reduced the layer to a few mls thick. Solution was left on the shelf for a Futher 5 weeks until the emulsion was completely gone.

Solvent was pulled 3 days ago and evapped over night... SWIM got impatient at this point and put the solvent in the freezer. In the morning solvent jar was checked and was found to have relitively large amounts of clear-whitish flecks floating in the solvent. SWIM does not have a reagent to test his product at this point, but is skeptical about the substance yeilded as his reading says that most positive findings are a yellowish goo? SWIMS product looks in no way yellow.

Unfortunately SWIM is unable to photograph his Tek results as the camera struggles to see the specs in the jar. Would be very grateful for any feedback or similar experiences you all may have.

Thanks to everyone in this forum for their massive amounts of time invested in the information contained on this site.. you are all awesome.. thanks for having me.
 
Its hard to say from the distance. I heard of crystals from phalaris with enough defating. Easiest would be if you send some samples in for analysis. Since it is growing on your property this is a good investment for the future. If you got positive results you have a livelong supply. you really should get a reagent. How much extract do you yield from the 2kg?
 
grollum said:
Its hard to say from the distance. I heard of crystals from phalaris with enough defating. Easiest would be if you send some samples in for analysis. Since it is growing on your property this is a good investment for the future. If you got positive results you have a livelong supply. you really should get a reagent. How much extract do you yield from the 2kg?
Click to expand...

Hi Grollum
Thanks for the reply,
I agree, sending in for analysis is a good investment, my patches alone would be at least an acre and that's not to mention the rest of it in the area. Reagents are on the shopping list for today so hopefully I'll be able to tell you a bit more this afternoon. The yeild was surprisingly low out of 2 kilo, but then I believe this is pretty consistent with phalaris, eyeballing my yeild I'd say I have approximately 90-100mg of clear very fine shard like substance.
 
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