• Members of the previous forum can retrieve their temporary password here, (login and check your PM).

Cybs Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek...Designed for newbies.

Migrated topic.
It wouldn't change it that significantly. Not significantly enough to cause it to change back into a soluble acidic form of dmt and if it does for some bizzare reason, one can just add a tiny bit of lye if you want to be extra cautious.
 
Last edited:

Greetings fellow wanderers of the mind.

I wanted to post up a detailed pictorial Tek for newcomers to extraction.

There seems to be a lot of confusion following Teks so I have devised an easy to follow guide.
(I have intentionally omitted all the why's and wherefore's of the chemical processes to avoid confusion.

These can be easily found at the Nexus for those who are interested.)
Especially here


Note that not all barks contain the same percentages of actives...End Results Will Vary!!​


This is for small (starter) amounts of powdered mimosa hostilis root bark (and ACRB) (50g)

(Note)
1.Although I have included an Acidic bath to begin with...this can be omitted and the extractor can go STB (Straight to base) if they wish. (Just start with the Salt and make sure you end up with 700ml of liquid).

2.You can also omit the heat baths if you want to do the Tek 'cold'. (yield maybe affected.)

(Please Note: Heat baths should 'WARM' the mix...NOT heat them excessively.)
approx 40-55*C bath water is optimal.

This Tek should produce around 2% Yield (depending on the bark)...that's 1g per 50g Bark...(30-40 hits) Enough for any beginner!

Anyway I have included it here in PDF form (download at the bottom of this post below the flowchart)

Enjoy....😁

Love Cyb

EDIT: New research by users indicate that Salt can be used (with good results) with Acacia Extractions;
especially A/B (Just add the salt before Basing)




ALSO a mini A/B on the collective pulled solvent will clean it very well. See HERE





Flowchart courtesy of InMotion
9Wb6FEI.jpg
Fucking shit can’t download the pdf whats the fucking point
MOD EDIT - suggested text: "Blinking flip, there seems to be a problem with the pdf download, how frustrating! Can somebody check if this is working properly, maybe it's just a problem at my end?"
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Fucking shit can’t download the pdf whats the fucking point
MOD EDIT - suggested text: "Blinking flip, there seems to be a problem with the pdf download, how frustrating! Can somebody check if this is working properly, maybe it's just a problem at my end?"
Works fine for me, are you using an Apple device or something?
 
Hi, I just have two quick questions.

Does this leave me with dmt freebase or is it Salt?

and ive read about water washing before freeze precipitation, what is that and do I need to do it here will it help/make it purer?

thanks so much.
 
I'm an ex-newbie now!
:cool:

I followed the directions plus added the freeze cycles from the Max Ion version (because "why not"?) Everything went mostly fine, but there's room for improvement in my techniques and lab ware. I spilled a little NPS and there seemed to be a good bit of un-crystalized spice left from the freeze precipitation, so I couldn't get an accurate yield measurement. My dried & weighed yield was approximately 2% for my 1st attempt and I think 2.2% on the 2nd try the following day.

I found some cool borosilicate 1-liter water bottles on clearance at Big Lots for $4.50 each. After the 1st 50g success I decided to try 100g. It was a tight fit, but worked out.

I need a better turkey baster. I struggled making do with 60 ml syringes & a plastic turkey baster I found rummaging in the basement. The NPS or lye began dissolving the rubber plunger on the syringe and the plastic tube on the turkey baster turned opaque. I ended up using the syringe tube with the bulb from the turkey baster.

I'd like to try using some dry ice next time to make the freezer a bit colder, so the spice precipitates more. Have any of you tried that?
 
Hello,

I've been getting lower yields than desired, maybe done about 4 now and most of which come in at around 500mg so I'm here to ask what I could improve on before diving back in.

- Following the tek as described below, done 1 with the acid step and 3 without and no change to yield
- For step 6: when it says "REPEAT THIS four times (shake/separate) to thoroughly mix them together. This should take around 45 mins." does that mean each separation should take 45min or the total 4 separations should take 45min?
- In the last 2 cases I've been using a magnetic stir plate, seems like it should be the ideal method but perhaps not?
- The lye, bark, and naphtha are quite old, would that matter?
- For temperature when "warm" in mentioned, exactly what temps are we talking about?
- For recovering crystals, what is the best method here? I find that it's difficult to drain the naphtha without throwing away what looks to be crystals and a coffee filter seems too fine for the naphtha. When I drain off the naphtha into glass dishes for crystallization my fluid looks fairly clear and yellow rather than cloudy in the pics of the tek if that helps.

- For anyone that's gotten higher than the 2% yield, what did you change?

Thanks,
 
Hello,

I've been getting lower yields than desired, maybe done about 4 now and most of which come in at around 500mg so I'm here to ask what I could improve on before diving back in.
Are you comparing against a previously established benchmark with the same material or are you judging your results against some hypothetical golden standard?
If the former, what was the yield and what has changed in your approach?
If the latter, know that bark is highly variable. You might just have lower performing bark than the max potential. And that's okay.
- For step 6: when it says "REPEAT THIS four times (shake/separate) to thoroughly mix them together. This should take around 45 mins." does that mean each separation should take 45min or the total 4 separations should take 45min?
it's talking about all 4 separations in a single pull.
More important than time is process. Mix (don't shake) throughly and let layers separate 3 or 4 times, then pull the naptha off. This is what it's saying should take 45 mins. If one separation is taking 45 mins you're shaking too hard

- In the last 2 cases I've been using a magnetic stir plate, seems like it should be the ideal method but perhaps not?
I saw no difference between using a stirrer and not.

- The lye, bark, and naphtha are quite old, would that matter?
Only the bark age would really factor in but I've seen people report using decade old bark with minimal impact. No real experience here myself.

- For temperature when "warm" in mentioned, exactly what temps are we talking about?
It's not really specific. 130 to 150 should be fine. But the idea is not to hold it at that temp but let the water cool before reheating. I think it's debatable how helpful it really is.
The most effective thing I've seen is leave everything room temp except warm the naptha in a 170degF water bath for two minutes before pulling.

- For recovering crystals, what is the best method here? I find that it's difficult to drain the naphtha without throwing away what looks to be crystals and a coffee filter seems too fine for the naphtha. When I drain off the naphtha into glass dishes for crystallization my fluid looks fairly clear and yellow rather than cloudy in the pics of the tek if that helps.
One important piece of info here is how much naptha are you using? 50ml x 5 is a bit much imo. If using that much, before you freeze precip, evap away 30% - 50% of the volume. For 50g bark, 25 to 30ml per pull is better and you shouldnt need to evap.
When you freeze it, prop the dish so it pools and xtalizes in one corner. Then, after waiting patiently and not touching the dish for a minimum(!) of 12 hrs, gently shift the dish to move the liquid to another corner, leaving the solids behind. Let it sit like that for a few minutes to clear off before actually pouring away that naptha. Then proceed with the dry and scrape.

- For anyone that's gotten higher than the 2% yield, what did you change?
This is mostly going to be about bark quality and secondly about refining your implementation of the technique.

Changing the tek prior to having a solid understanding of the process and general chemistry principles is more likely to have negative outcomes.

For now, focus on quality output and seemless execution.
Worry about % maxing later.

Or maybe never.
Yea, worry about % maxing never.
 
Back
Top Bottom